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2023-11: Warosu is now out of extended maintenance.

/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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File: 149 KB, 960x540, vise.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812246 No.2812246 [Reply] [Original]

Snagged this big ol vise, and the table and other pipe vise on the corner plus the grating leaned up against the table for $200.

Also ended up with some old bridge beams (channel iron top and bottom flange with riveted plates along the sides, another metal bench with a Wilton 4" bullet vise and a bunch of metal junk stacked on it, a pile of 2" angle iron, a metal sawhorse/beating stand made out of heavy I beam, a metal cone thingy, some square tubing, a pto winch, snatch block, a good forged shovel, couple pairs of tongs, and a pallet full of sheet metal pieces for an additional $400.

Total spent $600 for a trailer load of goodness.



File: 1.41 MB, 3000x3000, Rubber Mat Gym Floor.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812152 No.2812152 [Reply] [Original]

What type of plywood should I use underneath the rubber matter I put on to create a decent platform for me to lift on? Bonus if this type of plywood would be different for a deadlift mat that would later be carefully sanded and then coated multiple times with polyurethane.

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2812198
File: 129 KB, 840x600, engine-room-noise-reduction-panel-with-anechoic-surface.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812198

>>2812191
Carpets on the wall, or just throw rugs around the room in general. You can also make anechoic panels to place on the wall out of foam egg crate. I'm not an expert on deadlifting but I've had my fair share of apartment living so I know how to make a place quieter. For me it was a combination of throw rugs, tapestries, and aquariums.

>> No.2812199

>>2812198
>anechoic panels
These look ugly, but I guess they could be sneaked in underneath certain places. Would it matter if they lie behind a carpet or a painting if it meant the neighbors would hear less?

>> No.2812205
File: 687 KB, 1537x1080, Rear-Panels1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812205

>>2812199
https://acousticsfreq.com/how-to-build-your-own-acoustic-panels/
Their diffused pattern is specifically to break up sound waves, since any flat surface will make it easier for sound to echo around a room. If you cover them with a thin material you can make them more attractive to look at, but you'll still have a bunch of panels hung up in your room. Depending on the room's geometry there's only so much you can do to minimize noise. Places meant for recording are purpose built and don't account for things in a living space like a hallway to a bathroom or closets.

>> No.2812209

>>2812205
I've heard people just hung up sheep wool pelts or rugs and that absorbs a lot of noise so a tapestry?

>> No.2812210

>>2812209
That's what I did. I've never liked getting too invested in the apartments I used to live in so I always installed things with the idea that it was going to be removed in a year. Your situation might be different.



File: 2.92 MB, 3072x4080, PXL_20240613_091028804.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812100 No.2812100 [Reply] [Original]

Is this damage or wear and tear? Please justify. Used eraser to get rid of the black mark from the bicycle falling

>> No.2812134

It isn't considered damage to sheetrock unless you punch a hole through it. On the other hand, that gay assed pillow or whatever it is should get you locked up.

>> No.2812184

Don't worry about it, rentcuck. Just pretend it doesn't exist and play stupid if your landlord says something.



File: 89 KB, 660x574, c27.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812078 No.2812078 [Reply] [Original]

Hey faggints

I'm in QC and have an engineering degree, but I'm slowly starting to think that it would be nice to have my own production/inspection equipment to make money on the side. Obviously I don't have a crazy ass workshop, only a table, some hand/power tools, fasteners, and a pair of 3d printers, but I feel like there must be people out there who want doohickeys made or some shit formally inspected. I know the initial investment into some mechanical instruments can be quite absurd, but is it wrong to want to be able to produce/evaluate things as an additional source of income here and there? Not sure how far I'd want to go yet, but inspiration would be nice.

