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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself


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File: 79 KB, 750x1000, just fuck my shit up.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517732 No.2517732 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>when you hear your screw extractor snap while trying to extract something

>> No.2517739

nice thread

>> No.2517742

>>2517739
thanks

>> No.2517751

Time to break out the carbide burr...

A lot of times you can tap it in a loosening direction (for an extractor it'd be clockwise) with a center punch. You'll fuck up your punch tip, but it can be re-sharpened...

>> No.2517752
File: 34 KB, 600x600, 9500a_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517752

>>2517751
I used this sort of extractor that you hammer in, not one you screw in
I'm fucked so I have to replace to part



File: 46 KB, 1000x1000, images (1).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517671 No.2517671 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Looking to make a desk in just about this build style, but about 8 foot long, with a 53" gap between the legs on the right and the storage area to the left. I have a 53" floor heater there. I'm looking to make something that would support the table top above and not rock side to side. Any joinery knowledge would be appreciated, I've only ever screwed together a shelf

>> No.2517708

Buy butcher block and standing desk legs. You can have a really nice desk screwed together in less than an hour. Its a little expensive but very sturdy and cheaper than just buying it.

>> No.2517724

>>2517671
>learn to weld
>make a steel frame
>screw on the wood wherever



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2517612 No.2517612 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I have 2 concrete deer with rebar that the previous owner left. I have beat the shit out of it with a sledgehammer with no progress.

How do I destroy these fucks so I can haul them off?

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2517633

Gas powered saw

>> No.2517649

>>2517633
gas powered saw what?

>> No.2517656

>>2517649
The concrete deer

>> No.2517658

>>2517656
saw it doing what?

>> No.2517660

Start a rumor that there's treasure inside them and somebody else will deal with it eventually



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2517594 No.2517594 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Does diy know about electronics?
TV just made a loud POP and stopped working and I’d like to fix it myself and hopefully learn something in the process.
Any advice on how to diagnose a powerboard issue?

>Samsung 55” LED
>zero clue about electronics
>excuse to buy more tools
>prefer to fix individual component rather than simply replace powerboard

>> No.2517691

>>2517594
Power supplies are not the place to start learning about electronics. I've been doing electronic repair semi-professionally for a decade and I still avoid opening one of those fucking things if I can avoid it. The PFC system in virtually every PSU made after 2010 makes it extremely difficult to know if the system is properly discharged, and one wrong move can easily kill you (not the meme fork in 120/240v outlet type of kill you, the several kilovolts type of kill you)

>> No.2517719

>>2517594
what goes through your mind?
>ima take picture
>click
>huh I can't see anything in this
>welp good enough ima upload it.

>> No.2517734

>>2517594
>>2517691
OP as this anon said >>2517691 , I wouldn't go for PSUs as my first repair, but if u have the guts and the brains why not...
so here are the 3 golden roles of PSU repair:

1. never under any circumstance work on it live or connected to the power cable!!! keep the board outside the unit completely unconnected to anything while working on it!!

2. always double check the safety off the board, especially if recently powered or if it is connected to high value capacitors that operate at moderate to high voltage (100v-2kv+), these can pack a strong punch sometimes enough to vaporize a man!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=coW1RHUsf_I

so make sure they are discharged b4 u even think of working on the board!!

3.look at the board carefully, give the board a smell check and if u notice a burned smell or see a component that looks charred or cracked or burned or blown then replace it.
check for common culprits, like switching transistors and diodes, tantalum caps, electrolytic caps, thyristors, Opto-isolators and the such like since they tend to fail first and be the most stressed in operation (here i assume yk how to test them).

once u did that u can start actually repairing and diagnosing the board, i prefer to look at the mains side first, since it tends to be the simplest to diagnose, check the x and y class caps, movs and ptcs, working ur way down stream...
I am the OP from the fixinga thread, i really love seeing anons trying to fix instead of endlessly consuming, just follow the golden roles and don't kill ursellf!!!



