Quantcast
[ 3 / biz / cgl / ck / diy / fa / g / ic / jp / lit / sci / tg / vr ] [ index / top / reports / report a bug ] [ 4plebs / archived.moe / rbt ]

2017/01/28: An issue regarding the front page of /jp/ has been fixed. Also, thanks to all who contacted us about sponsorship.

/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself


View post   

[ Toggle deleted replies ]
File: 1.53 MB, 2880x2160, pendant1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632536 No.1632536 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey /diy/

I'm curious on how to make this small bear claw into a necklace.

I got some leather cord that I want to use with it. I will post pics of another necklace I made with it. This one was easier though since it already had a bail (or bale, however you spell it).

I would rather not dig a hole through the claw, I am not sure how fragile they are inside. I'd rather encase the top somehow, if that is even possible.

Any tips or suggestions? I don't browse this board often at all so I am sorry if there is a dedicated necklace thread or something. I already looked in google on different ways, but almost all of them showed a metal encasing which I would rather not do. I'm trying to keep it as natural as possible.

Thanks for your help guys.

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1632538
File: 1.49 MB, 2880x2160, necklace.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632538

>>1632537

>> No.1632550

>>1632536
Just drill a hole, it will be fine.

>> No.1632552

>>1632550
Yeah I kept browsing the internet after I posted this and it seems like it's what everyone is suggesting.

I'll keep the thread up for ideas, but I guess I might be stuck with that option. Not like it looks bad, anyways.

>> No.1632553

>>1632552
You could polyurethane the inside of the hole if deterioration is a concern.

>> No.1632555

>>1632553
Thanks for that suggestion, I probably will end up doing that. Do you think I should coat the whole claw in it or just the inside?

I was thinking the whole claw.



File: 59 KB, 900x900, unnamed.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632523 No.1632523 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Should I go to the technical school and take a few courses, or can I become a good welder by just watching youtube vids?

I watched a few of pic related instruction vids, but it looks like he made them when he was 15 and they kind of suck. Are there any channels you suggest that can teach me to weld?

I am 35 and don't want to make a career out of it, but I want to be able to fabricate things and and know how to properly weld. I also want to learn to weld aluminum and build a boat one day.

>> No.1632525

>>1632523
No, just watch that moron's videos and do the opposite of what he says.

>> No.1632526

>>1632523
If pic related taught us anything, you can start a welding channel before actually knowing how to weld. Lots of free tools if you tickle Milwaukee’s balls just right.

>> No.1632556
File: 14 KB, 640x348, 50790823_436842700186827_7833737906559647744_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632556

>>1632523
His machining makes me cringe but as a fellow Nazi I now kinda like the guy



File: 1.36 MB, 1509x1707, 2357180F-A4BC-4137-9E63-BEF413713461.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632479 No.1632479 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I have a house built in the early 30’s that has plaster & lath walls. I’m considering demoing every room on the first floor except for the kitchen down to the studs. I’m gonna do the demo myself with help of a few friends & maybe hiring a couple of guys for the weekend. I have almost no experience doing anything like this. Any tips from diy’ers?

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1632505

>>1632498
I have hammers & a sledgehammer. I was gonna but some crowbars, shovels, & something to scrape the plaster off the lath.

>> No.1632522

>>1632505
>scrape the plaster off the lath
No need, smack it with a sledge a few times, plaster will fall, once you have a bit of lath exposed just stick a crow bar into it and start prying. No need to scrape the lath clean unless you are going to leave it up for new plaster.

>> No.1632534

>>1632479
>advice
Ya, don't do it, just put sheetrock on top. The lath structure and the robustness it brings is all but forgotten in modern home construction. Besides sound and temperature benefits, dont spend tons of energy to make something worse.

>> No.1632535

lmao have fun, that shit is not fun to demo

>> No.1632548

>>1632534
This. I’d bust the plaster off and sheet rock over it



File: 82 KB, 600x444, fuck.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632454 No.1632454 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'm trying to turn part of my lawn into a garden, but I don't have access to a roto tiller, shit is a pain in the fucking dick. What do I do? Use a pickaxe or what? A garden hoe doesn't do fuck all.

7 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1632517

>>1632484
Fire.

>> No.1632518

>>1632484
Also why do you have to be such a faggot with your quarter acre. If I was worried about a random stump next to a fence I'd kys. Put psilocybin plugs into it. They will rot stump and provide goodness.

