/ck/ - Food & Cooking

sand it all off

>sand vigorously
>oil liberally
Wa la

>>19537106
That thing is trash

>>19537139
How can you tell?

>>19537116
How fine a grit at the end?

If I go through the work of sanding I don't want to realize the glue or whatever holding the blocks together is bad or it's splitting somewhere. Hate to do all that work for nothing.

>>19537174
Bro it's a 2 inch thick end grain cutting board. I'd absolutely love to have one of those to salvage. You just remove material from the top and then sand it smooth again. You could remove an inch and it should still be usable (don't, though, you should only need to remove like 1/16"). Start very coarse, then go incrementally smoother until it's acceptably smooth.

>>19537247
Thanks for identifying grain cutting. Just looked up what that means. Wood is stood vertically then cut and glued. Is that really a good manufacturing technique though? What if the glue is bad after all these years? What was the point to make it 2 inches thick? Just so heavy to move around. But I guess that means it will move on it's own less.

It would seem like one single piece of wood would be better than a bunch of different types of wood glued together? I dunno.

>>19537301
why do you think as a person who just learned the term you know better than the person who crafted the cutting board?
yes its a good technique and with care theyll last forever.
>so heavy to move around
stop fucking whining good lord

If you're US and don't want it I'll take it off your hands for shipping cost

>>19537106
it's fine. just sand it off and apply some kind of seasoning like oil

>>19537349
this. OP you don't deserve such a nice board. Give it away to someone who's going to enjoy it and go buy a cheap plastic one at the dollar store.

>>19537356
This, it's looks high quality.
>>19537106
If the glue was bad it would have slowly disjointed already if it truely is 40 yo.

>>19537106
>>19537174
>>19537181
>>19537301
Wow your learned helplessness must really be poorly impacting your life.

ideally you’d want to send it through a drum sander, but I’m gonna go out on a limb and say you don’t have access to one. Next best is to use an orbital sander. Start with 60-80 grit to knock it down to fresh wood and get the scratches out. Being careful to sand it evenly to avoid lumps and low/high spots, it’s gonna have some so don’t worry. Then move onto 120 making sure to sand enough to eliminate the 80 grit swirl marks. Then move to 180 grit doing the same with the 120 marks. From the 180 move to 220 and then 320 if you want it to be really smooth but 220 will suffice if you’re not picky. Then give it a good soaking of butcher block oil/beeswax. Or just use mineral oil. Post update when done I’m interested in how it turns out.

Be generous with the oil when applying, you can’t over do it. Let it soak over night reapplying as needed when you see that the wood has pulled most of it in. End grain boards are thirsty and it’s ok to be generous.

>>19537301
They're made thick because they often see heavy use (getting hit by cleavers, etc). If they were too thin, they'd split. The extra thickness also makes the board serviceable, as there's plenty of excess material to relive to resurface and continue using the board for decades. The glue won't fail on a well-taken-care of, well-made board, but it's possible it will fail on a board left to go through excessive moisture and temperature cycles, causing the wood to expand and contract, which can slowly work cracks through it. From your photos, it looks like it's holding together perfectly well, aside from maybe a few spots on the very edge. Hard to tell for sure from the photo.

Just to clarify things for you, there's probably someone who would purchase that board from you for $100 if there aren't any more obvious problems in person. Thick end grain cutting boards are expensive and sought after.

Since you clearly have no idea what you're doing, sand the board down from ultra coarse until all the scratches are gone, down to as fine as necessary to get it smooth. You'll want to do it outdoors, with a mask and a machine, not by hand. Try your best to keep it flat.

Once that's done, clean it off with water, alcohol, and / or vinegar, and let it dry completely. Buy a gallon of mineral oil and a bag of beeswax pellets. (The beeswax is actually optional, but makes it much easier to work with and makes for a little longer lasting coating). Melt together approximately 1 part beeswax to 4 parts mineral oil by mass (don't use everything you bought at once). Slather a thick coating of the beeswax / mineral oil mixture on the board, and let it sit and absorb, spreading it around and reapplying to any places that have sucked up everything on top of them. For a bone dry board, oiling it for the first time might take around 4 applications over 24 hours until no more will absorb.

>>19537398
(Continued)

Keep a wide 8-16oz jar of the board wax in your kitchen, and at least whenever you see a "dry" or "full" spot on the board, and ideally weekly or after every use, apply a thin layer of the board wax to the board to absorb overnight to touch up the finish. If you wet your hand and scatter droplets on the board, you should see that they don't absorb rapidly, instead beading up.

