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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1167039 No.1167039 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>> No.1167063


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1167028 No.1167028 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Just bought a dayton and need to but half in arbor replacement wheels

>> No.1167029



>> No.1167038

Who makes the best Grinding wheels / wire wheels No opinion?

>> No.1167069

sweet dude.

>> No.1167075

norton seems to make them and they make decent sharpenning stones. unless you were looking for something specific and specialty, norton would be less likely to fly apart than a random HF disc

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1167000 No.1167000 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I got a 36" x 2" x 1/4" chunk of Starett O1 precision ground tool steel...

(It was a great bargain at $44 on amazon)

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1167009
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Close, but not exactly.

Hock sells this shoulder plane kit for $100. The blade (also O1 steel, only 3/16" thick compared to my 1/4") for $30. I thought I'd get 25.6x the amount of the same steel for the money and fabricate the blade myself, in /diy/ fashion of course..

>> No.1167022

You went through all this work without learning how to harden and temper steel first?

This is also super easy to find out yourself.

here lazy ass https://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material9.html

>> No.1167027

I already knew all this. I know some of the technical details, like quenching in warm oil, tempering at 400 for a minimum of two hours, etc. But I've never heat treated anything though.

>> No.1167034

Not guy you're responding to, but I presume you don't have an actual kiln for this, so just stick it in your home oven at 400F. The temp wont stay as nice and constant as in a kiln but its a reachable temp in a home oven. That or you buy a used kiln

>> No.1167085

you could use a small carbide insert as a cutter, if you can sharpen it.

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1166999 No.1166999 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]


>I'm new to electronics, where do I get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.

>What books are there?

Getting Started in Electronics Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics Charles Platt
How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic Michael Jay Greier

All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide: Kybett, Boysen
Practical Electronics for Inventors: Paul Scherz and Simon Monk

The Art of Electronics by Paul Horowitz

>What YouTube channels are there?

>What websites feature electronics projects or ideas?

>Where do I get components and lab equipment from?

>What circuit sim software do you use?
This mostly comes down to personal preference. These are the most common ones though:
NI Multisim
iCircuit for Macs

>What software should I use to layout boards?
Circuit Wizard

6 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1167047


>> No.1167060

So i got my hands on some 24 volt hid flood lights that i would like to use in a 12 volt system. Is it possible to use a step up converter for this or do i need to replace the ballasts?

>> No.1167071

extra details required
though its mostly that i'm not sure what ballast means in this context

>> No.1167074

well, UV =/= UV. A/B/C??? also you need luminol for that to happen. only use for a uv flashlight with LEDs might be inspecting gems and bank notes.

>> No.1167078

dat cancer machine

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1166948 No.1166948 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey guys,

I bought these dodge pillow blocks today for 10$. Since they're so cheap i was going to use them on a go kart im making. My issue is that my axle is 1" thick, but the inside diameter (Shown in red) is 1" 1/8. Anyone have any ideas to make it fit? I'm curious if anyone makes an insert for this, but i dont know how to look that up or where it would even be. Shown in blue are two screws that tighten down, but that will just give me a bumpy ride.

I'm playing with the idea of just shoving a bunch of 1/16 rods in there and welding it up.
Any ideas?

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1166956

get some 1/16" shim stock and wrap it around the shaft

>> No.1166960

If you arent having to hammer them on then you fucking up anon. They cheap enough get new bearings or find a shaft that fits.

Sucks horse cocks but if you anti seize the hell out of the shaft you will thank me latter.

Source: 2 rock wuaries and over 100 belts. Nobody knows wtf a grease gun is...

>> No.1166961

1 1/16 is tricky. You could get a 1 1/2" OD 1" ID spacer and turn it down on a lathe


>I'm playing with the idea of just shoving a bunch of 1/16 rods in there and welding it up.
I would definitely not do that

>> No.1166966

>$10 pillow block bearings
You're going to have a bad time.

