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/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

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10297007 No.10297007 [Reply] [Original] [rbt]

Let’s here about your projects, gulls.
Previous thread #10223121

>> No.10297008

Hear, not here, I suck

>> No.10297009

How hard am I going to be judged if I use a normal zipper on the back of my OP instead of an invisible zipper?

>> No.10297010

Op, are you drunk?

>> No.10297016

Not to be a twat, but why? Visible zippers are a look, and if you're going for punk, it will work. But if you spend time and money making something, but fuck up a finishing detail like that, I don't think you'll be happy will with it.

>> No.10297022

I hate that they always get stuck and that they’re so fiddly, so it’s really just for ease of getting it on and off since I live alone

>> No.10297023

You could do a flap over the zipper to hide it

>> No.10297026

Hm. Personally I find back zips easier than side ones. I would make sure to buy a good zipper and then grease it with a candle. I'm not going to lie, I think a chunky exposed zipper will ruin the aesthetic. But, it's your dress. If a regular zip means you wear it, put one in.

>> No.10297029

Just leave a little extra space around the zip. It'll be much less intrusive than a regular zip and the fabric won't get stuck.

>> No.10297032

I will judge you like the snake I am you if i see you using a normal fugly zipper.
fine wear your ugly zipper with pride you ass.

>> No.10297041

I save my judgement for people who don't press their seams. I need all of it, so I can judge hard.

>> No.10297060

This may be a really dumb question but I’ve been looking on YT for girls sewing from OnS patterns and noticed that a lot of them draw their patterns from scratch instead of tracing from the sheet that comes with the book. Why do they do this, when they own the books and presumably also the pattern sheets? I guess they might be deviating from the standard SML sizing but none of them mention this.
I’d ask them directly, but a lot of these vids are several years old + I’m probably just being a dumbass.

You can do a lapped zipper. Many of my IW pieces have them, though usually in the side seam.

>> No.10297064

Alright, I caved. I just went to Joann's and bought an invisible zipper. Thanks gulls

>> No.10297212

Not all of the patterns come on the sheet, some come with drafting instructions.

>> No.10297248

Where do you go to get custom laces? Hopefully not too big a batch because I just make things for me to wear, no bigger-scale production.

>> No.10297324

You did the right thing.

>> No.10297329

They could be working off of scans. They could be experienced enough to draft from pictures and make adjustments on the fly. If you have a long torso, you're going to need to add an inch. I use the pattern sheets. And if your Spidey senses is tingling, there's probably a typo somewhere.

Oh no gulls, we've done some good. Better go kick a puppy.

>> No.10297693
File: 72 KB, 385x508, lapped zipper.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I guess you've made your decision already, but honestly I think the other seagulls here are making a mountain out of a molehill. An invisible zipper will look good, but there are ways to sew regular zippers that look perfectly neat and tidy. You have to consider not just the look but how easy it is for you to wear - if you really don't like invisible zippers, there's no reason you absolutely need to use one.

>> No.10297695


I was about to say this. Most of my 1950s dresses have regular zippers and it's so much easier to zip them up, AND they're covered. Honestly prefer them to invisible zippers where it's hit or miss if you can zip it up the first time.

>> No.10297700

isn't this more difficult and takes more time than to just sew an invisible zipper correctly?

I like this finish, but it can get more bulky if you use thicker fabrics.

>> No.10297847

Either done properly take a similar amount of time, and the lapped zipper usually has the advantage of not getting stuck at the waist seam like an invisible zipper.

>> No.10297933

Not to mention invisible ones tend to break easier as they are not as sturdy as normal ones. I only use invisible zippers on pieces I know I'm not going to wear often (ott etc) and normal zippers on pieces I wear more reguarly.

>> No.10298651

Honestly invisible zippers are easier to deal with once you get the hang of them,

>> No.10298670

>Not all of the patterns come on the sheet, some come with drafting instructions.

besides the circle skirts and small accs, all of them come along the sheets, anon.

>> No.10298884


>> No.10298916
File: 2.95 MB, 4128x2322, 20191202_220413.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

so I dyed a bunch of different white 100% cotton laces in the same bath for roughly the same amount of time tonight, with interesting results

>> No.10299142

what dye did you use? Rit?

>> No.10299497

Have you even seen any of the coat patterns or the A-line dress patterns...? Basically anything larger than a bodice piece is self-drafted.

>> No.10299505

>post ur projects gulls
>2 images
>everyone is still fixated on the zipper reply

>> No.10299520

True, but most if not all of the ones they were making were on the sheets. I’d check but I’m not at home right now.

>They could be working off of scans
This is probably it but I could swear I saw the actual books in those videos. Maybe just clever placement.

Anyway I usually start by tracing the pattern from the sheets and then making alterations on a muslin and I was wondering if this was like, the amateur way to do it. I know my measurements but altering a 2D pattern with curves without doing a mock-up first is way beyond my skill level.