>>19537349
I am not saying I do, I just wanted to reiterate its very old and hasn't been oiled maybe ever and neglected sitting for 20 years.

I just don't want to do a crapload of work then realize it's genuinely fucked up because of lack of care. But now that I know it's salvageable, I will do more research to see if I can get it into better shape.

I mean, one guy in the first part of the thread said it was junk.

>>19537139
>t.woodlet

>>19537410
Wow. You sound like you know what you are talking about. Thanks. I'd never expect someone to really go through those lengths just for something they cut food on. Quite a project. I have an orbital sander so could give it a try. Now I know why modern chefs have either moved on to superior materials or kept the old ones maintained so they rarely have to condition it. I really didn't think it had value. Was gonna use it in the next bonfire but now will do a little more research and start the project.

>>19537310
all that matters is if it's end grain or edge grain
that board is end grain and what you want

Here's another picture of it mostly dry.

Just wish it has a drip thing around the perimeter like some new thin ones. I remember cutting meat on it in the mid 90s when I was a kid and it dripped everywhere.

>>19537106
for something that big you need a belt sander. those cuts are super deep and you don't want to do the job half-ass.

Any idea what these two holes are on the front of the board? A handle at one time?

>>19537511
Most likely

>>19537301
>Wood is stood vertically then cut and glued. Is that really a good manufacturing technique though?
No, it's a scam to upsell glued together leftover woodchips to gullible people.
Get a solid slab of wood instead.

>>19537665
From what I read just in the last few minutes is standing it up vertically the way the wood grows is better for keeping your knife sharper.

I mean, it's old like 1980 or so old, and it was always around the home when I was younger and if it's just been used and just needs some work I shouldn't toss it. If it was old tech and there was something greatly superior made with new materials the last 40 years I could see myself parting with it. I am getting a feeling like if I really wanted to clean it up, it would look really nice possibly.

>>19537699
The solid slabs are usually made from a softer wood, like pine, which is what you really want to not blunt your knives immediately.
Also, your board is lost mate, that wood probably has the texture of concrete by now.
The money you need to invest in 'restoring' it should go to a proper board instead.

>>19537745
>texture of concrete
But does it actually get to a point where it's been bone dry for so long even with sanding and oiling it can't even be kinda ok?

Some day I want to get one of these, or a similar custom one. Fewer, large chunks of wood. Clean brick pattern with no 4 way intersections. Simple and elegant. Also $450.

>>19537761
Ignore this moron.
>>19537665
>>19537745
Practically, end grain boards are the best option for a natural material board - wood is a moderately good mechanical antibaterial material in all cases, but particularly end grain wood. In your case, I suspect the hardness of the wood is almost irrelevant - do you fanatically maintain the edge on your knives? If not, the tradeoff between wood hardness and knife sharpness boils down to which you're more willing to maintain. If you have a relatively soft board then you have to do this more often:
>>19537398
>>19537410
If you have a relatively hard board, you have to sharpen your knives more often. An end grain board will absorb a lot of oil if it has been allowed to thoroughly dry out, but as long as it is allowed to take up oil evenly, I think it's borderline impossible for the wood to become 'lost' (and it would never have the texture of concrete, because that implies it would be significantly uneaven in hardness)

>>19537767
That board is either:
photoshopped
stained with a stencil to give the impression of more pieces
made by an incredily finickety woodworker with autism

I love it

>>19537799
Actually, I take the first one back, and half of the second one. I've just figured out how it was made, and that takes A U T I S M to decide to do, so 10/10 woodworking there.

>>19537807
>>19537799
The pic was from https://theboardsmith.com/products/maple-end-grain-cutting-board?variant=34751092981910

They're a pretty well known maker, I assume they glued each row in a jig, keeping track of the order of pieces used to maintain the pattern, then glued the offset rows together with basic clamping to get the final brick pattern. But idk, I'm not a woodworker.

>>19537793
Alright. Thanks. Nah, I am not fanatical about knife sharpness I still sometimes use knives from the same original set that have never been sharpened in 40 years.

>>19537815
> never been sharpened in 40 years.
What the fuck, anon?

>>19537825
the grain of the board sharpens the knife.

