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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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File: 146 KB, 843x1300, 114246555-a-beautiful-bright-art-deco-stained-glass-decorative-window-panel-in-an-an-abandoned-hotel-art-deco-.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755663 No.1755663 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Is watercolor a good paint type for painting a glass door or should I use a special type? I already have paste for the outline. Pic related is what I want to draw with the help of projector

>> No.1755685

Water color will not stick to glass.

>> No.1755690

You need acrylic paint, glue, and sealant. Real stained glass is made at the manufacturing stage though.

>> No.1755709

Get something like this, its specifically made to imitate real stained glass


>> No.1755751

I'm guessing I have to mix the paint with the glue before applying. The sealant is supposed to be for the lines?

File: 178 KB, 1500x1125, a0191-000004.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755616 No.1755616 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do I learn more about locks, dismantling locks and picking locks?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1755650

I'm too dumb to pick locks, do bump keys work good for brainlets?

>> No.1755652
File: 24 KB, 573x303, oh shoot.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Why are you trying to pick a lock if you're dumb and don't want to learn how to not be dumb?

>> No.1755655

I lost my keys officer

>> No.1755711

Watch one of the YouTubers mentioned above and try to emulate their moves. Getting a good twisting leverage with one hand and shaking the second one in the hole like a retard works 99% of time.

>> No.1755744

Agreed. LPL is the entrance to the rabbit hole.

File: 2.65 MB, 3264x1836, bumperfront.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755606 No.1755606 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

The retardedly retarded Finnish vehicle inspection didn't let my Mazda pass without a spare part that would have cost as much as the car itself, so I decided it was time to give it up and buy a new car more optimized for the Finnish conditions. At the moment the Volkswagen Passat is hideously ugly, but I'll make new fins to it as soon as the weather warms up.

Back on topic, I saved the Mazda's bumper because it looks much better than Passat's original, and I'd like to connect it to the front of the new car. It's a little flatter than the original so it wouldn't fit together with the inside of the wheel wells, so I think the best idea would be to carve away some plastic from the inside of the bumper to mount it over the original bumper.

What's the best way to connect the bumpers firmly together, and what other tips do you have for this?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1755695
File: 29 KB, 500x500, 607020[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Thanks. I've never done anything with fiberglass before and apparently it's longevity in Finnish weather varies wildly, but I think a thick layer of Dinitrol protective mass should help that too. I still haven't ever dealt with fiberglass at all, so how should I get started learning it?

Inspection authorities. The part was Axle Beam (akselipalkki in Finnish). Just a big metal piece that I could easily have fixed if law didn't dictate that it must be a single piece, and could easily have made a new one from scratch if law didn't dictate that it must be type-approved. It would have cost 400 euros, so along with needing to fix three rust holes and a broken rear spring, it was just easier to buy a new car altogether and start over with a zinc-dipped one that would last longer.

>> No.1755696
File: 28 KB, 480x360, hqdefault[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I've never head of removing a bumper for repairs, but apparently it's a thing with this car. I already looked into removing the front grille and thought that needing to remove the hood latch for it was a ridiculously bad design. The video I watched on topic confirmed that it is indeed very likely to break from this, so is there any reason not to just dremel it's hole wide enough to pull the mask off with the hood latch still in place?

As for removing the bumper, if I just mounted the new bumper in front of the old one it should still have all the original old connectors holding it in place. Wiring wouldn't be a problem since my old car doesn't have signal lights on the bumper, and I already intend to replace the stock foglights with the bigger ones I salvaged from my old Mazda.

I also didn't think of removing the bumper before bolting the new one onto it, but it might make things easier. Not sure though, because just removing the bumper from my old car was a pain and that I didn't even need to put back on again.

>> No.1755714

Removing the plastic hood latch you pictured is also a part of getting into "service position", and yes they do break at the end that connects to the latch. A new one made from zip ties works fine.

Unlile your old car, The bumper plastic on these are one piece, with the grill glued into it. If you take the whole thing off you may be able to saw off the bottom and stitch your mazda lower half to the top half of the new one, but any type of bondo or glue would most likely fail due to how much it needs to bend when removing or installing it. To install you loosly allign the top, then bend each side to shove it under the fender before screwing it down.

Try taking it off, then re-evaluate your plans.
There are screws at the top, bottom, inside the wheel wells (the main one into the fender is here), and one on each side that is accessible by removing the headlights (or only the marker lights if it is pre-2001)

>> No.1755743
File: 248 KB, 480x360, cut.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Here's a better explanation of how I'd go about fixing the latch issue.