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2517535 No.2517535 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do i tie a nuse. I was on the site to long

>> No.2517543

A loop then a loop then loop 13 times and pass the end thru the first loop….fag….no answer hopefully means you were successful

>> No.2517614

>>2517535
>nuse

https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=nuse



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2517522 No.2517522 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Stupid Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2517652
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2517652

Any simple techniques for transferring a complex curve of an object to a drawing without a contour gauge? I'm going to buy one anyway but just curious.

>> No.2517670

>>2517652
I just use a piece of thin cardboard and make a series of parallel cuts up one edge. Then as you place it into position around the curve you bend the cardboard strips up. It accomplishes the same thing as the gadget in your pic related, but it has less detail.

>> No.2517681
File: 873 KB, 681x670, Screenshot 2022-12-08 at 03-46-37 il_794xN.3989746794_79q3.jpg (WEBP Image 794 × 794 pixels).png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517681

I'm making raised beds, 3'x3'x18". I'm using 1 1/2 inch thick wood I sourced from scrap runs. Some of it has cool patterns painted on it, some has plain white paint, some are just weathered. Wife loves how the first one looks.

I'll post a better pic.. picrel is just some shabby chic shit, but it's close enough for now.

My question is - can I leave the paint on? One has what i think is old powdered spar urethane on. Another just has white paint slathered on.

I was going to check and confirm its not lead paint, and I'm going to sand the top layer of urethane off, just because it sketches me out a bit.

Does it really matter? Is the paint bad? Can I repaint them? I'd like to protect the wood a bit, but also don't want to put any toxic shit into my wife's organic as fuck garden beds.

>> No.2517737

>>2517681
I don't know anything about how stuff leeches into soil, but if you can't find any answers here, another place to ask might be /out/'s gardening general >>>/out/hgm

>> No.2517741
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2517741

>>2517522
I want to build a brick oven. what was used for mortar before we had modern refractory materials?



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2517479 No.2517479 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>Want to bind my own book
>Look at the cost of getting a fancy cover done
>$300-500 for some fucking leather
Fuck it, I'll do it myself. I'm building a religious grimoire and I need resources on leatherworking and bookbinding. I want this shit to last for hundreds of years.

Any anons think they can help a fren?

>> No.2517519
File: 52 KB, 500x437, 612xL78gkkL._AC_SY780_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517519

This book has a section in it about book binding.

>> No.2517743

>>2517479
Whatever you do, do not use Google or any other search engine. The internet hates physical books and will lie to you so that you mess it up.



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2517439 No.2517439 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Does anyone have any idea what this could be made of? It's extremely heavy for its size (7 pounds). Doesn't look like lead to me. It is a pipe shape, not solid. More pics to follow.

14 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2517694

Have you tried grinding it?

>> No.2517698

Could be Monel or Inconel, both are heavier than ferrous and stainless steel and have a characteristic dull grayish color from the nickel content.
They generally don't get brittle like that, but there's all kinds of alloys with specific qualities.

>> No.2517701

>>2517439
Holy shit I think that's bophadesium, where did you get this?

>> No.2517703

>>2517439
>>2517440
>>2517441
I am pretty sure this is made out of metal.

>> No.2517728

>>2517439
I would hammer it out into a jeep bumper



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2517383 No.2517383 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Redpill me on wire/rod bending jigs. I need to produce this shape for a tool holster I want to manufacture and sell in my spare time. Excuse my drawing, I'm in the bathtub ajd away from my computer

>> No.2517389

Barbie jeep bumpers are much more lucrative

>> No.2517396

>>2517389
That's my day job



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2517294 No.2517294 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do they make wood box like this? round corners, looks like its made out of a single chink of wood.
i don't think its a sticker

15 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2517600

>>2517321
It's probably veneer due to mass production limitations and the veneer rounding around the corner without grain change

On high end furniture, they'll either go through cords of wood to find matching grain or use the same piece for something the effect you're convinced you're seeing
Even in high end veneer furniture, they'll do "grain matching" which is super wasteful but looks unbelievable

>> No.2517673
File: 183 KB, 1000x700, tanis-ligne-roset-bureau.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517673

I work at a furniture maker where they do folding. It's veneered particle board pannels, after varnishing they machine V channels at just the right depth and fold them.