>> No.2812084

>>2812078
How are you gonna formally inspect things? What are your qualifications? More importantly what is your business structure and liability coverage? I take my things I need formally inspected to an actual inspector partially because I know he is experienced and trustworthy but also because I know if he fucks up he carries insurance that I can sue for 6, , 7, or even 8 figures worth of damages if it’s something crazy. It’s not wrong for you to go down this route but you gotta think about the practicalities of it. Look at people who are already doing it; what parts can you copy? What parts can you trim to run lean? Standard start a business shit too, how will you get customers? How will you price yourself? Can you price yourself to make it worthwhile endeavor in terms of your time and effort? Etc

>> No.2812135

>>2812078
It's QC so you almost certainly have to get some sort of license that requires you to take a course that costs 2k or some shit. I did handyman shit and I found out overtime that you legally can't even put a 1 screw in a wall for a client without an RBQ



File: 2.11 MB, 4032x3024, IMG_7300.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812021 No.2812021 [Reply] [Original]

I am a retarded nigger faggot who took apart a 1960s fluorescent desk lamp without taking pictures first. It was new in roughly 1968. I attempted to replace the fluorescent tubes with LEDs, but the switches are both momentary switches. There’s no way I can figure to turn the damn thing off.

My problem is that I unwired it without taking pictures. I’ll post what I’m working with and the current state of things. Everything works. I just need to wire it back up for fluorescent t8 tubes again.

46 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2812167

>>2812162
Are your on/off switches like a rocker switch?

>> No.2812170
File: 60 KB, 1001x1001, Rocker Switch.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812170

>>2812167
No, just single shot push buttons. But, if OP can't get his to work, he could try replacing with an individual red rocker and non-functional black push button similar to attached image. They would keep the aesthetic.

>> No.2812172

>>2812163
Well, I'm in my 80's so I sympathize with your father. I'm sure I have the same switch as you. It pops back up when pushed but the lamp stays on. Maybe my springs are old or something. All I know is that it works. If you can't get it to work I suggest you take a look at replacing the single switch with two similar single push button switches of the same size and just wire up one of them.

>> No.2812177

A nice discussion here https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/using-an-old-fluorescent-momentary-on-momentary-off-switch-in-lamp-rewire.169204/

And here's the patent application for the switch https://patents.google.com/patent/US2355303A/

>> No.2812228

>>2812027
>Aren’t t8 tubes banned now?
no



File: 72 KB, 550x367, Daikin Magnitude Chiller Installation.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812006 No.2812006 [Reply] [Original]

I have a cac unit where the transformer works, but I can't get the fan to kick on, or condenser. It worked last summer.

Checked breakers, checked service disconnect was in the on position and the fuse wasn't blown. Swapped tstat with known good, nothing.

The unit is 20 years old and capacitor was replaced 6 years ago.

Should I just buy a capacitor and contactor and replace them? Any other things to have on hand anyway? I've never hvaced. Is the contactor just a relay?



File: 33 KB, 294x291, fig018.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811909 No.2811909 [Reply] [Original]

I'd like to make a DIY radar-based proximity sensor for my robots. PIR or sonar would be easier but radar is cool. The VT radio proximity fuse from WW2 seems like a good design to copy. It produces a binary output ("all clear"/"something is close"), but I bet I can turn that into a useful nearest-object range value with a microcontroller and ADC. They had to use vacuum tubes in 1942 but now it's 2024, so I bet I can drop in a 2N2222 transistor and get the same results. From my Googling and the VT fuze manual, it seems like they used a frequency in the 150 Mhz range, in the upper range of switching speed but achievable with typical ubiquitous BJT/2N2222 transistors.

Has anyone tried something similar before? I couldn't find many examples of breadboard-scale radar circuits online. Will post updates as I go. Thanks in advance.

>> No.2811911
File: 47 KB, 603x246, fig022.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811911

Helpfully, the VT fuze's radar circuit is both very simple and documented in the official government manual:

https://maritime.org/doc/vtfuze/index.php

I have a rusty undergrad understanding of RF and EM physics, more of a coder and metal fab guy, so circuit design and testing will be a learning experience. Besides the VT circuit I'm also examining Chinese microwave range sensors like this one:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832518631589.html

>> No.2811919

>>2811909
at that kind of frequency you might struggle on a breadboard, radio prototypes prefer dead bug style.
the electronics part seems simple enough if you just want to transmit and detect, what is your antenna design?
good luck sounds like a fun project.
you can get fmcw modules for around a hundred bucks, i wonder if you could repurpose an old wifi ap to act in a similar manner.