Taking the bumper off will have to wait for warmer weather though. Not because of any technical issue, just because days are still short and weather uncomfortable to work on anything extensive at this time.

>> No.1755757

Ya, I got what you meant about cutting, nothing wrong with doing that, just warning after a few times removing that latch the fork part at the back will snap if you are not careful. A flexible (zip tie) replacement has the advantage of not having to remove it everytime you take the bumper off for repairs (which will be often)

Also, don't use fram oil filters with this car, the bypass pressure is too high, so it will not filter the oil
Also, mixing regular antifreeze with the coolant this car uses will turn to gel and ruin everything.
Also, keep a good battery, they get weird with an old battery
passatworld.com is a good resource (but not many people left on the site anymore), someone there told me everything that could be done to these has already been done, I proved them wrong.

Also, happy to see one of these being modded again, you'll love it fin anon.

File: 487 KB, 720x1280, Screenshot_20200122-054142_Gallery.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755602 No.1755602 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey guys, I consulted google but it didn't help cause I ain't got a float ball. Bear with me cause I'm clueless with this stuff, but the back of my toilet wont refill. There seems to be two problems. 1. The red thing at the bottom of the tank isnt stopping water unless it is carefully placed in the absolute correct position. 2. The black thing's water supply to the tank is very slow. Also I turned off the water to the tank but the black thing kept dripping. What do?

>> No.1755604

And I should note, I just turned off the water to the toilet and it still wont stop running. Also the water from the black thing, the float I believe, isnt going through the fill tube into the little overflow pipe. The fill tube isnt producing a drop of water. The only water going into the tank comes from a small drip off the arm of the float near the fill tube, like the fill tube is leaking.

>> No.1755643

Replace both, you already know what you have to do. Should cost $20 for the pair.

You have water everywhere else, right? In other words, it’s not a frozen pipe, correct?

>> No.1755733

Ya, I got water everywhere else, and aight cool. Got a rec for a kit or something to replace it all? I'm murrican if it makes difference.
Thanks for the info btw man

>> No.1755738

6 dollars us

File: 282 KB, 1440x1080, all-metal-modular-custom-mini-arcade_1_e5fd4ba799f65177a533558838930ecb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755591 No.1755591 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Is this some kind of processed aluminum? Is it possible to replicate it in home environment?

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1755618

>And no, that is not a home finish.
Eh? They sell powder coating kits at Horrible Freight. Obtain oven (toaster will do if the item fits), spray, bake as per directions.

>> No.1755620

>They sell powder coating kits at Horrible Freight.
These are remarkably not completely horrible.

>> No.1755629

OP here. Thanks for replies. Gonna try finding one of these powder coating kits in my area. If I won't be able to make anything looking close to op pic related, I'll have to think about other options of making pretty looking metal plates. Anodization is prolly the easiest one, but I don't think shiny metal will look good in my project. Got any recommendations for making expensive/high-quality looking metal for different kinds of cases, boxes and other stuff with simple shapes?

>> No.1755637

>Got any recommendations for making expensive/high-quality looking metal for different kinds of cases, boxes and other stuff with simple shapes?
You can buy existing enclosures of this type from both industrial supply and electronic supply. I'm sure there are Amazon sellers that sell something similar with the holes already in the top plate. If you wanted to add the holes yourself you will need a knockout punch or hole saw for each size.

>> No.1755704

Alright OP.

That powder coat is "hammer finish".
If you can't find hammer, "wrinkle" has same look just not quite as defined.
Use an electric oven (gas will blow off the powder).
Normally the metal is electrostatically charged and the powder adheres evenly.
You can use flour sifters (like for cooking) to do it without that electric setup.
You need an oven capable of 400°.
Read packaging for duration (usually 20-30 minutes).
Find a YouTube video for further clarification.

File: 77 KB, 1000x1000, wiss-snips-m123r-64_1000.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755572 No.1755572 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I understand why you use left and right aviation snips, but what straight and bulldog snips?

>> No.1755623

Straight is "neutral" and easier to use when going in both directions over a long distance.

>> No.1755632

what are bulldogs?

