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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 88 KB, 710x780, 9K0080167US.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896281 No.2896281 [Reply] [Original]

Whats a good bday gift to give a 65 year old locksmith ?

He's been helping me out a bunch and I know he is a bit of a handy man. Think it's worthwhile giving him more tools at this age? Was think of giving him a knipex tool (not sure which is more versatile, pick related or the one with teeth).

What do you think is good for someone in that profession or a general handyman



File: 2.68 MB, 4624x3472, PXL_20250210_021909332.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896231 No.2896231 [Reply] [Original]

6 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2896243

>>2896242
Do you know how to solder? Or you need enough wire left in the plug end to crimp somehow. You might be able to rip some of that strain relief off the busted plug for a little more wire but it’s going to be extra fragile.

Find a neighborhood with trash night tonight and look for literally anything with a plug, cut the plug plus 6” of wire off the garbage picked toaster and it will be easier than trying to repair the one you broke right at the plug.

>> No.2896249

>>2896231
>Any way I can fix this shit?
find a man to fix it for you.

>> No.2896250

>>2896231
>>2896232
>>2896237
anon... you're to stupid to work on this. this is something you should have known how to do when you were 12.

>> No.2896258

Every man should have a box of "replacement cords" you have cut off shit before throwing it away.

>> No.2896279

>>2896258
That's how I got a refrigerator cord on my oscillating fan.



File: 1.14 MB, 1201x699, car_aux_power.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896222 No.2896222 [Reply] [Original]

Are there any products already made in mind to run power from the car battery into the dashboard for a usb hub or hub with wires/ports for different voltages to power aux stuff like usb/wire gps for anti-theft tracking, etc?

Most products out there go into the odb port or only have wiring for 1 device from the battery to the device, but I want to have the option to plug in something into a usb port in addition to a wired connection, etc. Do any products like this already exist that allow you to DIY your own car appliances? Nothing 110v, just stuff like usb/car gps device, etc.

>> No.2896246

>>2896222
>Are there any products already made in mind to run power from the car battery into the dashboard for a usb hub or hub with wires/ports for different voltages to power aux stuff like usb/wire gps for anti-theft tracking, etc?

you want to try that again, this time while not high on crack.

>> No.2896247
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2896247

>>2896222



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2896207 No.2896207 [Reply] [Original]

Inspiration thread
My favorite parts of diy and out are when you can tell an anon actually fucks by the words they use, like the carnivore thread and chicken talk.

Are you off-grid?
Debt free?
Growing your own food?
Re claiming shit?
Van life? I dunno

Is that MFer living in a metal shed in the SW still alive? That was savage as hell
Im quietly making it. Took apart a building, making like a 500 sq foot house in the appalachians out of it, all legal, not grid tied, dont think I will.
AMA if you want; hope others chime in.
Post anything not associated with landlords, banks and tied to the bottom line of global corporations. No shame, no judgement, lets have a psychopath thread. Ill try and not be a jerk, post interesting stuff

>> No.2896230

>>2896207
>Are you off-grid?
no
>Debt free?
yes
>Growing your own food?
no
>Re claiming shit?
sure
>Is that MFer living in a metal shed in the SW still alive?
are you talking about Fester/wayne? I think he got kicked out of his property for not living in a building that is up to code. he rambles on youtube.
>That was savage as hell
no it was pathetic.

>> No.2896241

I have several acres in the woods and the means to self sustain and defend it but am not currently off grid.

>> No.2896259

>>2896207
>Are you off-grid?
No, but I do have solar, and need to get some generator switches set up so I can run off generators if need be. Have two welder generators that will do 50 amps of 240v if I remember right, and a 200 amp PTO generator.
>Debt free?
Yes
>Growing your own food?
Some of it, but not all.
>Re claiming shit?
All the time
>Van life? I dunno
Nah, farm life.



File: 71 KB, 1043x957, 1737894338807303.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896151 No.2896151 [Reply] [Original]

From what could i make one out of? Nail,broken drill bit,something else?
I want to use it very rarely but would be great to have one to deburr holes drilled into metal jar lids for example.
Couldn't find a good technical drawing on the replacable blades so i'm not even sure what angle they are grinded off and how should it look like.

14 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2896236
File: 183 KB, 828x862, 035C3715-9100-459E-B68C-11BC27FF3A7A.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896236

>>2896213
I shoulda known by that “Best” sticker. The real brand would probably have different types that are “best” for a certain application. I think this Noga is the original and a bunch of Chinesium sellers ripped it off. It looked familiae.

