/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

[Super Sentai/Power Ranger Cosp(...) No.7753461]

Super Sentai / Power Rangers Do it Yourself thread.
Post cosplay pics, ask questions, and have fun.

The goal is to get enough info to start a guide.

[Decade !!GCDrKbHwher No.7754088]

>Super Sentai / Power Rangers Do it Yourself thread.
not one mention onf Rider?
Cmonnnnn

Things to look into for a guide,
Pepakura designer
Fiberglassing bondo and alternatives
clay and sculpting, Molding and casting
Fabrics
gloves and boots
Eva Foam aromoring.
Tips for hiding Dicks ( dont fucking say dancers belts, every time I've seen that it looks like a very awkward bulge, more so than just your knob)

Ill have my Eye on here And ill do my best to Try and release all the raw objs from the games in any master post in the future for anybody looking for em

[Bad Wolf !XLIjtOmIpc No.7754134]

You know what's a godsend for toku weapons? MDF board. It does fine detail really well, laminates together solidly with just a little contact cement, and all it takes is a couple coats of fiberglass resin before it's solid as a rock and really glassy.

Only problem is that it gets pretty heavy pretty fast, especially with three coats of resin on it.

Pic related: solid MDF, fiberglass resin, and Apoxie Sculpt. Took me a couple weeks from start to finish.

[Anonymous No.7754420]

I'm thinking about making Ticket to understand sculpting and casting a bit better before I take on a helmet. I'll post some progress when I make some.

[King Ub Neo No.7754788]

>>7714223
Some one is working on a Kachidoki Arms Helmet

[Anonymous No.7755399]

>>7753461
I asked in the last sentai thread which may or may not have died and the anon never got back to me. I'd like to make an akibared helmet out of eva foam but have no idea how to do the hair part. Have any ideas? I know how to make the basic shape but no idea on how to attach those extra parts without it looking like shit. Also can you can anything to eva foam to hide seams? Like similar to bondo on pepakura that you can sand down. I ask only because I've never worked with that kinda material before.

[Anonymous No.7756154]

>>7755399
You can use fiberglass / bondo over EVA foam. You can also use other fillers or paper mache. Gesso and artist's medium* is a common suggestions to fill the pattern on some eva foams.

*it might be called gel medium or something? It's thick stuff you can paint with to add texture to a painting. I'm sure there are other options as well.

[Decade !!GCDrKbHwher No.7756418]

>>7755399
oh this scares me, The hair Is a bothersome part, all of the spikes are at 90 degree angles, and eva is good to use for armor but Helmets, im not too sure, especially for the lips. As far as hiding seams, before you put edges together with hot glue, take clear packing tape, tape over where the edges meet and then hotglue the other side, let it cool the pull the tape off, if yu did it right, little to no run off on your seams and plasti dip hides them well.

[Anonymous No.7757022]

>>7756418
Well I had no intentions of using foam on the entire helmet. Just the base part excluding the mouth piece and visor.

I was gonna follow this tutorial on getting the basic round shape and obviously tweak it. But he didn't explain about adding a different shape to it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODSNPYdvJRo

>>7756154
Alright. I considered that stuff but wasn't sure it would work the same with eva foam. I'll keep that in mind when I start the build.

[Anonymous No.7757191]

Speaking of EVA foam, where do you guys get yours?
There are many different types online but I don't know what thickness to get and which online seller. I'm looking to make armor.

Oh, and something new: Walmart just started selling fiberglass and bondo for $5 a pack. Check for it in their car isle.

[Anonymous No.7757518]

So I want to do a ichigo helmet, I already have the papercraft but what should I do?

I tried to do the papercraft with normal paper and it failed of course.

Then I tried to use thicker paper but when I tried to apply some plaster resin (cause I only got that) and the helmet collapsed because of the humidity

So yeah, what am I supposed to do once I have the helmet in paper?

[Anonymous No.7758042]

Let's get started, please help me fill in the gaps:
For helmet making we should make two sections:
>trusted sellers with time warnings
>how to make it yourself

For the how-to, I remember in the last thread that sculpting is done with Monster Clay since it won't dry out.
It's $28 from amazon.

Now how is casting done?
I tried Paster de paris for the negative but it sucked ass.