>> No.1755657

straight is for when you are cutting into the middle of a piece, not an edge, and not cutting deeper than the depth of the blade

>> No.1755687

Bulldog snips are for cutting things like slocks. They are short nosed snips

File: 2.93 MB, 4032x3024, 9BD63CF4-4F77-4F80-99E9-6D3A588EDBDC.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755535 No.1755535 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Just fixed my gas boiler without calling a repairman AMA

>> No.1755540

This looks like carbon monoxide in picture form

>> No.1755545

That is not a question

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1755435 No.1755435 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Pretty much the only reason anyone works or gets into a trade is to get a girlfriend/provide for a woman right?
Why bother if they'll never love you?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1755441

This isn't >>>/trade/ or >>>/job/ It is >>>/diy/

>> No.1755442


>> No.1755443

Maybe it's Sanskrit?

>> No.1755446

well since you want attention I will give you some :
this is why girls don't like YOU specifically,

this is why you are never invited any where ,

or why people avoid you, you are just useless,
so you are right girls will never love or want YOU .

happy now ? you got what you wanted.

>> No.1755450



That sure is an interesting curve on the dresser behind her stomach.
t. >>>/lgbt/

File: 28 KB, 900x900, unnamed.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755426 No.1755426 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>society is about to collapse
>internet will be shut down forever
>you have 100tb of storage
what do you download and archive?

>> No.1755428

Pornhub. Now fuck off with your bullshit.

>> No.1755430


File: 1.54 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_6732.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755423 No.1755423 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Didn't see anything like a welding general so guess I'm killing a thread.
Pic related is inside my car door, it's one of the window regulator mounts. It's stamped sheet metal spot welded to the inner half of the door, which is then welded to the outer half. As such the only access I have is through this 1"x2" hole.
I've already talked to several shops and none of them are willing to touch the repair. Most have told me I need a new door, which I completely understand but would like to avoid. It's kind of a shame to scrap the whole thing because of one shitty broken bit, and I'd have to get a paint match done.
I can afford to get the door replaced but I'd like to try fixing it myself first. Only problem is I have no experience welding, so I'd like some advice there. The plan would be to pick out an appropriate welder for this job, then buy a bunch of sheet metal and practice until I'm confident and then some.
My constraints are I only have access to 120V, and I'd like to keep the cost of the welder (minus consumables, gloves, etc.) to the 'several hundreds' vs. 'many hundreds.' I briefly looked at stick welders (due to the size of the hole) but now I'm looking at small-nozzle MIGs.

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1755694

>As such the only access I have is through this 1"x2" hole.
Can you take the interior panels off?
Do any of them cover this hole?
Can the hole be cut larger and then patched up afterwards in a way that doesn't significantly compromise the door?
>I can afford to get the door replaced
That will cost less than your proposed alternative.

>> No.1755701

Well if you want a good mig welder for cheap get an Everlast. Get one that will allow you to use a shielding gas.

You must gain access to the weld joint to clean it with a grinder or your weld will 95 percentage probably fail.

Good luck. Practice makes perfect. You could probably find a school near you where you could learn and do it.

>> No.1755705

Cutting the hole a bit larger like
Suggested may actually work, you could probably get away with not patching it if there is plenty of meat around the hole.

Removing the paint on the visible side is okay, the paint on the opposite side of the metal will burn off a little, but that isn't a huge deal if you can't see it.

Since you are planning on welding more in the future it wouldn't be the worst idea to give it a shot. I recommend getting a mig welder. They can use shielding gas or flux core wire. That way in the future is you want to move to gas for a cleaner weld you can. Is your want longevity avoid no-name machines like what harbor fraught has.

I imagine you've already watched welding videos of you are interested in it, but see if anyone has done a similar repair/welded on door panels.

>> No.1755726

Cut the hole bigger then zip-tie and epoxy that bitch back together. If it was only held on with a spot weld then fixing it with something other than a weld won't be that big of a deal and won't screw up the paint.

>> No.1755752

Your car is held together with spot welds and glue.
>t. Automotive factory maintenance

File: 166 KB, 831x623, roofer.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755370 No.1755370 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Why am I seeing so many roofs being done now in literal freezing temperatures. Are these people retarded?

14 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1755734

how does the tar on the back of shingles melt together to join them if the temperature is below what the manufacturer says the roof should be done at?

>> No.1755736

you like 5 year fiberglass ones?

