Kitchen Knives General - Cutting Board Edition

[Anonymous No.11983831]

General knife thread/asking for cutting board advice. Picked up a Shun Blue Kiritsuke for a really great price as they were discontinued. This is my first properly nice knife and I don't wanna demolish the edge on the crappy boards I have, so it's time to spring for a decent board. Looking at a Boos Block 24x18 Walnut, or a Kiso Hinoki 24x18. Shun recommends hinoki boards--which of course they sell--because it's soft and easy on thin edges, but their boards are too thin and small for me; I'd prefer some decent real estate. The Hinoki board is $240, while I can get the Boos for $176. I'd grab the Boos if I wasn't concerned about it potentially being too hard and rolling my knife edge faster than the hinoki would.

Thoughts? Also what other knives are gud? I really like Kikuichi's damascus gyuto.

[Anonymous No.11983838]

>>11983831
>shun
>kiritsuke
Jesus christ, why
>shun recommends
You're an actual boomer aren't you

[Anonymous No.11983853]

>>11983838
Just trying to learn anon
What knives do you think are decent?

[Anonymous No.11983860]

>>11983853
There are a lot of decent knives. Shun isn't even as bad as people say it is but they're best at general-purpose knives - chef knives and bread knives. Nobody wants a traditional style Japanese knife made (poorly, out of the wrong choice of materials) by Shun. That's probably why they were discontinued.

[Anonymous No.11983868]

I love watching you morons try to promote this shit like its some ephemeral art created from magical time. You're fashion dilettantes who like to hear themselves talk about shit they don't really understand from a technical aspect.

[Anonymous No.11983875]

>>11983868
Oh hey angry drunk luthier guy. You're drunk early today. Ruin any violas yet or is that for later this afternoon?

[Anonymous No.11983892]

>>11983860
Made poorly? The knife seems fine to me, nothing indicates to me the craftsmanship is poor, but perhaps I don't know what I'm looking for in kitchen knives; most of my knife interest comes from high-end folders, so high-end kitchen knives are new to me. What's wrong about the materials? The core is Hitachi blue steel and it's clad in I think VG10 or some derivative stainless. They probably didn't sell well because typically anyone looking to buy a Shun wants something all-stainless that stays pretty rather than a knife that develops any patina or has a risk of developing rust. I don't mind though, I like the patina.

>>11983868
How'd you get all that from me just asking what's a decent board and mentioning what knife I bought? Chill dude not everyone is as autistic about cutlery as you apparently are. If you know so much why not offer it instead of being a prick?

[Anonymous No.11983954]

>>11983892
Well for example why would you use VG10 cladding? Most clad knives would use something like 420 because it's more resilient and you don't care about edge stability when the material isn't going to see an edge, ever.

I can't speak to the kiritsuke in particular but Shun has a history of releasing nonsense knives which are aimed at consumers looking to emulate professionals by adopting their tools without an understanding of how those tools are used. Like their "yanagis" for example. If you gave a standard yanagi to an average home cook they'd probably (a) hate it, and (b) wreck it in about ten seconds. It's not a good kind of knife for 99.999% of cooking. So what Shun does is they adapt it to be less unsuitable for home use, while trying to retain the cosmetic appeal of the original. And what you end up with is something like one of those H2 Hummer abortions from the late 90s. Incapable of doing either the task of the original, or serving the purpose it was purchased for. And then people wonder why Shun gets a bad reputation.

[Anonymous No.11984013]

>>11983954
I'm making a guess about what stainless was used on this particular line; Shun seems to favor VG10 on their Classic line and other VG stainless steels, but the Blue line is advertised as Hitachi blue clad with "stainless steel". There is a good possibility it is 420 stainless or something similarly resilient, I honestly don't know for certain. I figured it'd be VG MAX/10 since that's what they make all their other stainless stuff out of.

The yanagi is strictly a slicing knife for something like sashimi, right? Such a long knife, I doubt anyone would actually buy one, Shun or otherwise unless they were going to use it for the intended purpose of the blade style. A yanagi seems way too long to really work as a chef's knife. I get what you're saying though--in Shun trying to make something traditional more consumer-friendly, it becomes compromised and sucks at both. The H2 was basically a Tahoe underneath masquerading as a military vehicle, but it lacked all the important military features like portal axles, a diesel motor, locking diffs, and ruggedized mechanical design in general.

