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/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL


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7376469 No.7376469 [Reply] [Original]

So I've been sewing with the Otome no Sewing patterns lately, and thought I would share some things I've learned. Please feel free to contribute/dump sewing tutorials as well as share your own lolita creations!

>> No.7376481

what I've learned:
>most Japanese sewing patterns do not have seam allowance. you need to add it!
>invest in dot/tracing paper to trace off your patterns
>if you are have trouble with the bust area, you may need to do a full bust adjustment (or alternatively a small bust adjustment) most commercial patterns are for a B cup.
>make a muslin

>> No.7377474

http://www.feorag.com/gosurori/gr-patterns.pdf

PDF translating kanji into english, etc. Very helpful!

>> No.7377790

Anybody know some reliable & affordable places to buy fabrics? (Bonus for "kawaii" stuff)
I've tried eBay and Etsy, but all I could really find on eBay is cheap tulle and upholstery fabric, and a lot of Etsy is just overpriced reselling.
Is Taobao worth looking at?

>> No.7377800

I really like these but have no idea how to start!

The patterns provided are always so tiny - are we supposed to draft them out to our own exact measurements somehow with some whacky triangulation?

Take note I've only used standard pattern packs like simplicity etc.

>> No.7377869

>>7377800
Maybe it's what this >>7376481 anon was saying?
>>most Japanese sewing patterns do not have seam allowance. you need to add it!

>>7377790
I'd also like to know where to find good border prints that isn't Spoonflower.

Though if we do decide to Spoonflower it, which kind are we supposed to get again? And if we lined in any sort of particular fabric would it help with the drape?

>> No.7377974

>>7377790
I go to Shabbyfabrics to find collections/designers that I like, then google them to find cheaper prices. :3

They have some gorgeous floral prints for classic.

>> No.7378132

>>7377869
Seam allowance =/= sloping it up to your size, that requires some knowledge of pattern redrafting.

Anon, I have this problem too... learning to draft patterns is very difficult on your own, even studying out of books.

>> No.7378175

>>7377790
fashion fabrics club
tends to be decently afforadable
huge selection
Ive only ordered from them once, but it was a positive experience.

>> No.7378178

>>7378175
affordable
>please excuse my piss poor spelling

>> No.7378470
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7378470

>>7377800
When you buy the mooks they come with patterns that you trace off from a master pattern sheet. They generally come in 3 sizes, that they give measurements for. If you are over you will need to adjust the pattern. The like pattern bits are shown so that you could draft your own.

>> No.7378479
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7378479

>>7378470
Big ass pattern sheet

>> No.7378481
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7378481

>>7378479
One way to tell which pattern piece is which when it's touching a side

>> No.7378484
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7378484

>>7378481
All the pieces for 1 OP! The rectangle skirt portion was not included on the sheet, so it needed to be drafted from the measurement diagram

>> No.7378567

>>7377974
Seconding shabbyfabrics, they have some really nice ones, even though you've gotta sort through a pretty huge selection to find what you're looking for

>> No.7378593

>>7378470
Ok i understand!

I'll think I'll go with grabbing a sheet first. I'm a noob whose only sewn a simple skirt, some bows and a maxipad headdress

>> No.7378596

>>7378470
I'm sorry to noob out, I hear about mooks but never learned much about them. They're like fashion magazines for lolita? I'm guessing GLB is one? And do they all come with patterns? I'm off to order one now if thats the case.

>> No.7378598

>>7378596
GLD comes with a few patterns, but you could also get Gosurori magazines, that's all about handmaking lolita items

>> No.7378600

>>7378598
GLB* sorry

>> No.7378603

>>7378596
Not all GLB patterns are that great, it varies. You might as well get the gosurori ones anon mentioned above.

>> No.7378604

>>7378596
Go for Otome no Sewing!. There are currently 4 volumes and are just patterns. There will be at least a JSK, blouse, skirt, and some sort of cardigan. I really need to compile this stuff as I have all 4 right now.

>> No.7378607

>>7378598
>>7378603
>>7378604
Thank you so much! I'm off to buy them right now, got that paycheck today.

>Egad, the item description on one of these

>"Here is the sixth issue of "Gosu Rori", the Japanese magazine dedicated to the Gothic Lolita fetish fashion."

>> No.7378620

>>7378604
here are the isbn #s so you can find them easier. please try not to buy for over $20 as they only retail for about $16.
乙女のソ-イングBOOK
>vol.1: 9784834733761
>vol.2: 9784834734881
>vol.3: 9784834735512
>vol.4: 9784834736809

>> No.7382729

Sorry if this is posting in a wrong thread, this is the only related one I found. I've been looking for a skirt tutorial for just a rectangle skirt with an organza overlay. I saw this fabric

http://www.joann.com/sew-sweet-easter-egg-organza-lavender/12145140.html

At joanns, and even though it has that damn zebra print, I still love it. I figured I would put something like this

http://www.hancockfabrics.com/Kona-Cotton-Fabric-Solids-in-Medium-Grey-Kona-Cotton_stcVVproductId49134013VVcatId539048VVviewprod.htm

under it. Any advice? I cant find any overlay tutorials, only petticoat tutorials pop up.

>> No.7382739

>>7377869
there's a little pack you can get from spoonflower for like $2 that includes all the different kinds of fabrics and a color swatch. iirc the sateen is the most appropriate for lolita

>> No.7382746

>>7382729
by overlay you just mean you want two layers of identical size right on top of each other, right? if not, could you describe what you mean exactly?

if what I described is what you want, it's super simple; just follow an ordinary rectangle skirt tutorial with two layers (plus lining if you want) instead of one. you can gather separately or together depending on how you want it to look

>> No.7382765

>>7382746
Yeah, that's what I mean. Thank you! i thought it would be simple, but I'm a complete sewing noob and wasn't sure.

>> No.7382785

Oh snap I was hoping for one of these threads. So I was researching cyanotypes and found this pre-treated fabric: http://www.dharmatrading.com/transfers/blueprints-cotton-cyanotype-fabric.html It's expensive, but wouldn't it be fun to make your own edge printed fabric with it? Mock up a pattern in photoshop, print it on acetate, then lay it out in the sun. They also make paints that are UV reactive like this.

>> No.7382790
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7382790

I wanna hang around so I'll contribute. I emphasize on pattern drafting and sewing so please barrage me with questions?

>> No.7382953
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7382953

Does anybody happen to have tutorials on hand on how to do corset lacing for the backs of JSKs / OPs?
(Shitty example, but pic related)

>> No.7382962

>>7382953
Unless you can draft or alter existing patterns, it's better to get a pattern for an OP/JSK that already has it and work with that. It's not just something you can stick in to a design without it and have it look good.

>> No.7382982
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7382982

This is my latest lolita project, still need to hem the skirt and make the sash, right now its just a spare bit of material tied around the waist.

>> No.7382990

>>7382982
please add some black to the skirt (black velveteen border or black lace), right now it looks like the lolita version of those 2 in one office separates

>> No.7382994

>>7382990
I'm also making a black chiffon underskirt to wear underneath to balance out the pattern. Not sure what you mean by office separates though?

>> No.7382995

>>7382994
ah you know those dresses that are made to look like a blouse tucked into a skirt but it's really just one dress?
sorry my phrasing before was a bit rude, but I'll leave judgement up to you was the designer/seamstress as to what you like better.

>> No.7383028

>>7382982
beautiful bodice.

bottom fabric is gonna have to try really hard not to look bad.
Red or blue version of this fabric would look better but not by much.

Best of luck Anon

>> No.7383048

>>7382995
>>7383028
The more i look at it I'm starting to think I will add a black velvet trim along the bottom of the skirt instead of the underskirt. Honestly I like the fabric, but I can see how it isn't to everyone's taste especially in lolita. I am experimenting with a French hood inspired headpiece to match, with a plain gold band and two layers of chiffon veil. Idk this could end in style disaster but it has been a fun project for the weekend and some pattern modification/drafting.

>> No.7383065

>>7382982
Have you though about using black lace horizontally and vertically on the skirt, oldschool style? It might help tie the bodice and skirt together.

>> No.7383073

>>7383048
I just wouldn't have done a black bodice with it personally

>> No.7383110

>>7378620
Ahh I just bought mine for $30 but it was shipped

Thank you though I appreciate the thought!

>> No.7383112

>>7382953
I think some of those dresses, not sure if your pic related is one of them, use some lace that has loops wide enough to pass ribbon through?

>> No.7383116

>>7382982
nice
what do you think of a chiffon overlay like a curtain? (Like Day Dream carnival but longer?)

>> No.7383241

>>7383110
ugh. I'm sorry, but that's a disgusting markup! :(

>> No.7383456
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7383456

I want to make this scarf, but I can't find scans of the pattern anywhere. Would someone happen to have it? I know it was published in the 27th issue of GLB.

>> No.7383578
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7383578

>>7382953
I've done it one of two ways - the first is to sew loops of ribbon into the seams of the corset panel.

The second is a bit more complicated. I use it for when I want the lacing to go through eyelets instead of loops, like pic related. you need to do a french seam except on the wrong side of the fabric, so the encased part is on the right side instead of the wrong side. Then you have a stable place to put your eyelets

let me know if this was confusing and I can make it more detailed/do a mini tutorial

>> No.7383596

>>7383456
I have it but not scanned, if no one else has a version already scanned I'll see about digging it out.

>> No.7383627

>>7382790
beautiful embroidery work! Do you have an embroidery machine or do you freestyle? Or go by hand?

Also, where is your dressform from? I have an ugly plastic one that I'm sewing a knit cover for, but I would like to save up for a more substantial one

>> No.7384036

>>7383596
Thanks, anon. I've found a few scans of the magazine, but none of them have included the patterns.

>> No.7384044

>>7384036
Just checking but, you know this is a knitted scarf? There's no pattern, only instructions which would be on the featured page within the mook.

>> No.7384050

>>7384044
Well aware that it's a knitted scarf; the knitting pattern/instructions are what I'm looking for, and they're not anywhere in the two scans I've downloaded.

>> No.7384057

>>7384050
How about just buying the mook?

>> No.7384216

>>7383578
Could you please post a tutorial?