>> No.1755758
File: 32 KB, 300x225, OSB ROOF QUALITY.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>build roof from shit material
>needs to be changed soon since shit material
>change it with shit materials
>need to change it again soon since shit material
>everyone looses money
>everyone is employed
>need to employ more people
>employ illegal mexicans
>illegal mexicans remove whitey from job
>whitey ends up on drugs
>employ people to stop whitey using drugs


>> No.1755760
File: 13 KB, 275x198, osb roof rot.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

>be american
>build roof from shit material
>roof rots since shit material
>need to employ more people to fix roofs constantly
>need to throw money to fix problems that shouldnt even exist
>ponzi skeme makes everyone employed

>> No.1755761

>implying the scorching heat of the summer wont correct any issues caused by winter installations.

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1755350 No.1755350 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I am repairing a bass amp and can't figure out this pot. The others are linear 100k pots, but one labeled "mifld freq" is a c100k inverse log pot. The others all have 3 pins but this one has 7. It is exactly as pictured.

1 through 4 and connected by a trace on the board. 5 and 6 are wired separately and 7 is unused.

I would like to replace the pot with a regular 100k linear pot. I don't mind if the adjustment curve changes, but is this possible? Please help. Thanks everyone.

>> No.1755360

Going to a linear pot wont be okay. A little imperceptible wiggle of your finger will be the difference between too soft and too loud.

>> No.1755385

What a bullshit part.

The only thing I can think of would be to use a digital potentiometer chip, and control it accordingly to get the inverse log curve. If you hooked it up to a digital encoder, at least it would probably last forever with that horrible scratchy noise on that oem carbon deposition pot.

>> No.1755389

>control it accordingly
Dude log digital pots exist. There's a good reason for their existence. Quit whining and use the correct part, this is not some extinct tech.

>> No.1755397
File: 81 KB, 952x500, unobpotium.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

> log pots exist
This one ain't that common. I guess you have a big bin of them though.

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1755309 No.1755309 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I've always liked cryptography, riddles and things like that, but I can never find any place on the internet that has all the programs and websites that show this kind of thing. Could you tell me any website that has all this?

File: 312 KB, 800x1343, Hoist Diagram.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755305 No.1755305 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I am using a block and tackle to hoist a loveseat to an upstairs window. It has to pass through the window in its upright position. There is not enough clearance between the house and the hoist eye-bolt to hoist it in that position, so I plan to hoist it in the vertical position as shown and then pull it through the window horizontally. How should I rig the ropes to allow me to rotate it into the horizontal position at the window?

>> No.1755318
File: 36 KB, 600x600, couch rigging.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

so the orange line is your pull line and the black line is a rope you use to tie the pull line to the couch. once you get it up to the correct height untie the black line and lower it to horizontal..

>> No.1755319

oh yeah the orange line is a "choker hitch" youtube if you dont understand. its very simply. rope through eye.

>> No.1755596



File: 26 KB, 520x390, fuse box.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755279 No.1755279 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Why do I need an additional fuse box behind the circuit breakers for 220V equipment (Air Conditioners, Hot Water Heaters, etc). Seems redundant.

9 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1755612

Are you kidding? 50 amps can flow through your body and blow a fuse without you feeling it, but by the time it trips a breaker you'd be dead.

>> No.1755631

why not just have a safety switch.

>> No.1755636

Youre an actual dumb cunt

>> No.1755638

Kill yourself faggot

>> No.1755646

>Why do I need an additional fuse box behind the circuit breakers for 220V equipment (Air Conditioners, Hot Water Heaters, etc).
Because the equipment is up in a very inconvenient location, and the disconnect and fuse box allow the power to be shut off at the unit as it is being serviced without having to dick around with determining which breaker is feeding it.
You would understand why they're convenient if you have done any HVAC work yourself. Breaker boxes are almost never labeled accurately or conveniently. And they're usually a long way away from where you need to work.

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1755260 No.1755260 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Well, I am remodeling and the bedroom doors have never sat right in this 1972 townhome.

I have taken off the shitty doors and I see the frames are slanted as you can see as well. Must I replace the frames as well as the doors?

>> No.1755285

Much easier to buy a pre-hung door.

>> No.1755367

Shim the jambs.

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1755239 No.1755239 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

which diy project if i mastered would give me the maximum probability of getting laid?

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1755250

Sexdoll crafting

>> No.1755254

currency counterfeiting

>> No.1755270

Making clothes/shoes/jewelry so you could make a girl clothes that look good that no other girl could buy. It will make her feel special, and girls love to make each other envious.
Couldn't hurt to be able to build shelves and stuff for her things as well. Maybe a little wooden chest for her jewelry or makeup.