[Anonymous No.7758088]

>>7755399
First make the round helmet following the proportions of your own head.
Make sure it fits nice and tight.
The blue lines represent your head. You will have limited vision if you want it to be accurate.
You will notice by this picture that length of the spikes are proportional to the length between the ears and the tip of the visor.
Also, the tip of the visor is where the first spike beings. Then make the second spike 45 degrees, and so on for the top spike.
If you have a figure you can see what the basic shape of the spikes are.
Ask me any other questions.

[Anonymous No.7758103]

>>7758042
This page has some tutorials for casting
http://cosplaytutorial.com/list.php#ArmorCasting

[Anonymous No.7758122]

>>7758042

You're going to want to cast in rubber, not a solid mold. Removing a solid plastic piece from a solid plaster mold will have to involve the destruction of the mold because of vacuum force. I personally use Omoo rubber to cast all my pieces when I make replicas of the official Bandai Fashion jewelry from these shows because it's much easier than sculpting four or five identical little plastic lion skulls for Ian Yorkland's jewelry lol

I cast my stuff in Smoothcast 300 because it's a 1:1 formula and it goes from clear when it's first mixed to white when it's fully cured so you know when everything is finished. Smoothcast is a plastic though, so it doesn't hold up to high heat very well and has a tendency to shatter.

Check out Volpin Props' Thomas Bangalter (Daft Punk) build (specifically part two of the build, it keeps telling me the post is spam when I try to post the link) because it goes into way more detail than I have, with the added benefit of step-by-step pictures of the moldmaking process.

Any way you look at it, casting will not be cheap. You can make your cost back by selling pulls of your helmet, though.

[Anonymous No.7758154]

>>7758122
Thank you very much for your help. I just went to a con and I saw a Majora's Mask cast off go for $700 in live auction.
Just to let you know since you sell casts.

[Anonymous No.7758653]

>>7758122
Found a link with everything, thanks for the info on Volpin Props

http://www.tested.com/art/makers/455027-volpin-project-part-7-introduction-moldmaking/

[Decade !!GCDrKbHwher No.7762201]

bamp

[Anonymous No.7766186]

トリケラレンジャー guy back with an update. I have finally "finished" all my body work and sanding. I wet sanded everything and I went all the way up to 2000 grit! For those of you in the know, you'll probably agree that that is overkill. While there are still aspects about it that are wanting, I have to finish it in time for Dragon Con. The "visor" in the one picture is just a piece I cut out of an old kick drum resonant head. I just wanted to get the effect. If you have any questions, please ask!

[Anonymous No.7766189]

[Anonymous No.7766191]

[Anonymous No.7766296]

>>7766186

You really, honestly, truly do NOT have to spell 'Triceraranger' in kana every time you post. Also your center horn looks like it's veering off to one side slightly.

[Anonymous No.7766323]

>>7766191
Looking pretty good so far. I agree with >>7766296
that the horn looks crooked but I guess there isn't much you can do at this point. Just keep it in mind when posing, if you do front on it's going to look off.

[Anonymous No.7768346]

>>7766323
He can add bondo to even out the horn. It can still be saved.

Anyways, thank you to the guy that's making the blue ranger helmet. I managed to get everything that I need to get started.

[Anonymous No.7768515]

>>7768346
If you happen to have a heat gun, I find it useful for keeping the clay pliable while working with it. That might help you with your project. What are you planning to sculpt?

[Anonymous No.7768531]

>>7768515
I been using hot water to attach pieces of the clay into the head. It's proven to be very time consuming so I'll definitely use a heat gun, thanks for the tip.

I am new to casting so I'll make a round helmet first. I'm using silicone for the mold and liquid plastic for the helmet itself. What other materials would I be able to use for the helmet? Fiberglass or liquid resin?

[Anonymous No.7768542]

So I have a ranger helmet where the clasps were put on the inside. I commissioned it but the clasps broke off uncleanly as their are still bits of the helmet stuck on it.

What can I do?

[Anonymous No.7768544]

>>7768531
Yeah the heat gun has made everything easier. You can also use the oven to heat it (the tray monster clay comes in is oven safe) but the top gets very hot.

You could use resin, which is also plastic. Not sure if you can use fiberglass with a mold but you can use it for helmets.

I'm also working my way up to a full helmet, decided to work on a Ticket from ToQger to get a feel for the materials and test out casting without wasting a lot of material.

[Anonymous No.7768560]

>>7768542
Post a picture, that'll give us an idea on how to fix it.