>> No.2517676

>>2517294
>How
Start with long, wide plank
Cut pieces for box sides such that grain winds up being being only about a blade's-width or two off
Assemble
If you don't believe me, take photos of the faces and lay them next to one another and pull them slowly apart until your eye "snaps" that the grain lines are continuous across the empty gap
Achieving that *snap* in the piece is the point

>> No.2517678
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2517678

They even do curves I've never seen it done in person so I dont know the specifics. They only seem to do it along the grain but I dont know if it's a requirement.

>> No.2517750
File: 681 KB, 720x1600, Screenshot_20221208-084405.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517750

>>2517294
Its a veneer



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2517269 No.2517269 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Beware of counterfeits edition
Last Thread: >>2514198

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 2022-11-19]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Bambu Labs X1
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own Voron, Rat Rig, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://printables.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional parametric CAD programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, TinkerCAD, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do mesh free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.

8 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2517556

>>2517554
print hotter

>> No.2517560
File: 392 KB, 640x360, oh shit nigger.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517560

>>2517538
>not getting the mega

>> No.2517596

>>2517554
Check e-steps, I was getting that after I upgraded to a different extruder without changing e-steps. But I was also getting really weak prints with obvious underextrusion in other parts, so if you don't see that it may be something else.

>> No.2517680

Anyone have a huge printer? Looking at either the Kobra Max from Anycubic or that one massive Creality one.

>> No.2517725

>>2517680
I have a CR10s that I use, but frankly I've been looking at a 100mm cube printer for a while. Most of the thing I print are low, close to the bed, and fit within that volume. Plastic is just not the material for large items.



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2517243 No.2517243 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Tasty microplastics edition

Last Threadhttps://boards.4channel.org/diy/thread/2514198#bottom:

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 2022-11-19]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3, Bambu Labs X1
Over 1000 USD: e3d toolchanger, Ultimaker, Qidi X-CF Pro, Build your own Voron, Rat Rig, Prusa XL (lol enjoy the wait)
SLA: Anycubic Photon, Elegoo Mars, Prusa SL1, Formlabs Form 3, Creality HALOT-ONE
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://thangs.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/
https://printables.com/
https://www.yeggi.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Variants of professional parametric CAD programs such as Solidworks (lol paying for software), Fusion360, Inventor, Onshape, TinkerCAD, and AutoCAD may be free depending on your profession, level of piracy and definition of ''free''.
Most anons use Fusion360, but some /g/oobers prefer OpenSCAD or FreeCAD. If you want to do mesh free-forming and modeling, Blender is alright. Also while not necessarily a design program, Meshmixer (free) can be extremely useful for tweaking models to print.
>>
Anonymous 12/02/22(Fri)18:47:26 No.2514206▶>>2514284
File: not1.png (59 KB, 552x632)
59 KB
bad news boys

52 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2517726

>>2517486
Modern slicers will just make some walls thicker or thinner, a 0.4mm nozzle can in theory do 0.2 to 0.8mm lines

It's still best practice to design for multiples of the nozzle size, since it will be the most accurate that way, but not a big deal.

>> No.2517730

>>2517647
>>2517641
Printing with a wider nozzle will also create stronger prints. Prints are basically layers of plastic string lightly molten together, they delaminate relatively easily. A wider nozzle means the "string" the print is made from is wider, which is more rigid (because you need less layers).

>> No.2517733

>>2517722
Yes.

>> No.2517736

>>2517647
I print with a 0.5mm nozzle. It's a good compromise between 0.4 and 0.6.

