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/diy/ - Do-It-Yourself

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2623761 No.2623761 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

if you finished an attic by yourself what would be the cost, I want to neet off my mom with the privacy of an apartment.

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623775

Still Id like to get laid with out introducing them to mom yet Id rather give my mom the rent money in home improvement equity

>> No.2623780

Fucking nigger, your mom gave you everything to start a life and now you’re throwing it away and asking for more. At least be man enough to ask her if it’s okay to bring partners over.

>> No.2623782

I'm looking into to finishing the space above her garage and turn it into an apartment instead of paying rent to a landlord when I go back to school. She wants her own life and I want my own, I just don't know what the ball park material cost would be if I did the labor. My brother is a mechanical and machine learning engineer so I have some one with brains to help me plan it if its in the realm of possible .

>> No.2623791

>the space above her garage
That's a very vague description. How big is it? Is it damp-proof? Is it insulated? Does it have a power supply?

>> No.2623793

I'm drunk so I can't remember the square footage but it is un insulated, the garage is set on its on circuit for welding and what not ant the space was intended to be converted to room years ago and framed that way from the beginning

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2623702 No.2623702 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I don't plan on hurting others with it, I simply wish to make money by selling it to the protesters in my country. The people in my country are so pathetic at protesting. A few smoke bombs should show our government that we are serious

>> No.2623713
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Handfuls of flour in a balloon, a few rocks for weight to help with throwing, or just pour flour using a drone from above, some molotovs to light the flour when there's flour everywhere. Done.

Stupid zoomer. Go back to chemistry class.

>> No.2623715

I don't have a drone, and I am looking for long lasting effects. It should last for at least 30 seconds

>> No.2623719


Study pyrotechnics. Not hard. Requires reading. Then you can cross reference recipes which use available materials in your area.

>> No.2623788

Finally my time to shine.

Get some KNO3 stump remover, found here:
https://www.lowes com/pd/Spectracide-16-oz-Stump-Remover/4764059
that brand works swell.

Then get ahold of some plain white granulated sugar.
Then get a saucepan your ok with ruining(using a disposable pie tin is best)
Pour a mixture of 40% sugar and 60% KNO3 into the pan/tin, and put on low heat. Stir until its a consistent caramel looking fluid, then let cool. Then light.

Worth noting that its very hot at the burn point, and it expels a hot goop that can burn skin, be careful.

>> No.2623796

Nice one
but if you don't want to fuck with hardware shops then you can boil off bleach in some glass container to get sodium chlorate and some salt too
It's basically like KNO3 some say that it burns even better. Grind some sugar in a mixer and mix it throughly, add some candle wax to make it sticky, it also significantly increases the amount of smoke. It can explode in too confined spaces but should be harmless enough

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2623622 No.2623622 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Stop making fun of me

>> No.2623637
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They're not bad for homeowner use. The problem is the battery cells and motors on these things are so low quality the whole thing stalls for heavy duty tasks (ie mixing cement in a 5 gallon bucket). It's so bad that people have reported not much better performance than 12V tools which are lighter and more compact.

>> No.2623638

Stop being poor.

>> No.2623661

works for me

>> No.2623664
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This >>2623661

>> No.2623670

I've got a set of ryobi tools and they're fine for a swinging dick that needs to cut some boards or whatever once every few months. As >>2623637 said I've noticed that the battery capacity is kinda weak but for your average homeowner they're all you need.

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2623601 No.2623601 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What could I do with a cheap stick welder?

13 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623773

What about chopper frames, fuel tanks?

>> No.2623778

Not him but probably as long as it's not too thin.
welding sheet metal with stick is a good way to get angry(for me).
The rods for SS make a neat sound.

>> No.2623781

>Elaborate. Could I actually craft something? is there a way to earn money with this thing.
Sure can.