>> No.1167087

Off craigslist, OEM they cost just under 200.

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1166928 No.1166928 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey /diy/, got a little pet project for you guys.

I work for a rather large municipality and a big part of my job is to take out the trash.
Sounds simple, right?
Put in a trash bag, next day, pull it and replace the bag.

Well, our cans come equipped with bolted on lids that only open partially.
This is to keep the seagulls out.
They eat the garbage and shit in the water, lowering the water quality and littering the beach.
Bags don't stay in, they sink right to the bottom.

The result is: double the manpower (2 people need to lift and flip a heavy can and dump into a bag) , double the money spent on bags (tax $$$) and back injuries/hernias.
I dump hundreds of these things a day on top of the stuff I already have to do.
My municipality wont replace the cans, we're talking 3000 plus cans that are compliant and they're paid to have because of the advertisements on them.

If I could find a way to secure the bags in the cans where they wont fall to the bottom and I can simply rip the bag out, we could save tons of money, manpower and injuries just on this one simple fix.
So what do you guys suggest?
(btw, if we rip them off, they're replaced and we get gouged for like $90 a lid)

>TL;DR How can I keep the trashbags from falling down in these trashcans?

16 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1167035

Ur a fuckin rerarded edglord beta orbiter obsessed with my ex and her fucking insane fantasy world
Threads reported. CPS informed. Cops are s arching for you and your crew. Hard. And one approaches me or tried to run game on me again and we gonna have real problems. Ur a fucking delusional stalker who knows nothing about other than what psycho ex girlfriends and roumour Mills from I'm 20 years ago. I'm not a fucking pedo. Never have been. Do us all a favor and fucking aanhero

>> No.1167080
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>Sounds simple, right?
youre right.

most of the bins in aus look like this. just enough space to put rubbish in but not enough space for birds to sit on it and pick rubbish out.

opens with a lock and replace.

>> No.1167081
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>> No.1167083

when you put the bag in make sure it reaches the bottom.

grab the lip of the bag and fold it over the can then twist, keep twisting till its tight and fold it under the lip. it wont move.

binder clips work too.

>> No.1167084
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1166888 No.1166888 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'm trying to rewire an autoclave I was given. The thing has a chinese 3 prong plug (this exact plug http://en.shsumiya.com/products_detail3/productId=37.html) and it's original cable is rated at 16A250V. The appliance draws 2kW at 250V and about 9.09A. I'm trying to rewire it so I can use my canadian dryer receptacle which accepts a 4 prong nema 14-30 plug. I ended up buying this cable https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0014KO11O but the conversion from 3 prong to 4 prong is confusing me since I have absolutely no knowledge about electrical wiring. The 4 prong cable has an extra live red wire and I have no idea what to do with it. Can I just wrap it in insulation and ignore it? Do I have to connect it to the same lug (not sure if that's the right term) as the first black live wire? From what I understand, as long as my appliance draws less power than my source and the cable/wire is rated at or above the required specs I should be ok. It's just the wiring that's confusing me. I don't know what info is pertinent so I'll start with a schematic of the autoclave.

>> No.1166889
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OP here.

Here is a picture of the wire colouring for the 3 prong cable. Green/yellow=ground, blue=neutral, brown=live.

>> No.1166890
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And here is a picture of the wire colouring for the nema 14-30 cable.

I tried to simply find an adapter but I had no luck after searching for over a week both online and around my city. If someone has a better solution or can help me out with the wiring it would be much appreciated.

>> No.1166895

Red to brown, black to blue, green to green, white all wrapped up in electrical tape and safely deadended.

I think your confusion here is that you are assuming you need the neutral (white) wire, and according to the ultra-reliable and easily understood chinese wiring diagram you probably don't.

>> No.1166897

thanks for the help. yep I thought the conversion was:

green/yellow (ground) to green (ground)
blue (neutral) to white (neutral)
brown (live) to black (live)

and I assumed that the red live was either unneeded or was too be combined with the black live.