>> No.2517746

>>2517623
is the difference significant? also this is only in one plane, are your prints failing? failing by the small increase in strength? there are many other ways to affect strength geometry material, heat. yeah all things considered .6 is stronger than .4 but that's not a real reason to run out and buy .8 nozzles.



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2517207 No.2517207 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I need a battery fixture/holder for two 376/377 batteries stacked on top of eachother, preferably with contacts, but as compact as possible. Does such a thing exist?

>> No.2517216

no

>> No.2517220
File: 66 KB, 574x441, Screenshot_2022-12-07_12-26-27.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517220

You can get holders for 2 cells in some sizes, like 2032 20 mm diameter

>> No.2517233

>>2517207
Drill a 7mm hole maybe?

>> No.2517677

>>2517207
Needs more mercury



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2517110 No.2517110 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Best way to install picrel on a brick wall
Apiece of plywood must go in-between the wall and the panel

Best concrete anchors to use?
Panel will be a couple hundred pounds when complete
Is a hammer drill good enough for brick or is a roto hammer going to be required?

12 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2517548

Hammer drill is good enough for tapcons

>> No.2517549

>>2517494
Maybe like 15 seconds ?

>> No.2517630

>>2517507
5/16

>> No.2517661

>>2517422

not all PVC is the same and require different glues depending on the application. electrical PVC and CPVC have differences that require glue for each type. just deal with it. you can buy the very small cans for small projects they arent that expensive. if you only use a tiny bit then you have some in case another project comes up. just be sure to put that cap on tight or that shit will dry out over the years.

>> No.2517662

>>2517413

>removes the light for the crawlspace to put an outlet in
>has to use a flashlight
>didnt put a light back in when adding the plug

you had one job anon...



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2517091 No.2517091 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Can anyone help me identify this piece?
I'm looking to get more or something equivalent,
it's very small and seems to convert PWM to 4-wire mini Stepper Motor movement
front has two small chips left, labelled SGM-42609D-2202C right, labelled F005C6UA A2471611
cant find anything on what these chips are or how it operates.
Any help would be appreciated

>> No.2517096

You are right on the sgm42609(search on this name for datasheet) being a motor driver but the other chip seems to be some chinkshit

>> No.2517104

>>2517091
In my experience, those ridiculously labeled, shitty ICs are usually spun in-house or contracted privately, and their labels are entirely meaningless to the outside world. Your best bet is to try to reverse engineer it or find somebody else who has done that. You could also try to dump the ROM if it has any.

>> No.2517117
File: 16 KB, 360x208, A4988-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Chip.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517117

>>2517096
>>2517104
Yeah, it's come cheep chinkshit I found a long time ago, unfortunately after looking I don't think anyone has come across this and reversed engineered it.

I need an alternative then, but I'm not experienced in electronics. I thought trying a A4988 driver, but it has very high current for this small hobby stepper motor hmmmmmmmmmm



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2517078 No.2517078 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>tool 'restoration' video
>they tear it apart and machine new parts
>nothing left is made up of the original tool

>> No.2517080

>>2517078
Theseus ship discussion belongs to
>>>/lit/

>> No.2517095

>>2517078
So long as the new parts are replacing those which are designed to ve replaced (ball/acme screws, bearings, etc) or something beyond repair, so long as the replacement is made of the same material and look/function identically, I don't really see the issue. I'd much rather see someone breathe new life into a 60 year old vise/saw/whatever than to let it rot away on the shelf and buy a plastic one from Walmart that'll end up in a landfill after 6 months.

Preservation of the past is not best achieved through meticulously keeping those the artifacts of the past in a static, unchanging state. History isn't something relegated to the distant past. History is happening as you read this, and you are part of it. The way I see it, there's infinitely more value in a tool passed down 3 generations that's been entirely replaced by new parts than there is in one that remained completely unchanged (and unused) for all that time.