[Anonymous No.11984030]

>>11984013
>The yanagi is strictly a slicing knife for something like sashimi, right?
Not really. A traditional Japanese chef would use the Yanagi for most things, and the deba for heavier work (i.e. fish or poultry bones). I dunno if you ever watched the old Iron Chef program but you'll see the Japanese chefs using Yanagis just as often as the French guys used a western Chef's knife....which is to say for nearly everything.

There are specialist knives for sashimi, and another one for cutting sushi rolls, those are not the same as a Yanagi.

[Anonymous No.11984058]

>>11984030
Found this, seems to explain the lineup pretty well. You were talking about people wrecking a yanagi, I was thinking it was too delicate a knife for chef's knife stuff. Why would people wreck a yanagi then? Just cutting too forcefully with it? Cutting on the wrong surface?

[Anonymous No.11984160]

>>11983831
Pretty looking knife.
It looks a lot like a dagger for a kitchen knife though.

[Anonymous No.11984188]

>>11984160
The OP pic is the hinoki board I'm contemplating buying, I have no idea what knife that is. The Shun Blue Kiritsuke I mentioned looks like pic related

[Anonymous No.11984199]

>>11983831
take a look at www.theboardsmith.com. High end custom cutting boards, all handmade. Those wil last you the rest of your life. The maker is also on the www.kitchenknifeforums.com.

[Anonymous No.11984249]

In what way does such an expensive board excel vs my €20 rubberwood board?

[Anonymous No.11984262]

>>11984249
Wow anon you're a genius why would anyone buy an expensive thing when obviously your board is superior? OP is a retard for even contemplating spending $200 on a cutting board

[Anonymous No.11984266]

>>11984058
I was not the person talking about people wrecking a Yanagi. I don't think the design is particularly delicate. It has two potential issues:
1) it's a single-bevel knife, which some people have a hard time using or sharpening.
2) the usual problem with all Japanese knives in the hands of idiots: the very hard steel is easy to chip if your knife skills are poor.

[Anonymous No.11984267]

>>11984262
Huh?

[Anonymous No.11984849]

buck 120 and ruike work really good

[Anonymous No.11985608]

>>11984199
Problem with Boardsmith boards is they're made in USA so you're at risk of accidentally supporting a racist religious maniac. Same with Boos in fact.

I'd go for the hinoki if I were you, op

[Anonymous No.11985634]

>>11984249
cutting boards with the endgrain facing up is more gentle on the knife edge so they stay sharp for longer.
It doesn't make much of a difference though unless you're working with a really thin edge on soft foods

[Anonymous No.11985674]

>>11984249
cutting boards with the endgrain facing up is more gentle on the knife edge because the fibers are mostly pushed aside by the edge rather than resist being cut.

[Anonymous No.11985802]

I want to get a legit knife set, is wüsthof good? how much should I pay for them? how much maintenance do they need?

[Anonymous No.11985830]

>>11985674
So the cheap one is actually better? There has to be more to it.. right?

[Anonymous No.11985836]

>>11985802
They're ok but not great. Don't buy a set. Get a good chef knife and any old paring knife. Since you used the weird foreign keyboard I assume you're a yuropoor, I recommend a kaeru gyuto and a robert herder paring knife.

[Anonymous No.11985857]

>>11985836
thx, could you show me a pic or something of which robert herder messer you mean? and how much maintenance do these knifes need?

[Anonymous No.11985893]

>>11985836
>has never heard of autocorrect
>draws huge assumptions from one character
>needs to insert insult to feel better about himself
>doesn't remotely care what the anon may want, immediately orders him ultra specific shit to buy
kek. americans, never change.

[Anonymous No.11985901]

Old Hickory seems like a good cheap set.
carbon steel should easily stay sharp longer than some more expensive stainless steel.
just remember to wipe them dry after use.

[Anonymous No.11985902]

>>11985836
That makes sense. But what's a paring knife, I forgot?