>> No.2896245
File: 525 KB, 1427x1441, Screenshot_20250210-025255_AliExpress.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896245

>>2896236
Yeah, I have op's one as well; it's plastic and you can store the blades in the handle, but it had bs1010 blades which aren't good for ss, so just got the other one for some 5 €, 10 blades included; it's sturdy and probably will last forever. Neither is telescopic, though. Anyway, like I've said it's just an handle; the blades are what makes the difference.
Btw, they aptly call that model the ng1000 (picrel)...

>> No.2896256

>>2896245
i wish the chinks would hurry up and ripoff the vargus tools. the noga handles are clunky and the chuck is too big

>> No.2896260

>>2896256
>Rb1888 ( left, in the pic)
Probably the best one from that set

>> No.2896277
File: 448 KB, 828x1168, 3309A188-05D5-46CA-963E-238F308B2892.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896277

>>2896256
Like this?



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2896147 No.2896147 [Reply] [Original]

How to make your own toothpaste?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2896205

>>2896198
Too abrasive
Bad for enamel

>> No.2896210

>>2896205
diatomaceous earth

>> No.2896212

>>2896205
>On the basis of the collected evidence, baking soda has an intrinsic low-abrasive nature because of its comparatively lower hardness in relation to enamel and dentin.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0002817717308127

>> No.2896229

>>2896147
idiot

>> No.2896282

>>2896147
baking soda mixed with peroxide



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2896144 No.2896144 [Reply] [Original]

I fucked up, I didn't cut this clean out down before pouring concrete. I tried removing concrete around the PVC with various methods but nothing is working well.

Several plumbing supply places say there is no flush clean out cover for this type of PVC, which is 4" DWV. They only make them for the belled end, which seems ridiculous.

Any good ideas on how to unfuck this?

>> No.2896204
File: 475 KB, 768x831, PVC Inside Pipe Fit Cleanout .png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896204

If I was you I would just cut if flush with the concrete and put a deck plate clean out on it. Something like this just fits into the pipe end.



File: 84 KB, 1512x476, containor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896126 No.2896126 [Reply] [Original]

A container can support hundreds of tonnes on top of it, as this is what it was designed to do.
What if you turn the container onto its side, so that the earth is pressing against the panels that are designed to take weight and pressure?

Any thoughts? I plan on burying mine later this summer.

>> No.2896127
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2896127

>> No.2896128

>>2896126
>>2896127
Thankfully this retarded topic has been endlessly covered on jewtube, so maybe we don't have to have another threa- just kidding OP obviously can't google.

>> No.2896133

>>2896126
None of the panels are designed to handle load like that. The strength is all in the outer frame and particularly the verticals. When containers are stacked they only touch at the corners where they're locked together, not in the middle.

>> No.2896134

>>2896133
this

>> No.2896199

>>2896133
/thread. But OP is welcome to do what many others have and bury it to discover this for themselves.



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2896123 No.2896123 [Reply] [Original]

Is it possible to make a pair of glasses that turn speech into text, I know such things already exist but they easily come out to over 1300 bucks or the industry standard at least. I figured it’d be as simple as attaching a raspberry pi with speech to text software on it to a pair of glasses with a see through display and a mic and a battery but getting them to all work together and still managing to make them fit together seems almost impossible. Is such a thing feasible?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2896268

>>2896265
Also yes you can do it cheaper but it’s much harder to do cheap at scale. Devices like that are often expensive due to niche and certification as medical devices (even if it’s only a bit medical) need paperwork to sell and not get sued out the ass. Making your own crappy one is easily doable (though it will be quite a bit of work if you have zero programming, electronic, or 3d print modelling skills) but don’t expect to set the world on fire with it

>> No.2896269
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2896269

>>2896268
>>2896265
Forgot pic kek
It’s also possible to shave the lens down to a small square that just covers where the screen will be so you don’t have two big ass lenses hanging off your face, and let then let’s do you other at configurations like in pic rel (hard to perfect beware)

>> No.2896271

>>2896265
>>2896269
But seriously it’s a lot of work to do this from nothing and zero relevant skills. Expect to spend months getting to grips with the basics

>> No.2896272

>>2896123
The holographic glasses you need to base it on aren't being made cheaply yet. Like $400 on clearance from epson's moverio line and they're almost the only manufacturer selling to consumers.

Then add a computer and software and I'm actually shocked, that 1200 is actually really reasonable.

>> No.2896273
File: 169 KB, 1080x1799, Screenshot_20250209_211227_Edge.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2896273

>>2896272
Derp



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2896073 No.2896073 [Reply] [Original]

How difficult or complex of a job is it to install a sink or even a toilet in a basically blank room/building. Either diy it paying a profesional

Essentially I am moving into a family members spare room in the backyard which is w seperate small building from the main house. Like a little cabin/flat.