Obviously, there are limits to this. If nothing is captured statically, then how will future generations know what the past looked like? Two answers: for one, there are things that need to be kept static. Important documents and art, for example. Those things belong in museums (on display). Your grandpa's jigsaw from the late 60s is not one of those things. If you choose not to maintain it and use it, through whatever means necessary, it will be forgotten. It becomes waste. Additionally, if you keep using artifacts of the past in the present, there's never much question as to what the past looked like, since one can look down at the tool in their hand and see the answer for themselves.

>> No.2517541

>>2517078
>replace screws and hinges
>keep main frame/body
>nothing left is made up of the original tool
???

>> No.2517749

>>2517078
Creates thread on /diy/
>makes up shit
>lies about something else someone does
>killed a thread
>just looking for (You)

>> No.2517753
File: 78 KB, 1400x700, mad-max-nux-shiny-chrome.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517753

>>2517095
History was shiny and chrome.
--some guy on 4chan



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2517060 No.2517060 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

i was thinking of steam powering a bike, was gonna cast engine its self and machine it yada yada ... what is the most efficient way to make steam in a small unit, wanting to attach it beside the bike or in the frame, wanting to power it with wood and shit i find beside the roads, was thinking a coil generator???? your thoughts

10 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2517505

>>2517310
A fuel rod and some lead pants and you'll be legend

>> No.2517618

>>2517310
Study proven smol vehicle boilers then copy success. That's quite easy to do so why have you not already learnt how to make water tube (safest variety) boilers?

Read up on construction and how to properly weld the boiler tubes and shell. You can have the parts laser or water jet cut by a specialist as most machine shops do.

Of COURSE you knew about the Roper velocipede and the Stanley Steamer automobile from your exhaustive reading.

http://www.stanleymotorcarriage.com/Parts/Boiler.htm

Of COURSE you visit live steam forums to ask the experts Yada Yada

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=112038

>> No.2517626
File: 1.46 MB, 3470x2048, lead panties and fuel rod.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
2517626

>>2517618
>>2517505
yes i did have been a good boy and been doing my reading. u think 4chan would be my go to place for engineering??? also not wanting to make your traditional boiler with flu tubes, i was thinking of making it a mono tube boiler. Any way you speak of the fuel rod and lead pants??? is this what u had in mind??

>> No.2517628

>>2517626
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yw3AvSheEE

mono tube boiler (information for the smooth brains)

>> No.2517709

>>2517628
Monotube is easier since no welding and for smol engines should be sufficient. If it isn't it's easy to make another stage.

Make the outer jacket such that you can remove it easily so you can pressure wash the coils. Ditto if you do a conventional water tube boiler but so long as you use a water tube version any leaks will at most smother your fire.

The easier your unit is to clean the less hassle it will be to maintain. If youre gonna do it ya may as well make it maintenance friendly,



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2517030 No.2517030 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Alright /diy/, I recently horse traded with this this retired guy for this rack and all the iron on. I was mostly after the rack and ended up with the iron as well. So now I have a bunch of various size and gauge steel. There some rectangle and square tube, lots of different angle iron, round and square stocks thread bars. A little bit of it all. Anyways, I'd like to monetize in some way, inb4 scrap it. So I ask, what can I produce with this shit that would moderately desirable? I can probably put together a few ball hitch receivers with the big square tube. Maybe some shop stools? I'm not terribly creative but I am capable. Any idea or directions would be greatly appreciated.

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>> No.2517332
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2517332

>>2517062
cut 8010s on a 45 and center cast them ;)

>> No.2517359

>>2517030
You could make a bumper for a barbie jeep

>> No.2517575

>>2517181
Well I got. The rack because I needed heavy storage shelves for shit I own. So the iron is probably going. To go on my iron stack behind the shed.

>> No.2517605

>>2517575
Sounds like you could build an iron rack-- question is do you have a rack for your racks?