>> No.1632549

>>1632484
Farm jack and chain

>> No.1632551
File: 15 KB, 898x651, faggot stump.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632551

Op here, I just went ham around it with an axe and kept digging till I got under it, then I pryed it back and forth and kept cutting the roots. Sorry for gay thread. It popped right out when I cut all the roots around it.

Thanks for the help fags.

>> No.1632560

>>1632549
My farm jack faces the wrong way.

>all my rage trying to get this shit to move

I think I'm going to cut it low and drop some of that stump remover shit


Its next to a high voltage transformer and I'm afraid its wrapped around conduits, even if I get a good purchase on it



File: 54 KB, 1500x702, 61TE0O+LBnL._SL1500_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632426 No.1632426 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I got an electric smoker. There is no heat setting it's either on or off. I'd like to be able to control the temp not precise but within 50 degrees. Is there a way I can do that with pic related?

>> No.1632430

>>1632426

a temp sensor like LM35, a 339 comparator, a few resistors to set the temperature and some hysteresis, and a solid state relay. It's how I control a hotplate so my sardines are nice and tasty but not burned.

>> No.1632452
File: 443 KB, 2000x1500, IMG_20190618_204215346-2000x1500.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632452

>>1632430
That's kind of what I was thinking. I really don't want to fuck with it that much. I only paid $25 so maybe I'll just set the alarm on to remind me to unplug it every 30 minutes. To let it cool down and it could also remind me to grab a beer. Hey how do you cook your sardines? I'll usual eat them on celery.

>> No.1632453
File: 27 KB, 640x353, oventhermostat.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632453

>>1632426
Just get a mechanical oven thermostat.



File: 8 KB, 250x241, images (5).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632419 No.1632419 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>be apprentice
>Get sent to hard labour repetitive jobs with no technical skill
>Employers wonder why I'm not picking up technical skills

Fuck this

14 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1632493

>>1632419
They’re probably doing it to you because you’re a whiney bitch and don’t deserve the good jobs.

>> No.1632495

>>1632487
I dont know what union you're talking about but the only differences in wage scale for my trade in my district/local vary based on whether or not the project budget is more than $64k as well as the job being federal/state/local gvt.

Not all of us can get handed full-ride scholarships and big-brain our ways into paid internships with KPMG making $500k/hr for shitposting on 4chan in between doing actual work for 2h a day

Once I get my ticket in 3-4 years from now I'm probably going to just try and go back to college for something that a dumbass low-IQ non-chad non-badass slave caste loser like myself can do or i'll just truck around the country working electrical in between stints of camping and hiking.

>tl;dr: not all of us can be super lucky big-brain Chads like you who make $500k/hr for getting gud grades in college and existing

>> No.1632504

>>1632487
this

>> No.1632507

>>1632504
see
>>1632495

>> No.1632509

>>1632487
Glow nuts are a great idea. No NCV tester needed to tell when a circuit is hot. Why don’t more people use these?



File: 254 KB, 1280x720, maxresdefault.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632413 No.1632413 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Everytime I pass a Suzuki Carry I can't get past the potential these little guys have.

I've found them at 5k used for ~80k miles and it seems like it would make a great campervan.

Mind you, if genetics made you tall the Van option with a removed passenger seat is the only way you'd fit. The driving for taller folks would still be a challenge But for those of us under 6' it has 6'4" x 4.4" cargo area. It seems like an easy electric conversion if the 40mpg engine dies.

>> No.1632445

>>1632413
Not street legal in my area.

>> No.1632447

>>1632413

I wonder how much imitation crab meat you could carry in that

>> No.1632449

>>1632447
probably one-third ton



File: 3.39 MB, 3024x3024, 20190618_195936.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632409 No.1632409 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Can someone explain a bit about the process of finding a problem in a circuit. Tell about how you do it, what method you use (probing, search visual signs, etc).
>Pic: I have a old casio cmd 40 that is completly functional, except for the IR transmissor (although the LED light up when voltage was applied). **Tips about where to start looking** I have fixed similar eletronics but with more obvious problems, I also have never dealt with something as delicate as a clock before so I want to make sure I dont fuck up.