File: 101 KB, 602x602, main-qimg-1d3717aa8dcaa90b6aca544299f6ced1-lq.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811891 No.2811891 [Reply] [Original]

Neo-crusaders are so based

We should all have leather armor based on Templars. Shoe your armor :]

>> No.2811895

Sir this is a Wendy's and I'm calling the police.

>> No.2811899

>>2811895

Fuck your wendy's it's time to gear up and roll out



File: 233 KB, 1120x1058, chrome_NkzilcKmkd.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811835 No.2811835 [Reply] [Original]

heck yes. its time to teach people to do it their damn selves.

20 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2812245

>>2812221
>>2812226
>>2812227
How much losing does it take to make someone post three walls of text. BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA whew.

>> No.2812253

>>2811835
grade 1: field repairs, stick welding horizontally, flux core welding and drill press usage
grade 2: stick welding vertical, mig welding, bridgeport use for small repairs, small lathe work, basic engine repair and electric motor rebuilding
grade 3: large manual lathe work, turning forged valve bodies and hydraulic cylinders, hydraulic cylinder repair in general, spray welding, large manual mill use for creating tooling
grade 4: heat treatment, forging via anvil and hand hammer, beginning 3-axis CNC mill programming and use, knife-making
grade 5: power hammer forging, beginner die design and milling in both manual and CNC mills, mechanical press stamping and surface grinding for heat treated tools, EDM use
grade 6: 9-axis VMC and VTL programming and production parts, drop die forging with dies milled by the student, titanium forging and machining, steel mill work including blast furnace relining, bridge crane duty moving 500 ton hoppers
grade 7: manufacturing production parts for aerospace, from iron ore to drop forging/500 ton hydraulic stamping and final machining in the 9-axis
grade 8: everyone is forced to drop out and start their own self-contained industrial economy

>> No.2812257

>>2812221
>>2812226
>>2812227

You ever stop and think that the common denominator in all of your problems is you?

>> No.2812265
File: 414 KB, 2024x1300, Seethesaw.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2812265

>>2812244
You need to go back to school so during recess you can ride picrel

>> No.2812284

>>2812257
>IT IS YOUR FAULT!!
Great projection retard, as if I could totally choose what retarded school administrators did, or what dogshit teachers I got. There was no second fucking welding teacher. And before you go “hurr just switch classes lol”I had to stay with the class for the entire three fucking years just to get into the trades job program which turns out to be run by a complete fucking moron who just said “lol go to college” expecting me to pull 6 grand out of my ass instead of actually doing the fucking program which he’s known for.



File: 48 KB, 500x287, RE-OR15--E.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811832 No.2811832 [Reply] [Original]

Looking into building a custom aquarium out of acrylic at a 30" long, 12" deep, 18" high tank. Based on the info I've found, the general rule is +0.125" thickness for every 6 inches of height on the tank. By that rule, I should be using 0.375", but the acrylic that I already have on-hand from scrap is 0.25". The plan is to frame the aquarium not only top and bottom, but also on every corner with wood, epoxying the outer corners to the wood, using solvent on the acrylic joints, and then sealing the inner corners with silicon.

With all that said, would it be possible to just double-up sheets of acrylic, staggering the joints, to end up with a sort of pseudo 0.5" thickness? That would place it over the 0.375" recommended thickness, and my assumption is that they don't expect the builder to be reinforcing corners as I am, since part of what I read said it's not just about the sheets bowing out from weight, but the joints being thick enough to properly adhere; staggering the joints would create more surface area in multiple directions for the solvent.

Pic somewhat related, but not really. The corners are probably going to be 2x2 or 3x3 with the tank set inward 1" so front and sides are visible.

