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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1371383 No.1371383 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I has no skin color pensil so i made him a lil Nigga

Rate out of 10

>> No.1371385

Ok fuck u is nobody going to rate this

>> No.1371420

10/10 but... isn't there a board for this?

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1371380 No.1371380 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Has anyone successfully created a homemade co2 powered airsoft gun?

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371437

With no research or knowledge on the subject at all, I'd say without a doubt that yes, someone has created their own gas powered pellet gun somewhere.

Are you asking us how to make one? Because if you are, then that would be against the rules. So you better not be.

>> No.1371439

Yes it's been done many. Many. Times.
They almost never look "milsim" or realistic though. Most aren't gbb either.

Just look up "airsoft Spud gun" and go through some potato gun forums where people have made literal thousands of these.

>> No.1371440

It's a toy, why would it be considered a weapon? Just because it looks scary and flings something?

>> No.1371445

>Just because it looks scary and flings something?

>> No.1371450

>Cuck detected

These are literally toys kids use to play in their back yard or at fields. The fact that he specified "airsoft" meant that he intends to use it safely against other people.

Now if he said bb gun or pellet gun you'd have an actual argument by saying he could use it to hunt animals are harm humans.

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1371379 No.1371379 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So I’ve been building soft, miniature blades out of rulers (unusable as wespons, just for looks), and I have found that I’m having a problem while trying to fix parts together: Some white s*it appears between layers. I don’t want it there, but I don’t know what tipe of adhesive I have to use. I currently use superglue, and the plastic involved is generic ruler plastic
Pic related, is the white stuff inside the build

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371422

A pack of expoxy is $3.75 compared to a pack of super glue $2.95.

Also why not just use regular acrylic? You can get 1x1 scraps of the stuff for a couple bucks anywhere that sells acrylic. And if you gitgud at that (which by your pic, you're pretty good at it), you might be able to sell them to make some profit. Just make sure they don't have an edge on them at all if you don't want to get in trouble for selling kiddies knives.

>> No.1371423

Thanks dude, will take in consideration

>> No.1371424
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So where is acrylic sold?? I buy all my stuff in a chinese Bazaar! I a convenience store? Take ito consideration that I’m an Eurofag too.

Hey, the edges on the things I make are mock edges, they can’t cut shit. As I said, it’s only for looks
Thank you for your advice though.
(Here, have another sample)

>> No.1371435

It would be impossible for me to tell you exactly where to go to buy scrap acrylic, but just look around for places that will cut acrylic for you. Any place that offers a service like that will have a huge bin of scraps that are unusable for their machines, but are the perfect size for doing what you do. And they would be happy to sell you some.

>> No.1371456

Oi, you got a loicense for that attack knife m8?

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1371337 No.1371337 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey /diy/
I'm really fucking bored and I want to upgrade my laser pointer. It's a simple red dot laser pointer.
All ideas are welcomed.

>> No.1371338


>> No.1371339

Add an assault rifle to the end

>> No.1371340

Youre a fucking genius

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1371291 No.1371291 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

So I got a new job where I often used a guillotine cutter, but to cut really thin sheet metal. I also need to know the count of how many pieces I make.

I want to buy a tally counter and add it onto the cutter to make my life easier. How can I accomplish this?

Pic related, pretty sure that is the exact model of cutter at work(except the one at work is like 20 years old and super beat up, but I digress). I want a tally counter with a minus button too cus sometimes you gotta give the thing a extra chop or two to complete the cut.

Also where can I get a decent tally counter? I looked on Amazon and its all cheap Chinese garbage. A quick google search and this popped up https://www.sercal-testequipmentsales.co.uk/atp-instrumentation-atld-2-updown-count-digital-tally-counter-2782-p.asp but I'm not in the UK so shipping would be stupid expensive and it would take forever to show up.

I figured I could use a small spring or other soft-ish material to press the button, but where is the best place to attach the tally counter to the cutter? How should I setup the button pressing spring?

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371350

He wants to count them automatically so he can save time on counting them manually, not take more time making a fucking tally chart.

>> No.1371354

Cut 20 pieces then weigh on scale
Lets pretend they weigh 1 lb.
Cut tons of pieces and they weigh 6 lbs.
120 pieces.

