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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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File: 15 KB, 1680x666, CentrifugeIdea1.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]
2049763 No.2049763 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hi all.
My brothers and I came up with an idea for the next time we rally. We want to build a G-Force / Centrifuge type contraption. We have ran through a few ideas but this one seems to be perhaps the simplest.
Ideally, we get a heavy plate and weld some type of gear box to it. On top of that will be a large arm with a counter weight on one end and a seat on the other to throw you outward. Any ideas that could work better? Or design flaws I may be missing.

>> No.2049764

So what is your idea?

>> No.2049765

This is the idea. Build a centrifuge to experience like 7 G's

>> No.2049768

Ok, but that is THE way centrifuges are built, as in for NASA or airforce.
You have expressed a desire for something, not an actual idea about how to make it happen. You have not provided a design in which to point out flaws.

What will support the weigth of the arm turning? You need some massive bearings.
Are you rich enough to waste this kind of money? Do you have experience building steel structures? What will make it turn? what is "some kind of gearbox"?

>> No.2049778

Have you made the initial calculations about arm length and turning speed to achieve desired max G load?
With that you could then design a structure able to withstand that stress, then have an idea of how much that would weight and then look for suitable bearings.
How about acceleration? how much power do you need? will the seat turn in the arms end, so the pilot doesn't feel lateral forces?
How about braking? if the "pilot" blacks out, how will you stop the arm quickly to provide assistance?


>> No.2049786

Seems like you're overcomplicating this, Anon.

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2049758 No.2049758 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So I had a pretty dumb idea.
So basically I take a 40ft shipping container, weld in the floor, doors, windows, and staircase inside of it. Weld on most of the catwalk, then trailer it over to the site and bury like 6-8ft of it in a bunch of concrete sticking right up out the ground like pic related.

Are containers even strong enough to free stand? Will the constant wind forces fatigue the metal?
Will it fatigue and break up the concrete?
Will my county come and tell me to remove it?

I probably won't do it as it costs a lot and I probably can't even put in half the effort to see it through, but the idea of a comfy small lookout tower I can pop into for a night or two sounds like good to me.

>> No.2049766

You are absolutely right, that is a pretty dumb idea.
By the time you buy the container, have someone dig the 20 yd of dirt out, pay $100 yd for concrete, hire a crane to come set it up, and buy all the steel to make a catwalk you will have tens of thousands of dollars in a shitty container sticking out of the ground.
If you are dead set on a lookout tower bury 4 poles, frame up a floor, and build a ladder. Don't make things more complicated than they need to be.

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2049725 No.2049725 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

what's the correct way to fix the bearers to vertical posts on a deck?
The vertical posts are holding up a roof so I can't cut them to be stumps?

>> No.2049736

Lag bolts

>> No.2049739

this, plus you could add a metal bracket or wooden gusset of some sort if you're concerned about strength

>> No.2049740
File: 55 KB, 300x390, 4x4-support-post[1].gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

This depends. The proper way to do it is to use joist hangers or to notch the verticle posts and let in the joists. Joist hangers require that the joists butt up against the vertical posts along their face. Yours appear to have been placed with their sides to the verticle post. That is how you would do it if you were going to notch the posts and let in the joists. Notching, though, may not be suitable for the size posts and joists you have. You didn't include dimensions so I can't say if there is enough 'meat' to the posts for notching. If you just used fasteners, like lag bolts or screws, the strain at the connection would either cause the wood of the joist to fail or cause problems with the fasteners.

Look into picture related. It is a cleat placed below the joint to support it. Again, this depends on the size of your posts and joists.

>> No.2049761

the vertical & horizantal posts are both 100mm x 100mm
I appear to have fucked up and bought the wrong size posts for the bearers
I think I'm going to have to notch & cleat the longer roof bearing posts
the shorter stumps I can rest the bearer on the top

>> No.2049770
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The best way is to use joist hangers

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2049703 No.2049703 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I've never made anything out of wood before, but I want to make a small keepsake box for a close friend for their birthday. I know jack shit about anything to do with building things. Any ideas?