>> No.7384330
File: 8 KB, 391x307, frenchseam.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7384330

>>7383578
>>7384216
let's seeee

to understand what you need to do, you gotta understand what a french seam is. it's a very useful seam anyway, particularly for sheer and drapey fabrics in things like bodices. but that's not what we're using it for here.

basically, you're going to sew the lacing panel seams right sides together 1/2 in from the edge. Then, iron the seam apart and flip it around so the seam allowance is encased and you have a new edge. sew AGAIN 1/2 inch from the edge, encasing the seam allowance in the new seam. you'll have a flap sticking out on the right side of the fabric. that's where you're going to put the eyelets.

all you have to do now is basic eyelet insertion. the number of layers of fabric in the seam will keep the eyelets stable when you lace it up (the eyelets would tear right out if you only used one or two layers and no stabilizers).

keep in mind that if you're altering an existing pattern, you'll have to figure out how much seam allowance the pattern allows and adjust it to 1" (.5" for the first seam and ".5 for the finishing one).

when you use the french seam for things like chiffon blouses, you want to put the flap part of the seam on the inside. it's a really lovely seam, especially for fabrics that easily fray. there are no unfinished edges on the inside or outside so it keeps delicate fabrics nice for longer.

pic related isn't mind, found with a quick google search but it's nice to have a visual aid. don't bother trimming if you're doing a lacing panel, though. it's to reduce bulk, but that bulk is useful in this case.

let me know if you want anything clarified!

I've been thinking of starting some sort of lolita sewing blog maybe? I know there are a bunch of those already but they seem to cater to the lowest skillset (rectangle skirts etc) which is fine, but there seems to be a need for more advanced techniques. would anyone be interested in lolita specific photo tutorials showing lacing panels, bodice drafting, etc?

>> No.7384420

>>7382982
bottom fabric is hideous!

>> No.7384750

>>7384330
Yes please, I think that's definitely a good idea! There's so many lolita tutorials out there, but having ones with actual, specific visual aids (photos especially) is so rare.

>> No.7385023

>>7384057
Look, I was just asking. If I come across the GLB it's supposedly in, yes, I'll buy it.

>> No.7386616

>>7383241
4 is the only one that is still in print in japan though.

>> No.7386740

>>7386616
And? You can still buy the other three for less than $20.

>> No.7387321
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7387321

So I used a pattern in vol 2 (heavily edited changed collar, made band sleeves, added pockets, removed bib).
Totally didn't realize I needed to bring in the waist after a FBA, so the dress is very boxy without a belt. It's also a bit too long for the petti I have. Ah well.

>> No.7387333

>>7387321
>lolita
no.

>> No.7387336

>>7387321
I find the end result very pretty. I also try to modify some patterns and always end up forgetting one important detail. But you look super cute and I like how the dress falls. IMO, the petty works well, it falls really nicely.

>> No.7387343
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7387343

>>7387333
well duh. I guess I should watch what I name stuff, oops.
>>7387336
Thanks! I'm not wearing a petti in the picture as is gave the 'lampshade' type look.

>> No.7387369

>>7387333
no shit sherlock

>>7387321
well thats a practice that you've learned from. i understand you tried your best making this your own lolita dress, though have you yet tried a pattern straight from the book first?

>> No.7387545

>>7378620
Where do you seagulls buy them? I'm looking around, but I'm not sure what's reliable...

>> No.7387581

How ita would it be to make a lolita skirt with Little Mermaid fabric to wear to Disney World?

>> No.7387741

>>7387581
just don't label/tag or even say it's "lolita" and hopefully noone will chastise you about it. Wear want you want, and have fun in Disney World my dear :]

>> No.7387804

>>7387369
Thanks! My next dress I'm going to do straight from the book. Really I'm a wannabe lolita, so I get the feeling that most of what I'll make will just turn out to be more RTW/otome than anything simply based on the fabrics I pick and how I style everything. Ah well.
>>7387545
got mine from Kinokuniya

>> No.7387915
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7387915

How can I make a collar like on the Holy Lantern OP?

>> No.7387923

>>7387915
the bib part with the collar? or just the collar?

>> No.7388142

Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, but might anyone have advice on cleaning vintage sewing machines? I'm really concerned about the decals getting ruined if I use the wrong product/materials.
I was also wondering if there's some kind of finish (and if so, which kind) I could put on it afterwards to prevent the decals from rubbing off any further.

>> No.7388435

Although I'm not new to sewing, I have difficulty understanding sewing terms, remembering different stitches & fabric types, etc. Would anybody happen to have resources that explain what different terms mean, and the uses for different seams and fabrics?
Also, what are ideal fabrics for Lolita dresses / skirts?

(I took sewing throughout high school, but the teachers never bothered explaining what anything meant. Just "here's a pattern, I cut it out to the size you need, now sew something while I go get myself a coffee and play Angry Birds")

>> No.7388500
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7388500

>>7388435
Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.
It has almost everything.
And I don't mean to sound like a bit of a bitch, but has it not occurred to check out the sewing section of a bookstore or library? Or a simple google of 'how to sew' or 'different types seams' ?

Fabrics for Lolita dresses? Anything as long as you can sew it and it looks good.

>> No.7388552

>>7388500
Thank you for the recommendation, anon! I'll definitely check it out.
I've tried to look around in the past, but most books / websites seem to assume that you at least know the basics and don't really bother explaining EVERYTHING from the ground up, at least in my experience.
It seems like most people learn to sew from parents / family members, so simple things like reading patterns, basic stitch names, etc. seem to be 'assumed knowledge'.

>> No.7389449

>>7388142
I work at a small fabric store. one of my coworkers collects old sewing machines off craigslist and garage sales and refurbishes them (she has about 40 in her house right now). I'll be sure to ask her what she recommends the next time I go in, if the thread hasn't 404'd yet.

in the meantime, my best advice would be to bring it in for a tune-up. if it really is that old, it needs to be oiled and cleaned anyway, so you might as well have a professional do it. I have mine tuned up every two years or so and it always runs like a dream afterwards. just be sure to quiz the technician before you bring it in to make sure they've worked on your brand before. ask how much experience they've had with vintage machines, too. find a store whose technicians are licensed and work in-house (rather than shipping it off to be worked on) and you should be good to go.

>> No.7389566

>>7389449
That would be great, I really appreciate it! And thank you so much for all the advice on finding a good store to have it tuned up at. I can see that information being very helpful to me in the near future and I honestly feel a lot more comfortable now. Thanks again!

>> No.7389664

>>7388435
I use "the sewing bible." http://www.rakuten.com/prod/the-sewing-bible/211282344.html?listingId=-1&s_kwcid=
it has picture and word descriptions of a bunch of different seam types and sewing techniques. even if you're pretty advanced some of the techniques are still useful and it has a lot of little tricks. I've referred back to the list of seam finishes more than once, and I can never remember how to make continuous bias tape so I use it for that too.

As for lolita fabrics.... use 100% cotton fabrics. don't use poly blends because they aren't as durable and they don't breathe as well. in fact, avoid polyester altogether, unless you're making a chiffon blouse and can't afford silk. it's generally shiny and icky and people will look down on you for it. don't try velveteen and home decor stuff until you have some experience under your belt sewing loli.

don't even use polyester for linings. I know brands use poly for the linings and even fashion fabric, but it's different from what you get from your local fabric store. look for bemberg rayon linings (can also be marketed as ambiance). it's the best lining you can use for home sewing without upgrading to silk. it breathes, washes easily, and doesn't cling or wrinkle. unlike the polyester linings which look and feel like a garbage bag.

you can probably tell I hate polyester

>> No.7389860

>>7389664
you must not be using very nice polyester then.
shiny? really?

>> No.7389867
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7389867

Ok, OP here. I decided to take a chunk of my afternoon and put together a pattern list for the current Otome no Sewing mooks.
here's the link:
docs.google.com/document/d/1VCOYh6BP0ZO7WcdRoOczu2PYZUCZa_MiXpsWQvLRxGg/edit?usp=sharing

please let me know if there is any issues, or if you have any feed back.

>> No.7389890

From what I remember, the general attitude towards hand stitching is that it's unnecessary, obsolete, and the finished product would have looked much better machine-stitched. For the most part I agree with this, especially when the garment is touted as superior simply for being COMPLETELY HAND STITCHED + BLOOD SWEAT AN TEARRS GUISE ~!!!!11!

That being said, I'd really rather not blow my just-in-case fund on a sewing machine, especially when I just don't have space for one.
Obviously things would be wonky at first when I'm still learning; expecting anything less at the beginning would be unrealistic. But given that I learn to sew competently and don't rush through projects, would the quality of my garments be consistently inferior to machine-stitched ones?

>> No.7389899

>>7389860
possibly? show me a nice, breathable poly and I'll change my mind. all the ones I've seen in fabric stores are icky and I wouldn't use them in my clothes if you paid me.

keep in mind I don't live anywhere near a major fashion district though

>> No.7389942

>>7389890
Not necessarily, hand stitching is far from obsolete. They would just take longer and you may have some difficulty with heavy fabrics. You
You just need to be sure to have nice even stitches and make sure your finishing is excellent.
I personally resort to hand sewing for hemming and inserting zippers.
You can get a decent machine for under $100.
I would personally suggest looking on amazon and the brother machines, and then checking out a local craigslist.

>> No.7389954

>>7389899
It's very possible that your local sewing stores simply don't stock high-grade polyester. Which is a shame, because it can emulate silk (hence why it is used alongside more natural fabrics like silk and wool in high fashion and haute couture).

>> No.7389964

>>7389867
Thank you!

>> No.7390007

>>7388500
Seconding this recommendation, also try and get the old version if you can, since it covers more stuff.

>> No.7390015

>>7389867
Thanks, OP!

I unfortunately can't provide scans as I don't have a scanner, but if anyone needs more information, I have all four books and can give details?

>> No.7390538

Is there any way to repair a pair of tights? I just wore my new pair of AP tights out, and now there's a hole/run where my toe was. At least I got them half off, but still.

>> No.7390559

>>7390538
You can put clear nail polish at the top and bottom of the run to help keep it from running any further, but I'm not sure about actually sure about mending them...