[Anonymous No.11985907]

>>11985893
Wusthof
Didn’t autocòrrèçt for me, also why are you getting mad that someone triêd tö hælp?
Wusthof is pretty damm specific in any case, ever heard of Henckels? Victorinox? Sabatier?

[Anonymous No.11985909]

>>11985901
Do you really want "Old Hickory" written into your knives, though? Something about it seems lewd.

[Anonymous No.11985920]

>>11985901
No. I have some Old Hickory
The only thing going for them is you can basically sharpen them on a mug
Edge retention is terrible
They’re cheap for a reason

[Anonymous No.11986220]

>>11985608
>they're made in USA so you're at risk of accidentally supporting a racist religious maniac
>implying this isn't an additional selling point

>>11985802
I've got a 6" Wustoff Ikon Chef's knife my father got me some time ago. It's a decent knife, but I think the 8" would be better. 6" is a bit short for a chef's knife, and the balance is a little handle-heavy; the 8" has much better balance. Don't waste your money on a set, you'll just end up with a bunch of knives you'll never use. The three essential knives in a kitchen are a chef's knife, a paring knife, and a serrated bread knife--those three knives can do 95% of the work you'd do in a home kitchen. Buy additional knives as you try new dishes that might require specialty blades.

Since the Wustoff knives are made of stainless steel, their only maintenance would be washing and drying them off before storing them in a block. Hone with a steel on an as-needed basis to correct a rolled edge, and maybe once or twice a year have them sharpened.

[Anonymous No.11986247]

just shut up save yourself a boatload of money and get victorinox chefs knives

[Anonymous No.11986375]

>>11985857
Something like pic related, though they make a rostfrei version as well. The kaeru being the larger one will have more severe consequences if you were to neglect it, but it's stainless clad with SLD core, so it should be both easy to sharpen and have a good solid edge retention. But it's still a traditional handle so while it's not super high maintenance you need to treat it with the same care you'd treat any other nice thing
>>11986220
>having them sharpened
If you can't maintain your stuff don't bother with anything nicer than a serrated ikea knife

[Anonymous No.11986464]

>>11986375
I figure he's just starting out, knife sharpening is a different rabbit hole entirely. Most faggots will buy some pull-through garbage and trash their knives, or remove way too much metal to get a decent edge.

[Anonymous No.11986523]

>>11986464
Yeah I'm gonna have to disagree, you people act like "removing metal" is going to make the knife gods stab you with lightning bolts, the fact is that is how you sharpen a knife. "Too much metal to get a decent edge"? What does that even mean?

If you're afraid of your knives, and some people are, just get a Chef's Choice and a $15 Dexter-Russell and be done with it. Having someone else sharpen your knives is embarrassing.

[Anonymous No.11986596]

>>11986375
the one I found is 12 euro, is that right?

[Anonymous No.11986607]

>>11986596
Sounds about right. No need to put a lot of money into the paring knife. Save that for the main knife and your sharpening gear.

[Anonymous No.11986749]

>>11983831
What kind of knife should I use to remove the rind from pork belly? I do it after it cooks a bit, but I'd prefer to get it out of the way at the beginning.

[Anonymous No.11986871]

So my fucking bitch ass, fat fuck loser cunt roommate has been using my Shun that has genuine sentimental value to me and mistreats it to the point that I have to hide it from her.

The burrs make me want to throw up. Where do I go from here? Get into all the whetstone stuff?

[Anonymous No.11986899]

>>11986871
>not getting into whetstones when you first get a decent knife, or sooner
how did you get by with shitty no edge holding knives? just use em dull?

[Anonymous No.11986900]

>>11986871
post her pics

[Anonymous No.11986902]

>>11983853
honestly, with bang per buck in mind, any random knife from the restaurant supply store that feels good in your hand

[Anonymous No.11986905]

>>11986899
People who buy Shuns usually fall for the "free sharpening for life" meme, same with all the other filthy casual brands

[Anonymous No.11986956]

>>11986871
Tell her she isn't allowed to use it anymore because she's being abusive to it, and store it in it's own sheath or block in your room so she can't passive-aggressively use it behind your back. If she wants to cook, she can get her own goddamn knives. Fuck freeloaders.