Essentially it's a bare bones room, 3.6 X 4.6m in size with only a light bulb and 3 PowerPoints.

Now I want to at very least install a sink down the line (for basic kitchen stuff cleaning and freshening up) and a toilet (to make it feel like less of a dog kennel). For reference there is a garden tap around 2m away from the building and next to that the hot water tank thing. Cns something like that be done

>> No.2896200

>>2896073

Well, where is your sink or toilet going to drain or flush to?
Septic tank or town sewer?
Are you trying to be legal oe just get it done?

No offense, but your in over your head.
Your trying to make a building that has not been granted occupancy into new housing, no? Installing that toilet and sink can be pretty complicated if done right.

Any sink can drain into a 5 gallon bucket too. Mine does right now.

>> No.2896206

Like the other anon said your in way over your head.
If you want a toilet and sink you need the waste to go somewhere. You need to connect your waste pipes to the houses main waste line somehow. Which means finding out where the main waste line is somehow and probably digging a 6 foot trench to it from your new home. Its a major job that you cant really do as an amateur.

>> No.2896225

>>2896073
Not a plumber but if you dont have direct access to the main lateral or soil stack its a lot of work that will require permits.

A composting toilet, as unappealing as it may sound, works surprisingly well with the only smell being peat moss. running a water line to your abode and installing a sink/vanity with a 5gal like the other guy said is the more realistic diy project

>> No.2896280

>>2896225
>running a water line to your abode and installing a sink/vanity with a 5gal like the other guy said is the more realistic diy project

Tbh I wouldn't really mind this and just tipping it out. It's going to mainly be for a water supply to maybe wash hands, fill up filter jugs for drinking, fill up kettle for coffee etc then I guess I can tip it on my plants. I just want it for basic stuff so I don't need to go into the main house as much. Would probably need to still do more extensive dish washing inside.

Also if I were to get the toilet build professional or even a sink. How costly would something like that be.

As for pipe access etc. just outside my cabin the house is on raised foundation which has a door. So ive been told a bunch of pipes etc can be access from there



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2896037 No.2896037 [Reply] [Original]

How would you go about painting/refreshing this screen door? Would painting just clog the holes?

>> No.2896038

>>2896037
If you want to be lazy, you can just paint over it with a paintbrush. If you want to do a decent job, you have to remove the screen, brush the whole thing, paint/spraypaint it, then apply a new screen. Paint isn't necessarily going to clog the holes in the first version, depends on how much you thin it.

>> No.2896069

Spraypaint worked fine for me but it was a brand new door.



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2895891 No.2895891 [Reply] [Original]

Just moved into a 10-year old house in the UK. Garage floor is extremely dusty pitted concrete.

I'd like to use it for storage in the short term, and keep it capable of taking a car. Longer term, I don't want to do anything that would preclude converting it into a home office or gym.

Current plan is to do this: https://ardex.co.uk/how-to-resurface-a-garage-floor/

I've already scraped and vaccumed every inch of it, but running a stiff brush still generates dust, and I expect a power washer will dig into the concrete.

Also, the DPM in the walls is around floor level. If I pour self-levelling concrete it will flow under and above the DPM, and there is a little damp around the edges in places.

I'm not sure if I should do something to try to prevent damp coming in via the walls before I pour the self-leveling concrete. Or how to better prepare the dusty concrete. Or perhaps I'm just overthinking it and should follow the linked example? Any advice welcome.

>> No.2895960

>>2895891
I ground my garage dead level because I hated how hard it was to sweep, used a planetary machine and some very aggressive 30g metal diamonds. Once ground up to a higher grit, densified and sealed its great. The big issue I have is moisture migrating up from below the slab, condensation, etc. Water coming in through the walls is another issue. Once you seal it its going to trap the moisture and cause efflorescence and other issues. So really your job starts outside, dig down the surrounding, membrane it really well and make sure water flows down.

Then you can start talking about finishes. Your options are epoxy coatings, ground natural finish like I did or, and this is my suggestion, tiling the entire thing along with the bottom 6 inches of the wall, it's much easier and will last a lot longer.