[Anonymous No.7768569]

>>7768544
You're right, I should probably make something smaller before I tackle a full helmet.

Do you think I could use clear resin like in this pic? I'm looking for see-through alternatives that can be tinted.
And would fiberglass cloth stick to plastic to harden the inside of a helmet?

[Decade !!GCDrKbHwher No.7768600]

>>7768569
Smooth cast 325
Smooth-on.com

[Anonymous No.7768613]

>>7768600
Smooth-On has everything, dear god. Thanks decade.

[Anonymous No.7768623]

>>7768600
Adding, you'll probably have to polish it to get it to have a good shine. Pic is volpin showing an after / before.

[Anonymous No.7768626]

>>7768623
forgot to add, you can also use a high gloss finish if you don't want to do the polishing work.

[Anonymous No.7768642]

>>7768626

What's the point of a finish when you can just break out the rubbing compound and some 2000 grit and give it a little bit of a scrub? If you've got a buffing wheel for your car it makes it even easier.

[Anonymous No.7768644]

>>7768544

You can definitely use fiberglass with a silicone mold, I've done it numerous times myself. Call around to auto body shops in your area, especially ones that specialize in classic restoration, and see if you can get fiberglass resin and mat in bulk. I have one about a mile from my house that sells it for $30 for a gallon paint can and I couldn't use it all before water got in it one winter and turned it sour. be sure to use it in a well-ventilated area though, because it stinks like a motherfucker. Fiberglass fumes of any kind are the fucking worst. I was using a hot wire to carve fiberglass insulation foam to make Aguri's bow from GARO: YamiTera and it gave me a bit of a cough after a while even with a respirator.

>>7768542

Shit dude, a friend of mine had the same thing happen. He got stuck in his helmet on a hot day at a con and it was the fucking worst. If you can, just install your clasps on the outside of your helmet with a couple small screws so you don't end up stuck in yours like he did.

[Anonymous No.7768645]

>>7768642
It's much easier to polish, sand, or cut things with a cheap dremel. I haven't hand sanded anything in years.

>>7768623
Is that Smooth on 325 being used for the seen through ball? Google search brings me nothing for that picture.

[Anonymous No.7768650]

>>7768542
I'd remove the entire clasp design and add strong magnets in its place. It won't be as secure but easy to put it on and off. I doubt you'll be doing flips or fast movements.

[Anonymous No.7768658]

>>7768645

This is the comment that goes along with the picture on Volpin's FB page, so yeah, Smoothcast 325 buffed on a wheel.

Also have you guys ever heard about Rage Gold? It's like Bondo except better. It doesn't heat up the same way Bondo does when friction (sanding) is applied, so the dust doesn't gum up your piece and stick in all the nooks and crannies. It's a little cheaper too, I think.

[Anonymous No.7769008]

>>7766296

トリケラレンジャー guy here to let you know that it's not a question of "have to", I want and will continue to use kana. I don't learn foreign languages only to not use them where applicable.

>>7766296
>>7766323

The appearance of the horn is mostly due to lens distortion from the focal length and a poor angle. I'm no photographer. Admittedly, it could use a little more material on one side. So no it's not symmetrical in the strictest sense, but it's not crooked.

>>7768346

You are most welcome. I believe that anyone can sculpt but here are some tips that have less to do with "how to sculpt" and more to do with making the time you spend sculpting more efficient.

Get yourself a rasp. It takes away much less material than you'd imagine in one pass. However with repeated passes you CAN take away a lot of material if you so choose. As a result you can achieve the broad shape in no time.

Try to find a silicone tray to dump the strands of clay from the rasp into. I kept it under the area I was working and they simply fell into it, reducing clean up time substantially. Then you simply microwave the tray when you need soft workable clay.

Continued...

[Anonymous No.7769092]

>>7769008

Once you obtain the overall shape, you'll probably want to rake out the tool marks from the rasp. You may find that you can't discern whether or not you have got the correct shape until you have at least some of the distinguishing features on there. I couldn't, so I did most of my rasping at the end and let me tell you, it's a pain to try to rasp around even the most basic details. If possible, it's better to add raised elements onto a nice smooth surface.