[Anonymous No.11986973]

>>11986375
I bought a K5 a while back because I figured I could use a smaller chef knife. It's nice, but I don't see they hype on the edge. Quite a bit of resistance on potatoes. I did a little regrind and it's smoother now, but still takes more pressure or push-pull than I like to have to use. I haven't gotten around to attempting another more acute grind.

[Anonymous No.11987004]

>>11986899
It was a gift a couple years ago. I hone it and keep it average level of sharpness, but then I find that cunt using it to cut pizza while it's still on the metal pan.

Also a few months ago I put a note on its sheath once that said "please respect, Anon's knife. Hone, clean and put away" some fucker took off the note. People really don't respect other people's shit.

[Anonymous No.11987052]

>>11986973
I don’t like Herder for chef knives. Way too expensive for what they are. But for paring it’s a cut above generic and still pretty cheap compared to a “nice” paring knife

[Anonymous No.11987183]

>>11987004
Why would you keep something that you want to keep for yourself in the shared area?

[Anonymous No.11987311]

>2 more weeks

[Anonymous No.11987342]

>>11987052
>paring knife
AHAHAH you use tiny knife for tiny mouth!

only a glorious CLEAVER should be allowed in kitchen!

[Anonymous No.11987403]

>>11987311
I don't know which one of you morons posted about kiwi knives but I bought one and now I have a couple and LOVE them. Great shapes and are cheap so I don't have to baby them. I use them all the time when I don't want to use my nicer knives.

[Anonymous No.11987778]

>>11986523
there are people that actually grind down their knives halfway through in just a year

[Anonymous No.11988042]

>>11987778
Jesus Christ why

[Anonymous No.11988143]

>>11986749
just pull it off

[Anonymous No.11988167]

>>11983831
>>11984249
Whats the point of needlessly thick cutting boards like this?

[Anonymous No.11988168]

>>11988167
raised cutting surface is helpful if you're standing at a board all day

however 99% of people on /ck/ have never worked a shift in a kitchen so I think it's just for the feel of it

[Anonymous No.11988169]

>>11988167
>needlessly
Raises the cutting surface, resists warping better, can withstand a little more punishment if needed, substantial weight helps keep the board from sliding.

[Anonymous No.11988393]

>>11985608
>so you're at risk of accidentally supporting a racist
you mean he will keep niggers and beaners out? Where do I send the money, I dont even need the board

[Anonymous No.11988404]

>>11986871
>Get into all the whetstone stuff?
A 1000/6000 grit combo stone is all you need, ideally a large 8'' stone not the standard 6'' for a kitchen knife. For rough work glue some 400 grit sandpaper to a piece of timber, much cheaper than getting a dedicated stone for a grit you my need only once over the lifetime of your knife.

[Anonymous No.11988405]

>>11987778
You mean professional butchers who cut meat for 8 hours a day? News flash: if you use a knife it shows sign of use. That's why they buy those $15 plastic handle knives because they go through them so fast.

There's no reason to tell a home cook to avoid removing metal, because they're never going to reach that point, and even if they do, that's still better than having a dull knife.

But I suppose you'd rather they have a dull knife.

[Anonymous No.11988410]

>>11988393
Every time one of you MAGAturds kills one of us, I send money to HIAS.
>>11988404
Combi stones are never good.

[Anonymous No.11988417]

>>11988167
>>11988169
Plus if the surface gets too fucked up after half a lifetime of use you can run it through a planer and have a brand new cutting board again if your board is thick enough.

[Anonymous No.11988427]

>>11988410
>Combi stones are never good
they are 100% good enough for the average home cook with his Wüsthof knife. And why shouldnt they, the abrasives and the binders are just the same as in the separate stones made by the same company. I sharpen my knives on oiled sandpaper for fun sometimes, even though I have a dozen stones.

[Anonymous No.11988441]

>>11987403
I have the nakiri and the big bunka style knife, I would have thought both of those shapes would be too similar to that dozen santokus you already have. Btw as a luthier I assume you have your own workshop. Do you own a belt sander? have you ever tried thinning those santokus? That massively increases the performance, give it a try sometimes.