>> No.10299532

You must be new here. Almost no one posts their projects here anymore as there's almost never positive feedback. Gulls complain about everything that aren't brand level sewing.

>> No.10299549

Not true, they also complain about the quality of brand

>> No.10299556

So, just to be clear, those are solid mid-level seamstress skills. And, I don't know how else you would do it. But back to your mystery, they could still have the books. They could have also gotten them secondhand without the pattern sheets.


So, when the gulls told me my topstitching was terrible, it was probably passing.

>> No.10299596 [DELETED] 
File: 248 KB, 563x1000, WhatsApp Image 2019-12-04 at 8.32.09 AM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I am going to bite.
Okay so i have less than 8 months sewing but here is some progress on my coat I posted about on the last thread.
I had to redo the collar completely and draft it again because i failed to get it the right shape. What do you gulls think about the collar shape should i remove the stitches and redo it again??

Still need to topstich everything, add buttons(any recommendations?), do the buttonholes by hand, and finish ironing.
The coat is fitted in a Mannequin that is a bit small for the size of the coat and its missing its petticoat.

>> No.10299600
File: 248 KB, 563x1000, WhatsApp Image 2019-12-04 at 8.32.09 AM.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I am going to bite.
Here is some progress on my coat I posted about on the last thread.
I had to redo the collar completely and draft it again because i failed to get it the right shape. What do you gulls think about the collar shape should i remove the stitches and redo it again??

Still need to topstich everything, add buttons(any recommendations?), do the buttonholes by hand, and finish ironing.
The coat is fitted in a Mannequin that is a bit small for the size of the coat and its missing its petticoat.

>> No.10299712

I think it looks fine

>> No.10299766

Ayrt i think it looks very cute

>> No.10299768

Mood has cute shit if you need buttons. And collars are hard. I'm still working on how much ease to add.

>> No.10299772

I'm truly a novice, so my opinion shouldn't weigh so heavy. But I think it looks really good! I love the collar especially. Maybe it will help to look at what type of buttons your favorite brands use for inspiration?

>> No.10300016

Yeah I coulda sworn the coat from OnS 2, I think, only comes with drafting instructions. I own the mook, I'd feel real stupid knowing I am procrastinating on making it (I've never drafted a pattern so I'm nervous) when it was there on the sheet already, lol.

>> No.10300288

thanks gals
I am taking a deep dive to check buttons i wish there was a store near me, worst scenario I finish making the buttons with the fabric.

Post pictures of the pattern you draft and we can tell you what we think, just take it as a grain of salt.
Also since its a coat its a good idea to make the armhole 2cm bigger than what you normally use.

>> No.10300367


I'm not a youtuber, just giving another reason for self-draft.

Most lolita patterns are rather simple cuts, usually a shaped bodice + flared or rectangle skirt. If you've done up a basic bodice or sloper for yourself before, that's actually going to fit you better than a store-bought pattern that usually assumes you have "standard size" height, boobs, etc.

So it makes sense to draft up the bodice patterns you've already worked out and draft them to OnS's design. It's not so much as drafting OnS patterns with alterations on the fly.

Though, to be frank, if you sew enough of some specific size of OnS it's possible to memorize all the alterations to the sizing you need to do, like I can tell you with my eyes closed any OP "my" size always needs an FBA for an extra inch in the bust, reduce one inch in the waist, the bust dart shifted down another inch.

>> No.10300520

>Where do you go to get custom laces? Hopefully not too big a batch because I just make things for me to wear, no bigger-scale production.

Does anyone get their own lace?

>> No.10300789

I've never seen anyone that wasn't already a pretty big brand get custom lace made. I actually was looking at getting custom chenille lace for a Padmé cosplay but it's really hard to find a manufacturer with a reasonable minimum order.

>> No.10300979


This >>10300789

Only ever seen anons on cgl suggest getting custom lace like it's nbd, which is a decent sign the commentor either has no clue (if they did they'd already know about the high MOQ), or they're trolling. Sorry, anon.

The last time I tried to set them straight they also mouthed off about embroidery machines and commissioning lace from people who own them. You need to program stitches for the embroidery machines, and they don't come in one continuous strip design, only what can be hooped into the matching hoop of the machine. Only heard of one girl on egl who tried it, and she was very upfront that it was so time-consuming to babysit the machine, she wouldn't even do it for commission.

I quit trying to ""help"" when that anon started talking about cutting cheap gift tulle netting with scalloped crafting scissors.

>> No.10300983

To be honest ONS patterns are so basic that I’m not sure why anyone with the experience to draft their own patterns would even use them.

>> No.10301005


Someone asked this in the last thread, you might dig up the archives if you're really curious.