>> No.2623785

anywhere where you need structurally strong joints that are not required to be aesthetically perfect
so building constructions, pillars, trains...
but you will also find stickers in small workshops making specific stuff, e.g. there is toy factory nearby which stick welds swings, little carts, whatever...

cars, bikes, artwork etc. are usually done in MIG/TIG

>> No.2623790

>chopper frames
Maybe. But should you?
>fuel tanks
Probably no as they are made out of thin sheet metal. Maybe with 1/16 (1.6mm) electrode, but they are super rare.

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2623582 No.2623582 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Is it OK to use nitrocellulose lacquer over an oil based stain? Finishing a guitar.

>> No.2623627

you might want to do some googling
it's okay to use nitro over shellac but idk about oil based stuff

>> No.2623648

You can but the stain should be bone dry (like a few days) and there's still a risk that the solvent in the lacquer might soften and cause some of the pigments to migrate causing spots, streaking and other unevenness...for that reason it's probably safest to use a layer of shellac to seal the stain from the nitro.
But a lot depends on the porosity of the wood, its color, the stain color and how skillfully you apply the lacquer, darker stains on light wood are where you might expect bad things to happen. Best bet is to always make a test piece with materials you aren't familiar with.

>> No.2623656

It's alder, so not very porous. The oil based stain I have is black, I think I'm just going to buy some new shit though so there's no problems. Should I go for water or alcohol based you think?

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2623564 No.2623564 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

im looking to buy a canoe and found one for cheap but it has cracks on the outside of it. owner claims the cracks dont leak but id still like to repair them if I pick the canoe up. how much time and how much would it cost to repair these cracks? ive never worked with fiberglass before.

>> No.2623567

If they don't leak, it's probably just gel coat cracks from sitting in the sun. Float/fill it with water to make sure. If so, there's a bunch of different ways to do it. Most involve removing material with a dremel or sander, filling, and repainting. Sometimes really small ones you can literally just paint over.

>> No.2623748

Canoes are usually pretty easy since there's no tricky corners, repairs are generally just sanding all the paint off around the damaged area, grinding away any broken fiberglass fibers and making a nice taper for a scarf joint, then layering on new stuff in increasing sized patches until you've got decent overlap with solid area, on both the inside and outside if you're making structural repairs, then sand it all smooth and repaint
Price depends on the size but resin and cloth is kinda pricey, might be ~50$ if you can get away with buying the smallest can of resin and pack of cloth and don't care too much about the paint, might be >200$ if you want to do a really thorough job and patch the gelcoat all nice. Get woven roving not chopped strand mat, it costs a little more but not significant for small repairs of this size and it's 20x nicer to work with.

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2623529 No.2623529 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Exterior has every last pin prick hole and seam sealed with metal foil tape, the plywood will be sealed over with metal flashing

>> No.2623531
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Not sure what i'm going to do for a door, it needs a vent and CO2 sensor because if the door seals good enough it will be a death trap otherwise

>> No.2623532
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4 inches hard foam insulation, enitre interior is ceder. The floor comes up and can be removed for cleaning. Probably going to use a tent stove for the heat source.

>> No.2623669

I have an old concrete foundation in my backyard, was thinking of building one of these myself, except from scratch. Would a camping stove really work? Seems sketchy to me, I know the sauna stoves are expensive but it's probably worth it.

>> No.2623678

Did you do a smoke test to look for leaks?

>> No.2623754

>Would a camping stove really work

Its 6x3.5 feet and extremly well insulated, a similar stove can get my cabin to 100 degrees when it is zerooutside and the cabin has 10x the volume.

Not yet, need to do the door. Can't imagine it isn't, the exterior is air tight metal.

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2623510 No.2623510 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

I see headlines about breakthroughs in solar panels becoming cheap and super efficient but they are very expensive. This doesn’t include the batteries to store the power either. Is it best to get the most expensive kind? Is there any way to make anything from from raw materials for cheaper? Maybe over Alibaba?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623513

Just diy some slaves to mine most of it.

>> No.2623514

Why are solar panels selling for $15k?