I recommend a look at these two videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zrNwBVPllQ&list=UUMhU_fpxp4zbx7R8OuJhT0g

4chan thinks the second link was spam so you'll have to Google:

"davepresslersculpting smoothing technique"

A bondo spatula will fill in all of your rake marks for a "heavier" rake like the ones in my last picture which are made from band saw or scroll saw blades. When I say heavy, I mean in comparison to a guitar string rake. If you move down to a guitar string rake like the one discussed on that blog, I found that a cheap electric toothbrush will knock down the itty bitty ridges left behind. It doesn't remove material so much as stipples it down at the micro level. It doesn't leave it with a shine like using a solvent would, it's more of a matte finish. You could either use a solvent or a alcohol torch afterwards to make it shine. Smoothing is the most aggravating part of oil based clay. Good luck!

[Anonymous No.7769112]

>>7769008 (You)

Once you obtain the overall shape, you'll probably want to rake out the tool marks from the rasp. You may find that you can't discern whether or not you have got the correct shape until you have at least some of the distinguishing features on there. I couldn't, so I did most of my rasping at the end and let me tell you, it's a pain to try to rasp around even the most basic details. If possible, it's better to add raised elements onto a nice smooth surface.

I recommend a look at these two videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zrNwBVPllQ&list=UUMhU_fpxp4zbx7R8OuJhT0g

4chan thought the second link was spam so you'll have to Google:

"davepresslersculpting smoothing technique"

It should be the first hit.

A bondo spatula will fill in all of your rake marks for a "heavier" rake like the ones in my last picture which are made from band saw or scroll saw blades. When I say heavy, I mean in comparison to a guitar string rake. If you move down to a guitar string rake like the one discussed on that blog, I found that a cheap electric toothbrush will knock down the itty bitty ridges left behind. It doesn't remove material so much as stipples it down at the micro level. It doesn't leave it with a shine like using a solvent would, it's more of a matte finish. You could either use a solvent or a alcohol torch afterwards to make it shine. Smoothing is the most aggravating part of oil based clay. Good luck!

[Anonymous No.7769117]

>>7769112

Last but not least, and I hate to be the bearer of bad news, I have found that you need at least ten pounds of Monster Clay to create a helmet large enough to cover the adult male head to the proper size. Of course, your mileage may vary depending on the size of your head armature.

[Anonymous No.7769400]

>>7769008

But it's not applicable, you gigantic weeb. You're not writing your entire post in Japanese, just the one word. Romaji will suffice. You're talking to people in English. I can speak the language too, doesn't mean I write all my posts in glorious 日本語。

[Anonymous No.7769410]

>>7769400
It's like trying to explain to tripfags why tripcodes are retarded outside of their proper use. You're fighting a losing battle here.

[Anonymous No.7769424]

>>7769410

Yeah, there's no reasoning with a weeb.

[Anonymous No.7769515]

>>7769400

>>7769400

Have you something of value to contribute to this topic of this thread or would it content you more to nitpick? I imagine you're one of those people who butcher loan words. Gil-uh-teen, all-timers, ex-presso. I have invested thousands of hours cultivating interests in other cultures and their tongues. When, where, and how I apply that knowledge is at my discretion. Learning a language is a worthwhile investment of time. Is arguing on the internet? Good for you for learning glorious 日本語, you should embrace the fact that you are culturally aware rather than denigrate people on a コスプレ board. Nice dubs.

[Anonymous No.7769518]

>>7769515

What the fuck did you just fucking say about me, you little bitch? I’ll have you know I graduated top of my class in the Navy Seals, and I’ve been involved in numerous secret raids on Al-Quaeda, and I have over 300 confirmed kills. I am trained in gorilla warfare and I’m the top sniper in the entire US armed forces. You are nothing to me but just another target. I will wipe you the fuck out with precision the likes of which has never been seen before on this Earth, mark my fucking words. You think you can get away with saying that shit to me over the Internet? Think again, fucker. As we speak I am contacting my secret network of spies across the USA and your IP is being traced right now so you better prepare for the storm, maggot. The storm that wipes out the pathetic little thing you call your life. You’re fucking dead, kid. I can be anywhere, anytime, and I can kill you in over seven hundred ways, and that’s just with my bare hands. Not only am I extensively trained in unarmed combat, but I have access to the entire arsenal of the United States Marine Corps and I will use it to its full extent to wipe your miserable ass off the face of the continent, you little shit. If only you could have known what unholy retribution your little “clever” comment was about to bring down upon you, maybe you would have held your fucking tongue. But you couldn’t, you didn’t, and now you’re paying the price, you goddamn idiot. I will shit fury all over you and you will drown in it. You’re fucking dead, kiddo.