>> No.2811839

>>2811832
Don't be dumb no you can't put 2 pieces together. If you're building an acrylic aquarium then you're building one that's at least 150gallons, don't fuck around with that amount of water in your home. I would personally go with at least .5inch thickness, nothing wrong with being extra careful

>> No.2811845

>>2811839
30x12x8 is about 28 gallons. There are specific solvents for fusing acrylic in order to put them together. Reinforcing the top and corners is already being extra careful.

Guess I'm dumb, though.

>> No.2811846

>>2811839
>. If you're building an acrylic aquarium then you're building one that's at least 150gallons,

4chan logic defies logic

>> No.2811938

>>2811832
>30" long, 12" deep, 18"
that's 3.75 cubic feet. <30 gallons (28.05). that's 220 lbs of water.
reinforcing the corners is a good idea, but the majority of the force from the water is going to be born by the largest surface area - the front and rear panels - and the centers will have the most applied force with the least reinforcement.
acrylic's advantage over glass in this use case is that it will flex more than glass would under the same conditions, but it's still going to fail spectacularly when it does eventually fail.
3/8" might cut it. i'd go for 1/2" if it were me, just to be sure. your idea of doubling it up is stupid. really, the whole plan is stupid. you're not going to glue together a bunch of bullshit you have laying around and make some stylish, sassy aquarium to impress women. probably, you should just die.



File: 2.09 MB, 1015x1655, file.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811828 No.2811828 [Reply] [Original]

Shed foundation on a short plateau?
Was planning on building a wooden shed for use as an office/gym, roughly 3.5x5m, and was wondering what the best way was to make sure it doesn't tumble the fuck down the hill.

>> No.2811830
File: 320 KB, 545x369, ahhhh_that_felt_great.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811830

Welcome to today's installment of /shed/, brought to you by RediMix, proud supplier concrete, crushed stone, and many other fine products suitable for use in your shed foundation.

>> No.2811831
File: 479 KB, 539x484, they_told_me_I_was_crazy.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811831

Go for it OP.

>> No.2811838

>>2811828
wind will knock over your fap shed OP. too much exposure.

>> No.2811922
File: 292 KB, 828x452, Untitled.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811922

>>2811828
Removing trees and too much excavation could cause a spoon slump during heavy rain.

>> No.2811940
File: 7 KB, 623x600, shed.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811940



File: 1.07 MB, 1080x1070, 3rd Attempt @ Tanning.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811803 No.2811803 [Reply] [Original]

1

a mostly failed attempt at brain tanning. wool instantly slipped after "salt pickling" Hide. after fleshing, brain tan was applied. it was gross and ineffective. I will come back to brain technique after I establish some basic concept of process and skills. low grade sheepskin leather for cordage perhaps.

2

chemical tan agent, orange bottle. dry salt, folded, stored in fridge. 3 day process, scraped 2x. it went infinitely better, but the Hide was damaged by fleshing and my 4-legged supervisor attempted a durability inspection. my fault. I had been feeding him meat from the same animal that same day. decent result, but has a hole. there is about a 24" # 30" section that is totally fine. I did not stretch it enough during dry. it is flexible, but rigid. I think I can improve by "post stretching".

3 & 4

same Hide. this one is looking MUCH more promising. 2 days of dry salting, fleshing in-between. Used orange bottle of tanning chemical & hung to dry last night. final dry and stretching now. this evening, I plan to nail it out to a 4x8 plywood. this will help stretch and make a flat flesh side so I can sand it with 120 grit after fully cured. finally, I will "post stretch" it to achieve this magical, theoretical "supple hide" I keep reading aboot.

I brought #3 to work with me today, so I can stretch throughout the day as itfinishes drying. unsure what the ultimate use will be. wife wants some leg and arm warmers for this winter. she works our farm full time, so that is a great use of our animal. the undamaged skin may end up as a rug.

>> No.2811817

>>2811803
What do you do with all the nasty chemicals after tanning?