>> No.1371357

there is no way anything you do will be easier or more accurate than just counting. how many can you possibly be cutting at a time anyway?

>> No.1371361
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A vague example but it could be refined to the nuts

>> No.1371421
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How about something like this?
metal sheets go into a bin, this actuates a spoke that turns an analogue dial like this


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1371282 No.1371282 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey fellas
Got kind of a weird project. I'm thinking of doing some exterior lighting on my car. Kinda like what truckers have, only instead of the track lights being visible, they'd run along the underside, giving an orangish glow to the pavement. I was thinking of using this outdoor led strip I got from costco, pic related. What are your thoughts, /diy/?

>> No.1371285

Check its voltage. A lot of those strips series all the leds so you need 120v rms to light them. Not a problem if you have a small inverter.

>> No.1371288
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They make dedicated underglow lights for ricers and fast and the furious addicts.

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1371231 No.1371231 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I want to end with 10 to 20 liters per minute of an inert gas (argon, nitrogen, etc.) flowing out of a hose and work backwards from there to specify the equipment I will need.

As far as I know, the chain of items goes:
*A tank full of my target gas (with a CGA 580 connector for argon, nitrogen, etc.)
* Pressure regulator (dual-stage?) to step down the very high tank pressure to something more reasonable
* Inlet connection (CGA 580)
*Outlet connection (???)
* Hose of some kind
* Flow control valve
* Flow meter or flow gauge (which?) to measure what my flow is

I know there's no direct correlation between liters per minute and psig, but this leaves me wondering precisely HOW to select the equipment I need to get the final flow I want.

I've only taken a couple of welding classes and I thought that welding will be a good place to start with my little backyard experiment.

If this isn't the right forum or I am using the wrong terminology, please correct me. I am happy to order books about the topic and read if there are appropriate ones.

>> No.1371240


Nothing there is anything special. My bog-standard personal setup is just a 280ft^3 bottle with a cheapo eBay regulator/flowmeter combo. For inert gasses, the hose doesn't matter as long as it'll handle the ~60PSI the regulator outputs. Regular compressed air hose (use a new hose just to be sure it's clean) will work fine. Mine's a length of fiber-reinforced vinyl tubing just because that's what I had handy at the time.

Tl;dr: Buy something like this:


Buy your bottle. Use whatever pressure-rated hose you've got available. You didn't specify what you're connecting it to, but, in any case, this will get you a metered gas flow at the end of a hose.

That flowmeter kinda sucks, though. It's obvious from its response to the valve being opened/close than it's not terribly linear, and, therefore, probably not terribly accurate.

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1371227 No.1371227 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I'm trying to build a dummy gun, don't want to pay near 100 bucks. Its for Training class. I got the wood cut a bock of appropriate size. Now I want to cut out the shape of the gun. Glock 17 but I want it to be as accurate as possible, is there a way to print exact size on paper? There are accurate templates of the Glock 17 online, they're never 1:1 exact size, I could enlarge the template but is there a way I can measure it in the computer or in program that will preview how big it will print on paper before I print it, so I can get the exact dimensions I want and cut the shape in wood block?

9 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371274

I know it isn't exactly DIY but gas blowback glock clones are very close in weight and you can find one pretty cheap and modify it to have an auto resetting trigger so you get a weighted clone with controls you can use for dry firing drills.

I'd suggest you look into 3d printing one and putting in weights but since it's a gun I doubt they'd be happy letting you use a public printer for it. Other than that you're just going to have to go off blueprints and do your best with your tools.

>> No.1371275

oops and by gas blowback, I mean airsoft. The gas blowback versions of guns tend to have the closest weight distribution to the real thing when they have a magazine inserted.

>> No.1371302

Go to a sporting goods store and pic up an air soft replica colt. If I pulled this shit out in public, surely I'd be shot. It was only like $40

>> No.1371315

Mate just go but a squirtgun at the Dollar General and spraypaint it whatever color.


>> No.1371442

>don't want to pay near 100 bucks
Then don't?