>> No.1632410
File: 3.04 MB, 3024x3024, 20190618_195944.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632410

Other side just in case it helps with something

>> No.1632415

>>1632409
if its just the led part that doesn't work then start there. follow the traces from each leg of the led and draw a circuit diagram. seems from the front one side has a resistor and on the back a transistor, so likely the transistor is driven by the cpu in some way. see if you can get a scope on the line from the cpu to transistor gate and see if that is doing anything. then work your way along, check for voltage out of the transistor, if you say the led works the only other real thing it can be is that other resistor, check with a multimeter.

>> No.1632502
File: 227 KB, 1280x960, 16825747_10155198748590676_7156365315233229360_o.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632502

>>1632409
I help out some people who throw street parties with a big old boombox collection. 90% of the time they're broken because someone dropped it and cracked the PCB. Sometimes it's obvious and other times I need to check every pair of points with a multimeter until I find a broken trace. You can also do this to identify components that are no longer properly soldered. The other common problem is electrolytic capacitors and the larger diodes and transistors used in power supplies failing.

>> No.1632513

>>1632502
is this what hell looks like



File: 72 KB, 800x400, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632346 No.1632346 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Well?



File: 2.93 MB, 4032x3024, 20190618_123502.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632342 No.1632342 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What is the beat way to attach these stair tread caps to the yread beneath? The risers are already attached.

I would like to do it without visible nails or if I nail it can I just run the nails in the back near the riser? Since it is a cap and attaches to the existing tread, 18 gauge finishing nails should be sufficient right?

6 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1632436

>>1632424
Thats going to ruin your stairs man. Just use the double sided tape. I cant believe all of these destructive suggestions. Dont you care about the resell value of your property? They look like really nice stairs.

>> No.1632444
File: 3.86 MB, 4032x3024, 20190527_182654.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632444

>>1632436
The brown things are the tread caps. I'm attaching them to the original treads beneath. If it was just a fabric or rubber thing that went over the treads then yes but I am attaching the brown tread caps over the old treads. I have them placed over the original treads in the OP but they are not fastened down.

Here is what they looked like when I cut the nose off the original treads and installed the risers.

>> No.1632448
File: 3.71 MB, 4032x3024, 20190302_182517.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632448

>>1632444
Before risers. Just wondering any any others have done this before and have any tips on how to attach the tread caps. Sounds like construction adhesive and a row of finish nails. If I wasn't a turbo autist I would have glued down a tread, nailed it with a row of nails in the rear top of the tread and then covered the nails with the next riser.

>> No.1632473

>>1632444
>>1632448
Oh yeah, fuck it then. Fuck those things up, it doesnt even matter.

>> No.1632554

>>1632448
If it’s gonna be inspected be careful. For my local code the rises can’t be more than 1/2 inch difference from the tallest rise to shortest one. And can’t exceed a height of 7 3/4 inch Could be different else where.

Construction adhesive would help solidify things and help prevent any squeaks especially if you had to level out the treads

18 gauge brad would prolly do the job but if you’re shooting into something dense like maple you could have some potential roll overs.



File: 17 KB, 300x225, s-l300.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632332 No.1632332 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hello /diy/. I just recently took up restoring and maintaining die cast cars, both new and old. However, I'm having trouble finding a site that sells spare parts for all brands including Maisto, Bburago, etc. Can anyone assist or direct me to a site that has spare parts?

>> No.1632336

>>1632332
Can't remember the names off the top of my head, but Marty's Matchbox Makeovers on YouTube names some suppliers like what I'm thinking you're looking for.



File: 1.84 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_20171020_232857.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632319 No.1632319 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So it looks like I'll be moving into a larger house and I'll have room enough to finally use my desk I picked up years ago off of CL and has been sitting in storage (thus a fairly old picture)
So my plan is to, remove any rust, clean, repaint, replace locking hardware and the feet hardware along with possibly replacing the wooden top and adding a keyboard drawer.
I have a rough idea how I plan on doing it but in particular I'm having trouble finding a good way to remove the rust and finding feet, which was essentially a bolt with a wide flat top. Any ideas on those along with a possible replacement top would be great.

>> No.1632331

>>1632319
From the looks of the office desk, in the photo, the top is an MDF board with the cheap formica. You can get formica or the other knockoffs of various colors, textures and gloss. Just be careful with the adhesive. The feet can be easily found on websites such as McMaster-Carr or Ebay, depending on the size of the bolt and threading.