>> No.2623516

What solar panels are selling for $15k?

>> No.2623538

More like why do scummy installers charge 15k for a 5k system. A large commercial 575W panel is cheaper now than a domestic 250W panel was 10 years ago

>> No.2623820

i already have a 20kw setup but no battery. can someone redpill me on that? what battery backup system should i choose?

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2623507 No.2623507 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>be me
>was a fuckhead neet gamer for most of my life
>started working in A/V for live events when I was 20
>got a job at a company around 23
>some people at the company mentor me for a while and I learn alot
>apply myself and continue improving my skills
>company sends me all over the country travelling to setup events
>always stay in nice hotels
>money is a really solid 6 figures in mid market USA with benefits
>29 now
>fit, skilled, in my prime
>work/life balance is mostly work
>im never home
>cant find a gf due to travelling constantly
>ive reached the top of where I want to be at the company after 6 years
>if I stay for 5-10 more years i will be doing the same events over and over, working for someone else.
>In my industry freelancing is very viable
>80% of the people i work with are freelancers
>they all tell me I will have no trouble finding work
>money is even better than my salary
>decide to quit and become a freelancer
>take control of my direction
>start my own business
>have time to develop other parts of my life besides woooork
>feel like an ungrateful sack of shit for abandoning the company that did so much for me, pulled me out of neet life, gave me opportunity
>threw 6figures + benefits in the trash

Overall I feel I made the right decision, but part of me feels stupid for throwing away the sure thing that was my old job.

Has anyone else had similar thoughts leaving their employment to pursue other avenues?

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623522

>threw 6figures + benefits in the trash
Ouch. Hope things work out for you in the long run; they usually do if you're not a fuckwit. It's always a wrench leaving a good job for a possibly better opportunity.
Don't feel like you're ungrateful. They paid you for the work you were doing for them, and if they paid you that well that meant they liked what you did and thought you were worth it (this is the corollary that goes with minimum wage jobs being worth minimum wage or less). For the most part no company expects you to work for them forever -- most HR people I've spoken to say they almost expect people to have four or five jobs before they're 30. Unless you literally walked out the door screaming how much you fucking hate the place and everyone who works there, you can probably get jobs from your old place on a contract basis or as a consultant in addition to other work, and keep your relationship with the company bosses friendly so that if you DO have problems in the future as a freelance, you may be able to use that to get back in.

>> No.2623524

>neet for most of my life
>working full time at 20

Ok sir these don't make sense

>> No.2623596

youre both right i just have to get over the feeling like i owe them something. I dont, Ive been making them a profit for quite a while.

The decision to leave is really not so much about travelling less or making roots(while those could be nice) but more about how I know I will regret never trying to do this for myself in 5/10 years. They did try to offer me something different, but its not really what I want, i didnt go into the conversation trying to negotiate and i made that clear.

I was able to leave on good terms and odds are they will call me for work as a contractor on shows in the future. So now they will be one of many companies i can work for instead of the only one i can work for.

I think everything will be fine, its just a difficult leap at first to not be as "stable" income wise. But honestly I would be fine making less money if I can have more freedom to work and live as I choose. I have a bunch of contacts i have been reaching out to and hopefully i will get some calls back soon.

>> No.2623621

>>feel like an ungrateful sack of shit for abandoning the company that did so much for me, pulled me out of neet life, gave me opportunity
Don't. If your
is accurate, you gave them more than enough for the work you put in.

>> No.2623668

This. If you would’ve left in 6mos as soon as you had enough experience to put it on your resumé, that would be a little shitty. But if you put in >2 years of good work for them, you made them some money and it’s fair.

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2623446 No.2623446 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

DIY ressources for peniless fools
Hi give your best charts, tuto for no-money poeple in order to save money or improve quality of life.

