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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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1281448 No.1281448 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

all my double pane windows have these grooves in the bottom of them. I feel like they are for a gasket. Is the gasket called something specific, all the ones I see online are stick on

>> No.1281449
File: 2.22 MB, 2638x1982, IMG_6523X.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

red line is where the grove is

>> No.1281456
File: 14 KB, 540x296, Extruded-P-Seals-Gaskets.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


possibly. lots of windows have pic related in that area, except I couldn't find a pic that shows the little ribs on the part that goes in the groove that keep it from falling out.

If your sash does not have some sort of seal on the front edge where it seats below your interior sill then you might need something to stop air flow if it's all wood next to wood.

>> No.1281462

most of the windows are wood against wood. I figured they builders never put them in. I put some sticky foam stuff but it goes to shit after a year or so.
been trying to find a window supplier online that has a name for them

>> No.1281467
File: 77 KB, 388x227, Screenshot - 11192017 - 02:43:27 PM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

start with that image name, "extruded P seal"

this pic is what i was looking for. those barbs hold it in.


>> No.1281468

awesome thanks anon. Guessing it is a builders product and not avail in big box stores

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1281406 No.1281406 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey /diy. I need som help. Im a blacksmith whose used coal and charcoal for many years. And im switching to propane for a more efficient smelting method. Problem is the pin hole for the gas to escape. Whats the correct drill bit to use? Ill have oxygen control. So i can get the ratios right. But i dont want too much propane. Ive heard 1/32, but i dont know it thats just common hearing because its conveinient. Is there a more efficient size? Thanks~

P.s. pic is my current setup.

>> No.1281412



but. a few years ago I replaced the main burner in my propane (LPG) furnace. the old one had an orifice of about 0.093. (1/32 is 0.031, and keep in mind that area is proportional to the diameter squared).

the optimum orifice, I believe, is when the flame is mostly blue, and not yellow. Yellow means too much gas or not enough oxygen.

I reduced mine to 0.062 (1/16 drill bit) and the flame is nice and blue and looks to be the right size for the combustion chamber. This was 4 winters ago, and it has seemed fine since.

So, if 0.031 gives you a nice sized blue flame then it's fine in my amateur opinion. If you can go to a larger diameter and still have a blue flame you might get higher temperatures with similar efficiency.

And someone who knows will eventually tell us both what we need to know.

>> No.1281417


I should add that my furnace has a plate that says the orifice should be #41 which, if it's a drill size, is 0.096 and I measured the old orifice to be very close to that.

However, the plate also says the manifold pressure should be 11" W.C. which I think means 11 inches of water on a manometer.

So I made a manometer which you may already know is simply a U shaped tube of water with one end connected to the pipe leading to the burner. In my case the valve has a plug you remove and install a standard pipe fitting. The other end of the tube is open to atmospheric pressure, and the water will be pushed by the manifold pressure and the difference should be 11 inches for me. I could not get the pressure that high which is part of the reason I went to a smaller orifice, but the main reason as mentioned above was that the flame was rather yellow before.

Does manifold pressure matter to you? I don't know, but it's easy to rig up and test if you are the type who likes to do that sort of thing. Maybe some HVAC guy will tell us. Back when I was trying to burn my place down I asked on an HVAC forum but once they figured out that I was not licensed they banned me.

>> No.1281423

Start small and then widen it if needed

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1281390 No.1281390 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Basically I have a couple nice pieces of wood left and being the upcycling madman I want to make a folding desk for the occasional pyrography work or a guest table for lan parties.

However I'm kinda braindead today after last night's outing so I can't figure out a cool way to do the folding mechanism. I know there's a way to do it with just one additional piece connecting the table surface with the black piece. The surface piece is 6 cm thick and has a 4 cm deep hollowed out area underneath - the border is also 4 cm wide. I can sketchup the individual pieces in detail if that's of any help.

The green piece is a pair of prefab table legs that I already know how to do.