You can also buy solid wood top for that desk (also McMaster-Carr), if your budget allows for it. You can remove the rust with a scotch brite pad and the stainless steel cleaner that they still at the market.

>> No.1632344

>>1632331
>MDF board with the cheap formica.
Nah, the tops on these desks are particle board, some have actual wood veneer, some are just heavy paper like laminate with wood grain printed on. The wear at the front edge suggests wood but the bottom right corner suggests paper. Hard to say from a photo.

>> No.1632371

>>1632344
It's the heavy paper, one of the edges started to peel away so I figured it was worth going all out and replacing



File: 8 KB, 275x183, download.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632281 No.1632281 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

https://youtu.be/I8H89hXJxL0



File: 536 KB, 1045x253, roof.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632276 No.1632276 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I live in an old ranch style house in California. The roof has a double pitch; a conventional slope near the peak that flattens out to a shallow pitch over the porches (which cover about 60% of the perimeter of the house, front and back). I've just been told that I might need to get my roof replaced. The previous roof was install before I bought the place and it seems they didn't do a good job because it leaks in one of the valleys. Picture related. I've had the place looked at by 3 different local outfits and they all say they valleys need to be redone at the very least. There are two valleys. We get a lot of sun, some high winds and some rain here. We get a light dusting of snow once a decade or so.

So, what kind of ass raping am I in for? They say quotes are in the mail. The total roofing area is about 1,400 square feet of standard 3 tab asphalt shingle and rolled roofing. How much could I save if I rented a container and stripped the roof myself? Would that even be worth my time?



File: 108 KB, 640x905, img0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632274 No.1632274 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I finished assembling a greenhouse and this part (actually two of them in total) were left over. They were packaged together with door handles but they were not part of the door handle/lock system. The big round end is a strong magnet. What are these for? I would use them as a door stopper (when the door is open) but I have no idea what they were actually intended for. Any ideas?

>> No.1632275
File: 92 KB, 640x905, img1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632275

>>1632274
Another pic of the magnet.

>> No.1632286

>>1632274
Makes sense if it's a swing door, bolt it to the wall or roof and the magnet end holds the door.
Not much use for a slide door unless its auto close.
There is also often some kind of trickery in a greenhouse to do with windows opening when it's too hot for example, but a magnet alone? Not much use I doubt you would come near its curie point just in a greenhouse!

>> No.1632292

>>1632286
>Makes sense if it's a swing door
Yeah, there are swing doors, one on each end of the greenhouse.



File: 20 KB, 555x565, Sin título.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632257 No.1632257 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hello /diy/.

I want to settle a communication using RF. Thing is that the transmitters will have to be movable and the receiver must be static. It will have to work + 100 meters. The transmitter will have to be like a market RFID sticker.

The receiver can have current input, wifi internet, sim paid access.
What electronics do you recommend.

>> No.1632258

>>1632257
The information from the receiver should be send to the server.

>> No.1632262

>>1632258
Something like this.

11:00 AM | T2
11:01 AM | T2
11:02 AM | T2
11:03 AM | T3
11:08 AM | T1
11:12 AM | T5
11:00 AM | T2
11:01 AM | T2
11:02 AM | T2
11:03 AM | T3
11:08 AM | T1
11:12 AM | T5
11:00 AM | T2
11:01 AM | T2
11:02 AM | T2
11:03 AM | T3
11:08 AM | T1
11:12 AM | T5

>> No.1632264

>>1632262
Or more like this
11:00 AM | T2 | R1
11:01 AM | T2 | R1
11:02 AM | T2 | R1
11:03 AM | T3 | R1
11:08 AM | T1 | R1
11:12 AM | T5 | R1
11:00 AM | T2 | R1
11:01 AM | T2 | R1
11:02 AM | T2 | R1
11:03 AM | T3 | R1
11:08 AM | T1 | R1
11:12 AM | T5 | R1
11:00 AM | T2 | R1
11:01 AM | T2 | R1
11:02 AM | T2 | R1
11:03 AM | T3 | R1
11:08 AM | T1 | R1
11:12 AM | T5 | R1



File: 1.53 MB, 4032x3024, cs2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632187 No.1632187 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey guys,

I purchased a chandelier, and I tried setting it up, but only 3 of the 8 bulbs seems to be working. The bulbs are fine, I checked them with another lamp. On the pic you can see how I tried connecting the wires together. One thing I don't understand: as you can see on the picture I will post right after this one, there is a black cable coming out of lower part of the lamp, but at the upper part it looks like the previous ownder didn't need to connect that. What could be the problem? Thanks!