>pressure washing
Removing lose material isn't a bad thing, your ideal would be to use a surface cleaner attachment to your pressure washer then lightly rinsing all the loose stuff out
>floor machine with vacuum attachment
Like what I did, rent a grinder and go to town, work dry and suck it all into a proper vacuum. Super expensive though as your consumables like diamonds are not something you rent. Would almost be worth hiring someone at that point.
>tiles
Cheapest option with the lowest chance of failure. Get a full bodied porcelain tile, nothing to big, as cracks should find the grout instead of the tile the smaller the tile is. use good latex fortified cement and grout, prime the concrete before starting etc.etc.
>paint
Just paint the bugger with a thick coat and re-roll it every year :shrug:

>> No.2896067

>>2895891
Most self leveling concrete isnt usable as a walking/top floor so make sure you get the special stuff.
And yes concrete will get dusty again over time with heavy traffic unless you coat it. They have easy self pouring epoxy for such floors that last really long



File: 11 KB, 819x460, ok.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2895860 No.2895860[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

120.41.130.34 - china / windows / edge
113.76.41.157 - china / windows / edge
117.29.120.65 - china / windows / edge
136.0.220.174 - eua / windows / firefox
104.253.48.246 - eua / windows / firefox
170.79.115.130 - br / windows / edge
5.176.254.171 - turkey / windows / edge
86.108.68.125 - jordan / windows / ?

not sure what to do with these but yeah its here, tell me any idea or do it urself

>> No.2895867

You sound stupid so you probably deserved it

>> No.2895914

>>2895860
>not sure what to do with these

stick them up your ass.



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2895679 No.2895679 [Reply] [Original]

what bulb is this and how can i detach it properly? i unscrewed it and the wires came with it. has the guy that installed this done a cowboy job?

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2895693
File: 153 KB, 1380x1377, led corn bulb.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2895693

>>2895688
the chinks call them "LED corn bulb"

>> No.2895809

just unscrew it

>> No.2895819
File: 12 KB, 560x420, 28957.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2895819

>>2895688
if you are looking for a decent quality replacement, I can recommend GE "Bright Stik" bulbs.
They are flicker-free and the diffuser works really well for evenly lighting the space.

>> No.2895890

>>2895688
BA15s or BA15d. Or BA20 s or d The picture you are taking do not expose if its single or dual at the base.
The lamp socket is E14. unless its HUGE and E21.

>> No.2895918

>>2895890
It's almost certainly E27. E14's are very small, thinner than butterfinger OP's fingers. E21 doesn't exist.



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2895653 No.2895653 [Reply] [Original]

18 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2895908

>>2895897
I guess but feels dirty. I bought it maybe 10 years back and only a couple weeks ago when I went to buy another one I realized where it was made.

>> No.2895910
File: 603 KB, 1080x1920, rail jack.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2895910

>>2895653
bought this 10t stanley railroad jack of cl a few years ago for $50. seems pretty well built but the base is kinda thick for using it as a machinery rigging toe jack

>> No.2896099

>>2895870
>I prefer the Leverlock.
Levelock is what you'd get your college-aged son for his dorm room.

>> No.2896106

>>2895894
Milwaukee and recently Klein are filling that role a lot better imo.

>> No.2896121
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2896121

>>2896099
If the lever locks weren’t so nice to use, maybe I would grab a better tape. I have so many damn 25’ tape measures laying around that I don’t really care enough. Maybe one day I’ll find a fancy auto locking one with a magnet I like and toss some of these old ones



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2895648 No.2895648 [Reply] [Original]

Is it feasible to build one of these to live in? Just slap some fiberglass and a wood burning stove in there and call it good?
On /pol/ they were telling me to build cobson adobe but I want to build 4 of these connected to an outdoor area covered by a roof

17 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2895774

>>2895770
I dunno... I kinda enjoy breaking down pallets.

>> No.2895777
File: 53 KB, 735x680, 1737133163749211.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2895777

I wouldn't break down the pallet sheds
Plus I'll have a little r*ntoid keeping me afloat
Maybe I'll do it once I get a reliable vehicle that can tow like a Honda Pilot for cheap.
Will probably build 8 sheds in total, I want a big house.

>> No.2895788

>>2895648
>Using shitty, untreated wood
>for a house
>to live in
Sounds like a pretty bad idea to me. Maybe if you cover up both sides, and ensure enough airflow, the wood won't warp or rot.
But if you build it like in your pic, the bottom most pallets will start rotting away within a few years, and all of them will have turned grey after the first summer.
>On /pol/ they were telling me to build cobson adobe
Well, /pol/ is one of the highest IQ boards here, after all. I'd go with straw bales (maybe even on a pallet frame) and adobe instead, but there's no denying that adobe is one of the easiest and cheapest materials to work with.

>> No.2895965
File: 123 KB, 960x720, MV5BNTcwYjNmZjgtYzk1Mi00ZDNiLWI4ZDMtZjZlZjYwMDM4NDNlXkEyXkFqcGc@._V1_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2895965

>>2895788
So I can't start with just sheds I gotta 'ob on the log?