[Anonymous No.11988455]

>>11988427
> And why shouldnt they, the abrasives and the binders are just the same as in the separate stones made by the same company.
Yeah and you don't treat those separate stones identically, so why would you make a special stone that requires you to treat two objects bound together with a different set of rules? It's fairly common to see a stone that comes with a warning to only soak one side and soaking the other side can damage it. Rough stones aren't that expensive, and they need to be replaced more often. Combi stones are the "free sharpening for life" of sharpening gear, it sounds like a great idea until you actually try to use it and then you realize why the normal way is, in fact, the normal way.

[Anonymous No.11988464]

>>11988455
t. doesn't sharpen his knives on a daily basis after doing 400pax the night before

the old way and gook traditionalism can suck my dick. stop idolising a post-nuke society

[Anonymous No.11988466]

>>11988464
Imagine being so racist you think Japanese people invented sharpening stones in 1945 and you refuse to use them as a result

[Anonymous No.11988470]

>>11988466
would you rather use a stone manufactured in 1945 or a double sided stone made in 2019?

[Anonymous No.11988473]

>>11988167
My previous one was a simple thin one. It warped within two months, and a month later it got a tiny crack between two pieces of wood, which grew bigger. I tried fixing it three times, but then I really had to throw it away.
If you want thin, don't go for wood.

[Anonymous No.11988476]

>>11988473
Even if you got a big wooden one arent you then forced to use thin plastic ones for meats and such for hygiene?

[Anonymous No.11988482]

>>11988470
I'd rather not structure my life around nonsensical dilemmas invented for purposes of pushing a 4chan argument, and in fact that is what I do. My oldest stone was manufactured in the precambrian period. Enjoy your crippling fear of foreigners.

[Anonymous No.11988486]

>>11988482
>I'd rather not structure my life around nonsensical dilemmas

>2 sided stone bad!!!!!!!

also nice brag, grats on paying hundreds of dollars for a rock

[Anonymous No.11988497]

>>11988486
Is that Jamaican dollars? Imagine being culturally intimidated by a rock.

[Anonymous No.11988524]

>>11988476
Some flip sides for either meat or veggies. I use cutting covers for meat or fish. Cutting meats isn't the hard work, so I don't really mind the plastic, and they're easy to clean.

[Anonymous No.11988525]

>>11988476
For home use? Nah. A thorough wash with Dawn and warm water should wash away any pathogens. If the board develops an unpleasant odor, treat it with watered-down bleach then wash, followed with oiling once it's dry. Can always use a thin plastic cutting mat on top just for meat if you're worried about sanitary issues. Plus you can plane wood boards when they finally get gouged up to expose a fresh cutting surface. Can't do that with a thin plastic board.

[Anonymous No.11989260]

>>11988441
How do you know he’s a
>weird random hostility
Oh, yeah. Luthier confirmed

[Anonymous No.11989283]

>>11983831
i got a 400 dollar zwilling knife a week ago and a 55 dollar victorinox from amazon. honestly the victorinox may be sharper out of the box. was kinda disappointed in the 400 dollar zwilling.

[Anonymous No.11989309]

>>11989283
Factory edge means nothing.
Give us your comments after you've used both knives for a year and have some thoughts on which needs more frequent maintenance, which sharpens easier, etc.

[Anonymous No.11989313]

>>11989309
this

[Anonymous No.11989442]

>>11989283
This is why casuals shouldn’t be allowed to have nice things

Oi you got a loicence for that thing?

[Anonymous No.11990607]

>>11986902
>i dont know shit about knives
FTFY

[Anonymous No.11991333]

>>11983831
A while back, someone recommended an eBay seller that sold Japanese knives that were alledegly handmade for relatvelly affordable prices. Does anyome know who this seller is?

[Anonymous No.11991334]

I’ve been a professional cook for a while now. I’ve had a knife guy, but he’s moving. So, I’m gonna be stuck sharpening my own knives. Any tips for getting stones and holding an angle on them?