>> No.2049710

Go to Reddit you redditfag this isn't r/mademesmile

>> No.2049713

I'm sorry that you've never cared about another person in your life

>> No.2049717

What tools do you have access to?

>> No.2049726

You could buy a small miter box with a saw, and wood glue is very strong. Draw out your plans for what you want it to look like, then build the pieces. Figure what kind of fasteners you'd like to use (woodglue like I said would work well for a small box like this) and an easy route would be to buy two very small hinges and to fix the lid to the actual box itself. Good luck anon.

>> No.2049737

This. draw it out and design it carefully. maybe even use CAD - you don't need to but why not.

What tools you have will matter a lot. What are you working with? Also are you trying to bone this "close family friend"? If so I've tried to use wooden boxes to get out of the friendzone and it doesn't work.

use hardwood - don't try to do it in pine. although you'd learn a bunch from doing a cheap pine practice version and maybe prevent some mistakes on the good hardwood one.

study up on what finish you want (stain/varnish) and follow the directions. Don't layer hard finishes over soft finishes.

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2049700 No.2049700 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Is it hard to re-sod a lawn? i got a quote from somebody said they'd do it for 4k but that seems like a lot. i could probably save a few thousand just by doing it myself but i'd have to rent the tiller and roller. is it a bitch to do it? also the sides of the yard might be impossible to get with a rotary tiller so im guessing i'd need to just use a shovel or something

>> No.2049711

Sod is 9.00 afor 8 square feet at home depot or 28.00 for 100 at the sod farm same distance from my house you do the math.

I bought a few hundred square feet, put it down in the kids area, doing great, just water it.

>> No.2049722

Helped my brother in-law sod his yard. It was a new development and the site had shitty clay soil so we had to put a top layer of the good stuff first, but actually laying sod is kind of a no brainer. Literally looked up vids on how to do it on my way to help.


>> No.2049727

You can just scatter seeds and water them.

>> No.2049749

literally just did it myself yesterday. took maybe 2 hours including cutting, removal, fitting and installation but granted I was only fixing about 80 sqft of dead lawn. not so pro tip: a sawzall with a very short wood blade is fantastic at cutting sod so you don't have to saw at the dirt with a kitchen knife for an hour, just make sure you don't cut any sprinkler lines!

90c per sqft? God damn. round these parts you can get it for 50c at the nursery and 20-30c for 1-2 day old clearance and I live in a major urban city.

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2049648 No.2049648 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Thread obsolesced by microcontrollers:>>2043890

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:

>Don't ask, roll:

>Archive of Popular Electronics magazines (1954-2003):
>Some guy’s list of electronics resources:
>Microchip Tips and Tricks PDF:
>Li+/LiPo batteries required reading:

>Principles (by increasing skill level):
Mims III, Getting Started in Electronics
Geier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything Electronic
Kybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide
Scherz & Monk, Practical Electronics for Inventors
Horowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics

>Design/verification tools:
NI Multisim
iCircuit for Macs
KiCAD (PCB layout software, v5+ recommended)
Logisim Evolution

Mouser, Digi-Key, Arrow, Newark, LCSC (global)
RS Components (Europe)
eBay/AliExpress sellers, for component assortments/sample kits (caveat emptor)
Local independent electronics distributors

>Related YouTube channels:
Ben Eater

>I have junk, what do?
Shitcan it

6 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2049728

Yeah, but that’s still pretty good for a 14-bit ADC. IIRC the best one I found was the WM8224.

Do you need the noise immunity that comes with a linear front-end? If not, power-brick + LM2596 module + replacement pots + panel meter is a very cheap way to get a decent power supply. Not sure what the minimum voltage is though, I think I ran into issues around 3V.