>> No.7391978

>>7389664
you obviously don't know shit about fabrics.

have fun spending half your life ironing that shit

>> No.7392095 [DELETED] 

u..uhm excuse my very noob question, but how do I actually go about transferring the pattern from the GLB/otome thingy to the fabric?

>> No.7392134

>>7391978
There's truth to this. I made a dress in 100% cotton and i have to iron that shit every time I wear it. I also made a blouse and that shit already wrinkled once I put it on. i'm starting to make a second blouse and I'm having more success with a cotton poly blend that doesn't wrinkle so easily.

>> No.7393258
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>> No.7393261
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7393261

>> No.7393263
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>> No.7393283
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>> No.7393297

>>7386740
where are you getting yours for that price then? im not seeing any ofthe 4 books for under $28 myself.

>> No.7393321

>>7393297
I got mine from Yesasia with free shipping.

>> No.7393327

>>7384330
Yes please I would absolutely love a blog like that! You're right that the current lolita sewing blogs only really talk about super basic stuff that isn't even really specific to lolita. If I just want to make a simple rectangle skirt I could figure it out myself or look at hundreds of other sewing blogs online. And then most really good loli seamstresses only post their end result and don't have time to explain every little step in detail (when someone does ask them it's usually "oh just trial and error" or yeeaarrrss of classes which is understandable but not very helpful) so figuring out certain things that seem to only be used in lolita clothes nowadays can be quite a challenge. I also find step-by-step guides with beautiful outcomes to be the most inspirational thing.

>> No.7393753
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7393753

Can we talk about loliable knits as well? I got this yarn a couple of days ago, but I don't know what I want to make. It's barely enough for a cardigan, and I'm tired of making lace shawls.

>> No.7398827

bump, don't die yet thread!

>> No.7398858
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7398858

>>7398827
Ah! an updated for ya'll if you haven't seen please feel free to comment/ ask questions!
>http://egl.livejournal.com/19574046.html

>> No.7400327

>>7389899
Moitié uses a lot of polyester and poly blends. Honestly I'm not sure if they even have any 100% cotton dresses, but nobody's complaining.
Is everything in your local stores clearly labelled? Maybe you've come across nice poly before but just didn't realize it. I used to have an aversion to it too because I thought all polyester was cheap and costumey looking, but then I realized one of my favourite (non-lolita) dresses was 100% polyester. I'd just overlooked all the nice stuff, thinking it was real silk or wool or whatever.

>> No.7400378
File: 61 KB, 422x580, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7400378

I have until the autumn semester starts to sew a loli wardrobe. That is, in addition to the few Taobao pieces I have on order. I have volumes 5-13 of gosurori and my first project will be pic related... though as a skirt, or at least a dress with a more flattering bodice. I'm thinking a lightweight, semi-sheer material for the underskirt like chiffon. Sound like a good choice?

>> No.7400389

>>7400378
sure? if you're comfortable sewing it then go for it.

>> No.7400400

>>7400327
this. I have recently made a dress out of 100% cotton. wrinkles like a bitch. I'm gonna try to go for poly blends next time, because holy crap I hate ironing. I also like rayon. so nice.

>> No.7400409
File: 542 KB, 648x576, 1393599968812.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7400409

>>7393753
I can provide few knit inspo, despite i haven't patterns.

>> No.7400427
File: 52 KB, 500x407, tumblr_mub3hcCHPt1qiqzkxo1_500.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7400427

>>7400409

>> No.7400442
File: 237 KB, 1080x480, mathilde thread and needles.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7400442

>>7400427

>> No.7400449
File: 238 KB, 461x670, luna scarf.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7400449

>>7400442

>> No.7400452
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7400452

>>7400449

>> No.7400456
File: 97 KB, 562x375, mid-IMG_0184web.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7400456

>>7400452
I know you said you don't want a shawl, but these ones are beautiful

>> No.7400460
File: 106 KB, 600x725, 1393601895459.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7400460

>>7400456

>> No.7400465

I just want to throw this out there to people thinking about making their own lolita clothing to sell:

Please, please learn how to make a proper lapped zipper. Do not throw invisible zippers on everything. They are, structurally speaking, weaker than a lapped (will not last nearly as long) and unless you really have perfected putting them in, they are going to hang at everything seam that they zip past.

Lapped zippers look really really nice IMO and are very sturdy and easy to zip past seams.

>> No.7400468

>>7400465
I'm nowhere near selling my stuff, but I've recently decided that back zippers are really stupid and that I'll be doing side zippers from now on

>> No.7400506

>>7400468
Yes side zippers and lapped are best since you'll want shirring in the back for selling to help with fits.

>> No.7400818

>>7400452
This is lovely. I wish I could knit. I'm awful at it.

>> No.7401417

>>7389890
Hand sewing is like stress relief for me. You fall into a rhythm and it becomes almost meditative. Up until recently I'd sew infrequently at random. For the past two months though...
Anyway maybe you or others will find some of this useful:

-Basting. Baste everything.
-Sew with a single thread. It is so much better than double thread (buttons excepted) just try it, you'll see.
-Worthwhile supplies: *sharp* scissors, tailor's chalk, graph paper.
-Nearsighted? Wear glasses? Take them off to sew.
-Sew test scraps!! See what works best for what you're trying to do. That way you don't have to backtrack or start over if something you thought would work ends up sucking.
-Speaking of which, no matter how relaxed you get never lay down and continue to sew! Lol. Is bad. I promise.

>thread, meet needle
There are ~5 ways of knotting the thread's end once it's needled. Each has pros and cons. IMO they all take too long.
So instead, I take three very small stitches right on top of each other in the same spot to anchor the thread. It's quicker, less tedious, equally as secure, and there's no knot bump to conceal.
...there is a tail, however. Always tuck your tails.

When you run out of thread you can either do this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNCpQiTd3zc and keep going, or you can tie down your last stitch and start fresh.
The finishing knot method I prefer is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jNbpyy-ASw and an alternative method is http://youtu.be/-ykb53WfINk?t=1m46s

>how2sew
Step 1 - Make stitch. 2 - Pull needle through. 3 - Repeat.
Simple enough, right? Eh, not always lol. But I've found that if you hold the eye of the needle during Step 2 (rather than the tip or the middle) things go much more smoothly. Keeps thread needled if sewing single. Keeps strands even if sewing double (which means less having to stop and find+isolate+fix whichever strand didn't pull through all the way. ...ugh that shit drove me nuts for weeks!!)

(cont. next post)

>> No.7401429

>tools
Short needles for structural stitches
Long needles for basting stitches
Tapestry needle to ctrl-z stitches

>materials & handling
Pre-shrunk fabric is best fabric. Wash & dry before you start cutting.
Press fabric flat before marking/cutting. (pressing = kinda like ironing, only you go up and down instead of side to side). Press seams as you finish sewing them (it "sets" the stitches with/into the fabric and it keeps the pieces of your garment laying as they should during construction). Use steam. Mind the heat settings.

Cutting direction matters, and stretch fabric isn't the best choice for a first project. If you aren't sure why I say this, google woven vs knit fabric and look at the properties of each.

Polyester thread can stretch a bit. Cotton thread cannot.
Unsure which you have? Add some fire. Polyester/all synthetic fibers will melt; cotton/all naturals will burn.

>(these are personal favorites, this list is by no means comprehensive)
>> name - useful for - why it gets cool points <<
back stitch - seams - strongest
ladder stitch - joining - invisible
catch stitch - hem - stretches
slip stitch - hem - invisible
zigzag stitch - seams - stretches
cross stitch - seams - decorative
blanket stitch - edges - decorative
running stitch - gathering - optional basting upgrade available

Ladder and slip are verrrry similar. Functionally this analogy is probably pretty inaccurate, but it illustrates the formation difference:
ladder is to slip as back is to prick.

Don't pull stitches too tightly, particularly hems.

Short, taut, even stitches are win.

>halp!
some youtubers with good hand sewing vids:
MonkeySee - thorough & concise, well paced, close-up detail shots
Threads - old school lady who knows her shit; 'nuff said
Laura McCracken - informative but tends to ramble, work is very neat and precise, close-up shots are impeccable

Coats and Clark website has a few great resources in their help section. The PDFs on seams, hems, & marking are well worth a look.

>> No.7401435

>>7401417
>>7401429
Also, to those of you with more experience who actually know what they're doing, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO RIP THESE TWO POSTS APART!!
Seriously. I don't want to be giving out wrong info, plus if I'm going about something the wrong way I'd like to know about it so I can improve and do it right~

>> No.7401565
File: 93 KB, 991x718, 1391569601391.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7401565

>>7401417
>>7401429
>>7401435

Anon, you are a godsend, especially for someone who just today figured out how to do a back stitch correctly.

Thank you so much for the tips!
I'm not really sure what you mean by sewing with a single thread, though. How would you keep the needle from slipping off if it wasn't double threaded?

>> No.7401590

>>7401565
Not OP, but you basically hold the loose end of the thread as if it was a kind-of-not-really double thread.

>> No.7401724

>>7401565
Yay!! I'm so happy to hear that, I can't even tell you haha!

To answer your questions, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tiso-dAdY3U does a good job explaining the difference between single and double threaded. For the other question, that's what I was talking about in the how2sew section of my first posts. If you pinch the eye of the needle when you pull it through to make your stitches, you're effectively preventing the thread from slipping off the needle because you're holding it in place.

Being able to slip the thread off actually does come in very handy sometimes! That's one of the reasons I've come to like sewing single thread so much.

>> No.7402390
File: 36 KB, 888x472, meas.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7402390

I'm planning on making some clothing to sell, and I'm having a difficult time deciding which standards I should use for my sizing.
Should I offer a size S, M, and L? Or just M and L? I'm planning on offering shirring and back lacing on all of my items, just so they can be more versatile.
I have two adjustable dressforms, so I have a pretty wide range to choose from, being -
Bust: 83cm - 114cm
Waist: 63cm - 92cm
Hips: 86cm - 116cm

>> No.7402401

>>7402390
It depends how big S, M and L are. I'm a UK8 (which is a US6), and I have to buy L sizes on Taobao. If we had S, M etc sizes here I'd be S or XS. If your smallest size will still be quite small, you can probably just do M and L. If you want your L size to be very big, you probably need to offer S as well.