[Anonymous No.11991609]

>>11991334
get some cheap double sided waterstone and a coarse diamond plate for heavy grinding and flattening stones.

[Anonymous No.11991639]

>>11991333
Define "affordable". Bluewayjapan and metalmasterjp are fairly well known and not crazy expensive, but they're not really catering to the ikea crowd either.

>>11991334
Single sided, invest in quality. Get a GOOD coarse stone, 500 grit, and set your angle. Get a GOOD medium grit, 1k-1.5k. If you're a novice, keeping them roughly the same size and the same product line will make it easier to learn the right muscle memory for everything. People seem to love splash-n-go but IMO for a beginner you want a mudstone that produces good feedback.

Do not bother with anything higher than 2k until you can consistently pass the standing paper test on your medium grit stones.

[Anonymous No.11991708]

>>11983831
This Cutting Board lost its virginity a few hours ago.
And its time to cut some finished meat on it
BTW, this leg feels no pain.

[Anonymous No.11991891]

>>11991708
better removing the small knife next time !

[Anonymous No.11992498]

Thoughts on this Kikuichi Gyuto/Kikuichi as a brand in general? $300 seems to be the MAP price, but I found a wholesale site that lists them at $150. I wonder if I could find a better price than $300 by negotiating a bit.

[Anonymous No.11992509]

>>11991334
Coat the edge - just the edge - in permanent marker, then take a few practice strokes on the stone to make sure you're getting the right angle.

[Anonymous No.11992519]

>$250 on a board

Lol

[Anonymous No.11992538]

>>11992519
>being poor

Lol

[Anonymous No.11992619]

>>11992519
>$250 is a lot to spend
Not on something that ought to last generations. Get your priorities straight and spend where it counts.

[Anonymous No.11992644]

>>11992619
That honestly doesn't look appealing at all. It would barely be big enough to filet a salmon or clean a beef tenderloin, and any juices are just going to end up on the floor (or in that retarded knife holder), which would be fine in a restaurant setting, but a headache at home. I'd rather just have an over-sized board on a counter/island.

[Anonymous No.11992676]

>>11992644
It's 2 feet across. Plenty for most salmon and beef tenderloin, though for very large ones, you will have to go diagonal until a little more broken down, though you do not need a full butcher block for that sort of prep. That is what a larger poly board on my counter is for. The butcher block is for when heavy processing is required. If a single filet or tenderloin is your greatest concern, a cheap poly board is fine, but you're limiting yourself if that is all you aspire toward. The knife holder is perfect for a few butcher knives that I would prefer not taking up 1/3 of my rack on their own.

[Anonymous No.11992694]

>>11992676
>you're limiting yourself if that is all you aspire toward
That's not what I was saying. Rather that those are two obvious things that that would be a little awkward on. What bigger things do you use that for? It's not like you're breaking down an entire fucking lamb on one of those, or even any beef primal cuts. I love that style of knife holder right in the counter next to the board for butchery, but unless you can remove it to deep clean it seems impractical.

[Anonymous No.11992711]

>>11992694
First things first: clean your knives before you put them away ffs. After that, yes, a thorough cleaning periodically is always a good thing. I typically do so after each large prep session. As far as typical use, reducing racks, pounding cutlets, processing poultry, reducing bones and joints, cracking shells, and primal cuts for most animals. I also tend to use it as a secondary surface because it rolls around easy. I just put a poly board or baking sheet on top if it at times, or use it to roll in a heavy piece of equipment or large pot of whatever. How large is your cutting board, I wonder. Care to show a picture?

[Anonymous No.11992725]

>>11992711
>I just put a poly board or baking sheet on top if it at times
I assume you meant , "a poly board and baking sheet", which kind of defeats the purpose (unless you just meant you use it to put a hot sheet pan on as extra counter space). Might as well just buy a $50 island at that point.
>>11992711
>how large is your cutting board
I'm industry, but don't have anything nice at home (at least as far as cutting boards), which is why I always come to these threads. Not trying to shitpost or troll, just always on the lookout for nice things for at home to invest in and don't really see one of those Boos islands being practical. I mean, it seems like more of a showpiece if anything; even if you use it in a butcher shop, but a belt sander to it and refinish the surface once a month that thing will last generations.