>>19537825
I don't use then much. I had a ceramic yoshi blade for about 13 years and that broke around a year ago and I got a new all around chefs knife carbon steel from Costco that works well.

No, thinking way back when... My family never sharpened our knives. If they kept cutting, they stayed. Some were tossed in years past. Either the wood handles rotted away or got too dull I guess.

>>19537839
I will be amazed if nobody in your family took a trip to the ER due to a knife accident.

>>19537839
I just buy 4 packs of knives from the dollar store and throw them away when they get dull. A quarter a knife is nothing.

>>19537106
Save yourself the trouble and buy a plastic board. Wood cutting boards are a meme. Every wood board I've ever owned has started getting those cracks you see on your board. Eventually it will split in half and be unusable.
>b-but you're supposed to season it with oil
Do I have time to fucking "season" my cutting board every time I need to cut an onion? Fuck that. They are more work than cast iron.

>>19537847
No, but when my father was alive and I was very young he crushed his big toe on the outside grill. Lost his nail. My family died in the valujet 592 disaster and I got the house. I was still 13 but was permitted to stay in the home with checkups and take care of our cattle. So my kitchen situation is mostly old stuff that is never used and a few newer things I use all the time. This block was taking up counter space that held fruit and stuff and when my plastic one broke, I looked at this again. So here I am.

>>19537871
You're forty and you've never sharpened your knives since you were 13?

>>19537898
I've never sharpened knives at all really... They still work. I know it's unusual but they don't really ever get dull sorta. It just was never done in my family and I guess I never had a need to because my main one always either broke or disappeared etc.

>>19537940
They are dull, you just don't understand what it is like to cut with a sharp knife.

This is not some magic of Japanese knives, for instance: https://youtu.be/GTHD2J2za6Y it's just a (relatively thin, I think) blade sharpened to probably around 10-15 degrees (20-30 degrees included). That's what it's like ALL THE TIME when you sharpen your knives.

>>19537940
This is what people say who've never used a sharp knife. Slice a tomato & post it

>>19538005
Oh when I got my new costco blade I noticed right away. Though cutting a tomato was still a pain with the new knife.

>>19538014
Yeah, exactly. If you look in the archive you can probably find my post in the past asking what I was doing wrong still not able to cut a tomato well with a brand new carbon steel knife.

I eventually came to the conclusion that it really isn't about how sharp the knife is. What you gotta do is puncture the tomato with the tip of the blade then push the blade in and up and then down essentially tearing the skin along with cutting it.

I was excited getting my new carbon steel blade but when I tried to cut a tomato I just crushed it alot. It really works to puncture and tear because you can push down on a tomato and saw for a long time before the skin gives all while crushing the tomato some during that time.

>>19538061
It probably just doesn't have a great edge. Reprofile it to 12 degrees per side, and it'll cut a tomato trivially easily with only a gentle stroke of the knife. Your right that you don't want to just press straight into it with a chopping motion, but with a sharp knife, a normal cutting stroke will do.

Keep in mind that many factories put very obtuse angles on their knives when they sell them.

>>19538072
>reprofile
Hmm. That may be difficult. First, I don't have any sharpeners and also the side of the blade is highly decorated to the tip. Maybe if I was very experienced I could do that but it works better than my old ceramic yoshi blade which supposedly never needed to be sharpened.

>>19537106
i'd sand and smooth out the top, soak in water for a day, let dry for a day, add linseed oil, let dry for another day and keep it for the rest of my life. looks like a solid butcher block just needs a retouch and seal

>>19538368
Decorated to the tip? All kitchen knives are meant to be sharpened, they'll all eventually we down from the edge towards the spine. Reprofiling the edge just means changing it's angle, which, depending on the starting and ending angle, could impact anywhere from the 1/16 to 1/4 of an inch around the edge.

Take a photo of the blade and post it. I have no idea what you're talking about. Is it a pattern welded aka Damascus blade?

>>19538393
>>19538368
And when I say "impact" I don't mean "remove". Think of the existing apex of the edge as a fixed point. When you lower the angle, you're essentially aiming to leave that point untouched, but make it pointier by removing metal on either side, which will leave a wider shiny metal strip visible along the side of the knife.

Technically you'll probably have to remove a little metal from the tip too, just because you can't ever sharpen 100% perfectly, but it'll be very little.

Here is the chefs knife. I remember it said it was pre sharpened and had a non stick coating on the side that was decorated and a whole list of cleaners you can't use and what you can and cant do with it because of the decorated side.