The main thing you need to think about is your client base. If you're making cheap clothes, you should make a bigger range of sizes to cover all the girls who can't afford brand. If you're going to be charging brand prices, you'll probably mostly be selling to girls who can afford brand, but don't have it for other reasons, which are mostly likely to be size, in which case you should focus more on larger sizes, maybe with a token small size. Most brands create their own grading rules dependent on their target market, which is why a 10 in Primark might be closer to a 12 in Topshop, for example.

>> No.7404006

>>7389664
>>7391978
Adding to the fabric debate I suppose, but I'm looking to sew a few JSKs and blouses. I took a look through Lolibrary and these seem to be the most common fabrics used by brands (particularly AP):
Broad 100% Cotton, 100% Cotton Burberry, Twill, 100% Cotton Crepe de Chine, 100% Cotton Jacquard
I've also seen recommendations for both Georgette and Sateen fabrics.
/cgl/, what do you recommend for me to use? And if I decide to get custom printed fabric, does that change which sort of fabric I should pick?

>> No.7404188

>>7389890

Hand sewing isn't looked down on just because it's obsolete, blood sweat etc, it's also because the last few hand sewn garments we've seen came from beginners who were really sloppy about both their actual work and their presentation.

Other than learning how to sew, you also need to learn general garment construction skills, such as making sure the patterns fit you (and how to adjust if they don't), choosing a design that's not ita, finishing and seaming techniques, choosing the right fabric for what you're doing, when and how to add interfacing, etc, etc.

My advice is to start learning the actual stitches on something small, such as headbows, pouches, then move up to pillowcases (you can add ruffles and hand embroidery to make them more lolita if you like) before moving up to a rectangle skirt. At this point you're either going to get the hang of it, or really feel like investing in a sewing machine to sew more quickly so that you can concentrate on actually making things.

When making things, chose a blind stitch for hems so that it's invisible from the outside, that way you don't have to worry about people noticing the stitches are uneven. Avoid top stitching anything if you can for the same reason, use a blind stitch if instructions call for top stitching. Always press all your hems and seams, it really makes a difference. Make triple sure that all your straight lines actually are straight. Never skimp on any of the non-sewing steps. The "sewing" part is actually the easy, mindless part, hence why most people prefer to use a sewing machine.

When taking photos of your final garment, make sure you pay attention to things like ironing or steaming your garment, making sure you're wearing a petticoat, lighting, and at least have some basic coordination (coordinated socks/shoes/nice hair). Do not post tl;dr text about how your wrinkled sack dress is totally a princess dress if you can't make it look good.

>> No.7406489
File: 80 KB, 240x320, 105P201-mune.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7406489

I need tips as to how to make this kind of top for my dress.
I mean the chest part is pretty clear, but I'm wondering about the lower part, if I should make it corst-like. I also want to add shirring in the back in case I'd like to sell the dress sometimes, so I wonder if working on a corset construction is worth it or if it should be like a simple tube of fabric.

>> No.7409146

sorry for this noob question, but how do I actually transfer the patterns from a magazine onto the fabric?

>> No.7409305

>>7409146
is there a pattern sheet? if there is you trace the pattern and then use that to cut out your pattern. if you are drafting, you draw that pattern on a sheet of paper and again use it to cut it out.
if you have never used a pattern. try a commercial pattern first.

>> No.7409386

>>7409305
thank you.
I was wondering more about how to copy the seam allowance (since they are kind of in the patter, and I can't just draw around it, if that makes sense) and the markings (dunno if that's the correct word in english)
and how to deal with the tracing paper and fabric's overall wobblyness

>> No.7409397

>>7409386
would you be able to take a picture of the pattern?
have you sewn before?

>> No.7409526

>>7388500
just got a copy! Thanks for the recommendation, it's even better than I expected.

>> No.7409533

>>7376469
I always felt I was too big for lolita

>> No.7410508
File: 532 KB, 800x651, dressy dress.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7410508

I sewed a dress from a lolita mook I bought at a used Japanese bookstore, and I'm quite pleased with how it came out! (if anyone wants them, I can post scans or a picture of the mook to know which edition it is since I can't read Japanese for shit) I'm not actually into lolita fashion, but I've been wanting to get into it for a while, does anyone think this dress will still work for lolita? Should I add anything to make it more appropriate?

>> No.7410594
File: 288 KB, 500x666, honeycake.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7410594

Any suggestions or advice on turning a full shirred back JSK into a quarter shirring panel? Or how to explain to a seamstress of what I'm looking for? I don't really care about the resale value of my dresses.

>> No.7410631

>>7410594
Why not show her the picture?

>> No.7410637

>>7410508
what's going on with the gathering in the front? is it half gathered/half pleated or something?

>> No.7410652

Does anyone know how to make those rosettes that are oh so popular? Can't seem to find it via search engine.

>> No.7410673

>>7410631
Unfortunately the images on lolibrary and hellolace are really tiny. Is it fairly common for most seamstresses to know shirring panels+corset lacing?

>> No.7410687

>>7410637

It's a box pleat, when I laid it on the floor it looks gathered I guess

>> No.7410707

does anybody have a decent cupcake/bell shaped petticoat tutorial?

>> No.7410719

>>7410652
I've asked before and I didn't get any help. I can tell you there is a rosette tutorial in Volume 4 of Otome no Sewing.
http://www.kinokuniya.com/us/index.php/fbs003?common_param=9784834736809

They're out of stock on kinokuniya but they can always see if they can find it.

>> No.7410779
File: 318 KB, 466x700, you can call me fat its okay.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7410779

More progress, I just need to tweak the top a little, trim the lace, and handsew the lining shut and I can put this away. I'm happy with the quality and fit!

>>7383627
I cheated. It's just machine embroidered lace I appliqued on.

My dress form is a PGM dress form, size 4. It's bee padded and covered to keep it clean and to match my measurements a little more. Mine needs a new cover, though.

>>7406489
Do you mean corset as in adding boning? You won't need boning but having darts/princess seams or curving the entire front and back piece will make it fit your body much better. Hopefully I'm making sense?

>>7410707
It's rectangles upon rectangles upon rectangles. Would not recommend.

>> No.7410795

>>7410707
basically
>figure out how long you want it
>add seam allowances, and divide by the number of tiers you want (I always make the tiers longer than I want it just in case)
>First tier is waist measurements x2
>double that for second tier
>double second tier for third
>keep doubling the rest of the tiers if there's more
Now you can either close the tiers then ruffle and sew the tiers together, or ruffle and sew the tiers together, then sew it shut. All you have to do now is put the elastic in and hem it, assuming it's longer than you want it.

>the more tiers there are, the poofier it's going to be

The petticoat I made, the bottom tier was 44 feet, so make sure you're going to be able to handle that much fabric.

>> No.7410820

>>7406489

I think the easiest way to go about it is to use a princess-seam bodice pattern that you've already tried and know it works. Sew the loops directly into the seams of the lower part of the bodice where you want the corset lacing to be while you're making up the bodice. Then sew some lace over the top of that.

For the top, gather the chiffon and sew it to the top before you attach the lining/facing, so the top is not actually a seperate piece, it just has gathered chiffon sewn onto it.

I don't suggest doing actual boned corset unless you actually want it to do something like hold your stomach in or whatever. I also don't suggest doing just a rectangular tube for the middle as most girls still need some shaping for that part of the dress. So using a princess-seam bodice where the pattern already fits you and all the seams are in the right place to add the corset ribbon is the easiest.

>> No.7410873

>>7409386

Here's the way I usually do things (not really officially right I guess):
- I transfer the patterns without seams, then I draw the seams in freehand. They're always outside the pattern pieces anyway, and you need the pattern lines more than the seam allowance. Just make sure you leave enough space between pattern pieces for the seam allowances.
- For darts, once the pattern has been transferred out of the magazine (I trace the entire dart) I use a hole puncher or a pair of scissors to make a hole at the point of the dart on the paper pattern. When transferring to fabric, you can put your chalk or pen directly into the hole to mark the point of the dart, then make a little mark where the dart lines are on the edge of the pattern then take off the pattern and join the edges of the dart lines to the point of the dart.
- Notches generally mark things like which part of the sleeve needs to line up with the shoulder seam, so instead of cutting actual notches, I use a red pen to mark an arrow on my paper pattern where they will be. When I transfer them onto fabric, I draw a line perpendicular to the pattern, then continue adding seam allowance, cutting, etc as usual. Later, I use the perpendicular line as my guide. Two notches = two lines and so on.

>> No.7410876

>>7410873

For fabric wobblyness:
- use 100% cotton when you first start sewing. It's the least wobbly.
- Lay your fabric out flat on either a large table, or use the floor and kneel. Nothing like fabric draped over a small table to really distort it.

For working with wobblier fabric I've also done things like making a full paper pattern, so instead of "cut on fold" or "cut two of these" I actually had two paper pieces, a large unfolded middle piece. Then I sprayed it with spray adhesive, laid the fabric out on the floor and made sure the fabric was mostly straight by adding weights, then stuck the paper patterns to the fabric before doing any pattern tracing. Mostly I even leave the patterns on until it's time to sew, so I can refresh any faded pattern marks. It's quite time-consuming though, since I don't know how to store the adhesive patterns afterwards so I have to make a new set each time.

I find tracing paper fiddly too, that's why I don't use it.

Hope that helps

>> No.7410904

>>7410508
please do post the scans!

>> No.7410938

>>7410508
I have that fabric too. Glad to know it looks good as a dress.
Also I like your dress.

>> No.7410999
File: 517 KB, 1280x1052, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7410999

>>7410652
Try looking up blue ribbon or prize ribbon. I'm not sure why people don't, cus that's what they are.
Here's the thing from otome vol 4

>> No.7411040
File: 178 KB, 751x691, 1394026095577.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7411040

>> No.7411886

>>7410873
>>7410876
thank you very much anon, that helped a lot!
I will give it a try.

>> No.7412835

>>7410876
>It's quite time-consuming though, since I don't know how to store the adhesive patterns afterwards so I have to make a new set each time.
Are you familiar with freezer paper? I've not used it myself yet as I'm still all kinds of new at this, but you might find it useful. From what I've read about it online, freezer paper seems perfect for exactly this sort of application. Most grocery stores carry it.