>> No.2623452
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>> No.2623461

Learn 2 code unironically

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2623438 No.2623438 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

>be retard
>work in heavy equipment distribution
>have big brained money making idea
>take all the 1lb desiccant bags from old boxes
>try to sell as electronics and firewood dryers
>zero interest
So is there any real use for a massive amount of this stuff or is it just trash? I literally have 100 pounds of this stuff at home and another 50-75 pounds in my office at work.

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623491

I read an article once that you can use it to make flux for homemade arc welding rods. You'll just need to find someone who works at a dry cleaners who can get you an unlimited supply of metal hangers and you'll be golden.

>> No.2623502

maybe 3d printer users to keep filament dry would be interested?

>> No.2623518

I use desiccant in my air line for my plasma cutter. Maybe list it as that?

>> No.2623710

Making AC cooler
adsorption cycle/adiabatic wheel heat exchanger

>> No.2623722

Did you try Ebay or local selling? Selling on gun forums makes much more sense than your silly ideas.

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2623407 No.2623407 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

This tank contains the water for my outdoor irrigation system for hanging plants. It keeps growing algae, what can I do to safely(without killing plants) stop the algae build up in this water tank?

>> No.2623409

5 drops of bleach per gallon of water

>> No.2623476

This. A tiny bit of bleach should do it, and it’s not really any more chlorine than you have in regular tap water.

>> No.2623482

UV sterilizing light, might need to switch to a UV resistant container though

>> No.2623551

clear tank = photosynthesis for algae
keep it dark add H2O2 and change the water more often

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2623325 No.2623325 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Is framing a good career to get into or does it just destroy your body and pay little?

>> No.2623340
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Most places stick to union pay scale (mostly because of building codes and the permitting process), which caps you as part of a crew.
25 bucks an hour is only 50k/yr.
But everyone has to start somewhere. There was a time in my life when that would have seemed like a lot of money, so I get it.
The point is to get to where you're running the crew, and then to the one who's got crews out doing the work while you bid jobs and line up more work. That's where the money is.

>> No.2623349

It's easy and a relatively low impact trade but because of this, the pay will always be low

Become an electrician, plumber or HVAC guy instead

>> No.2623813

Carpentry pays poorly and its not that hard.


>> No.2623819

Only the lead guy makes any money and I'm not sure how much that even is. They have a lot of extra headaches like roof layout, meeting all the code demands, making the final look like the picture when print has contradictions, managing tools and crew.
Rough carpentry is fun and it's good to get some experience if you want to follow down carpentry or into building. There's definitely more math and physicality involved than finish carpentry. Post and timber framing should fetch higher rates. It's still a pretty jank career path unless you get into a commercial field and hot location. Carpentry in general is pretty shit unless you specialize and produce. The other union skilled trades naturally progress well without having the monkey on your back to carve out your own business.

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2623318 No.2623318 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Looking for suggestions on tools/brands of tools I should get. Started working on garbage trucks last September, got brought on with absolutely zero experience, been getting trained up. Looking for suggestions for tools I should get. So far I have
>Impacts (3/8,1/2)
>Electric ratchet (3/8)
>Circuit tester
>Snap ring pliers
>Ball joint press
>Standard/metric wrenches, ratcheting wrenches
>Crows feet up to 2"
>Sockets up to 1 1/2
>little tackle boxes full of fuses, connectors, and air fittings
>Air line pliers
>Channel locks

6 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623535

I drive for them and break a lot of shit lmao. He’ll be the lube guy and won’t need much more than basics.

>> No.2623548

My bad I think I was unclear, I've been doing it since last September, I was the pm bitch until about February when I got promoted and they hired another.guy for that. I'd still do a fair number of PMs, but I've also done shit like putting in new radiators, replacing EGR coolers, bolster springs, valve cover gaskets, pto shafts, various valves, brake shoes/cans/lines, and a couple starters and ball joints in the light duty stuff. So I'm.not a complete noob anymore but I still have a lot to learn and a lot of tools to get.

>> No.2623709


>> No.2623730

See Torque Test Channel on jootoob for cordless tool info. I fucking love my DeWalt DCF900B 1/2" impact.