I am very careful with it and rinse/dry it off by hand every time I use it.

>>19538463
Jesus Christ anon, is this whole thread some high level bait, or is this your real life?

Run it through a dishwasher, sand it, oil it.

>>19538623
? I didn't say it was a 1000 dollar super duper folded 5k times Japanese knife. It's just a mid range costco knife that I assume was curated and had fairly good reviews. Still better than what I had before.

>>19538463
>>19538623
>>19538670
Reverse image search: no results

Okay, I've taken a minute to process this. It's not the knife I would have recommended for you for many reasons, but that's fine. As long as you keep it sharp, it should do you fine, certainly enough to get you started.

For future reference, if you want a basic stainless steel knife that's consistently good (but not "great") and still affordable, I'd recommend the Victorinox Fibrox. I've used mine for almost a decade now (purchased in August 2014). I learned to cook with it, learned to sharpen with it, it's scratched up (some of which I've intentionally scribed onto the blade to make sharpening with a jig easier), I've since learned a lot about knives steels and have the budget for much more expensive, higher quality, knives, but to this day it's still my daily driver.

Anyway. Generally "carbon steel" in knife steel parlance refers to "high carbon / non-stainless steel". Your knife says "stainless steel", so it's probably not actually what most people would call "carbon steel" (though, of course, technically stainless steel still usually contains carbon). This means it won't have the greater edge retention properties of carbon steel knives, but that's fine, it also shouldn't have the huge vulnerability to corrosion that all traditional carbon steel alloys have. In my opinion stainless steel knives are more practical, especially for someone like you who isn't an expert in knives and their care.

The basics of knife care, which should apply to this knife as well as any other stainless steel knife, are basically three: keep it sharp, clean it with soap and water, and dry it. Not rocket science. Stainless steel knives are extremely forgiving, but it's still possible to get corrosion if you leave the knife sitting wet for prolonged periods, particularly with acids like lemon juice.

(Continued)

>>19538715
Second, that knife clearly already needs to be sharpened. There's a significant chip visible on the edge under the "D", to the right of where the dark band hits the edge. If you successfully get the end grain cutting board restored, that should help you avoid chipping, as should good knife technique. Excessive chipping is usually a sign of too aggressive of an edge, or a poor heat treatment on the steel. The same is true of excessive "rolling" of the edge. In an ideal world, neither happens - the edge holds fast and is instead worn away abrasively. Aiming for this balance of hardness and toughness to the application and blade geometry, while trying to maximize both, is the primary goal of fancy knife steels.

The main thing I want to communicate is that you absolutely must find a way to regularly sharpen or have sharpened your knives if you want them to remain useful and you want to be able to cook with them fluently. Even if you bought a $1000 "super steel" knife, you'd still need to regularly sharpen it to keep it performing well - it would just stay sharp longer and would be able to tolerate a pointy-er edge (smaller sharpening angle) without chipping or rolling. And if you pit your cheapo Costco knife, just sharpened, and sharpened well, against a super steel Japanese knife that had been used regularly but not sharpened in a year, your knife would perform radically better.

I haven't used this product, but it's in the style of more expensive knife sharpeners that I'd vouch for, and it shouldn't require the same learning curve as manually using sharpening stones. https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/benchtop/manual/precision-adjust-knife-sharpener/

In the attached pic, you can see that I've scribed a rectangle onto the side of my well-used victorinox fibrox, which allows me to line it up in this sort of jig extremely reliably. This makes touching up the edge very, very fast.

>>19537472
it's really not that much work to rub oil around on a board and let it sit
nor is it a lot of work to sand it down once after 20 years of neglect
you pussy faggot
i just bought a brand new one of these for over $200

>>19537493
if you're gonna go through the trouble of sanding it you could make your own drip divet with an angle of coarse around the edges

>>19537301
Fuck you're a faggot! Just throw it away pussy!

>>19538463
I just want to say again, there's probably nothing wrong with that knife. KAI is generally reputable. I just thought it was funny because I was imagining a carbon steel knife, maybe with fake laser etched damascus pattern on it, but it ended up being a stainless knife with a weird printed coating on it. You just need to keep it sharp and it'll be fine.

Children must consent

>>19537745
Solid slabs of end-grain hardwood are based. My dad used to make them from redgum firewood by chainsawing off the last couple of inches of a trunk piece, then removing the bark and sanding it down.