Pic related, it's the rough folding idea with a stabilizing aluminum U-piece that would rotate and snap onto a bolt or something.

P.S. some might consider this cringe tier making but right now i'm broke and I hate throwing away workable wood.

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281438

I'm the other guy with the folding table. I made it foldable to get more space.
In the end, despite the folding mechanism being really convenient, I never folded it up, because there was always something on the table I would have to put away first. The lack of rigidity was becoming a problem in some cases on the other hand. And designing the plans, assembling it, etc was quite some work compared to just a normal, sturdy table. Additionally, I had shelves below, which were hard to reach, and I could only access the table from 3 sides.

In my new apartment, I just took the same table plate and made it a sturdy work surface with 4 large legs and a skirt. And now I can also move it somewhere else, walk around it, etc.
I'm not thinking that a folding table is never the right solution, but you're often overestimating the usefulness of a folding mechanism compared to the seemingly miniscule disadvantages.

>> No.1281450
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Awwright. I figured out what I'll do. Shit's gonna be neat.

It'll be a 3-piece quick-assembly table. I'll use heavy duty hooks from my old bed assembly for the surface<>sideface connection and a leg piece that will stick into the surface piece from below into a big, snug wooden groove.

This way I can make the surface slightly slanted towards the user area for enhanced comfort. And it should still be possible to add a small foldable shelf into the sideface for my pyrotool.

Alright DIY I guess I didn't need much help, just time.

>> No.1281451

Fashion a spike and drive it through your brain?
Even if it was a word, which it isn't (the word recycle already covered all use cases), you would be using it wrongly.

>> No.1281453


It's time to either learn english or go back to /lit/ and die a miserable prick, anon

>> No.1281458

Think about putting eye bolts above it on the wall and making it like a suspension bridge. Rather than a 45 degree angle below it supporting it, you have two 45 degree angle cables supporting it from above. After I moved out of that room, my brother fucked so many chicks on it. Sturdy af if you grab studs.

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1281341 No.1281341 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Did I draw this right? It's supposed to be an internal gear.

11 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281428
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>orthographic projection is too hard for my brain to handle

>> No.1281433
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It's easier for a layman to understand when there are two gears like this.


>> No.1281434
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And sometimes it helps the novice to see an animation. I know it helped me a lot when I was an undergrad struggling with gearing.

>> No.1281437


shit. It's not playing for me.

>> No.1281461

OP here, why has my thread descended into autism?
I'll do that.

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1281325 No.1281325 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Should i import some E6000 or is national 2 part epoxy glue just as good? I will be using it mostly for phone cases(silicon and etc), resin(epoxy and polyester),wood boards and cardboard(for bookbinding and etc), i will import some of the cabochons and crystals from Ali-express so i guess i should get the E6000 any way, but i also a variety of 2 part epoxy i can buy, what do you guys recommend?

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1281307 No.1281307 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What's the best software to easily sketch out a building in 3D without actually being proficient in 3D modeling? not trying to do anything professional, just a sketch of my dream home.

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281344

AutoCAD is pretty easy.
After you get the house done, you can use AutoCAD Civil 3D to model the yard terrain, and you can add your pipes and sewers

>> No.1281348

Autocad is a pain in the ass and bloated as fuck

All you can do in it is draw lines and extrude polylines

>> No.1281365

Really liking this so far. Limited but easy. I wish there were more furniture options in the free version.

>> No.1281401

If your pirating get chief architect. Roofs take a little fucking around but it’s piss easy.

>> No.1281445


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1281286 No.1281286 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Can anyone recommend any good books about paint and painting techniques? I'd like to learn more about what types of paint I should use in what type of application and what techniques are best for various situations. I have some college chemistry so ideally I'd like a book that can explain things from a chemical standpoint although I don't want anything crazy technical.

I'm thinking about becoming a professional painter and this seems like a logical first step. I would like to be able to paint furniture, houses, automobiles etc. Thanks for your help!