An ordinary ball joint press is too small for big trucks. Find what's popular for what you work on. An air hammer and pickle forks are very useful for suspension work.

Does your shop have an oxy-acetylene torch? If so learn how to use a cutting torch and how to heat stuck parts for removal. Practice on scrap and you can get good enough to wash a stuck nut off a stud without trashing the stud.

A mechanical torque multiplier like the X-4 is a fantastic lifetime tool and you can use it to precisely apply torque too. Heavy equipment guys love them. I use mine for machinery repair, Harley compensator nuts and pinion yoke nuts on pickups.

>> No.2623733

Yeah shop has a torque multiplier and a torch, I actually started with this company working on dumpsters so I'm more familiar with the cutting and welding. The ball joint press is for the light duty trucks/pickups/vans that we have, bought it because our lead mechanic left and he was the only one that had one

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2623272 No.2623272 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

my parents paid someone to put windows in and they put in these shitty windows that i can’t fit my window AC unit in it.

what can i do? it’s about to be 90 degrees in a few days.

3 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623350

Did you try removing the screen?

>> No.2623364

there’s a giant lip coming off the window sill..

>> No.2623384


Put a 2x4 under the AC to raise it higher than the lip like everyone else does

>> No.2623618


>> No.2623645

fuck want us too come over and install for you

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2623249 No.2623249 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

What materials are best? I’m leaning towards plastic, at least on the bottom, because it seems easier to clean.
Any experiences?

>> No.2623385

>I’m leaning
Why should your materials selection be in any way influenced by the selections made by an entire centuries-old industry engaged in fierce competition to serve some of the most demanding consumers of any market?

>> No.2623393

>Anyone ever build a tent before?
nope, what is a tent? never heard of it.

>> No.2623723

Why do you want to build a tent?

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2623246 No.2623246 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

Hello /diy/ I finished my first stock today and wanted to know what you think, the scales are made of white mulberry and the stock is made from magnolia, I find and dry my own wood because it’s cheaper that way, the dead magnolia tree wasn’t as dry as I thought hence the pretty big crack in the stock but I stabilized the wood and put a dowel in the cracks path so it should be fine, everything is stained and coated with polyurethane because I’m gonna use it and also these woods are (imo) pretty dull, the seam with jb weld on the stock is because I accidentally cut it too short and needed to extend it a little, and a 3D printed bit goes into the receiver, also the butt plate is original to the gun so even though it’s kinda ass and is way too slippery for a butt plate I still wanted to put it on there. Any ways enough ranting. R8 and don’t be afraid to hurt my feelings or some shit this isn’t Reddit.

17 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623738

Ah I see the confusion here, there is no bolt that holds the stock on the gun it’s just clamped in between the two receiver halves via this piece which you can see on the old stock, hence why there’s a 3d printed bit on the wood one, here’s how my process went; I realized I had cut the stock too short so I glued a piece on the end with 2 dowels going through to line it up BUT I didn’t have a way to effective way to clamp it, at this point I should have put a screw going through the extra piece going into the stock to clamp it together, but I didn’t so I assume the piece separated because of that. I only realized it was coming apart once I had already fully assembled and was testing the gun, so to fix this I pulled the stock apart smeared the two halves with jb weld to make sure they didn’t come apart (I was pretty mad at this point because I had already finished and clear coated the stock) and I put a screw through it like I should have done in the first place to clamp them together, but they didn’t pull together fully leaving an ugly gap. Hope this clears it up.

>> No.2623741

What? Would you rather I had fucked up an actual gun instead of a 70$ pellet gun, I’m just trying to practice stock making. Take your meds

>> No.2623742
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Forgot the pic.

>> No.2623750

The rest of the stock is okay, but the JB weld and 3D print looks like ass

>> No.2623808

Looks pretty good.

Do you have a copy of the first and second "Gunsmith Kinks"? The first volume is literally almost entirely about dealing with gun stocks. The second has some other stuff but still quite a few chapters on stocks and furniture.