>> No.7412842

>>7410779

Is the waistline of the skirt meant to have that dip in the front? Intentional or not, it looks kinda wonky, like you didn't compensate for the weight of the skirt or the contour of the bodice enough

>> No.7413925

>>7412842
The original bodice had a V point at the front, but I patterned it too shallow/didn't accommodate a new bust shape and it ended up rounded like that. It's a very funky, but it made more sense from the side, where the seam slants downward.

It's probably my biggest shame but I didn't have enough fabric to cut a new front.

>> No.7414483
File: 866 KB, 800x1131, 20140306_00001-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7414483

>>7410904

I've been fighting with my old scanner to try and get it to work, but I think it's permanently dead... so sorry that the scans are really shitty, and they get a little bit cut off since the scanner has really wonky settings.

Here is the pattern that I used for my dress:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0qq7rl9l2p3nr4k/20140306_00001.pdf

>> No.7414486
File: 713 KB, 800x1131, 20140306_00002-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7414486

>>7410904

Here's a pattern to another dress that I thought looked really lovely, but probably a little too difficult for my skills right now:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zyua2v0n54xeeny/20140306_00002.pdf

(also, sorry again that some of the pages are upside down, I don't know how to rotate individual pages, and I'm too lazy to find out)

>> No.7414495
File: 1.12 MB, 800x1131, 20140306_00003-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7414495

>>7410904

This one is a pattern for a blouse and a skirt:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wippj1fhf55iubk/20140306_00003.pdf

and these are a couple pages for making petticoats:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vjky6r0kq4lipra/20140306_00004.pdf

Those pages in particular got really cut off, so I might try rescanning those and a few other dress patterns in the future.

>> No.7414506

>>7410508
That's lovely. Its very enchanted forest like. I'd love to see it worn.

>> No.7414526
File: 853 KB, 1536x2048, IMG_20140307_144339.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7414526

I'm stumped for ideas.
I have 1.50m^2 of this semi sheer fabric. I can't remember what kind of fabric it is but things like summer blouses get made from this.
Does anyone know how I can use this? Its a deep green with soft pink yellow and white flowers. Mori, lolita or Otome is what I would incorporate this with

>> No.7415125
File: 48 KB, 458x444, 6599.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7415125

bumping with a kinda has potential blouse pattern from new look (6599)

>> No.7415178
File: 18 KB, 302x299, pintuck3-03.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7415178

>>7414526
I personally wouldn't use this for lolita, but I could see it working with mori or otome.
It's quite busy so I'd recommend 'spacing it out' (I can't think of the right term to describe this) using solid-coloured accents that match one of the colours in the print. White crochet lace would probably look nice and would be easiest to find.
Also because it's so busy I'd make it into something that would be the focal point of an outfit and can be layered easily. A flowy top that can be left open, a skirt with matching shawl or head accessory, something like that. Maybe a dress with this fabric overlaying the skirt portion and as a peter pan collar, with a bodice in a suitable solid-coloured fabric?
Personally I wouldn't make something fidgety like a blouse out of it because I suck at working with flowy fabrics, but that's entirely up to you, haha.

>>7415125
I have used this! Beware that the high neck option is cut in such a way that even if you add buttons all the way up to the collar, you can't close it properly. If you want to make a more typically lolita high necked blouse out of this you'll have to alter the pattern a little. The pintucks are also much narrower than typical lolita pintucks and look more like pic related.

>> No.7415364
File: 5 KB, 114x171, image.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7415364

I bought a bridesmaids set at Alfred Angelo for obvious reasons. Anyways, I hate the skirt and the mini jacket of the set. After May, I hope to rip this sucker apart. Is there ANYTHING I can do to make this shiny fabric loliable at all? The answer is most likely no, but this ducker was 300 dollars. I want to feel it was at least worth half that.

Pic related is the color and shine of the outfit.

I do plan on ripping the rule out of the skirt and making a makeshift petticoat, so that's something.

>> No.7415392
File: 45 KB, 50x28, gif for ants.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7415392

>>7415364

>> No.7415396

>>7415392
my sides

>> No.7415398

>>7415364
what's it made of?

>> No.7415411

>>7415398
oh, looked it up.
>Luxe Taffeta Skirt
I don't see an issue.

>> No.7415412

>>7415398
Luxe Taffeta. In scared the only think I could turn it into would be ribbons.

>> No.7415416
File: 86 KB, 422x799, 1394221855616.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7415416

>>7415412
really, though. I think there need to be more variety with lolita fabrics.

>> No.7415437
File: 325 KB, 392x536, 1394223082020.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7415437

>>7415364

I have a very full, 50s style skirt that is not lolita but is made with this same fabric, and it's a great stand out, special occasion piece. I personally would take the fabric and make a full lolita skirt, trim the hem in a small black lace, and craft a simple top in black matte fabric (velvet, a matte silkt, etc). Keep all your fabrics of the same luxury, but let the only "shiny" or "shimmery" bit be the skirt. Think of the JeJ painting dresses but instead of a painting skirt, it's a taffeta skirt. You could embellish the top of the dress more, with subtle lace, but I'd avoid anything too ruffly. If anything go with a bow detail somewhere. Pair with a black chiffon blouse and you've got the set.

That's just a suggestion, though. The pic I've uploaded is not me, but it's the skirt I have. Mine is more poofy but I wear it with a petti.

>> No.7415470

>>7410779
looks very cute anon! looking foward to see it coordinated

>> No.7415568
File: 36 KB, 600x572, 71WYLMoKDDS._SX600_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7415568

I want to start making sentai suits, what do you guys think of the CS6000i?
I'm looking for something that can sew spandex.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JQM1DE

>> No.7415650

>>7415568
I have that!
It sews well when it has the right needle/tension. I was sewing jeans with it the other week and stupid slippery fabric this week. Just be sure to research sewing spandex with a regular machine.

>> No.7415685

>>7415416
I bought some gorgeous dupioni I want to make something with, but it was expensive and I'm terrified of ruining it with a boring or ugly design. I want to do something really tailored and sleek. Sort of Millefleurs or Atelier Pierrot in style, with chiffon accents and structured bows. But. I'm so terrified to even cut it.

>> No.7415907
File: 6 KB, 194x259, images.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7415907

>>7415364
It would be hard to make an actual traditional lolita dress out of taffeta. I'd keep the lines very clean and simple, probably an A-line with princess seams. I have seen similar dresses from Excentrique and VM and they look nice. But the taffeta will give it more of a formalwear look so you have to keep that in mind when coordinating. You could also try adding more fabric to it, like a chiffon or lace overlay to offset the shininess but it cost you enough already so you might not want to sink more money into the project.

You could also go the lolita-inspired route with something that's not really in the style but sort of works with the general aesthetic of classic (much of current JetJ falls into this category). Pic related is from VM; while pencil dresses aren't lolita style, the dress very much fits overall VM's look with its detailing.

>> No.7415908
File: 51 KB, 232x313, 6326123340_86f86e355f.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7415908

>>7415907
And here's an example of the lace overlay I mentioned.

>> No.7415933

Needing opinions on construction!

I'm fairly busty unfortunately and get 'squished' in my dresses. I know the general lolita look is to have a fairly flat bodice line but I'm considering making a dress that accommodates my bust rather than attempts to flatten it.

Terrible idea or forgivable?

>> No.7416077

>>7415364
If you re-purpose the fabric, the taffeta can easily be toned down by using a sheer fabric over it! A high quality lace would look lovely, but a simple gathered taffeta skirt, with a chiffon ruffle, would be still be really lovely. I'm a sucker for simple shapes and designs.

>>7415470
Thank you! I'm working on accessories right now.

>>7415568
That's the sewing machine I'm using in the background! It's not a powerhorse by any means, but it's really simple to use and easy to maintain. All the accessories it comes with make it a wonderful machine at its price, but if sew for long hours and days you'll need to move onto sometime stronger.

>>7415933
That's normal, lolita brands use flatter bodice lines because it saves money in production and flatters their Japanese market more. Don't be afraid to embrace your bust!

>> No.7416104

>>7415933
three words for you my busty buddy:
FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT
look it up.
it's so fucking easy to do it's not even funny.
most commercial patterns are sized for a 'B' cup. (i.e. 2" difference between high bust and full bust)

>> No.7416189

Here's a tutorial site with a massive amounts of sewing and other tutorials:
www.thecraftylolita.com

>> No.7416191

Shit I'm dumb, I forgot to write the livejournal part of that link. ><

www.thecraftylolita.livejournal.com

>> No.7416470

/r/ing any loliable patterns that can be bought online like >>7415125
bonus points for: cute nightgowns, underskirts, bloomers, blouses, skirts, jumperskirts, hair accessories & headdresses, corsets, and room decor

>> No.7420162

Hi again thread. Hand sewing poster (>>7401435) from earlier here.

I'm trying to figure out the best way to attach fasteners to a garment that I'd like to be reversible. Have any of you ever done this?

So far the best thing I can come up with would be to put buttonholes on one side and then to put buttons on both faces of the other side and just have them slightly overlap. I've no preference as to whether the sides overlap or meet at the edges though.

Please tell me you guys have some other ideas?? I'm open to ANY suggestions here, that''s just the only thing I could think of that would look halfway decent.

>> No.7420221

>>7420162

Some ideas:

- Go with back shirring, AP does this a lot, it's easy and convenient.

- reversible zippers are a thing, but are quite bulky.

- if you're not making a tightly fitted dress, eg if you're making a blouse, or something like a mumu a la AP's polka-dotted chocolate onepiece, then you can do loops + buttons on the edges of the opening rather than buttonholes + buttons. It doesn't work for buttoning a blouse or the side of a dress because the gaps in between buttons can get quite indecent.

-- Combine options 1 and 3 -- use buttons + buttons loops for the back of a high collar dress, and put elastic around the waist to give the dress shape.

- If you do concealed button plackets, the viewer can't tell whether your buttons are facing the right side out. Make sure when you stitch the buttons on you're careful not to catch the fabric of the other side, and reinforce with some interfacing if your fabric is too delicate to handle a row of buttons on one layer.