I'm curious though, what would happen if I did wire red and black together to the same lug. is the result excess heat resulting in a fire hazard? And what is there no need for a neutral wire in the new configuration?

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1166773 No.1166773 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I am trying to design a circuit that will allow an appliance to stay connected to wall power in the US only as long as a LASER shines onto a photosensitive element on the circuit, using a solid-state relay.
The control circuit itself is wall-powered through a voltage regulator.

The plan is to eventually get the control circuit printed onto a PCB and the whole thing (with the relay and regulator) in a project box with the LASER diode, switches, photosensitive-resistor, and connections to wall cable and appliance attached.
I dunno much about circuit design so I came to /diy for feedback about effectiveness and safety of my design.
Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks, /diy/

>> No.1166775

about the image, I can't take screenshots, for reason

>> No.1166779

7812 isn't going to take 120vac, well, not for long anyway!
the relay kind of shorts out the src, did you mean that?
d1 is doing nothing for an optical relay?

check this for simplicity, swap ldr with pot for inverse action

>> No.1166788
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Sorry if I may not have gotten all of that, I'm not too familiar with this, so I'll try by best to understand...

I'll trade 7812 for a different regulator in that case.

Not totally certain what you're referring to be 'src' being shorted by the relay (sorry, I don't know circuits that well). I was just thinking the relay would operate the triac based on whether there was a voltage drop between the relay's anode and cathode inputs.

I'll remove d1... Not sure why I included it now...

As far as swapping the ldr for a pot, I'm assuming you mean a potentiometer? Wouldn't my circuit need a light-dependent resistor to do what it's supposed to?

In any case, thanks for the help!

>> No.1166795

I just noticed I'm powering my laser diode from the +12V input to my control circuit, which I'm wondering might just shunt almost all the current through there and leave nothing to power said circuit...

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1166713 No.1166713 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

(Apologies for the cross-post, but /p/ is utterly useless.)

I want to store some books on microfilm but I don't know much about film-based photography.

Would a cheap film camera mounted on a tripod work? I'll probably use "Ilford Pan F Plus 50 Black-and-White" film which has a speed of 50 ISO.

>> No.1166730

1) You know your original -> estimate smallest detail
2) You know your microfilm size, so you can calculate its target resolution (usually in line pair per millimeter)
3) check your film is compatible with this resolution (pan f may indeed be a good starting point, but double check dev charts)
4) check you cheap camera is compatible with this resolution (pro tip : it won't)

>> No.1166732

You will want to mount the camera such that it points downwards at a 45 degree angle. Mount the book in a 90-degree platform that is angled 45 degrees. Place the camera at one 45 degree location (down and sideways 45 degrees) to shoot the even pages. Move the camera to the other 45 degree offset location to shoot the odd pages. A cheap camera is fine. You will want low-ISO slide film for this. If you want to do multiple pages per slide, you will need light-blocking filter with a movable rectangular clear section (you know, a piece of paper with a cutout) to prevent excess light bleeding between page images on the film. You will need a wide-angle architectural offset lens (or offset lens adapter and regular wide-angle lens) to keep the page size on the film small and to correct for parrallelogram distortion. Do all of the slide images exposing one portion of each slide, then adjust the lens and camera position to do the next portion of each slide, and so on. If you are doing four pages per slide, the first quadrant would have page 1 on slide 1, page 5 on slide 2, page 9 on slide 3, etc.

I've never done this before myself, but I remember that Google had a similar 90-degree book frame and angled camera setup for their book digitization project, and this is how I think I would approach the problem if I wanted to do it for film. You might find that the same process but with a digital camera is much more forgiving. For example, you would not need an architectural offset lens because parallelogram distortion can be corrected in silico with digital photos.