For a linear front-end however, I couldn’t tell you what the best option is, besides something with a bunch of op-amps for fully-linear. Switching with 1-2V of linear should be possible with an existing switching controller and some op-amps if you know what you’re doing. Might require a variable-reference switcher though, as opposed to a fixed-reference one where you vary the feedback divider. Autoranging multi-tap transformer with linear fine adjustment is ideal, and probably not too difficult for a hobbyist to make or design, but I can’t think how I’d design one besides a whole bunch of comparators, and the BOM-cost gets up there. Also the output ripple when current limiting kicks the voltage down to a different winding might be difficult to handle.

>> No.2049735

I'm mostly looking for something that'll be used with digital circuits including some PWM stuff and analog inputs, right now, so I think a little noise is okay?

I like the idea of being able to put a few modules like that together - would I be okay powering it and a couple of linear regulator based 5/3.3v lines off of the same power brick?

Pretty much an amateur with only one previous "big" project under my belt. I have been reading up on more bespoke power supplies, would like to try one later, but for now something simple would be better, I think.

>> No.2049745

>digital circuits
Purely switching cc+cv would arguably be better than using a 7805 or whatever for digital, since the current regulation would be pretty handy in the event that you shit up. But if you're using an ADC at all, or otherwise doing analog or noise-sensitive stuff with your logic rails, you'll benefit from a linear front-end. Do the calculations on power supply ripple rejection (at different frequencies) of your analog inputs compared to prospective power supplies to see what's worth doing.
It might be worth pursuing a simple op-amp+darlington high-side current limiting circuit you put before the linear regulator for this reason, wouldn't be that complicated at all. I think if you used an adjustable regulator you'd be able to put the current sense resistor after the regulator itself without getting any nasty dropout and removing the need for rrio op-amps. Throw some designs at a sim and see what sticks first though.
There's also always the option of going full-ham with LC pi filters, on both switchers and linear designs. They also rack up the BOM-costs, but if you've got a bunch of salvaged caps and/or inductors it isn't a bad idea.

The current limiting is also hardly necessary if you're confident not to accidentally short something, they're mainly useful when you've got a dumb load like an LED or whatever. In the case of such a dumb load, it's fine to just use the cheap LM2596 solution or equivalent.

Personally I'd make a dedicated digital power supply seperate to a dedicated analog power supply. For the analog supply I'd want split-rail, but that isn't very necessary for digital at all. If you don't plan on doing audio stuff that would warrant the analog supply, leave it out.

>> No.2049750

vector lainscope anon (>>2049010) again
i have realised my shortcomings
i failed level 2 computer science
i am a pajeet programmer
i will try to interpret existing svg files instead of that garbage
but the lainscope will live

>> No.2049756

beauty, isn't she. $75 tho. not the sort of thing you love to see burned

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2049613 No.2049613 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Entry woodwork project for young kids. We prepared the wood parts with nail holes, wheels, axils, toll hitch made of 3D printer. It is a nice project to get the kid to understand how to put design into parts, as well as using basic workshop tools like hammer, wood glue, nails and screws.

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2049601 No.2049601 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'm removing the AC from my '85 RX-7. What's the best way to get rid of the freon? My best idea is to just cut one of the hoses. Am I retarded?

14 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2049767

Technically they are hex head cap screws, so I guess he is right and you are the moron.

>> No.2049775

Pointy= screw
Not pointy=bolt
Get the fuck off my board larper

>> No.2049780

I work for a fastener company, and you are a retard. Brush the cheeto dust off your keyboard and Google it. Educate yourself before you go around being so proudly wrong about things you don't know.

>> No.2049784

Fuck off screwfag, I don't give a shit

>> No.2049785

>What's the best way to get rid of the freon?
I found a "mobile mechanic" guy on craigslist to come do it in my driveway.
Cost maybe $50 or something, I don't recall exactly. Wasn't exactly cheap for five minutes of work, but I went to bed that night with the peace of mind that I was being environmentally responsible.