In general though, lolita doesn't do double-sided gimmicks a whole lot, because it limits the amount of decorations you can put on. You're pretty much stuck with a plain bodice, unless you really like the feeling/look of chest ruffles on the inside of the dress rubbing against you.

>> No.7420261

>>7420221
Thank you!! Will start looking into these now, thank you so much~

Ooh um...it's not *technically* lolita tbh.
...or cosplay.
>pleasedon'tshunme! I'm starting to like it here!
Lol. But yeah it's actually just a simple garter belt. The part that will need a way to be fastened is only about 2" wide from top to bottom. Not too fancy this time around, but being able to utilize both fabrics on the outside will give me more options with it. (Plus I /might/ still butthurt and trying to redeem myself from garterbelt #2 where I used stretch fabric!)
Heh. Anyway, thanks again, the input was very much appreciated~~

>> No.7421002

Anyone have any general thoughts on selling handmade? I'd like to sell pre made items. I price below brand but not as cheap as Taobao, and I wouldn't be doing a series of original prints, which is why I'm wondering if there's potentially no demand. If you buy or would buy handmade, what do you generally look for? (Styles, sizes, fabrics, etc.)

>> No.7422048

>>7420221
Double sided gimmicks could work if the decorations were pinned bows and very flat lace/pintucks. The bows would need to compliment both color schemes, though.

>>7420261
It's alright to use the information however you use it, though it isn't really necessary to point that out. Speak confidently and let people make their own assumptions. You don't need to clarify everything to a T, keep it simple.
Garter belts are very useful for lolita and there are certainly characters with garters that one might cosplay. It's fine to let people assume that's what you're doing.

>>7421002
Maybe something I'd suggest is basic blouses. I don't know if I'm looking in the wrong places, but I can't seem to find indie blouses that have a good balance of simple pin tucks and ruffles, a puff sleeve and a long sleeve, high neck and a peterpan collar, a white and a black. Peterpan collars always seem to be giant or itty bitty nubs.
On price, how long does it take you to make these and how much for materials? Ideally you should be able to pay yourself a decent hourly and cover expenses. Ideally. Probably won't happen, though. I'm cheap, and I don't trust handmade to really be high quality. $20 I would be heavily interested, $30 sounds normal, $40 is alright, and I'd only really pay $50 if they had great detail pictures available and I could tell it was good. Keep in mind that I'm cheapo, so I might not be the best to say. But people who buy indie and handmade usually do because they can't afford big names.

>> No.7422118

>>7420261
I would want to go with a concealed hook and eye arrangement similar to a bra, that way it doesn't matter what side you see it from

>> No.7422682

Not exactly a sewing question, but I'd love to get some input on a skirt-and-vest set that I'm planning to make.

>modified commercial pattern for the vest
>box pleated skirt
>base red = medium weight poly
>dark squiggles = lace overlay

Right now I mostly can't decide what to do with the bottom of the skirt, though I'm open to concrit about other design elements. Please forgive my crap drawings. This is hem option 1, lace overlay to the edge.

>> No.7422683
File: 721 KB, 2000x2016, 1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7422683

>>7422682
Dropped my pic. This is 1.

>> No.7422684
File: 750 KB, 2000x2016, 2.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7422684

>>7422682
This is 2, extended skirt.

>> No.7422685
File: 795 KB, 2000x2016, 3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7422685

>>7422682
And 3, ruffles on the bottom made from the base fabric.

>> No.7422727

>>7378481
what's that number she's pointing to?

>> No.7422729

>>7415364
make Otome skirt out of it

or a headbow plus wristcuffs set you can coord with pitch black jsk + long coat

>> No.7422731

>>7422729
sorry I mean long sleeve jacket

>> No.7422757

>>7422682
I think it would look really cool if the insides of the box pleats had the lace overlay, and you left the bottom with a plain hem (I don't think ruffles work well on the hems of pleated skirts).

>> No.7422778

>>7422683

1>3>2 for me. I think 3 would look good if it was smaller ruffles, but large ruffles are looking awkward in my head.

If you haven't, why not look on lolibrary to see if anyone's done something similar? Victorian Maiden and mary magdalene are probably your best bets. They probably have, but I can't think off hand.

>> No.7422782

>>7422778

Wait shit I missed the bit about box pleats. I think ruffles might be a bit too much on top of the box pleats. Definitely 1 or 2 then, but i'm preferring 1 myself. It'd make an interesting hem, but still come across as simple and not overwhelming, if that makes sense.

>> No.7423045

>>7421002
I agree with >>7422048 the only thing I could see myself wanting to buy is unusual/hard to find styles and colors of blouses if your pricepoint is over taobao, as that's the only thing I ever have trouble finding.

>> No.7423073

I have two questions, the first one being that I want to make an A-line petticoat out of chiffon, but I'm not sure how much fabric I should be using for each tier. Is it like tulle where the first tier is your waist measurement, second is 2x that, third is doubled again, etc., or do I need to be using more fabric than that?

Second question, I have a shirt that would be great for either lolita or otome that I was going to tear apart and use as a pattern, but it's too small in general. Is there a good way to go about upsizing? I was thinking about making a muslin and tampering with that, but any input would be wonderful.

>> No.7423079

>>7378481
>Coffee near your patterns
SCREECH

>>7422727
The pattern number. The Japanese next to it is the pattern piece. So basically that's the yoke of pattern number 11.

>> No.7423110
File: 328 KB, 571x800, MZ7A3458.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7423110

>>7423079
That's a candle man. They make good pattern weights in a pinch.
I recently replaces them with cloth covered washers. Made about 10 for $4.
Pic related.

>> No.7423372

>>7422757
>>7422782
Thanks for the input! Sounds like I can definitely rule out the ruffles. I'll play around with it a little more to figure out proportions.

>> No.7423451

>>7423073

Actually, what you described is the A-line petti, except the first tier should already be a *minimum of 2x your waist (better if you make it 2.5-3 times your waist)

4chan won't let me post the blogspot link, if you search "sugardale petticoat" you should be able to find somebody's blog post on making her petticoat out of tulle that has all the measurements and everything.

(her petti is tulle, but the measurements should work for chiffon as well, except that chiffon would be flimsier to sew. )

As for the shirt, uhhh.... try looking up "how to grade patterns up". It's a rather more complicated thing, and it depends on how the pattern is too small as to what you do with it.

I think it's just easier to start with a pattern/shirt that already fits you but doesn't look right, then alter it to have the design you want, rather than start with a design that's good but the fit is bad.

>> No.7423907

>>7422048
>Speak confidently and let people make their own assumptions. You don't need to clarify everything to a T, keep it simple.
Good advice, thank you~

>>7422118
It dawned on me that I could sew a set of snaps on and then just have it cross left side over right to wear it one way or right side over left to wear it the other way. Kind of a facepalm moment, that. Lol. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion. I'll do this on the next one. I've got some knits that have a bit of stretch without being crazy slippery, so they should lend themselves nicely to the hook and eye closures.


The pattern is killing me though! I've fine-tuned it a bit more each time, and all's well now except for that damn little curve at the top along the side seam. I'm having such a hard time figuring out how to make it so that the fabric lays smoothly/stays flush where it goes up over my hip bones. The instructions I followed originally are from http://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/how-to-make-a-garter-belt

Not sure what I ought to be doing to adjust the fit properly. Help? Anyone, please?

>> No.7424024

>>7423451
I didn't know if working with chiffon was going to be the same as working with tulle because I keep reading "tulle relies on stiffness, but chiffon relies on the amount of fabric".

For the shirt, I'll look into the pattern grading then, worse comes to worst I'll just find something else. Thanks for the help!

>> No.7424105
File: 186 KB, 450x400, 2014-03-11-22.37.42.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7424105

Not sure if this is the right thread.

One of the tassels on a dress I recently got isn't really "bound" to the rest of the tassels because the thread broke.
How can I fix this?
I have a sewing machine if it`s relevant.

>> No.7424129

>>7424105
I would just hand stitch it to the rest of the tassels, to be honest. Using a sewing machine for such a small flaw can sometimes make it into a bigger flax (I've had heavy trims like that catch and pull fibers out).

>> No.7424130

>>7424105
I would suggest looking for a similar color embroidery floss or a clear thread and just hand stitch it down

>> No.7424156

>>7424129
>>7424130
Thanks anons.
Not much of a hand sewer though.
How would I go about stitching it down?
Sorry for the noob question.

>> No.7424175

>>7424156
I'd say backstitch each of the bits that make up the tassel down like how they did it with the other ones and maybe reinforcing those too just in case.

>> No.7424545

>>7424024

Actually I mentioned that specific blogger (sugardale) because the construction of an A-line chifon petticoat is very similar to what she made.

>> No.7424978
File: 17 KB, 400x300, half bonnet.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7424978

So, I am going to make my first lolita half bonnet and I am a bit stumped on something. Of all the tutorials I have come across, even the one I intend on using for this project, don't address this issue. I want to make this as neat and professional as possible and wanted to know how can I go about sandwiching both the hood and the ruffle at the back of the bonnet kind of like the one pictured to the left. I've been looking at a bunch of half bonnets from brands and it appears as though they managed to sandwich these two separate pieces kind of like the way they do with "old school" or "maxi pad" headdresses if that makes sense. Basically, I just want to make sure there is a piece of lining fabric underneath the top rectangular piece attaching the ruffles, hiding any edges from these pieces. I really hope I make sense as I don't really know how to explain myself about this issue. Any help is appreciated.

>> No.7425000

>>7424978
You make these the same way you make old maxi pad head dresses with ruffled/lace trim. Stitch both ruffles to the top fabric, sandwich together, sew, and leave a hole for turning. When you turn it, the ruffles will be fully attached to the top fabric and there will be a hole on the underneath side you can stitch close. Then press and edge stitch for crisp finish.

>> No.7425008

>>7425000
Thanks anon, I figured that's all I need to do but my concern is the length of the hood ruffle. How can I keep it from getting pinched over the smaller ruffle with the top fabric? Do I just need to pin ruffle back so it doesn't get caught? I hope that make sense.