>> No.2517650

>>2517605
I have. A few pieces of 2x4 on the concrete and a couple of milk crates I have the rest of my iron and stainless on. I think I'll just buy a couple of cheap stamped steel tractor seats and make a few stools.



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2516898 No.2516898 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I just got a new apartment, yea yea renting I know, but I’m all by myself and have no friends in this state so I have nobody to tell me if the way I’m decorating is nice so far. I haven’t put up any artwork yet but I’m going for a nice chill nature vibe. You guys have any suggestions ? I hope this is the right board for this post please don’t ban me.

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>> No.2516952

>>2516898
>renting a low income housing unit
Oh no.

>> No.2517180

>>2516922
I actually use them on the fucking stucco exterior of my house and they’re not bad assuming I get them on a somewhat flat part and don’t put too much weight on a single hook.

>> No.2517188

>>2516898
>I’m going for a nice chill nature vibe
The only thing I can see that goes with that vibe is the one single plant you have in the room.

>> No.2517198

>>2516898
Definitely move the rug(s?) out from under the couch so it's more centered in the room, and if its really two rugs as it appears, lose one, thats not a thing.
End tables next to the credenza make no practical sense and clutter up that area.
The lounge part of the couch jutting out into the window area isn't ideal, I'd consider moving it to the near end, the coffee table is already there so it's not like it's impeding traffic flow, and then it makes a seat for someone facing the camera position. That also makes the outlet on that far wall more useful and creates the feel of a dedicated seating/conversation area, especially with a well placed rug.
Personally I would then move the tree to that side where it won't look crowded into a tiny corner and will help distract from the AC.
Put a floor lamp (torcheire) where the tree is now and it will help balance things out visually and add some drama/ interest at night when it will cast shadows from the tree into the corner that will look cool and further camouflage the AC.

>> No.2517203

>>2516898
Curtains
Curtains are important



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2516795 No.2516795 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Previous thread:>>2491169

Here we discuss microcontrollers, SBCs and microcontroller accessories, such as Atmel mega and tiny AVRs (Arduinos), PICs, ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP8266/32s, RP2040, Raspberry Pi, and others.

For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor driving, etc.) please ask /ohm/.

>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts
digikey.com
mouser.com
arrow.com
newark.com

>but that's too expensive
aliexpress.com (many parts here are fake, particularly specific parts out of stock in the above sites)
lcsc.com

>I need a part that does X and Y, with Z specifications. How can I find it?
use digikey or mouser's parametric part search. Then purchase from one of the sellers listed above.

>how do I get started with microcontrollers, where should I start?
There is no defined starting point, grab a book and start reading or buy an arduino off ebay/amazon and start messing around. There are a plethora of examples online to get started.

>resources:
https://github.com/kitspace/awesome-electronics

19 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2517585

>>2517579
>RP2040
Has plenty of internal flash and RAM.
>Never seen an MCU/MPU with internal program memory that can also read instructions directly from external memory,
Most ARMs I've seen can do it?

>> No.2517595
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2517595

>>2517585
>Has plenty of internal flash and RAM.
It has zero internal nonvolatile memory. The Pi Picos and other dev-boards just come with SPI flash ICs. Same for ESP32s and such. See:
>https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2201101600_Raspberry-Pi-RP2040_C2040.pdf

>Most ARMs I've seen can do it?
Comes with the territory of DMA I guess. Good to know.

>> No.2517599

>>2517595
>The Pi Picos and other dev-boards just come with SPI flash ICs.
My mistake.

>> No.2517705

>>2517484
>change variables on my ESP8266 via http requests but the values dont seem to change

You can execute any code you like via an http request, so simplify your question by showing us the code that runs via the http request.

My esp is at 10.0.0.205, so when i enter this in a browser:

10.0.0.205/abc

and the code says :

server.on("/abc", do_abc);

that will call the function abc() and do whatever I want.

>> No.2517706

>>2517705
>that will call the function abc

that should say do_abc() to match the server.on function



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