Then I proceeded to pull all the smog exhaust recirculation shit off the car and put on a bigger carburetor. So I suppose I'm net negative on the environmental impact, with all the CO and CO2 I'm spewing.
But at least I didn't release those CFCs!

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2049541 No.2049541 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hi /diy/, any advice for a would be apprentice plumber? I realized that I fucked up getting a meme art degree, so I've decided to break into trades. Plumbing seems like a decent fit for me. Ultimately; I'd like to specialize in new construction, but I don't mind dirty jobs for decent pay and a valuable skill. I'd like to build my own home one day... well several really, and I figure that being an experienced plumber could greatly help with that venture as well. Any advise on resources, guides, etc? I have my interview soon. Thanks.

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2049567

Depends on the state, in my state which is Florida, you must have a certified plumbing contractors license. A journeyman license is useless in florida since it is a right to work state. I’d assume other states have something similar.

>> No.2049569

Thanks again for the reply.

>> No.2049578

I forgot to respond to your whole response before. As you gradually get more years in you’ll get more responsibility and that should come with raises too, of course. How much depends on the company if you’re non-union. I have worked both non-union and union. Is the apprenticeship you’re looking at currently a union one?

>> No.2049592

Before you break off on your own make sure you know the rates of work and have a good insurance policy if a job goes sideways. Small business is a challenge to start but after word of mouth gets around you'll actually get busy so be patient and try to not doubt yourself if you really want to do it. Never forget to charge state taxes, keep all business related receipts work van, fuel, tools, supplies, uniform, ppe, advertising costs, rental equipment, anything that costs money to work. All business expenses will be a credit to tax owed so if you invest in your business you won't just throw all your money to the government. Good luck on your goals op!

>> No.2049669
File: 3.07 MB, 4032x1960, 20200424_145501.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Shit don't flow uphill. Payday is Friday. Don't bite your fingernails.

t. Licensed plumber in 2 states.

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2049503 No.2049503 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Anybody know how you break into these fields? I've doing an associates in IT and hope to finish up soon, but I've been tempted to apply for Electronic Tech positions that include openings for trainees. Otherwise most of them want "electrical/electronics" experience in the +2yr range. The same goes for mechanical tech jobs in industrial/commercial sites. My school offers degrees in EET and MET, which I almost jumped on, but I stuck with a generalist IT program based on future growth for network techs (did extra coursework in this stuff, but I'll do certs too). I've always had a passion for learning about tech and hardware, but I never had a chance to actually do the stuff outside of high school, and I was a retarded teenager so little was learned.

I know Electricians and Mechanics go through an apprenticeship and do sponsored learning through unions or trade organizations, but with techs the requirements are all over the place. I've applied to the trainee positions, but I don't expect much luck since they'll see my diploma as a sign that I'm not gonna stick around. I don't want to go back to school for this shit, but I wouldn't reject a career in it if given the chance. IT is nice, but the market is saturated and it looks like I'll have to shell out money for certs while I grind away as a helpdesk monkey (since nobody wants to train lowly network techs anyways). Right now I make 15/hr as a security guard doing nothing, all the local IT positions at an entry level are paying 13-14/hr. All the techie jobs are paying 15/hr minimum consistently. It doesn't help I'm in an automotive hub, and our software job market is peanuts compared to other cities in the same region. I'm in Michigan, so I don't know how things are around the country.

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2049439 No.2049439 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do i make that ?
I don't know the parts name in my language and the shops/hardware stores dont seem to sell materials like that + the planks looks all treated with products and shit.

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2049445
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>> No.2049482

Hanging shelves/Floating shelves? Or are you just referring to the type of wood used for these sorts of shelves?

>> No.2049494

These are veneered chipboard shapes filled with cardboard, not actual solid wood. If you want wood like that go chop down a tree, or go to a timber yard and find some joists that arent also made from OSB.
The metal part is easy, buy some steel, learn to weld. Paint.
Job done.