>> No.2811819

>>2811817

they're in the hide. they are absorbed by the leather.

regardless, I don't live in fear of "chemicals". I don't drink glyphosate, but I don't recoil from it like a vampire in sunlight either.

>> No.2811821

>>2811819
Oh, I figured you would have to dunk them in vats of the stuff to get a good soak.

>> No.2811825

>>2811821

it is "painted on"

I just used nitrile gloves and rubbed/worked it in with my hands. every single drop used is absorbed. in fact, after drying today, I will reapply tan agent, to stiff spots, then further stretch and work the hide. I had 8oz when I started. I probably still have 2 or 3.



File: 68 KB, 1920x1080, lightbox-diagram.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811685 No.2811685 [Reply] [Original]

Hi /diy/, I have no skills in diy but I'm looking to get started with a simple project.

I have some decorative glassware and I want to display it inside a display box for safety and to keep the dust off, as well as to highlight the glass. None of the off-the-shelf options are the right height/materials so I figured I could make my own.

I am thinking of getting a piece of wood with the right footprint and routing in two channels, one for an LED strip and one to slot in an acrylic box I will also make to fit the channels. Then I can simply drill a hole and pass a power cable through the hole to power the LEDs.

My main issue is this: I have no power tools or a real workbench or anything. I have some basic hand tools but the only way I'd be able to do this by hand with what I've got is to carve the channels with a file or rasp which I really don't want to do.

I've heard people talk a lot about Dremels and I know they have lots of different attachments. Is the brand/attachments still worth buying? Will I be able to buy routing/sanding/planing bits easily enough? I have a handful of other projects I could use it for so I can see myself getting use out of it, but I'm open to buying other stuff if it's not too expensive and the brand has gone to the dogs.

Apologies in advance for the crude diagram.

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2811732

>>2811687
>>2811722
+1

Get the affordable Wen one if you want. But if you go with a more expensive name brand Dremel, there’s a million attachments you can get in the future.

>> No.2811755
File: 182 KB, 1435x944, 1718197336434.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811755

>>2811685

>> No.2811790

>>2811755
Was going to suggest this. A good sharp chisel will make short work of it. however it can't really hurt to have a dremel type tool with a bunch of bits and shit either, lots of uses for that.

>> No.2811794

>>2811685
>channel
This is called a rabbet (rebate) and sometimes a dado, from the tool typically used to make one. A dado is a significant investment as it requires a table saw but a chisel and a steady hand will give the same results. Practice on scrap pieces first. Plywood alternates grain direction on each layer.

>> No.2811798

>>2811685
>should I buy a Dremel
Didnt read the rest but yes



File: 144 KB, 1080x1266, 1684549202308760.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811681 No.2811681 [Reply] [Original]

What is house insurance (needed if you have a mortgage) skyrocketing in hurricane country? Surely we're not getting 10x as many hurricanes?

>> No.2811955

>>2811681
For homes outside of hurricane zones, the likelihood of a total loss payout within any given 40 year period is very, very low. Even rarer are incidents where you'll have a large number of concurrent claims. In hurricane zones, you're far more likely to have a total loss payout in any given 40 year window, and it is almost guaranteed that there will be a large number of concurrent claims.

Combine even a slightly increased likelihood of a damaging hurricane with skyrocketing property values, and you're looking at hugely increased exposure for the insurance company. So they have increase premiums to ensure they have the funds available to actually pay out possible claims.

>once every year a house burns down in Bumfuck, MN (1000 homes) with average home value $200k
>single claim for $200k
>$200,000/yr exposure
>need to collect at least $200 a year per home in premiums to be covered

>every ten years Hurricane Fuckyouall takes out 500 homes in Weresofucked, FL (1000 homes) average home value $750k
>500 claims for $750k
>$37,500,000/yr exposure
>need to collect $37,500 a year per home in premiums to be covered

>> No.2811992
File: 26 KB, 266x243, 1712698889124469.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811992

jews are exaggerating hurricane intensity as part of their global warming/climate change hoax, by mis-classifying them using measurements taken a mile up in the sky rather than at ground level and hoping no one catches on

next question

>> No.2812155

>>2811992
Is this related to all the covid vax deaths?