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1371220 No.1371220 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Possibly stupid question but if I bought some pneumatic vibrators for silos and hoppers, attached them to a bin filled with cleaning solution would it work as a type of vibrating cleaner? Not an ultrasonic cleaner but similar? Would it create the cavitation bubbles for cleaning? Would the industrial vibrators just fuck it all up?

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371242

I've used sandblasting and it's really only good for getting rid of coatings and rust. I donf think they have something soft enough to just get the dirt and grime off of a rifle without taking the blueing off as well.

>> No.1371245

Also I wouldn't recommend cleaning gun parts any way other than manually or with an ultrasonic cleaner. You don't want to wear down the internals.

It might be okay to clean bolts and such using a rolling type polisher with physical media and liquid, but I wouldn't do it on anything that is torqued to spec because it would likely affect the tolerances on the teeth.

Yeah I agree don't touch guns with sandblasting. Soak them and use ultrasonic if you need to and just a manual brush + solvent/oil for cleaning.

>> No.1371250


I seriously doubt you could get any sort of useful cavitation out of this. You'd be better off with a pump to keep fluid circulating around the parts to be cleaned, same as a normal wash tank.

>I donf think they have something soft enough to just get the dirt and grime off of a rifle without taking the blueing off as well.

Blasters are media-agnostic. You could load one up with shredded sponge if you wanted to. I don't think blasting would be a practical alternative to cleaning a gun the usual way, but I'd imagine a plastic media, dry ice, and maybe walnut shells would be relatively safe on the finish.

>> No.1371252

>I donf think they have something soft enough to just get the dirt and grime off of a rifle without taking the blueing off as well.
soda or walnut shells maybe? idk

>> No.1371287

OP here. I'm really just trying to think of a simple project i can do before i graduate and lose access to the entirety of the ag shop at my school. I want to build something I'm going to use until I give it to my kids. (18 btw. Been here since I was 14~ and decided I liked guns.) If I dont find something interesting I'll just build a workbench but I've done it before. Any ideas?

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1371203 No.1371203 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What is this cable called?

It's for my 16 channel DVR

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371212

Fuck off faggot

>> No.1371229

he's right, you know

>> No.1371237

Or you could just stop bumping this and answer the fucking question and let it 404 in a day

>> No.1371260
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BNC cable

>> No.1371276

>implying i didn't sage
invisible sage was a mistake

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1371197 No.1371197 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

She's a genius.


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1371189 No.1371189 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Let's start a language exchange thread for Japanese. Whoever wants can help each other out in learning new vocabulary and ask for advice, etc. including typing in Japanese.
Would be a great diy project if this is successful

>> No.1371190

This already exists in generals on other boards. Go to /a/ or /jp/. This thread does not belong on this board.

>> No.1371204

Al right, thank you

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1371122 No.1371122 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Can someone give me ANY RELEVANT INFORMATION about flex sensors? I'm poor as fuck, so no way I'm going to pay 12 USD per unit + 90 USD shipping. I'll try to make it. I did read the data sheet from Spectra Symbol, but it's not enough. I wanna know all properties from the material, how it's made, etc.

Seriously, any information.

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371128

There’s a few ways to make them.

The way that would probably be the easiest is the get two strips of aluminum foil and a strip of carbon foam.
As the carbon foam gets squished between the foil it will conduct more.

So you get high resistance at no flex, and low-ish resistance at high flex.

>> No.1371134

they were probably better sensors

OP see if you cant buy directly from China, i just found some on aliexpress for 12.00 but shipping was only 2.95

>> No.1371137

Thansks, I'll try it.

I'm from brazil, it would take 1 week for the sensor enter in the country and then, if I'm lucky enough, in 4 months I would have it in my hands. Also, I make 45USD/m, this is my last option.

>> No.1371165

As in $45/month? Jesus Christ just start sucking dick or something. Also what're you needing them for?

>> No.1371209

If that's how it is, it sounds like you could replace carbon foam with literally any slightly resistive powder

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1371113 No.1371113 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I know nobody will see it. I know they won't open this again until they demolish the building. I know it's a waste of time. But I have to make it look good right?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371171
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>troubleshooting an intermittent short
>opens box
>What cockwarbler wired this shit?!