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1281236 No.1281236 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I oiled an old antique chair and the wood looked good first but now it looks all spotty. What the hell happened? Why didn't the oil soak in evenly?

5 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281261

yes, some people like to add their own flair and sell it on etsy.

>> No.1281263

Those people have a special place in hell reserved just for them.

>> No.1281320

>people who pay the most for antiques like everything to be original finish

This is bullshit, and only applies to collectible firearms. American billionaires pay to have 1700's furniture look brand new.

>> No.1281329

You do know that those are antiques because you must apply protection to them periodically, right? He isn't painting it at least.

You need to use boiled linseed oil and beeswax. Google up recipes or buy it. Make damn sure you dispose of your gloves and rags properly or the linseed oil-soaked rags can ignite themselves and spontaneously combust causing a house fire.

>> No.1281414


>linseed oil rags

Yeah I've heard stories about these. Too scared to even own that oil.

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1281216 No.1281216 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I live in a trailer home, and the bathtub in it is made of plastic. It's starting to sink heavily in the middle, makes loud cracking sounds when anyone gets in it, and has a couple hairline cracks I've already epoxied. I want to support the tub so that it doesn't just fucking fall, at least until I can get it replaced. Any ideas on how to do such a thing?

>Picture unrelated

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281224



>> No.1281381
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Rip it all out, build something like this

>> No.1281435

Yeah be sure the door hits the toilet, it's a safety feature.

>> No.1281460

I went to a motel in Harrisburg, PA once near the farm complex. The door hit the toilet so bad, you had to step in diagonally and close the door behind you. Couldn't imagine having a gut.

>> No.1281465

what kind of tub? free standing? built in? front skirt? fibre glass tubs usually have a centre foot that float above the ground when its empty and touches for support when its full. that might have broken.

in all the tubs iv installed, i put a pile of cement in the middle to support it. do that

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1281205 No.1281205 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hey /diy/
I'm planning on building a custom stand for aquariums/terrariums and I've created a 3d sketch of the plans
Will this support 2 filled 20 gallon tanks, and would you make any changes?
Also where can I put the .skp file?
Pic is screen shot (Man is about 5'9")

>> No.1281206

Can't see shit. Post a few more shots with the panels removed, from different angles, emphasising the sub structure. I think I can already see some fail, but hard to tell from this angle.

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1281153 No.1281153 [DELETED]  [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]



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1281078 No.1281078 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Making a table out of crappy pallet wood.

I'm going to add some flashing around the top. Should I stain them gold or brown?

7 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281198

I don't understand the kinks in the legs. Seems like an unnecessary point of weakness, unless the most you'll be doing on it is electronics/very light duty work. Avoid the skirting IMO, if you later want to hang a vice or something under it you'll have timber in the way, and unless it's helping to reinforce the structure (which it does not appear to be) it's unnecessary weight.

>> No.1281221

Since the table looks like hammered shit, brown is the obvious stain choice.

>> No.1281226

>It looks like a woman, baby.

I like how you're compromising the structural integrity of the table (?) with your weird-ass design.

>> No.1281266

it looks like the boston dynamics robot

>> No.1281269

he's right though, they're nasty. have you ever worked in a grocery store? and that isn't even the worst of noxious shit that ends up leaking into pallet wood.

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1281048 No.1281048 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Is there a way to solder stainless steel or can you only weld it?

I have a mini torch like this....


And a larger torch like this....

I also have acetylene and propane (and of course oxygen and regulators).
My dad and brothers own jewelry stores so I can use whatever they have, But they don't have welders.

I can solder precious metals but I've never tried with any other types of metals.

I'm trying to solder the lid on a stainless steel stock pot

7 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281091

Nope, back when I was brewing I fabricated stuff with stainless and silver solder all the time.
You just have to wash it with a dilute acid afterwards to restore it.

>> No.1281094

>You will need a silver solder, try a 5% and a particularly vicious flux that contains hydrochloric acid, zinc chloride and ammonium chloride as its the only way to really munch through the oxides on stainless.