>> No.2896192

>>2895788
Can I get more of a lucrative understanding of palletoid housing mate?



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2895645 No.2895645 [Reply] [Original]

Can I just do /diy/ plumbing in that "outdoor area" to avoid the (((permits)))?
Or should I just listen to queer geologist?



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2895636 No.2895636[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

Can I just do /diy/ plumbing in that "outdoor area" to avoid the (((permits)))?
Or should I just listen to queer geologist?

>> No.2895639

>>2895636
>california
dunno I don't play Fallout

>> No.2895641

>>2895639
It's not Cali, it's my special sekrit club



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2895623 No.2895623 [Reply] [Original]

I have a laser CNC and tig/mig/laser welding experience, what are some good books on aluminum welding?

I already got a 1:10 scale prototype jon boat built from actual plans and scrap aluminum (3003 allow probably) and planning on building the real scale one in a few weeks with 5052 alloy, but I would like to read some good books on the matter. Currently have pic related on my shopping cart but found no actual reviews of the book anywhere

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2895705

>>2895704
i mixed shit up in my head and said the wrong forum. this one has the best technical info on building hulls.
http://aluminumalloyboats.com/viewforum.php?f=3

>> No.2895738

>>2895704
There's a lot of general technique and procedure that's the same for most fabrication involving sheet goods or at least overlaps and anything that specializes on one material is more likely to assume that you are familiar with those general concepts and just need the specific techniques for that one material...for that reason I'd recommend looking at a broader range of hard chine boatbuilding info to get the basic principles down and then you can focus on the specific material and its needs/ quirks.
Thomas Colvin did hard chine designs for steel and AL and wrote books on building both

https://www.amazon.com/Boatbuilding-Including-Aluminum-Thomas-Colvin/dp/B0018V8K8E

If you look into places that sell plans for hard chine boats you can also find info compiled by people who have done them in AL...this page alone addresses much of the same stuff you are talking about and has some good tips

https://www.glen-l.com/aluminum/

>> No.2895980

>>2895705
Oh that's even better, thanks

>>2895738
That's a good recommendation too. I don't have a lot of experience with boats either, which is why I'll start with a small simple Jon boat. Learning the general basic principles seems like a good idea

>> No.2895982

>>2895623
>good books on aluminum welding
Finish the hull with a mercury wash.
Helps to cure the aluminum.

>> No.2896103

pleetad 771. Lobomitite 776. Stay with the 77 series.. 77 will stand up to the uteral pounding it will take right up in that cervix. Im trying to find the sourdough bread starter that is made with cultures from Amy Winehouse vaginal yeast. If you eat scabs off a dog you wont get worms. Found that out when my friend got roundworms from face to sphincter contact with a cat. Hit me up and we can chat about whatever and maybe even meet.



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2895516 No.2895516 [Reply] [Original]

supposed to be really neat that sunken windows with overhang lets in low angle winter sun but blocks high angle summer sun. Of course its pretty "set in cement" and can't really be changed once built.

Mirrors seem pretty cheap and they also got pretty durable stretch mirrors used in gyms that I've seen take beatings from rabid Jr High School brats.

How about a system of mirrors to reflect sun away or directly into house, and you'd maybe flip that once a year. Maybe more like adjust every 2 months for max benefit.

With mirrors you could do shit like blast a rectangle of near direct sun up into a ceiling from around a dark shaded corner.

Sure some birds will shit and dust collect but it should 98% hose off just fine. Probably scare off most birds, or will start entertaining "bird fighting itself".

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2895642

>>2895522
I think I'm out because you're losing a patch of outdoors for the mirror to create glare that you also won't enjoy walking past in the yard. On the other hand, using mirrors indoors makes the space bigger.

>> No.2895658

Solar gains in winter are small. Mirror to reflect much light indoors is big and ugly. You're ruining your garden for peanuts.

>> No.2895826

>>2895517

Mirrors melting snow- dumb quick way to get a glare ice path and driveway.

If it finishes snowing at 2pm, theres just enough energy to melt the snow but not evaporate, then the sun goes down and it re freezes, only you used a lot of energy to change it to a skating rink.

If it snows two more inches that night, your fucked.

You push snow somewhere it can melt. Changing states of matter is way less effective than just moving it

>> No.2896070

i use mirrors to reflect sun into my house. it just lays flat outside on a cooling bench or whatever you americans call it outside and makes sure the light hitting it is reflected through the windows, i havent optimized and played with angles etc but it works..

>> No.2896071

>>2895516
Why not just paint it white? all of thediffuse brightness none of the glare or weird distortions