Congrats anon, you are Not That Guy.

>> No.1371173

i know nothing about the angry pixie god's but this looks super professional and like you actually have pride in your work, i'd do you

>> No.1371175

>paid by the hour wy not?

>> No.1371176

It works who cares

>> No.1371226
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>who cares
you will if you are the next guy to work on it

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1371067 No.1371067 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

anyone know how to reset the maintenance log in this Danfoss VLT

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371070

jesus fuck you clowns are helpless


>> No.1371071
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Do you have a PowerFlex you could replace it with?

>> No.1371074

right button then ok

>> No.1371077
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no were in there does it tell you were to clear the log

>> No.1371306


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1371029 No.1371029 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hello, I am looking for advice about a job I might take. I recently lost my job as a building maintenance guy/ handyman and I'm looking at a new building where they want finish carpentry experience. I've done baseboard molding, I've installed doors and fixed windows but is that enough? Is there more to it than just what I listed. Most of my strengths are in plumbing and painting. I can do drywall work and tiling as well. I was thinking I'd go for this job and just google whatever new types of finish carpentry they ask me to do. Any advice? The pay is pretty good which is why I'm looking at it to begin with.

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371124

I'm in the same situation as you op, I'll be lurking

>> No.1371129

This is your answer, if you dont know what the difference between
>base boards, trim, casing, molding, cope, wanescote, crown.
or how to install them it may not be a good fit. If they are willing to train you on some of the finer/tricky parts you will have a marketable skill for life. It sounds like you already know a tape measure from you penis so they may be into taking you on
this is a very true statement
>When its shit, its shit, when its good nobody notices.

>> No.1371161

"A finish carpenter is a carpenter who never finishes."
>When its shit, its shit, when its good nobody notices.
Oh not true. I bought a house partially because I appreciated the craft of the guy who built it (the previous owner, deceased). He knew what the hell he was doing, damn solid in every way. His finish work was top notch.

>> No.1371162

No, that's chairs. Like Swedish ones, except kind of sulky.

>> No.1371180

Ok cool, I have some experience doing cabinetry as well as I've had to install quite a few kitchens. Wish me luck.

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1370973 No.1370973 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Bought a house in December, which included this bitchin’ lamp post out front.

Just trying to confirm that it’s a gas lamp, or what type of bulb it’ll take if electric.

Additionally, if gas, where the valves are usually located. The house was built in 54, not sure about the age of lamp.

>> No.1370975
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>> No.1370977
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>> No.1371108

Take less shitty pics

>> No.1371131

This plus give your general location. Local building practices vary a lot.

That on the right looks a bit like a pilot burner but lets get some clearer pics.

>> No.1371154

gas lamp. Hard Inverted mantle style
Those rings are what's left of the ceramic base when the mantle gives up.
This is probably what they are.
American Mantle Company Inc 7998680

I had one but rewired it for AC long ago. The gas pipe was out of code and quite buggered up.

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1370954 No.1370954 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Good afternoon /DIY/

I'm an avid /out/doorsman, and recently acquired pic related for assisting in processing my hunting successes. The blades are fine, need a bit of cleaning (but are neither stainless nor Chinesium) and I imagine will hold an edge nicely for my needs.

The handles are a bit...worn, and I'm wanting to replace them with handles I make myself. I've already got an appropriate-sized piece of seasoned cedar for the handle halves, but does anyone have any guidance or suggestions for making them match as a pair?

And please, don't post that video of the Japanese guy fixing the busted-ass knife, I've seen it and it won't help me with the handle.

6 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371181

Get some cutlers rivets, they're probably the easiest along with corby bolts.
In terms of finish, teak oil, linseed or actually mineral oil (food safe) and a good buffing with carnauba + bee's wax

>> No.1371312


super glue finish trumps all other finishes i’ve tried. absolutely blown away. hard as shit, super easy to clean, and shiny as fuck.

highly highly recommend, google it

you do something like 5-10 coats sanding in between

i’m on coat 3 of one handle and looking fan fucking tastic

>> No.1371317

Depends on the 'look' you want for the handles, couple of heavy duty knives for kitchen work I'll sometimes do cyno coats, others want a more traditional finish with oil and wax.
Lot of people don't like glossy either, on something like a resto of old knives I'd lean to oil myself, but that's just my opinion.