You can easily solder stainless with generic Sn / Pb (tin - lead) solder & soldering iron. You can use H3PO4 aka phosphoric acid as flux.

I did that many time without any issues ( it was AISI 304)

>> No.1281126

acetylene with a nickle-silver brazing rod

>> No.1281151


I have silver soldered stainless steel, McMaster has a florine based flux that cuts the oxide layer just fine. I don't know if I would want to drink out of it after though.

>> No.1281170

Also why not TIG it?

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1281045 No.1281045 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

> Boil water
> Extract steem


Paying bill

Flouride steem? i dont know

15 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281399

You can not phase change a mineral into a metal with just temperature and pressure.

>> No.1281402

well water + RO filter master race reporting in. plebs drinking shitty gay frog water are pathetic

>> No.1281410

I hear this a lot, but never with the accompanying biochemistry evidence.

>> No.1281419


There are metalic flourides: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compounds_of_fluorine#Metal_fluorides

>> No.1281443

Is this a bait or are you genuinely retarded?

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1280880 No.1280880 [Reply] [Last 50] [Original] [archived.moe]

This is the technology board, so why not a thread about this?

Here is the scenario:
>2000 people are sent through a time machine to the dino days to study things
>they can't bring anything but themselves, not even the clothes on their back
>they need to build everything from scratch when they arrive
(this creates an alternate timeline, does not interfere with ours)

How long would it take for them to create:
and eventually, a time machine back home


139 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281241

2000 naked people in an unknown jungle, that sounds like a recipe for disaster. But let's be optimistic, let's say they make i the 1st few days. Let's say they find water and improvise a shelter.
What the fuck are they going to eat? It's 2000 fucking hungry mouths to feed, imagine the logistics of that. But let's say they somehow manage to kill a fucking large herbivore every couple of days so they get to eat.
Let's say they find a clean field and edible plants and roots and they start farming. Have you ever seen the outcome of an elephant herd getting into a farmed field? There's nothing left but elephant dung. They won't have the manpower to guard that field, they won't have the resources to fence it properly, it'll be an open buffet.
Unless they split into groups of 20 max and travel large distances between them they won't stand a chance.

>> No.1281264

well, creating farmland isn't THAT hard, pioneers did it all across America with hand tools.

the real issue is landing in a region with the correct weather, flora, and fauna to allow the time travelers to survive off the land long enough to build shelter and tools augment their productivity.

yes, early pioneers to America had a strange habit of dying of starvation and disease. it's not fucking easy. but once you can establish a large calorie surplus, creating farmland is a breeze. at least for annual crops. the real issue is the centuries of selection required to breed grains and vegetables with large fruits. ever seen wild carrots and onions? they're tiny. the grass seed in your yard is tiny. imagine trying to harvest that shit to make bread.

>> No.1281278


>> No.1281280

>But muh pioneers.
Creating farm land from scratch is hard as fuck, matey.
You're right about seeds and carrots but there are also big fruits and seeds and roots in nature, tapioca and other shit. The problem is most of those 2000 would be long dead before even contemplating creating farm land.

>> No.1281396


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1280856 No.1280856 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Old thread >>1272345

Still new pasta, feel free to contribute.

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
#RepRap @freenode

>buyfag buyers guide
Any cheap chinkshit kit

>basic 3d printing FAQs
https://opendesignengine.net/projects/vg3dp/wiki (lots of useful stuff)

>why do my prints look like shit, visual troubleshooting

>how to calibrate

>where do I get files to print?

>what programs do you make your own files with

>what kind of filament do I want
Begin with a roll of known brand PLA before moving to more demanding materials.

e3d and its clones


http://sintratec.com/ A SLS kit.

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

18 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281407

It only seems to do it when I'm printing something with a small diameter like the legs of an animal or the chimney on the Benchy

>> No.1281409

The area it's printing becomes overheated and gummy/pliable, then sticks to the print head or gets dragged around.