File: 3 KB, 228x245, glep-stare.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811672 No.2811672 [Reply] [Original]

Decided I'm gonna go get MVAC certified so I can fix my car's damn AC (Nobody in town wants to touch it)

Long story short I was an idiot about two years ago and used R134a with sealant added, on top of not inspecting the system (Drier unit was blown out worse than my asshole after four cups of coffee). Big mistake. If I lie and bust a mechanic's machine I'm on the hook for at least $5k

So how do I do a DIY recovery?

>> No.2811673

>>2811672
Wow I hit enter too soon.

I know I can get used machines for a couple hundo that are current-spec (And therefore not illegal to buy)

But I'm not sure where to get the appropriate filters. Drier units from what I can tell will not cut it for separating the sealant out. And they do make giant filters which can do it but cost $500

>> No.2811680

>>2811672
>bust a mechanic's machine
*doubt*



File: 662 KB, 3092x2319, O9dZZ[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2811651 No.2811651 [Reply] [Original]

I've got a 1950s detached garage I'd like to turn into a shop. Problem is it has zero insulation and it gets hot as fuck in there. The construction, from the inside out, is stick framing, tar paper (also called roofing felt), and wood siding.

I know using fiberglass or cellulose blown-in insulation could be a huge no-no if there's a leak. What about rockwool or ridged foam board insulation?

>Where's the sheathing?
It was constructed on the cheap and before plywood was common. It uses let in bracing for stiffness and has no sheathing.

>Weather
California central valley. Hot summers, mild winters. It never snows here. We only get a few nights a year where it drops below freezing. It rains in the cooler months but not that much. It rarely gets humid.

>Your picture is shit.
Thanks. Its from google.

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2812005

>>2811682
The idea is to not do any major work on the structure. I'd like to insulate it with something that is DIY-able but won't get fucked if there is a leak. My understand is that you need something that won't absorb the water and will allow it to dry out so the wood doesn't rot. The place has had leaks in the past and the structure is still sound because, lacking insulation, it dried out quickly and the wood was left unharmed.

The problem is I keep getting mixed messages about stuff. Often times it looks rockwool or foam would work but I can never find if it will help keep the structure from getting fucked by moisture, only that the insulation itself will be fine. Doesn;t really help me if the insulation is good only to find that it trapped water against the studs and they rotted out.

>> No.2812019

>>2812005
The facing of the insulation serves as a vapor barrier. In cold climates, vapor barriers go on the warm side of insulation. In hot, humid climates, they go on the exterior side.

>> No.2812033

>>2812005
I’m in the exact same situation with a similar shed and found this so far:

- You need to be 100% sure that the outside siding is NOT blocking vapour (so that the insulation can breathe). Use a breathable membrane on the cold side.
- Then you block vapour from the inside getting to the insulation with a closed membrane, tape the edges to absolutely minimise air getting between the new insulation and outer sheeting
- Then you ventilate the inside heavily since you created a closed space so need to reduce moisture and make sure the room doesn’t get too cold
- For the roof, if you can, insulate it from the outside (the only ‘right’ method) using sandwich panels or waterproof EPS right below the roofing material.
- If you can’t insulate the roof exterior, either use the same membrane making sure it’s 100% sealed from inside air, or create a breathable attic. Some say it’s impossible to seal it that well, so ymmv

>> No.2812071

>>2812019
>The facing of the insulation
Yeah, but what insulation type should be used?


>>2812033
>You need to be 100% sure that the outside siding is NOT blocking vapour
It is 70 year old tar paper. It is not a vapor barrier. Tar paper absorbs moisture and releases it slowly.

>Then you block vapour from the inside getting to the insulation
The plan is to just put in insulation. No drywall or plaster. This will be a shop. There might be some cabinets here, some pegboard there, but nothing else on top of the studs.