>> No.2049502

For the metal parts, go to a metal supply shop. Also, get a small welder.

Those wood parts look like cardboard honeycomb covered in paper. You could do so much better by going to a lumber yard and getting some nice boards.

>> No.2049505

Hell if you keep your eyes open you can find boards with great character on the side of the road.

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2049432 No.2049432 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'm not sure if this is even the right board to ask but I recently wanted to make some molds and casts but the way sites lay their products out makes this some of the most confusing shit that I've ever encountered. What exactly is the difference between a rubber used for molding and one used for casting? For example Smooth-On sells tin cure rubber molds that are opaque and transparent. Lets say that I want to make something transparent. Why could I not use one of their opaque molds to make a mold of the object and then use one of their transparent molds to cast the object? Wouldn't you just have to apply a release agent to make sure they don't stick? Like why would I have to buy one of their clear urethane casting rubbers?

>> No.2049447

>What exactly is the difference between a rubber used for molding and one used for casting?
The short answer : not much
The longer answer : you want different properties for the material a mold is made from then what your casting is made from. And you don't want your casting to even possibility stick to your mold. Mold-release isn't some magical "never stick to me" product. It's more of a strong suggestion that helps the normal non-sticking.

You haven't said what you are planning on making so we can't help you with the materials used for that application.

>> No.2049456

So basically rubbers made for molds will just adhere to each other?
>You haven't said what you are planning on making so we can't help you with the materials used for that application.
I just got a 3d resin printer with a large build plate so I was just planning on making some molds and then casting with a clear rubber.

>> No.2049468

>So basically rubbers made for molds will just adhere to each other?
Roughly. Think of it as chemical compatibility.

>I just got a 3d resin printer with a large build plate so I was just planning on making some molds and then casting with a clear rubber.
That's actually a really cool idea. Most of the time people cast resin in a rubber mold, not rubber in a resin mold. One thing you could think of is printing a "master", making a rubber mold from that, then casting resin in that rubber mold.

One possible source of confusion is that "rubber" and "resin" are terms used for many different substances.

>> No.2049473

The video on the page is the kind of shit I want to make. That clear urethane stuff is expensive as fuck though. It's $200 for a gallon and it also says its shelf life isn't that long.

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2049426 No.2049426 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hi DIY. I'm an electrician. For years I've been throwing my wire ends in the trash. A year ago, a drywaller asked me if he could keep my scarps. He told me his son (who had down syndrome) stripped them and saved enough money for a vacation to Thailand.
That planted a brain bug in my mind.
For the last year, I have been keeping my scrap copper and stripping it in my spare time.
I ended up with a car load of bare bright copper.
Yesterday, I took it to the scrap yard and made $1100 bucks CND. I've never been to a scrap yard before in my life. It was a great experience. Everyone was so friendly.
I can tell you: it is completely worth it.
This thread is a diary of what I have learned, my methods and tips for aspiring scrappers. Please feel free to ask for advice or give suggestions of your own.
For the record: I Iive in a major city in Western Canada. I mainly do commercial work but for the last year I have been doing residential renovations and various 'side' jobs.

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2049616

Are you doing this by hand? They make devices designed for this that you can attach a drill for $150

>> No.2049618

how many different 'kinds' of copper are there? They throw away a lot of copper at work but not all of it is wire, a lot of it is small refrigerator-like tubing and electronic components

>> No.2049631

my dad does this. he's retired and during the winter it keeps him busy. he just made a run last week and made a little over 900. he strips wire out of pretty much anything.

>> No.2049638

Ive been blessed to have the kind of job that is hell for an hour or two a day and the rest of the day is pretty leisurely. I think if I do a little every day it might add up eventually

>> No.2049751

i do this with an implement that I made. it's basically a 2 by 4 with a hole drilled in it and a drywall screw as the cutting die. i'll post an image later.

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2049423 No.2049423 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Upstairs neighbour flooded my unit half a year ago and the apt still has a strong rotten wood smell. Landlord won't do anything about it.