Good for using a cleaver on. You could hit the best ones with an actual axe and not split them.

>>19539036
I sincerely f

>>19538061
>I eventually came to the conclusion that it really isn't about how sharp the knife is. What you gotta do is puncture the tomato with the tip of the blade then push the blade in and up and then down essentially tearing the skin along with cutting it.
if your blade isn't piercing tomato skin immediately, its not sharp, sorry OP. Most knives, especially cheap ones from costco, do not come sharp out of the box.
I really wanted to believe you weren't retarded but >>19537378 is right

>>19538463
here's your 'mid range' knife
https://www.amazon.com/Pure-Komachi-HD-Stainless-Matching/dp/B015P44BVY
>$12
your knife costs less than a gourmet hamburger.

>>19537181
I like wood cutting boards but that's a stupid design. Just buy a new one, they aren't that expensive.

>>19539695
uck kids?

>>19538963
Your statement gave me an aneurysm

4chan really is such bs. People who troll saying shit like you gotta have a 100 dollar knife and sharpen it every day. Totally unrealistic and retarded. You can be 95% just as effective with the cheapest Walmart knife and use it for 20 years and still be fine. This isn't a cooking forum, it's a trolling forum.

>>19538963
Nah fuck this, first of all I doubt anon has the tools, and the divet gets shit stuck in it, makes sweeping off the board cleanly hard. Any arbitrary amount of juice you want to save isn't worth it, you shouldn't be losing that much juice anyways.

>>19540801
It's just people being reddit, I have a $10 kiwi knife and use it all the time. I sharpen it with a shitty grip sharpener because it's $10. It all depends on what you cook, if you don't need fine cuts then regular sharpness suffices. It just went off a tangent because board hardness relates to sharpness.

Just sand the top off, oil it. Also, get rid of the fucking feet, just put a cloth underneath to keep it in place.

>>19540801
>People who troll saying shit like you gotta have a 100 dollar knife and sharpen it every day. Totally unrealistic and retarded. You can be 95% just as effective with the cheapest Walmart knife
Here's the thing. Meet halfway and I agree with you for the most part. Get a $50 decent knife and get 99%. The cheap walmart shit just bruises every herb and rapes every vegetable. I know because I've used it. There is no glory in shitty tools. The moment I could afford to upgrade, which if I remember correctly was Cephalon hard anodized aluminum pans, I think just a 5 set, 2 frying pans, one straght edged pan, one saucepan, one pasta boiler. For knives I think a 3 piece Henkles, chef, boning, pairing. And a decent few boards. Just doing that changed a poverty struggle to a pursuit of pleasure.

Having decent tools is important. Life is short, never forget that.

>>19541545
>get rid of the feet

Uhhhhhh

>>19541575
Just stating for the record this was probably 2004

>>19537310
It's an end grain cutting board, saves the knife edge more than face grain.

I am actually getting excited to start sanding it. I am imagining all those stains being gone and looking new again which I cant remember. Unfortunately, I only have some fine grit sandpaper and I really need some course stuff and mineral oil/wax. Christ, I have every kind of spray lubricant, lamp oil, gun oil etc but I got nothing that I can use for this block.

I was just in town for my monthly run on Sunday to get groceries and supplies. Guess I'll have to wait till the end of next month to drop by Lowes.

>>19541760
What the fuck just sand it faggot

>>19541766
I need coarser sandpaper.

>>19541771
No you don't. Just do it. You seem like one of those faggots who waits forever for perfect conditions vs the chad that makes do with what he has available. Choose the chad

>>19541781
t. retard
Sanding something with the wrong sandpaper grit is a good way to waste a shitload of time and get poor results

>>19541781
You can't resurface a board like this with fine sandpaper. He needs to remove a fuck ton of material, like a 16th of an inch across the whole board at least, maybe up to an eighth if there are really bad cuts and cracks.

>>19542162
Let's bo honest, if he scrapes away 1/8" and slops it in olive oil shit will be not ideal but ok.

>>19542168
Olive oil will go rancid, I think.

>>19542182
It will but you'll have a nice 4 months

I had a similar situation once with a block. I read somewhere that titebond III wood glue is FDA approved for food prep areas. It was said to use a syringe to squirt it into the cracks. Some people used wood filler, but I don't know about that. Also saw the fill it with beeswax and mineral oil suggestions. I just put that old butcher block out in my garage and use it as a clean bench so I never actually did any of those things. If I ever do it'll probably be a sanding with titebond maybe mixed with some sanding dust as filler for the cracks, then a coating of oil/wax.