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1632218
File: 1.47 MB, 4032x3024, cs5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632218

>>1632216
thanks, I think it could be pre-WW2, and it's in Hungary. I'm not sure about the black wire tho, since it's connected to some stuff inside, as this pic shows...

>> No.1632236

>>1632187
> 3 of 8 are working
so the fault might no be the black wire. Follow the wires of the 3 working bulbs and check how they are wired compared to the 5 that aren't.

Can you post a full picture of the lower part

>> No.1632237

>>1632218
basically the brown at the top should be line, blue should be neutral

assume each lamp (bulb) needs a line and a neutral.

two wires from each lamp should be in the bottom part (one blue one black?) (one line one neutral)

so you should have 9 lines connected together and 9 neutral connected together.

if the brown wire at the top goes to only 3 wires and the black wire at the top goes to 5 wires and the blue wire goes to 8 wires then you need to connect the black wire to line to light up the 5 lamps.

if you want 5 instead of 3 swap brown and black at the top. if you want all 8 connect them together.

if its the blue at the top that only goes to 3 wires then connect black to blue or swap as required.

>> No.1632303

>>1632236
>>1632237
I rearranged the wires and now it's working, thanks. it's a bit embarassing that it was so easy to fix but I'm a bit afraid of repairing stuff connected to electricity...

>> No.1632378

>>1632303
good attitude to have best ask if you aren't sure. good to hear you got it working.



File: 804 KB, 250x270, CAF52B90-F6F9-417D-96A0-2120D43FC696.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632179 No.1632179 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How would I go about learning how to make a custom PC? I know it’s probably better to buy one pre-built, but I’m genuinely interested in learning.

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1632191

Thanks, I’ll try that out.

>> No.1632211

>>1632179
Go to pc part picker, slap something together, use brain to double check, make sure it is cheaper than a prebuild, then do it. It's time consuming because you have to be double careful with expensive parts.

>> No.1632249

>>1632179
I think jayztwocents on youtube just put out a tutorial.

I literally built mine last week. HDD for gaymes and SSD for OS my dude.

>> No.1632269

I've been building my own gaming PCs for 20 years. The hardest part is the research. You spend hours trying to track down parts that fit what you need. You have to be careful because you can screw yourself on price/performance. New shit is coming out all the time and if you are not trying to build a top of the line rig it can be difficult to gauge what is worth it.

Case in point, fucking video cards. New ones come out all the time. Is it worth it to buy a new mid-range card or an older top end card that is on discount? Research.

Also, spend your money on parts that last longer. The core of a gaming PC is the motherboard, CPU, RAM, and video card. These generally only last 3-5 before they are too dated to play AAA games at high settings (depending on how high end you bought). Things like your case, power supply, sound card (if it is not built onto the mobo), and hard drive can be reused for later builds. Same deal with monitors, keyboards, mice, etc. Get a really fucking nice case. Get a really nice power supply. Hard drives don't age well but they can last. My WD Black from 11 years ago is still in service as a data storage drive even though it has long since been replaced by an SSD for OS and gaming duty.

If you are using headphones stick with the onboard sound or maybe get an external DAC. If you want actual speakers, not gaming speakers or some Beats/Bose garbage, get an internal card with good 5.1/7.1 output and a real receiver/speakers. Also, if you can hold a speaker in one hand it is a shitty speaker. This isn't a weight thing, it is a size thing. 'Satellite' speakers are crap. Get full range speakers at least 'bookshelf 'size if that is your thing. They last decades.

Finally, it is perfectly okay to build your rig in stages. Build a solid tower and maybe keep using your shitty Dell/HP/Acer keyboard/mouse until you can get a nice set. You can easily spend $200 on keyboards/mice but you generally only have to do it once. Same deal with monitors, etc.