>> No.7425058

>>7425008
Yeah, you just need to bunch up the hood ruffle and make sure it's not getting caught in the pins when you pin the edges of the sandwich together. If it helps, you could pin it to the middle of the top fabric, but I don't find that necessary if I pin and sew carefully. The sandwich can get a little awkward with a big ruffle crammed in it, but if you've cut the pieces accurately (so the top and bottom are the same size and on the grain) and use enough pins to keep the edges lined up and the ruffle from getting caught it comes out fine.

>> No.7425072

>>7425008
Also, If you're putting a very big, full ruffle on the front and you just can't cram it all in there, leave a bigger hole in the back and let the ruffle stick out while sewing. You'll want to sew the back corners, but you can leave almost the entire back open if necessary.

>> No.7425075
File: 876 KB, 355x325, chyeeeaaahh.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7425075

>>7425058
Thanks so much, anon!

>> No.7425898
File: 66 KB, 243x308, 1360416957179.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7425898

>new to sewing
>bought really beautiful fabric on sale
>super excited to make a kawaii skirt
>does research
>"slippery droopy fabric is one of the hardest fabric to cut"
>mfw

>> No.7425917

>>7425898
you'll be okay! As long as you have some really sharp scissors, a place to lay it out, and take your time (pin really well).

>> No.7428036

>>7425917
I've heard pinning paper over the fabric also helps to keep it in place (paper > fabric > paper > pattern). It might dull the scissors, though so you're going to want to sharpen them after.

>> No.7428042

>>7425898
Pin your pattern well and use pattern weights

>> No.7428068

>>7425917
>>7428036
>>7428042
How do I properly lay down stretch fabric?
Especially when I can't see the grain...

>> No.7428123

>>7428068
can you tell us any more about the fabric?
If you have a pattern it should show where the selvage goes

>> No.7428141
File: 162 KB, 900x1200, 1394769352284.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7428141

This isn't for Lolita, just sewing in general.

I'm receiving a strapless dress for a party. The bodice is a simple square. Is it possible to alter it into a sweetheart necklace? Like so? theres no boning in the dress, its just like an extra long tube top.

inb4: that dress is uggo

>> No.7428149

>>7428141
If there's no boning, I wouldn't risk it. It's going to droop funny without the support (unless it's stretched super tight across your tits, in which case you should've bought the next size up because that shit don't fit).
Also yeah that dress is uggo as fuck.

>> No.7428504

>>7425898
Is this "really beautiful fabric" shiny satin?

>> No.7428528

>>7428141
I'd snip I tiny little V into it, then fold the sides back (like your seam allowance) and sew it in place.
Better do it by hand imo. And you may need to remove a few sequins so it doesnt itch you.

>> No.7428529

>>7423079
ahh ok... I have the exact same pattern but not all the pieces have numbers on them coz not all of them reach the edge so I'm confused which pieces go with what?

>> No.7428531

>>7422683
2>3>1

>> No.7428672

>>7425898
Maybe put that fabric away for now and start with something else that's easier to work with. If your first project is really difficult and doesn't turn out the way you imagined it that can be really demotivating. Build up some experience first before tackling the tricky fabrics.

>>7428068
Are you planning to make a lolita skirt out of stretch fabric? How stretchy is it?

>> No.7429252
File: 317 KB, 480x640, 2014-03-14-18.20.36.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7429252

>>7428504
lol no anon, I've heard enough horror stories about satin.
thanks for the concern, though.

>>7428123
It's relatively matte and drapes a lot. Feels really good, like silk...?
I looked closer and found a grain line though, I'll use that to help me line it up.

>>7428672
Thanks anon, maybe that would be a good idea.
I played with the fabric a little more and it's not actually stretchy after all. Just moves a lot.
I'm just making a casual skirt out of it. I figured I might have to make an underskirt/built in petti though, just because of how it drapes.
I really like the print and it was on sale for like $2/meter, so I guess I got excited. ;_;

Also unrelated but how heavy of a fabric should I make an underskirt out of?
Not for this project, but just for normal lolita.

>> No.7429553
File: 38 KB, 500x342, echs internally.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7429553

>>7429252
Oh god it looks like the birds are shitting everywhere

>> No.7429562

>>7429553
ANON I CAN'T UNSEE

I'm just going to slowly put it away now...

Oh well, more incentive to start an easier project instead.

>> No.7429568
File: 584 KB, 1064x851, 1308626987673.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7429568

>>7429553
CANNOT UNSEE
Enjoy your birdshit dress anon

>> No.7429654

>>7429562
Maybe it's for the better that you're not going to use that fabric anymore haha

>> No.7429726

>>7429553
Eh. I can unsee it. Birds flying in the night sky.

>> No.7429732

My Otome no Sewing 2 arrived!
Im ready to copy the patterm to tracing paper now but I'm confused?
I'm tracing the pattern for a JSK and they only have some of the pieces. Are we supposed to hand measure the rest of the pieces?

>> No.7430006

>>7429732

Anything that are giant rectangles (basically most of the skirts) you have to draft them yourself using the measurements on the project page. Anything with curves will have patterns, keep looking until you find them.

>> No.7430031
File: 481 KB, 1200x1600, progress.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7430031

So not finished at all, but I was hoping for some solid critique.

>> No.7430037

>>7430031
Good job A+ wear it out and take lots of pictures

>> No.7430046

>>7430031
This is why I am afraid of my sewing machine despite acing some wearable textile/drafting classes!

>> No.7430051

>>7430046
because it never looks right on a manikin without pinning or because it's unfinished?

>> No.7430107

>>7430031
Please learn to interface.

>> No.7430146
File: 99 KB, 426x449, massagethepainaway.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7430146

>>7423079
In response to your second number- what about the pattern pieces that are just floating in the middle?
I'm having so much "fun" trying to find out whats what...

>> No.7430251
File: 433 KB, 1296x857, patternexplain.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7430251

>>7430146
>>7428529

Ok! Here's an infographic. Another way to check the pattern pieces is what the line looks like.
I checked all of the Otome no Sewing and they all have this feature. :)
If a pattern piece is missing, check to see if it's a rectangle.

>> No.7431613

>>7430107
I usually put that with the lining, but as this was a self drafted pattern I'm still working out a few kinks in pattern and changing a few things so I have a master pattern for the lining and interfacing.

>> No.7431673
File: 134 KB, 848x392, 1394946327457.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7431673

I'm starting to get my Otome wardrobe together, I'm looking to draft up a basic dress pattern for the Jane Marple style OP.

I'd like for it to sit on my natural waist not above it. This is a pattern I have at home I was thinking about altering.

Can I have some more experienced seamstresses opinions on it?

>> No.7431678

>>7431673
B+D+J would work well with only a little tweaking. Test dress first especially if you're hand drafting any part of it.

>> No.7431699

>>7431678
Thank you!
And, yes, I'm definitely doing a test dress.

>> No.7432043

>>7431673
>>7431678
You would need make the sleeves so that they're gathered rather than tight.
If you find that the dress doesn't sit at your natural waist, you can shorten the bodice either at the line on the pattern or about 2 inches from the bottom edge. I would google for a tutorial.
You may also want to raise the neckline a bit more.

>> No.7432201

I'm about to start beefing up a basic petti (like, the kind that child bridesmaids wear) by adding a million gathered layers of organza to it.
I'm not sure that the organza will be stiff enough, but I have it going spare from when I convinced myself I'd make a DDC inspired overskirt.

Any other poof-building tricks?

>> No.7432205

>>7382982
hey I had a couch with that same print

>> No.7432235

>>7432201
Are you going for an A-line or more cupcake shape? If you're going for A-line, tiered layers are your friend, if cupcake, I would alternate single layers with 2-tier layers. Don't add too much bulk at the waistband - you're better to add bulk slightly below.

>> No.7432283

>>7432235
A-line.
Thanks sewing friend.

>> No.7432291

>>7430031
Anon I hope that colour looks better IRL...
Because if this picture is true to life, my honest solid critique would be to trash it and start over with better fabric.

>> No.7432355

>>7430031
what's with the bows? and god that horrible color...

>> No.7432650

>>7430031

I don't hate the color, but...that's a lot of it. And the white bows are way too small to help balance it out. What other trimmings were you planning to add?

The fabric looks bedsheet-y, or like quilters' cotton. I'm a sucker for a solid-color dress, but for lolita you need higher-quality fabric, with more body and "crispness." This just looks soft and limp.

The two pick-ups on the skirt are like the bows--I get the impression you didn't know what else to do to add interest to the skirt, so you tried that. That may not be the case, but it looks timid and tentative, as if you weren't really sure what to do. The whole dress is underdesigned, frankly. If you look at even a fairly simple brand dress, many of the trims are added throughout the sewing process, rather than tacked on at the end. The dress and its trimmings are a cohesive whole. And I'm not seeing that here.

Consider this dress a learning experience. I'd go ahead and finish it as a simple, retro-inspired casual summer dress to knock around in, but not for lolita or other J-fashions.

>> No.7432679

>>7430031

Hey OP, maybe it would help if you told us your vision, ie- what dress you were trying to make, what event/effect you were making it for, and what you imagine a finished coordinate to look like.

As it is, this dress doesn't even look lolita, I don't know how to advise you.

>> No.7432800

>>7384330

Do it! And pleeaaase do sew-alongs! They are so fun and you can end up with something good actually... pleasepleaseplease

>> No.7433585

>>7430031
what is it supposed to be?

>> No.7433921

Does anyone have scans of the sewing instruction pages for GLB 50 and 51?

>> No.7434404

So I fitted a dress bodice with a full bust adjustment. It added an inch to the front, which is ok since I need to add an other 2 inches all around. Should I add this inch into the waist stay and skirt as well?

>> No.7435994

This thread is now a month old.

>> No.7436005

I'm planning on making a skirt for my first coord. I've been looking at circle skirts, as well as rectangle skirts to make. Which one do you think would be better? Also, what colors would be best? I'm not comfortable with sewing with patterned fabrics yet.

>> No.7436086

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAfuotowL3Y

>cotton petticoat
WTF is a cotton petticoat. I feel like cotton is too heavy a material to provide the poof you really need in lolita.

Does any of this shit she's saying hold true?

>> No.7436092

>>7436005
Very few lolita skirts are circle skirts, and rectangle skirts are much easier to do well if you're just learning.

>> No.7436112

>>7436086
Not a lolita, but cotton petticoats/crinolines are traditional and you starch them and they're less itchy/more breathable than synthetic.