>> No.1281413

Any suggestions on how to fix this?

>> No.1281429
File: 53 KB, 520x693, 1508994366898.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

My printer seems to "spazz out" halfway through prints. Pic related. It's a brand new monoprice mini. It seems to always happen at the same height and the extrufer will move to the bottom left of the fab surface and flip out. Help.

>> No.1281459

Increase cooling / install cooling fan, add more parts to the same print so the print head has to move elsewhere is all I can think of

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1280831 No.1280831 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

how do I make fake blood without food coloring ???

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281072


>> No.1281203

with the right light you can use strawberry or chocolate syrup

>> No.1281296

iron thiocyanate

>> No.1281315
File: 128 KB, 600x736, MAD-Magazine-Beets-by-Dre.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Beetroot juice?

>> No.1281316

Water and corn syrup

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1280788 No.1280788 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Sup /diy/,

I just got this direct vent propane heater to install in an 8x16 shed I'm converting into a music studio. I'm connecting it to two 40 lb propane tanks outside of the shed, on a changeover regulator. The manual says I have to have this unit professionally installed or else the warranty is invalid.


- 1 year coverage from defect and/or workmanship on all parts
- original owner: lifetime replacement coverage of the combustion chamber
- not covered: all labor costs

Do any of you have a direct vent heater, and did you install it yourself or did you hire a licensed contractor?

4 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1280851

They won't.

>> No.1280866

how th fuck are these legal? they'll kill you if you fall asleep without ventillation

>> No.1280867

It's a direct vent heater. That means the waste gas is vented out the wall behind the heater.

>> No.1280879

sorry didn't read. gas and flue routing are really simple. make sure to pressure test the gas line. it's really simple. use your head.

>> No.1281083

Do I need a pressure test or can I just test for leaks with soap?

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1280787 No.1280787 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Does anyone know where I can get this Chroma/QAM demodulator/decoder chip or a cohesive schematic for one I can make.

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1281090

Took some digging but I believe you're looking for a NTE705a. It decodes svideo's chroma signal and output B-Y and R-Y.


>> No.1281095

That's what I'm looking for. I just need to hunt down the schematic for it.

>> No.1281115

Here's another more complex but complete solution. The datasheet even has a schematic.


>> No.1281130

Holy shit, this just might be what I'm looking for. thanks anon.

>> No.1281132

You're welcome.

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1280768 No.1280768 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Bamboo splitting advice? I have a problem with some bamboo project. I wanted to try and make a small hydroponic resevoir for a PVC set up I already have. Just wanted to try bamboo to make it more aesthetic. I see a lot of people doing this on youtube, but when I try it, I get split bamboo. I get the bamboo pre-cured, so I'm going to try and get green bamboo and cure it myself through heating. However, even still, I am told this may not work.

Any bamboo workers out there can give me advice on how to prevent/reduce drastically the splitting of my bamboo?

2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.1280803

Knock out the diaphragms maybe? If you're going to heat cure it you'll want to do this anyway to prevent pressure build up.

Since it's going to be outside and wet you should coat the bamboo in a UV resistant spar varnish if you want it to last.

>> No.1280814

>I have splitting occurring in both punctured diaphragm culms and non-punctured. Neither seems worse than the other.

I'll take a look at the Spar Varnish. Do you know a brand that is food safe off the top of your head? Just googled it and nothing immediately pops up. I know most finishes once cured are food safe, but what about for constant wetting and drying with hydroponic equipment?

>> No.1281034


When I have worked bamboo I always worked it green and just let it air dry, it dries quite well on its own and fairly quickly. Some bamboos are fairly fragile, the thinner walled light weight varieties that are often sold for garden stakes and the like are quite brittle once dry.

My guess would be you either have a poor quality bamboo or they are not well seasoned.

>> No.1281144

k. Would you recommend a species to get?

>> No.1281265


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