[Anonymous No.11992828]

What fillet knives for fish are recommended? I moved so damn much in the past few years that I currently cannot find my normal one so I may end up needing to buy a new one.

[Anonymous No.11992879]

>>11988525
>A thorough wash with Dawn and warm water should wash away any pathogens
And if you life in some place where it is sunny put yourr cutting board out in the sun for day. The UV rays will absolutely kill the shit out of any bacteria. Even discolorations are gone afterwards because everything that was not not pure plastic got wrecked by the gigantic fusion reactor in the sky.

[Anonymous No.11992892]

>>11992509
Lots of factory angles are garbage and way too obtuse, and they vary in angle of the length of the edge. With cheaper knives it is usually preferable to give a damn about the factory bevel and put on you own right from the start.

[Anonymous No.11993030]

>>11992892
Yeah nah, the reason cheap knives are beveled like an axe head is that the metal is too weak to hold a real edge. If you're buying knives that came with an edge like that, the solution is to buy a better knife in the future rather than second-guessing the choices made by the manufacturer.

[Anonymous No.11993105]

>>11993030
I have whole bunch of real crap knives in my collection (from when I practiced thinning on my belt sander) and they hold an edge at a reasonable angle (~20°) quite well if you dont mistreat them and run them a few strokes over a polished steel once oor twice every hour or so.

[Anonymous No.11993385]

>>11992725
I am not asking you to show a nice board, just a large one. Here's the deal. Your boards at work aren't much larger than that surface, if at all. If you aren't trying to shitpost, then show a cheap large board, since you seem to need it and are speaking out of your extensive experience or something. Everything you have said has been troll tier BS. Put up or shut up.

[Anonymous No.11993392]

>>11993385
Nigger it's not like you need to justify your nice butcher cart to him, he's probably a poor working as a line cook anyways

[Anonymous No.11994868]

>

[Anonymous No.11994894]

>>11993105
20 per side or 20 total?

[Anonymous No.11995635]

>>11994894
Pretty sure he means 20 per side. There's no way cheap blades are holding 10 degrees per side for long.

[Anonymous No.11995739]

>>11995635
>he means 20 per side.
In that case see >>11993030
>the reason cheap knives are beveled like an axe head

[Anonymous No.11995806]

>>11995739
What? I'm not defending the poorfaggot knives though, I know exactly why cheap cutlery has obtuse angles. And they won't hold acute angles for long, if at all.

[Anonymous No.11996658]

Glass is the superior board type. No room for microbes, easy as fk to clean and lets the whole house know your busy prepping food.

Additionally can look nice as decoration is its got a pic on it...

[Anonymous No.11996682]

>>11996658
A /ck/ish mod would ban you

[Anonymous No.11997014]

>>11995739
You would be surprised how well those "axe bevels" cut once a knife has been properly thinned. Very acute angles on knives are often just a poor replacement for proper geometry, a kind of poor man's thinning. Even with my more expensive Japanese knives I wouldnt go any lower. Totally unnecessary IMHO.

[Anonymous No.11997516]

>>11996658
I know this is bait but fuck you anyway nigger

[Anonymous No.11997541]

I'm terrible with a Whetstone and have heard the pull through devices take off way too much material. Is it worth taking my knives somewhere to be sharpened provided it's not super expensive?

[Anonymous No.11997552]

>>11992619
>that ought to last generations
And why would I need that?

[Anonymous No.11997557]

>>11997541
>Is it worth taking my knives somewhere to be sharpened provided it's not super expensive?
Bay the Riuxin Pro set, 1x 5000Anself lether and 3µm diamond paste

[Anonymous No.11997942]

>>11997014
It looks like you don’t understand why your so-called “proper geometry” is not chosen by manufacturers of cheap knives. It’s got nothing to do with what you think.

[Anonymous No.11998634]

>>11987778
>>11991708
>>11996658
Cursed images

[Anonymous No.11998905]

>>11998634
>1st fine
>2nd Based
>3rd Bate

[Anonymous No.12000399]

>>11989442
im sorry youre poor.