>> No.1166737

...Thinking about the (four pages per slide) problem again, I think I would mount the book platform on a jig so that it can be moved about on a 45-degree plane, and have four light-blocking filters, one for each quadrant. Keeping the camera fixed in one location, move the stand on the jig such that the page is in the right quadrant, then adjust the "shift" aspect of the tilt-shift lens such that the page looks like a rectangle. Shoot all of the pages for that quadrant, adjusting focus as-needed as the elevation of the pages changes. Then, switch to the next filter, go to the first page for that quadrant, adjust the shift aspect of the lens, and so on, ad absurdum.

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1166711 No.1166711 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Long story short, I want to build a model jet engine. Surfing the wonders of youtube I found alot of really cool stuff, but most didnt self sustain which disappointed me and started to question my skills in making one considering the amount of work they put onto it with cnc machining.
I have alot of knowledge about everything but combustion chambers, I dont seem to find a good source on this, I mean where does the combustion exactly happen why are there two tubes overlapong the other, where does cold air enter and from where does the hot air exit. The placment of holes diameter of differrent holes and their number, why? Please explain, and give me a good source for this.
Also I am thinking of making 8 different closed combustion chambers around the shaft with gaps between them to keep the bearing safe and and the shaft cold and to stick oil lubrication system, will this work and how do I make it to work

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1166727


Calm your tits faggot...this is a slow board, and most of us work...check back tomorrow...

>> No.1166738
File: 1.02 MB, 2560x1920, Kurt Schreckling's model turbine spool with wooden compressor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here's the classic homebuilt model turbine design:
Obviously if you have access to CNC, you can probably make something more elegant. But it still goes to show what you can get away with and still have a functional jet (wooden compressor wheel? No problem).

>I mean where does the combustion exactly happen why are there two tubes overlapong the other
I think the combustor in your picture is a basic form of annular combustor. Combustion is confined to a thin ring between the inner and outer tubes, and "cool" compressed air flows through both walls into this annulus to keep the flame confined and away from the walls.
>The placment of holes diameter of differrent holes and their number, why? Please explain, and give me a good source for this.
Dunno, most combustors I've seen have more holes and they're mostly the same size. Then again, Schreckling's burner has very few holes on the inner surface, and none on the outer surface. I'm sure you can get away with a lot more running low pressure ratios, especially if you don't particularly care how long the engine lasts.

>> No.1166759

>He didn't even wait an hour on one of the slowest boards on 4chan

Entitled much sweetheart?

>> No.1166761

john tom has some plans. there is a kid on youtube who made one out of literal scrap using only some simple hand tools.

shot sparks and made a horrendous grinding noise but it worked.


>> No.1166782


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1166674 No.1166674 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]




18 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1166986

lol wtf, the starrett factory is still up and running, it's a massive facility too.

see here: >>1166679

Those guys have to be liars, shills if you will. Or maybe they received counterfeit items.

If the needles aren't moving it's better than .001" but it doesn't show you how much.

>> No.1166988

Are you just NOW hearing about it?
They have shipped a lot of their tools overseas.
Check out their official website, they list the chinese factory and say that it makes "precision tools" AKA their measuring tools.

Nobody said its all chinese made, but more and more is being made there every year.

>> No.1166989

that is deeply disappointing

>> No.1167014

GODDAMNIT I literally just ordered a new indicator yesterday. I knew I should've waited.
Anyway, is Asimeto any good? My co-workers claim they're between shit like Fowler and better stuff like Mitutoyo/Starrett, but most of my coworkers are alcoholics so who knows.

>> No.1167024

I would think that area would be Brown and Sharpe, but I could be wrong.

Interapid are nice too.

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1166641 No.1166641 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do i get a get a super smooth finish with my wall painting? in painting onto already painted walls which are brick and plaster. Painted one room and it has that sort of orange peel look (thibnk thats the term) like you can see in this picture. I think most people think its desirable and every house see4ms to have it but i want ultra smooth almost like the look of an unpainted door (next pic)

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1167064

Are you hungry?

>> No.1167065

Painter here, 15 years.