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2623235 No.2623235 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do I strengthen this roof? I bought a property and previous owners started building this shed but the roof isn't so sturdy. No building codes here so I don't give a shit. How do I make this so it isn't so wobbly? It's not bad as it is but I don't trust climbing up to sheet it. Thanks dudes

1 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623264

Diagonal as Anon mentioned and also perlins, Z nails in the sides of the truss ends and stud straps over the end of them would help.

>> No.2623282

If you add joists you can tie those into the rafters. Adding a ridge and sheething will stiffen it up.

>> No.2623304
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1. Put a joist at the bottom of each arch. This completes the triangle and means the roof won't splat down and push the walls out when any weight is placed on it
2. Put an underperlin running from the front to the back attached to each of the triangle roof trusses as it passes them. This locks them together so they don't fold over sideways under stress

>> No.2623327

Put plywood on it

>> No.2623344

The big issue is that how they attached the boards to the sill plate with screws but have nothing else stopping them from flaring out given the outward pressure that will be on that part of the roof

You *need* a board run across the bottom or the roof will sheer off one side or the other

This doesn't mention the lack of a double top plate, solid board across the peak or clear lack of construction knowledge all around

I would unironically remove the shit roof framing, watch some roof framing videos, add an overlapping second top plate so your shed doesn't just randomly lose the short wall when the wind comes up and then properly notch the boards and have an overhang and then put in proper cros bracing

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2623220 No.2623220 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]

How do I inspect these? It’s a ceiling light. The cover appears to be glued to the ceiling but I could be mistaken. Don’t wanna tinker with this until someone knowledgeable here can help me.

>> No.2623221

Probably not glued, just painted around sloppily. Usually the plastic cover clips off, or sometimes the entire log hit fixing pulls down out of the ceiling. Try putting a flat screwdriver at the edge and twisting it to see if it pops off. Look around the edge to see if there’s and indentation anywhere. If there is, try to unclip it at that point.

>> No.2623222

>log hit fixing
Light fixture. Jesus Christ autocorrect.

>> No.2623225

Thanks, I’ll try.
Also, I’m trying to figure out if they are LED. I’ve been trying to gauge it on how much electricity they use by looking at the meter. Is 7-10W per bulb reasonable for a LED?

>> No.2623240

>Is 7-10W per bulb reasonable for a LED?
Yes that is LED.

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2623150 No.2623150 [Reply] [Original] [archived.moe]


Can you help identify what kind of tool opens this window lock?


2 replies omitted. Click Reply to view.
>> No.2623164


Train window. They usually lock because of AC.

>> No.2623166
File: 909 KB, 1824x3648, 00.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Other picture.

>> No.2623178
File: 35 KB, 367x384, _shop.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]


All you have to do is look at it to see what's going on.


>> No.2623260
File: 49 KB, 256x256, 333355431036211.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]

Fuck guys, what is a cheap tool that is suitable to put in a slot and turn it? Im stumped!

>> No.2623655

Don't listen to these faggots OP, /diy/ loves to gate keep and gaslight people who ask simple questions, which this is but if you've never seen this "lock" you wouldn't know how it works. It's like asking how to start a fire, everyone will give you shit for not knowing but nobody is born with that knowledge.
It's not actually a screw, it looks that way to be a weird tamper resitant thing. Say somebody wanted to open the window that shouldn't be opening windows they might try to loosen or tighten it with an obvious tool like a screwdriver or socket/nut driver. They put it on the not screw and it'll just spin. It's actually a spring load pin you need to pull out using a pair of pliers. You should be able to spin it by hand, if you can't somethings wrong with the pin, probably spun too much. Get some vice grips(needle nose variety) and yank on ot as hard as you can. Might seem counternintuitive but
that's how these windows are designed and I hate them because the pin is almost always stuck and you're afraid to put too much force on the window but it can handle the force.

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