>> No.7436542

>>7434404
usually when you need more room all around you add equally to every piece.

I'm sure you already know this, but don't just extend the edges of each pattern piece to add your width. you need to cut in the middle of each piece and re-tape with the added width.

the waist stay and skirt need to match the length of your bodice pattern all the way around the bottom. if you're confused, always measure. measure even if you're not confused. never hurts.

another trick you can use after altering a pattern quite a bit is to "walk" the edges of each piece against its neighboring piece. this shows you if any piece turned out too long or short.

last thing: I'd highly recommend making a muslin. only do the bodice if you don't feel like constructing the whole thing. the important part is making sure your adjustments went as planned.

good luck!

>> No.7436860

>>7436005
The easiest beginner lolita skirt is probably a gathered rectangle with zipper and fitted waistband. Zippers can be a bit daunting at fist but knowing how to insert them is super useful. People often suggest fully gathered skirts to beginners but elastic can be fiddly and frustrating and the finished product is never as nice or flattering as a simple fitted waistband.
As for the colour, that depends entirely on you! What colours do you like? What style do you prefer? Black, pink and red are all safe options as long as you use decent quality fabric and don't go neon. If you're not sure whether a colour works with lolita then see if the established brands use it often. Oldschool Baby and AP have a lot of cute solid-coloured stuff you can draw inspiration from.
A plain skirt can end up looking quite dull and not very lolita, though. Are you planning to add lace and other detailing? A simple row of lace along the bottom and two-three rows of pintucks can instantly make a skirt much more interesting without being too difficult for a beginner. If you don't feel up to it yet, just keep it in mind for future projects.

>> No.7436865

>>7436086
Yup, you can definitely get the poof needed for Lolita. Starch also takes really well to them.

>> No.7436896

>>7436542
Thank you! I did make a muslin (that was how I made the FBA) I just made another with the waist stay, which worked out, but I still need to some room at the waist. I understand about adding width evenly, but I don't need it anywhere else but the waist (small ribcage, large bust, full tummy, sloping shoulders, broad back) It's a 50s pattern, and I've bee pleasantly surprised so far how well it fits my back ribs.

>> No.7436923

>>7436896
Rereading your original post, it makes total sense you made a muslin! People are so averse to testing patterns I pretty much automatically recommend it.

Post pictures when you're done! I wanna see. Is it a vintage pattern?

>> No.7436929

>>7436896
(Also, adding width just at the waist is the same procedure. When you retape, your pattern pieces will be angled a bit because you only added at the waist.)

Clarification - 50s style pattern or pattern from the 50s? I'm curious what it's like working from vintage patterns. From what I've heard it's quite challenging but I've always wanted to try it! Never been able to get my hands on one myself, though.

>> No.7437195
File: 136 KB, 570x846, il_570xN.533968191_139l.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7437195

>>7436923
>>7436929
Ok! Thanks again. :)
It is a vintage pattern from 1955, I'm doing view 1. I usually get my patterns from etsy. I don't buy if they're more than a size smaller than I am ( I go off of high bust for most), or if they cost more than a new commercial pattern. I treat my patterns like ones from books, I retrace them and go from there. There's some interesting techniques that have kinda fazed out of modern sewing, like waist stays and shoulder darts, but they're like any other pattern!

>> No.7437300

>>7437195
wow, that's so cute!

I heard it was hard because the instructions are vague and assume a lot of previous knowledge. at this point I could just draft whatever pattern I like, but I think I'll look into getting one anyway just to see how they construct things. I'll lurk etsy, thanks!

>> No.7437325

>>7437300
once you start getting in to the 50s, the instructions on the patterns are more (i.e not a bunch of circles and squares)
I don't mind having to look stuff up, so I generally don't notice is a pattern is being vague. Gertie's blog for better sewing and we sew retro are a good places to start if you're interested.

>> No.7439274

>tfw you realize you need to shorten the bodice

>> No.7439443

>>7439274
>tfw you need to shorten the bodice on a finished button-down dress
Cry with me, anon.

>> No.7439582
File: 9 KB, 197x255, url-1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7439582

>>7439443
I will, sort of, I'm making a button down too. I'm working with the muslin, but I feel so lazy about it. UGH.

>> No.7442985
File: 424 KB, 683x1024, echarpe.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7442985

I am at a loss as to make an "echarpe(?)" I've noticed these sashes becoming more popular last year and even saw a few on a Store Envy I am lusting after. I figured, however, that I can make one myself. I just don't know what to do as far as drafting a pattern. I've never even seen a sash like this in person. Anons, could you halp?

>> No.7442998

>>7442985
Are you fucking serious anon?

These sashes are just a loop. Literally, a strip of fabric looped and secured with a bow pin will do the job.

>> No.7443015
File: 962 KB, 500x281, chill the fuck out.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7443015

>>7442998
To me it seems a little more complicated than that. I just need to know the appropriate length, mostly. The bow part is something I am not even worried about. Basically, looking for pointers on basic construction.

>> No.7443022

>>7443015
It's literally just a long straight piece of fabric, anon. There's not any construction to really worry about.

I'd interface it, if that's what you mean. But that's really all I can think of.

It's a long straight piece of fabric, and then you pin the end, and cover the pin with a bow.

>> No.7443045

>>7443015
Oh my god I cannot even.
It's a strip of fabric. If you want to interface it to make it stiffer you can. If you want to add fucking ribbon and shit to it, go nuts. If you need to know how long it is, wrap a fucking string over one arm and under the other and measure how long it is.

Use your brain.

>> No.7443070
File: 470 KB, 100x100, on the rag.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7443070

>>7443045
I am so fucking thankful for your fucking response, fucking anon. I am just going to go Goddamn fucking ball sac crazy with motherfucking ribbon and Goddamn other bits n' fucking bobs. Fucking thank you you fucking anon.

>> No.7443092
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7443092

>>7442985
Goodness, anons, entirely too much hostility on both of your parts!

Let me help, OP Anon--- these are called "baldrics" and they're often seen on old fashioned royal or military outfits to denote rank! (It's also the word for the leather belts/harnesses that hold swords, though, so Google won't turn up too much of a good result for other pictures.)

If you're trying to figure out how long you want to make it, simply take a measuring tape and drape it over your shoulder until it hits where you want it to meet at your hip-area. Then add on length to each side for how much extra you want hanging down off of the meeting point. Pretty simple! If you're still having trouble picturing the length, try using a long scarf as a stand-in to picture what it might look like on yourself/what length you might want it.

>> No.7443143
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7443143

>>7443092
Thanks anon for being helpful and not being a snippy cunt. Great tips!

>> No.7443324

>>7443015
god, you're retarded beyond retarded. theres no hope for you.

>> No.7443330

>>7442998
Yeah but are escharpe/sashes completely straight when laid out or slightly curved to allow for nice draping off the shoulder?
It was a reasonable question if you ask me

>> No.7443335
File: 21 KB, 300x399, Unbenannt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7443335

>>7443330
AP makes theirs straight but it creates a dumb looking buckle near your neck. I prefer it sewn in where it lays flat on your shoulder.

>> No.7443384
File: 9 KB, 192x262, images.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7443384

>>7443335
That's why you pin it in place.
>google Royal Splendor 101: Sashes and Stuff, Part 1

>> No.7443606
File: 47 KB, 499x376, get laid cunt.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7443606

>>7443324
I LYKE CHOCOLATE MEEEEHLK

Captch: cowl dantag

>> No.7443678

>>7443606
If we give you the last word, will you stop shitting up the thread with your retardation?

>> No.7444305
File: 57 KB, 500x380, 420blazefaggot.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7444305

>>7443678
I'll take "The Last Word" for $200, Trebek.

>> No.7444369

>>7443335
Right well then I'm glad I know now since I also wanted to make one


>>7443384
thanks!

>> No.7444388
File: 103 KB, 352x397, chickenskirtwip.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7444388

Going to be using this Mccall's pattern I already own to make a lined skirt with quilting cotton. I found this chicken print series of quilting cottons that I really liked, so I made a vector image of *roughly* what the pattern looks like and played around a bit with designs. It's not really working out yet, but the bottom left is decent I suppose. Pic related, it's the designs I'm talking about.

Pattern:
http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6570-products-22761.php?page_id=113

>> No.7444402

>>7444388
have you made the pattern with quilting cotton before? It doesn't usually drape the way you'd expect...

>> No.7444420

>>7444402
I haven't, you are an astute anon to point this out. I wonder if it's worth it to buy twice as much fabric as I need.

>> No.7444439

>>7444420
I bought some quilting cotton when I was having trouble finding fabric in the colour I wanted, then used it with my normal pleated skirt pattern...it was so stiff! Some patterns probably take it better than others though.

>> No.7447620
File: 310 KB, 498x747, veil.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
7447620

How would you attach a veil to a bow like this?

>> No.7447803

>>7400465
Agreeing with this, a lot of brand has lapped zippers.

On another note, does anybody have scans from otome no sewing?

>> No.7447836

>>7444388
>>7444402
>>7444439
Quilting cotton is heavily starched because it needs to stay stiff so it can be cut into the right shapes. Wash it a couple times with hot water (make sure the dye is washable first) and maybe a touch of fabric softener and it will be fine.

I make hats with print linings, and I use quilting cotton all the time because it has the cutest prints.

>> No.7448035

>>7447803
The only time I usually see lapped zippers on brand is skirts? Dresses are almost exclusively hidden zippers, they're much too obvious on a dress which is why hidden zippers are used...

>> No.7448072

>>7448035
Its like you've never seen an AP JSK or something.

>> No.7448133

>>7448072
>usually
>almost
It's like you don't know what a qualifier is or something.

>> No.7449645

>>7448035
> lapped zipper
> obvious

uh, not really. Especially if it's in the side seam.

>> No.7450242

>>7393753
Try tiny owl knits. They have a ton of fanciful/twee shit and a lot of it would work for lolita.

>> No.7452872

>>7447620
handsew the lace/tulle to the middle of the bow?
Not really sure whats so complicated about this.

>> No.7453311

If anyone is interested Otome no Sewing #5 is supposed to be coming out on April 22nd. (if Amazon.jp is right) :)