That look is what every single painted wall in history looks like when you put your head so close to it you can see molecules.

I am the same as every other professional painter and use a roller.

If you want to look like that door, spray a lacquer on the wall to seal it, then spray another. Then use a paint gun like they use on a car, and spray multiple layers of paint thinly.

Then spray more lacquer.

Once you have acheived your level of anal perfection, marvel in how few of your visitors give a shit about the difference between a painted wall and you own perfection.

If you find someone who cares, kill them as they will threaten your perfection by using electrolysis to stick metallic paint to their wall in
an effort to out smooth you.

>> No.1167067

>professional painter

what paint color is best?

>> No.1167072

idk, the wall is smooth, even the undercoat is fairly smooth

is it really that bad? that pic was from 1 foot away and looks like what the coat under it did. I didnt think i used that much paint either, in fact i thought i used too little.

I know, i know and your not the only one to say that. However why would you ever settle for less? I love your humor by the way, outsmooth is my new favorite

>> No.1167076

>is it really that bad?

Yes it is bad and you should feel bad about it

Seriously it is bad but don't feel bad about it, you are not a pro obviously and obviously whatever you think you did right, you were wrong

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1166640 No.1166640 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hello /diy/. I've been dropping by here for a few months now for tips and shit, and have wondered how to make this knife great again. Any advice on restoring it's former glory? It's dull as fuck, but that's the smallest problem.

>> No.1166644

..am I missing something? What exactly is wrong with it?

>> No.1166681

>"make knife great again"
>frost cutlery tier chinese knife


>> No.1166683

well then what is the biggest problem? learn to make a fucking thread

>> No.1166734


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1166589 No.1166589 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Just got a new smart phone. Any ideas on D.I.Y. phone cases?

>> No.1166605

try the waterproof case with two condoms

>> No.1166870

Buy otterbox phone case.

Cut it

Buy power pack.

Gut it.

Run plug to phone and silicone or hot glue in so is stable but removeable.

Have small air gap and holes or tiny air gap amd fan that comes on when it kicks power to phone or is charging.

Enjoy 6 pound phone that stays charged more than 1 fucking hour

>> No.1166894
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>> No.1166896

not worth it

cheap case off ebay

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1166561 No.1166561 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

My 28oz estwing is destroying the joints in my arm.
looking to pick up something lighter, eyeing off a 16oz stiletto Ti or a Vaughan 23oz CF. Any other suggestions? what do you swing and what do you think of it?
I live in ausfalia so availability is an issue for a lot of brands/models

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1166572

Just get a 20oz estwing claw from bunnings for $50 I use it all day everyday with no worries.

The titanium hammers are probably great but they're so expensive and I haven't found anywhere that sells them what do you do for work?

>> No.1166607

I have one, prefer something with a longer handle

I'm a framer

>> No.1166609
File: 38 KB, 300x922, 10304 CF1HC Comp lrg.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Get the Vaughan. Quality of a Vaughan can't be beat, and the wood handle is an absolute joy. Good stuff those.

>> No.1166627
File: 4 KB, 300x300, shopping.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

28 is a ton of weight and the metal handle is going to transfer a lot of energy back into your arm.

I run a 16oz dewalt. Have only had to replace the handle on one. I'm going for the sledge anytime the weight is even an issue. I wish the black grip paint would last longer and wouldn't mind a nail set like the vaughan, but that waffle head is no good for me. The smooth face lets me double this for trim work.

>> No.1166636

16oz stanley fibreglass handle. Owned 9 years and not broken yet.

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1166549 No.1166549 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I've got an old angle sander. The manual says it takes 7 or 9 inch discs and it spins at 6,000 RPM. A friend has what looks to be the exact same tool except he says it's a grinder. It has a different shroud around the disk but is basically the same from there on back. Same manufacturer. I checked the arbors, the same. Motor ratings, the same. His data plate is fucked so I can't read what it spins at. My buddy says I shouldn't use grinding discs on my machine because it spins too fast. Most discs I see say they can handle 6k RPM. Some go over 20k. Is he full of shit? I think they basically made the same tool and just had different shrouds for the different roles.