[Anonymous No.7769548]

>>7769518
You should have made it Cosplay/lolita themed. Would have been awesome.

[Anonymous No.7770624]

>>7768642
For people too lazy to do the buffing.

>>7769117
Yikes, I may need more clay...

[Anonymous No.7770756]

>>7768346
>Bible Black VN
You are my favorite person.

[AimedCrit No.7771094]

Captain Marvelous is me in the left.

[Anonymous No.7771342]

>>7771094
Style the wig

The collar looks really high which, combined with hand placement, makes it look like you have zero neck.

The coat's color is off by quite a bit

The biggest issue aside from the wig is that you have this really long shirt with a short vest and the belt is a bit too tight. Makes you look really weird.

Pretty sure Marv's boots have laces. I think you could find better footwear.

Otherwise, I'd recognize you at a con so it's not terrible and despite the list of concrit above you're not even close to the worst I've seen.

[Anonymous No.7771367]

>>7771342
a lot of toku cosplayers don't even wear wigs at all. It's depressing

[Anonymous No.7771444]

>>7771342

Vest is probably too small, which is why it rides up so high when he lifts his arms.

My main problem with store-bought Marv coats is that not only is the color off, but they never actually make the damn thing out of velvet. The coat is made of a nice short velvet, a friend of mine has the real deal. You can get a velvet that would work just fine at Joanns.

Also yeah, style your goddamn wig. Basco is the one with immaculate hair, not Marvelous.

[Anonymous No.7771597]

>>7771094

Better effort than I usually see with Marv. So there's that.

I wonder why it's so hard to get right. It's not super complicated. Just a few little bits.

[Anonymous No.7771642]

>>7771597

[Anonymous No.7771644]

>>7771367
Breaks my heart, especially when they are otherwise decent.

>>7771597
It's not hard to get right, just that nobody puts in the effort.

[Anonymous No.7771648]

>>7771597

It's not hard to get it right. The vast majority of toku cosplayers are just fucking dumb is all. Ever try to organize an entire photoshoot of them? It's like herding mentally retarded cats. A friend of mine ran the one at AX and apparently people would just stand around talking between the photogs and the cosplayers during the shoot. I ran one at Fanime and it was fucking chaos.

[Anonymous No.7771653]

Wish there were more GARO cosplayers in the states...

[Anonymous No.7772114]

Incoming blog
[spoiler]
So a few months back I showed my friends Kyoryuger and they fell in love with the show. One of them decided they wanted to cosplay gold so we rushed the suit for Otakon. My friend decided to commission the helmet from their favorite site, Cosplay House. This is what $200 shipped is like. Water bottle is for size comparison.

[Anonymous No.7772118]

>>7772114
Welp, I can't spoiler anymore. The side view.
It's made out of plastic, so it's very light but it feels extremely fragile.

[AimedCrit No.7772161]

>>7771642
Actually this was also me but Akon 24. I had just got there and the con hadn't even started and I hadn't gotten the wig fixed yet. Overbeck snapped that picture as I was wandering trying to figure out where the hell the weapons check was at.

[AimedCrit No.7772167]

>>7771342
I have been looking around trying to figure out somewhere to get the boots from since these are what I decided to go ahead and go with.

The belt is a bit tight because it's got the weapon, pistol, and mobirates hanging onto it weighing it down.

The wig I am not very good at doing hair since I don't have long hair so I am doing it myself and again I am bad.

Yea the collar is a bit high and the shirt I need to get a different one for probably get it tailored as his shirt needs long sleeves to poke outside of the jacket.

Yea the vest over all was my bad I made it far far to short so gonna have to try it again.

[Anonymous No.7772497]

>>7772114
$200? ... eugh

>>7772167
Don't fret about defending yourself, just find ways to improve those areas for the next time you wear the costume.

[Anonymous No.7775304]

So casting is best when the outside temperature is around 73F?
What about colder months, could I do casting indoors?

[Anonymous No.7775314]

>>7775304
yup, if it gets too hot then your materials are going to cure much faster and storage can become a problem. Too cold and it slows your casting immensely. Both too hot and too cold can disrupt the curing process!

You can do casting indoors but, depending on the material, you're going to want ventilation or proper PPE.

[Anonymous No.7776675]

[Anonymous No.7778761]

[Anonymous No.7779338]

>>7778761
That looks legit.