>Then you ventilate the inside heavily since you created a closed space so need to reduce moisture
What is the source of this moisture? Where I live it is hot and dry most of the year. I plan on running an AC in the space, which pulls moisture out of the air. How would I ventilate the space while keeping it cool? Kinda defeats the purpose to cool the space just to pump some 100 degree air into it.

>For the roof, if you can, insulate it from the outside
Again, I'm not going to do any major work on the structure. I'm not replacing the roof.

>create a breathable attic
There isn't really an attic. The roof has a 3:12 pitch. There's just a bit of empty space up there. I think the peak is only about 3 feet from the top plate.

>> No.2812112

>>2812071
> What is the source of this moisture?
Hot air takes up moisture. Any heated air will draw moisture until it’s saturated. From wood and dust and outside air you breathing etc. Even if it’s a tiny amount it will condensate between the cold roof and the warmer insulation, so on the tar paper. If the tar paper or roof sheeting stays moist continuously, it will rot

Tbh I’m insulating to keep it warm, not to keep it cold, and I’m not 100% sure where the condensation point will be if you always keep the shed cooler than the outside. But if you hear it in winter, your tar paper may get in trouble



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2811648 No.2811648 [Reply] [Original]

How do I go about making a gold plated pringles can lid? I know they have gold plating kits. Basically I’d want to put the pringle guys face on the lid like a coin kind of. I was thinking of 3d modelling something and ordering it off some CNC company. I don’t know if I’d get the quality I’d want though. It would at least have to be polished or something. I asked gpt and got completely retarded results so here I am.

>> No.2811927

>>2811648
https://all3dp.com/1/electroplating-3d-prints-all-you-need-to-know/
Read up and check the 3dpg, anon posting there is trying to plate prints



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2811641 No.2811641[DELETED]  [Reply] [Original]

heres a tutor on making homemade crystals

>> No.2811643

Don't do it!!!! That's how you make crystal meth!!!

>> No.2811650

>>2811641
Actually if you do this the silicates in the rock will react with the food coloring, creating a highly radioactive compound that will irradiate everyone within a few blocks.



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2811627 No.2811627 [Reply] [Original]

Is the process different than from vegetable oils?
Let say I have access to a lot of bacon fat and an old 7.3 power stronk.
If we for example experienced some sort of calamity that resulted in collapse of infrastructure and a lot of animal style fat available for processing.
Could we rebuild using old diesel trucks and tractors?

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2811969

>>2811811
OK cool, they are when the animal has been harvested safely for human consumption. However I have access to all sorts of animal fats. Which includes more than my family can eat in several years.
I also don't have anyone autistic enough in my social circles to enjoy a nice jar of bacon grease or tallow as a gift.
>>2811881
Lumpenproles are retarded, more news at 5.

Anywho, I have 20 gallons that were filtered thru a 20micron. As long as I can keep it liquid I bet the ferrrd will drink it. It has a 30 micron fuel filter so that should be no issue. I will wait for a 110 degree day to try this, but I'd like to figure out a way to keep it from solidifying.

>> No.2811977

>>2811969
just dump the 20 gallons. it's not worth fucking around with trying to make fuel from it.

>> No.2812197

>>2811977
Why not make torches and torchlamps?

>> No.2812200

>>2811969
>but I'd like to figure out a way to keep it from solidifying.
just mix it with some other lipid with a lower melt point

>> No.2812225

Wow what a manly bike and manly bacon. Goes so well with my dudewipes.



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2811614 No.2811614 [Reply] [Original]

14 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2811964

>>2811614
try a low carb diet or some fasting?

>> No.2811970

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oC-sQogfh3Q

>> No.2812208

>>2811614
Try smoking more weed

>> No.2812223

>>2811614
Drink water.

>> No.2812249

Brain fog is an umbrella term and not a specific illness, similarly to how people use IBS to describe "something wrong with your digestive system". Without specifics no one can help you.
Try avoiding unhealthy dopaminergic activities and make sure your physical and mental health are taken care of. Also have some social interaction (online doesn't count). That should fix it for most people.