>> No.1755273

just learn to play guitar

>> No.1755280

DIY on making you a chad or an asshole

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1755229 No.1755229 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

how do i remove gorilla glue from my hand?
i have tried hot water, liquid laundry detergent, salt and soap, and my hand is still sticky.

>> No.1755233

Try acetone. If that doesn't do it, break out the flap-disc.

>> No.1755234

have you tried cum?

>> No.1755237

wtf? my finger prints are all gone!

>> No.1755255 [DELETED] 

Last time I got gorilla glue on my fingers I stuck them in your mom's asshole and when I pulled them back out there wasn't a trace of glue on them anymore... Might give that a try Anon.

>> No.1755292

It's the perfect caper.

File: 523 KB, 1102x720, wallmountedworkbench.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755196 No.1755196 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'm planning on building a wall-mounted workbench to make the most of my garage, what's the best way to mount this into a brick wall?

>> No.1755206

Bolt it to the wall with screws that go through the whole wall
But it's never going to be as sturdy as a wokbench with legs. Why are legs a problem? You have plenty of space under the table

>> No.1755210

I want it to be completely flush with the wall and I don't want legs in the front as I need to easily move back and forth across it, so I want a large amount of the load bared by the wall

>> No.1755215


I build one and wall bared weight a lot by use achors.

>> No.1755252
File: 53 KB, 605x485, wb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Build a normal one.
You waste more space with the wall construction.
Store your stuff under it, build some drawers as well.
I never had problems with the legs or are you planing to sit in front of it?
Pic related could be nice. You can remove the toolbox while working.

>> No.1755326


One way would be to attach a horizontal piece like you have in your pic to the brick wall with a combination of both industrial adhesive and (the important part) anchors into the brick if you can't go all the way through as guy above recommended. Cinder blocks or solid brick? Then build up kinda like pic related for every day use. Then, take some time to make yourself some vertical legs that can be put in when you need to really beat on some shit, or put something heavy there, and removed when you aren't putting it to strenuous use. So, hammer drill, anchors, bolts, some some stuff like liquid nails only better, etc.

File: 71 KB, 555x650, Ridgid-Gen5X-Impact-Wrench-08-555x650.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
1755157 No.1755157 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'm looking for a good Mid-torque 1/2 drive impact gun to use at work(heavy equipment mechanic) it won't be used daily, just for quick jobs when I dont want to use air thus it doesn't have to be top shelf. I was considering a Ridgid Octane but don't know much about their products other than they share a parent company with Milwaukee. Any help is appreciated.

7 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1755564

No recommendation on the impact but if you don't already own a torque multiplier like an X-4, you want one. They break loose hardware that laughs at impacts.

>> No.1755584
File: 668 KB, 1847x775, noice.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Yeah I've owned this thing for 2 years its a beast. Recently I bought a 1/2in square to drill chuck adapter and that has been a game changer as well.

>> No.1755649

I think the newest Ridgid is a little more powerful than this, kind of the same range. I say he should get the Milwaukee because he will want the high torque next.

Best buy for the money with battery included, but their tool lineup sucks and that brand is sort of dying.

>> No.1755693
File: 621 KB, 1440x3120, Screenshot_20200122-070428.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

True. If your already vested in the ridgid battery setup than I'd say go for it. HomeDepot has a deal for the impact and battery for $149. Which is a good ass deal. If your looking for a good 1/2 impact.

I just stuck with Milwaukee cause I own a few things from there line up and have m18 batteries. Though it is expensive the tool has never let me down to ever consider regretting the purchase. It's unbelievably smooth and the torque on it is controlled so well that it doesn't leave my wrist aching.

Plus red and black are my favorite colors :)

>> No.1755707

I need to do a battery comparison on that thing. It was rated at 450ft-lbs of torque before the Octane batteries were released, and then it was jacked up to 620ft-lbs with an Octane pack. I’m guessing it’s like Ryobi strength with a 2.0 pack.

And the other option for buying, I believe they still have the free tool deal for $160 or $170 if you buy the Octane battery pack with a couple of batteries and a charger. If the 3.0 Octane packs really put out more power than the older 4.0, it’s worth spending the extra $20 to get 2x 3.0’s instead of 1x 4.0Ah pack.

I got mine last year for like $180 with a 3.0 and a 6.0 Octane pack plus the larger charger. I’m not sure if the bigger charger is any faster or better, but I think it’s dual chemistry and will also charge the old NiCd packs, which doesn’t matter to me anyway.

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