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1166632

Shit happens if there's a chink it a zip wheel too. But it is usually due to a stupid operator pinching the wheel.

>> No.1166639

Most 7" blades have a rating a little over 6000rpm because that the norm of a 7" grinder

A 9" blade at 6000 rpm is asking for trouble

>> No.1166655
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OP here. I found a picture of the model I have online. It is a Black and Decker Heavy Duty Angle Sander model 4049 Type 1. One thing I was wrong about was the RPM. It is 5,000, not 6,000.

>> No.1166661

This, that extra 2" in diameter is a lot of extra wheel

>> No.1166663

>that extra 2" in diameter is a lot
thats what she said

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1166533 No.1166533 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>i want to test a power supply that i found on the street
>i try to plug it to the wall
>it wont start
>i invite a friend to come in and help me to get it working
>he grabs some wires and suddenly i see a light coming from the PSU
>he starts electrocuting
>i start laughing
>he screams in pain
>i get his hands off the PSU
>i start electrocuting
>as i scream in pain with my friend my father walks in and kicks the psu
>the PSU starts burning
>my fucking house almost gets set on fire
>we both survive

Never pick up a PSU found in the street and try to test it, NEVER

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1166670


Ahhh, a classical Nietzsche.

>> No.1166702


>> No.1166703
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>> No.1166722

Why would he get electrocuted from holding cables? They should've been insulated

>> No.1166763

cables wheren't so insulated

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1166531 No.1166531 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Lets have a thread about tools you've made yourself. Simple or complicated, doesn't matter.

This is a clutch removal tool for a Homelite chainsaw I made from an old socket.

>> No.1166531,1 [INTERNAL] 

Excellent hack there! I'm a little too lazy to take some pictures right now but I have some purpose built single service tools that I have made as needed over the years. Just found the forum and will head back...

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1166529 No.1166529 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What's the best way to clean rotting food that's been sealed off in a broken garbage disposal for 3 months?

The smell was so bad when I took off the rubber cap that I vomited and nearly passed out.

I tried dumping bleach down it but it didnt work

pls help

19 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1166754

Garbage disposals are stupid as fuck and exist to cause problems. Remove, bags, shitcan and replace with normal plumbing, then take out your organic trash or make a compost heap etc.

>> No.1166786

When shit is bad I use my interspiro divator mk2. Add 2x3l 300bar tanks and it's a lightweight set to do shit in toxic spots.

The small tank is also good to have on your back when using air tools in odd places. Just add a regulator 1st stage with a standard air coupler attatched. The tanks can have just 1,8m^3 of air (- compressibility) but for nailers and shit its quite nice.

>> No.1166882

>clean rotting food that's been sealed off in a broken garbage disposal

>clean a broken garbage disposal

If it's broken, disconnect it and toss it in the bin.

>> No.1167055


Tried that too and it didn't work. I can put into words how bad the smell is.

>> No.1167070

>smells bad

put bleach

>didnt work





well then you are fucked, you need magic, go to /x/ for plumbing demons

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1166481 No.1166481 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Got this at a discount, it's in fine shape. Kiln dried redwood. 23 8' 2x4x, 8 10' 4x4s and only 4 8' 2x6s. What should I do with it?

And no, I don't need a deck.

9 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1166843

>Build a cat tree.
Don't cover up that pretty wood with carpet.
Make furniture or shelves, OP.

>going to make planter boxes, but I'd rather have something wider and or thinner for that.
Mill it down with a table saw?

>> No.1166844

Make a bike frame then make some wooden wheels. Use rope as your chain. Brakes can be standard metal and plastic.

>> No.1166846
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Dubs confirms.
Ask catto.
--make catto a catto house--

>> No.1166944

How many rings per inch or foot?

>> No.1166947


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