The water is cleared but there's still a smell and no visible mold. There are some brown spots on the ceiling and I'm pretty sure the drywall is crumbling because there's cracks all over my unit.

The rental market here is crazy, if I move out I'll pay atleast an extra $1000 a month for a similar unit but I'm 'locked in' to a cheaper price. It's cheaper for me to fix my unit than it is to move out. I've been sitting on the idea of hiring a mold-tester company to come and test, and then forcing my landlord to deal with the mold by calling bylaw but I'm not sure if it's a waste of time because there's no visible mold and they're pricy.

How can I make the apartment more livable? I bought a can of mold killing primer and some paint. Any other tips?

>> No.2049537

Can't help with mold testing; but a good whitewash (Lyme + water) will get you better results than any primer.
It will kill mold, strengthen the wood, and still allow it any remaining moisture trapped in there to escape.

Also might want to get a good heater and dry it out first.

>> No.2049549

Carpets and esp. Padding will hold that shit. The point of testing is its not always obvious, you might be able to get a DIY test kit from hardware store. Also not all mold is harmful.

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2049379 No.2049379 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

how can I reflect light over long distances without losing so much of its power? Air particle niggers keeps stealing my photons before they can reach the target, so much of the power is lost >:*(

I guess you can construct a vacuum tube from A to B to get all the light across without loss, but how can I do this over long distances like 2 kilometers?

11 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2049646

OP please tell us exactly what you are trying to do. Are you trying to reflect the sun onto something for energy conversion? or are you trying to take energy you are producing another way, convert it to light, and send it somewhere remote and convert it back? If the first you just have to focus it best you can and deal with scattering. If the second, there are better ways, like microwaves (but beware cooking anything that gets in the path).

>> No.2049678

i wanna reflect sunlight through my underground tunnel network

>> No.2049694

t. kim jong

>> No.2049716

For lighting or what? There are (or were) commercial solutions to gather sunlight and pipe it inside a building via fiber optics for lighting purposes

>> No.2049742

use solar panels, wires, and LED light bulbs to illuminate with sunlight the fantasy bunker that you'll never build nor have the capability to ever build.

there is only one bunkersan and you aren't him.

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2049366 No.2049366 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I don't know if this is the right board for this. I am in the USA.

I'm a bit of a beer history nut. The beer you get from the grocery store today is almost always around 5% alcohol by volume, but this wasn't always the case. For thousands of years beer was very low alcohol, usually around 1.5% alcohol by volume. It was the drink of the common man. It was a sports drink. You'd drink it out in the field on your farm, for breakfast, lunch, dinner, children would drink it, old people would drink it. It didn't have enough alcohol to impede your work but it had sugars to keep you going and the alcohol probably still lowered stress and mellowed people out.

This was the state of affairs until fairly recently, historically speaking. There were even great campaigns to try and foster consumption of this low alcohol beer when stronger stuff came about. During the Victorian era drinking beer, which was still around 1.5% abv, was seen as socially acceptable, while drinking much higher strength gin was seen as a societal ill.

And yet now 5% beer is considered a minimum, and more often than not people are imbibing 8% double IPAs or the like.

I wish to return to that simpler time of lower alcohol beer, but I don't believe there is a single brewery in the USA that makes beer of such low ABV. The lowest I'm aware of is Lowercase Brewing in Seattle which makes a 2.6% abv pilsner.

But in Europe these low alcohol beers are still alive and well. KB Hvidtøl for instance is a Danish beer that has been being brewed the same way for hundreds of years. It's 1.7% abv and is an example of that very early sweet nourishing beer that would have been extremely common hundreds of years ago.

I am keen to buy this beer. But how? Should I talk to my local international food store? I am well aware that to make this a worthwhile endeavor I might have to order a whole case of the stuff.

Anyone have any experience with this kind of thing?