>>19542182
use food grade mineral oil

>>19542243
You can mix glue with sawdust to get better color match

>>19542243
most small cracks are from the wood drying and shrinking, if you heavily apply the mineral oil several times a day over several days it will swell back up, the cracks will be gone and then you wax it to keep the oil in

>>19541760
you can get straight mineral oil in any walmart for cheaper, it's in the pharmacy section.

>>19537106
power sand that motherfucker

I am not wealthy but I bought a 10" VG-10 gyuto and I want to use it but my chopping boards are too small
Any suggestion for what to buy?

>>19537871
>valujet 592
thats crazy, they talk about that during hazmat handling training that everyone working on the planes I used to work on had to take

>>19542407
problem is they usually add a scent, I used baby oil to rehydrate my cabinets

>>19543452
Nah, you get the stuff sold as a laxative. No scent.

>>19541760
Motherfucker you can buy sandpaper from Amazon and have it within a day.

Same goes for mineral oil.

This thread is just some kind of psychosocial jerk off session for you, a real man would've had this chopping block refurbished in a day but you just ask stupid questions that you could work out yourself, I don't give a fuck about your insecurity.

sand it if you want it to look nice or don't whatever
buy a bottle of linseed oil and give it multiple coats
it's gonna be like new. if you don't want it post it to me it looks beautiful.

If end grain is the best, why don't I just get a slice of log like the chinks do?

>>19543756
Very difficult to find such a large piece with no voids. That's why end grain cutting boards with larger chunks of wood are generally considered higher quality. This is especially true when you want very large boards, which are usually more desirable if you have the kitchen space.

>>19537398
>>19537410
holy shit you went above and beyond coo/ck

>>19543452
The smell of baby oil/baby powder and children crying gives me elections.

>>19537106
Just sand it and reapply whatever surface you want.

>>19543928
Where does one buy surfaces?

>>19543993
Most places that sell computers and gadgets.

>>19544939
Sex with... children?

>>19537106
Sand it with a random orbital sander. Start with 80 grit. Sand until the deepest scratch is smooth. Switch to 120. Sand until smooth. Switch to 150. Repeat. 180 repeat. 220 repeat. Should be plenty smooth at that point. Get some cutting board oil and rub it down. Let it soak in for a few hours. Rub it again. Let it soak in for at least 24 hrs. Do it again. Repeat until oil doesn't get soaked up by the wood. Let it sit for 48 hours. Then you can use it. Re-apply oil every few months. Sand as needed.

Or you know just do it manually and take your time sanding it. You don't need an electric tool for everything.

Everyone telling OP to sand it himself is retarded. There's no way an amateur won't introduce a lot of high and low spots. If you really want to keep it, you could ask a carpenter or some one like that to sand it level and finish it with food grade mineral oil

>>19547535
That's a good idea. Sunday is tommorow so should just ask at church.

>>19547535
I feel like this is just asking for reasons to never finish the project and for it to end up sitting, never being repaired. If he already has the sander, and it's otherwise trash, why not gain some experience on this?

Easier to just get Jesus to do it tommorrow.

>>19542243
>It was said to use a syringe to squirt it into the cracks
literal placebo
modern wood glue doesnt bond to cured wood glue, like you would find in a cracked joint. they only bond by getting squeezed in wood pores/vacuoles on fresh virgin wood. If its cracked its either gone or you use 2 part epoxy

>>19537106
Sand it down then coat it in oil.

>>19547848
Bumping for anon to talk to his church friends

>>19547848
Will you be smashing any qt catholic puss anon?

>>19547535
This guy is right it is relatively simple for anyone with a little experience, but very easy to fuck up if you’ve never done anything like it before, but then again it is just a cutting board so you have little to lose if you’d otherwise turf it so I also agree with >>19548052 and >>19546371 advice is close enough to right 60/80 and 150 them 220 should be enough to get the job done though if doing it with an orbital and not by hand

t. Cabinetmaker

>>19537811
>It's $445
>For a cutting board
>plus shipping
Eat the rich

>>19552354
Making my own would be a fun project.

>>19553502
making an endgrain board without a proper saw and planer is not fun, its agonizing and repetitive. Even with proper tools its a monkey job