>> No.1632368

>>1632179
Pick a processor your price range with good reviews. Check what type 'socket' it is. Then find a motherboard with the compatible socket for the CPU. From there you pick other components that fit the sockets on the motherboard. It's mega easy, I've built probably 10 computers since my first in 2001, when I was a tween. Big boy Legos



File: 151 KB, 1080x1350, InstaSave.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632162 No.1632162 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'd like to build one of these mask / headset things. I can identify some of the pieces and tools used to connect things (ex. The action camera and swivel thing on top seems to use those GoPro screws) but other aspects I'm clueless about.

It seems like a lot of the parts might have been 3D printed, but I have no idea where I could produce or buy some of the parts.

Any advice? Pic related.

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1632185

>>1632162
Just build your own out of things from the junk draw and spay paint it black just like that person did.

>> No.1632227

>>1632170
Apparently they're functional or partially functional.

>>1632182
Ok cool, that should be pretty doable then. You think it's like plastic Gundam model kits? Or something else?

>> No.1632243
File: 25 KB, 480x360, hqdefault[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632243

>>1632227
Yeah, shit like that. It is not uncommon. Even movie special effects people have been using model kits and toys to make props for decades. This prop from the original Star Wars film famously used the tire rims from a kids semi-truck.

Also, you will never be able to unsee it now that I mentioned it. You are welcome.

>> No.1632357

the main helmet which holds everything is a full face snorkel mask.

>> No.1632377

it looks like you could just glue a bunch of used parts to a mask, maybe old air conditioner and car parts, or parts from some old as electronics, tv's maybe, microwave. go to the dump and start smashing.



File: 2.57 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_20190618_061807.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632146 No.1632146 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So far I gather the units scramble and decode video. The company is long gone with nothing about the purpose of the video scrambling. I was hoping that they'd be useful for something and if not are they worth any thing? Thanks for any help.

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1632152

>>1632150

TYPE 6530 VIDEO SCRAMBLER
FEATURES

* Low Cost
* Portable 12V System
* Plug and Go” - No user controls
* Small Robust Unit
* 2 Code Sets as standard
* Scramble Ident Marker on Decoded Video


The Type 6530 Video Scrambler System from Peca Electronics provides a cost effective solution to secure Video Transmission.

Using the “cut and rotate” method, Video information is scrambled within each Television line according to a Code Set unique to each pair of units. Groups of units can be provided with the same code set if required.

The portable “Plug and Go” system is ideal for rapid deployment situations, where signals are at risk over open Microwave Transmission systems.

SPECIFICATION
Encoder: Decoder:

Input Signal: 1V composite PAL (or NTSC to order) Input Signal: 1V composite Scrambled Video at
at 75 ohms via BNC connector 75 ohms via BNC connector

Output Signal: 1V composite Scrambled Video Output Signal: 1V composite PAL (or NTSC to order)
at 75 ohms via BNC at 75 ohms dependant on original signal

Video
Scrambling
System: Cut and Rotate

Supply: 12V DC at 250mA (8V to 24V) Supply: 12V DC at 250mA (8V to 24V)

Dimensions: 30 x 108 x 180 mm. Dimensions: 30 x 108 x 180 mm.

Weight: 420 gm. Weight: 420 gm.

>> No.1632310

It's a relatively niche piece of equipment by the look of it and relatively obsolete.

you can't really broadcast a TV signal wireless without a station, and if you used a wired connection there wouldn't be many situations where your physical location wasn't secure.

you might use one to stop someone bugging your CCTV cameras or to make sure employees in a police station or embassy don't steal your CCTV footage.
Maybe to protect internal video links in embassies or negotiating rooms.

You could use it to protect video being physically couriered, but since anyone could see what you were carrying was scrambled...
It would only make sense if it was something you couldn't put in text, like an illegal recording of someone under investigation, a ransom video, illegal pornography.

If you tried to recover previously erased data you could probably decode it with the same device, god knows what you would find.

>> No.1632318

>>1632151
That is an industry standard case for electronics equipment, 90s vintage, commonly used by small scale manufactures for transport and storage. Most of that spy stuff in movies is just off the shelf electronics shit, you are losing touch with reality anon.

>> No.1632334
File: 21 KB, 300x300, CT20-F2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632334

>>1632310
combine it with pic related to run the porn channel in a hotel

>> No.1632477
File: 2.58 MB, 4032x3024, D788CFD4-32F4-4659-8052-1C3473024DF1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1632477

>>1632334
Dammit, I knew i shoulda grabbed one or two of these



View post