3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2049460

Seems like something you could just make yourself. Make yourself a strong beer, then sparge the mash again for a weak beer.

...or just drink Guinness....close enough.

>> No.2049462

"Table Beer" if you need another search term.

I'm partial to Belgian Quads, so I probably wouldn't be much help picking a good one, but I do know Wild Card out of London makes a Table Beer that's not bad.

>> No.2049485

There's states around the midwest that have 2% beer if that's close enough.

>> No.2049536

Are you referring to "Three Two Beer", which is 3.2% alcohol by weight, which translates to 4% alcohol by volume?

I've never heard of a common 2% beer in any state.

>> No.2049659
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I live in Denmark and try to avoid the type of beer you posted, I will drink it if it is free but I will never buy it, normal beer is better IMO. They are marketed "Christmas season beer". They taste like beer but with brown sugar, caramel and licorice.

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2049275 No.2049275 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Can you build a ~2,000 sq ft home for $150,000 or less in the Midwest? I would do some of the lighter work (floors, painting, etc.) by myself to save money. I plan on contacting a few builders I work with to ask them, but I'm wondering if any of you have experience with this. I'm looking at getting a bigger plot of land in a rural area so I have more room to store my tools so I would be building it there.

7 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2049684


What kind of fucking garbage do they build in the MidWest? Do your Electricians, Plumbers, HVAC, Framers, etc work for minimum wage? Fucking couldn't build a chicken coop for $75 a sq/ft.

>> No.2049707

Cost of living is cheap and so everything is cheaper including supplies and wages are lower. Do you have zero experience in the world? Also, good amount of the supplies are fairly local and do not need to be shipped far, which lowers the cost even more. Most of our food is grown/raised in the midwest, so once again, cheap. My monthly expenses are about $750 a month. You can live comfortably on $25K a year here.

>> No.2049721
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Are you a fucking retard? Your Walmart is no less expensive than my Walmart. Your HD charges the same for a 2 x 4 as my HD.

You're fucking retarded and that is why you think you can build what you call a house for $75 a sq/ft. Anywhere else in the USA they would call it a garage or a chicken coop. 25k a year in Ohio, Indiana, Minnesota, Missouri and Kansas is poverty level you Fucking ape...even in the midwest.

Now go make believe somewhere else you fucking schizo....

>> No.2049748

I bought a prefab chicken coop for $10 sq ft

Your stoned but I agree materials are double now

>> No.2049753

>Are you a fucking retard? Your Walmart is no less expensive than my Walmart. Your HD charges the same for a 2 x 4 as my HD.
Contractors do not buy materials at HD in these parts, as a lumber producing region you can go right to the mill as long as you are buying by the bunk, but they will not deliver unless you buy a trailer full and have fork lift to unload it. The local Builders supply is not much more expensive and will deliver. HD struggles to survive here, actually I am not even sure they are still open, only been there once. Never been to Walmart. Believe it or not, the entire country does not shop at the same few chain stores, the only chain I ever go to is the grocery store and that is a tiny chain, not even a dozen stores. Midwest is filled with small chains, for many things like food they can undersell the national chains since they can exploit local supply chain better. We have no major chain grocery stores in town, we have a Cub, but that is not exactly a major chain. Major chains are largely in the big cities, I can not even remember the last time I shopped at one.

>25k a year in Ohio, Indiana, Minnesota, Missouri and Kansas is poverty level you Fucking ape...even in the midwest.
Poverty line is 12k single person household, $26k would be a family of 4. $25k is about the average starting wage here for a full time job for someone with no skills and all but the most inept should be able to double that in a few years once they have some skills. You can live comfortably on $25k a year here, does not matter where the line is, does not make it any less comfortable.

Have you ever even left your parents house?

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2049258 No.2049258 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hello anons I'm a poor fly over fag from muttland. When I was in high school, my wealthier friend and his family took me to the Bahamas (long live the pirate republic BTW). While there it started a infatuation with the Caribbean islands, I have till this day. Do any of you know about sailing and if so, what should I do to get started. Something about island hoping with a loved one, some drinks, clear water and luscious sun seems superb to me.