>I'll go with something harder.
Cedar is relatively soft and not hugely resistant to moisture. You can use it with some G10 liners underneath the timber and between the steel helps a bit. But for the most part the hard as a wedding dick acacia, ironwoods, tropical timbers and stuff like that are generally the way to go.
Handy link on timbers-

>> No.1371329

>vegetable oil
Surely you mean vegetable oils that polymerizes. Like olive and linseed. Oils that don't do that go rancid, notably sunflower.

>> No.1371334
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the amount of work will depend on what power tools you have....a table saw and a belt sander will significantly cut down on the work

you should be able to get small strips of cherry/oak/walnut/maple at any major home improvement chain, as long as you have a power saw, slicing off thin pieces is not very difficult....if not, you can order them online

(I don't see the hubaloo over exotic woods, make it out of whatever looks good to you)

while you're there, get some 1/4" brass rod and epoxy if you don't have it....this is if you plan on making the handles permanent, which is a good idea....the other option is to use chicago screws, which can be ordered online or bought at a place that sells leather supplies

the finish will depend on your preferences and amount of effort you want to put in; mineral oil and beeswax is very easy and fast for a matte surface, but not that durable....Tru-Oil produces a nice glossy result and is durable, but it takes multiple coats and time to cure

top one is maple from a tree that had to be cut down, other two are mahogany

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1370940 No.1370940 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hello /diy/,
I just replaced the 18650s in my old laptop battery pack. After the first charging (laptop said batteries had 0% charge) I went from 100% to 5% hibernate as suggested for calibration, but got only 1.5h of battery life. I was expecting >4. The batteries are genuine. The charging process stuck for quite a while at 99%-charging before saying 100%-fully charged. Then I discharged them to 5% and the computer went to hibernate. I'm discharging them for the second time now and it looks the same again.

How should I re-calibrate the pack? I'm guessing since I got the 18650 at half charge, that the laptop thinks that's the 0% charge. Any ideas?

13 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1371079

>1.5h of battery life. I was expecting >4
You used >4 amp hour cells?
What was the battery configuration? If it is just 3s1p or whatever it is for only one bank of cells the youre not going to get super high capacities using cheap cells

>> No.1371269

3s2p Sanyo 2.9Ah cells genuine

>> No.1371332

after the second charge diagnostics of the battery capacity increased from 37% to 45%. After charging it to 100% again, I'm at 1h40min and 30% battery remaining.

It seems the electronics are cautious and increase max charge incrementally. Only 1 question remains. Will it allow it to charge over 100% (of the original battery pack capacity) because I have new cells with 10% more capacity. Either way it's a win. Will report back later if anyone is interested.

>> No.1371336

I read that on some batteries you need to solder new battery on while old was still connected.

>> No.1371358

I've read that that applies only to certain laptop brands. But it kills the battery pack completely, not just degrading it.

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1370852 No.1370852 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Well /diy/ found myself this little guy. How hard would it be to get it working again?

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1370961

>If you're lucky, it is just a fuse.
if not, it's one of those expensive ass monolithic hybrid ic amplifiers bolted to those heatsinks

>> No.1370979

I think i saw a site with some scans of it. Will do.

>> No.1371086


honestly if you dont know how to test components, how to solder, dont have the proper tools and test instruments, you are just wasting your time. toss that shit back into the trash where it belongs

>> No.1371094

1 - When u try to turn on, the green led turn on (or another light)?

If no, test the Power cable, Fuse, Power Button.
** use a multimeter, to se if the power reach on that itens!

If yes, se if the audio input change something on "power indicator"... if yes but with no sound, probably is the output. Could be AMP, Fuse, or resistor or a track broken.

But no, need to see the input, if had some broken cable or corrode the input.

If u know how, install a Raspberry and put a large SD and make a stereo system that u can put music or listen music from internet. Aiwa is a good system

>> No.1371198


Place a 100 watt incandescent light globe in place of F1. Globe should not light up bright.

Turn it on.

Measure voltage on L1 and L2. Should be near zero.

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