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2049331
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With this basically.

>> No.2049394

Learn to sail, buy a boat, and do it. At least that is what I did, should be buying my boat in the coming week, thing I found the right one, just need to sort out the details. Plenty of flyover country has sailing about but you will need to move somewhere and expect to live there for a few years to find a boat, get to know the boat, fit it out, etc, so just move now. Head to the east coast, Gulf or Great Lakes and start shopping for a boat and learning.

There is a reason almost no one does this with a power boat, anything much bigger than a bass boat get 5 miles to the gallon and with the cost of fuel it gets expensive very quickly, marinas generally have high gas prices and island prices higher yet. To do it economically with a motorboat you either need to go ultra light or big enough to have inertia carry you, both are very expensive.

Fan boat would be terrible, they are for flat protected water. They rely on hydroplaning and are very slow until they get up on top of the water. The battery banks and panels you would need to do this would make it not at all cheap. Cheapest will be a sailboat, hands down.

>> No.2049519

OK I'll think about sailing, my question is are motorboats only fossil fuels? Because a alternative power source seems like a interesting concept.

>> No.2049524

Electric is also possible :

>> No.2049550

No, they run them on many things, but the problem is still the same, to get any sort of fuel efficiency you need to either get the hull up on top of the water (or out of it on foils) or have enough mass that the inertia can carry it and the engine just has to maintain speed once it gets up to speed. Both paths are expensive regardless of fuel source.

The vast majority of people living and traveling on their boats do it in sail boats for a good reason, the alternatives are quite expensive, especially compared to the nearly free cost of sailing and the wide variety of well priced and capable sailboats on the used market. Finding a motor boat capable of passage making is not easy, they are and have been made for years, but they are a much smaller market, the boat will have a higher up front cost and will require the cost of converting it to your alternative energy. For that same cost you can get a used sail boat in great shape all fitted out to your needs and have enough cash left over to cover the next couple decades worth of maintenance.

Stop chasing free energy and go live out your dream.

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2049257 No.2049257 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do you fix that with few to no equipment?

>> No.2049296

Apply $7 to counter at local bodega.

>> No.2049314

Ear buds aren't worth trying to fix.

>> No.2049363

Buy new ones for $4
Save these for when you have equipment to practice with, like a tinner or something

>> No.2049403

slavshit showerhead

>> No.2049781

Just buy some new ones, poorfag. Those filthy motherfuckers look like an ear infection waiting to happen anyway.

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2049233 No.2049233 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I have a E Bike with 36V Li-Ion system and I want to charge it at my 12V PV system on the camper when I´m camping.
I can get 240V AC chargers easily but there are barely any 12V chargers.

Can´t I just use a 12 to 42V boost converter, because the BMS in the battery should do all the CCCV charging magic right? Or is there more involved?

>> No.2049235
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Oh yeah the AC chargers usually look something like pic related. Isn´t that just a normal Switching Power Supply with 42V output?

>> No.2049255

Bms won't do "cc/cv" magic, because it does balancing, overcharge, undervoltage, overcurrent protection. But when you supply over current it disconnects the battery, it doesn't regulate current linearly.
But yeah, you can absolutely use a boost converter, just make sure that 1. output voltage is exactly 42v (should be easy with a variable voltage pot) and 2. current is what your battery and bms can handle. Your pic shows 2A so thats probably ok

>> No.2049277

It is a normal switching power supply with 42V output, but it's because chang is cheaping out, it's better to have a proper lithium charger. But these work, and so will a simple boost converter.

>> No.2049285

Thanks, I figured. I´ll try to get a boost converter that isn´t complete chinkshit

>> No.2049377

>I spent $20,000 to power a $400 electric motor that gets me 20 miles on a good day

or you could have just pedaled for free

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