Off the top of my head, someone mentioned using the other sizes when they sew for someone else, some mentioned being lazy to draft from scratch, some mentioned looking at it for inspo and directions rather than the patterns, some mentioned using some of the wider patterns (like, how wide do you draft your skirt before it becomes too wide), one said something about supporting the magazine.

OnS isn't aimed at experts, it's aimed at young people getting started in the hobby. Usually these kinds of -not-complete-newbies- are prone to make mistakes. They may know how to put together a dress but then make mistakes on what lolita detailing should look like. Or they know what lolita should look like but don't know how to construct certains parts of the dress.

If you can read Japanese and are able to shop from Japanese stores, the OnS goes several steps further -- the book already shows you multiple coords, giving you a complete mini wardrobe in every book, it also tells you which shops the fabric came from. So if you want to you can simply make everything exactly as you see it in OnS and be comfortable knowing you didn't make some noobie ita mistake.

>> No.10301030


Yeah the only options for custom lace in small quantities involve designing your own pattern in embroidery software (requires skill and the software is expensive AF and not every seamstress is an artist) and then on top of that having to get one of those endless hoops for your embroidery machine to minimize how many seams you have to put into the lace, and the machines that support it are not cheap at all, nor are embroidery machines in general, plus the cost of the hoop attachment. And then you still have to sit and wait for it to embroider and all..

There are so many issues with attempting it and little guarantee of consistency or quality when you're using machines designed to embroider text and patches/images usually and are known to have hard times with delicate designs. The cost of the stabilizer would add up too. No way you could embroider yards of tulle lace with no stabilizer.

>> No.10301037

Why don't people just tat or crochet their own lace?

>> No.10301043


Whole different hobby. Most accomplished crocheters I've met don't even sew. Heck they don't even knit, that's yet another entirely different hobby altogether.

Sure, you could pick it up, but take a look in tha ita thread for how people think they can simply "pick up" sewing an put together an amazing lolita dress in two hours, and that's why people don't try to tat/crochet their own lace just because they need some right now to finish a dress.

>> No.10301046

Yeah, why don't people acquire an entirely new set of tools/materials and invest tons of hours in learning a skill? You must have a lot of free time.

>> No.10301049

I want to learn how, but from a cosplayer's standpoint and I just learned how to embroider, making standalone lace means using water soluble stabilizer and is a headache all its own. I'm not ready for that kind of commitment, I'll just buy premade.

>> No.10301055

These are both great skills with potentially gorgeous results but the time sink is just ridiculous, I'm talking hours to make a cm or two. It's just no viable for most applications.

>> No.10301057

I guess I always thought it was easy and quick. I've done it for a blouse I made before. Especially with how thick some of the old school lace is, it could potentially be even faster.

>> No.10301353

Because a lot of crochet lace looks shit unless you're good which means you have to get good at a whole new skill, and tatting takes fucking forever which is fine for lace details, but painful for the minimum of 3m of lace you need for most lolita garments

>> No.10301362

I have knit and crocheted my own lace for knitted garments but it’s quite time-consuming, and I only do it when I want an exact colour match by using the same yarn as the main body of the garment.

The type of thick lace used in old school is thick because it uses a lot of yarn, not because it uses thick yarn. Pretty much anything over lace/fingering weight yarn is going to be too chunky to look good as sewn-on lace. The only ‘quick’ lace that still looks good with lolita would be very widely spaced, which makes it very delicate and prone to getting caught on things.

If you like crocheting lace and really want to incorporate it into Jfashion I recommend looking into mori and natural kei, because chunkier lace definitely has a place in those styles!

>> No.10301374

Lolita can't be handmade. It can only be purchased from a store. Handmade "lolita" items are often cringe and beloved by itas.

This kind of thread also appeals to people who are too poor to afford brand and so should be discouraged.

>> No.10301408


>> No.10301434

I've used crochet thread size 20 and a simple design. Maybe if you wanted something more detailed, it would take more time, but most crochet lace I see used by brands is fairly simple.

>> No.10301446
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Either of you willing to post your crochet lace for the sake of discussion? You can crop it smallish and blur out the rest of the garment if you don't feel like outing yourself.

pic is kinda what I think of when I think crochet lace, and seriously this isn't what brand is using for most of their stuff, at least not btssb or meta, so I feel like I've gone wrong somewhere.

>> No.10301521
File: 691 KB, 1080x1920, Screenshot_20191207-143057.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I was thinking something along the lines of pic related. Sewn on rather than crocheted onto the garment.

>> No.10301526

you would need undocumented immigrants to finish that work on time, i think it's cheaper to pay MOQ to a chinese company.

MOQ varies from 100-1000 yards between .08-.65 cents depending on complexity you can get way more value and quality from china.

Anyway if its for love and you have a couple dozens of hours to burn go for it.

>> No.10301528

> to finish that work on time
On time for what? This is the handmade thread. It's a hobby. I get it if you don't feel up to it for your projects, but that doesn't mean it's not an option. The top design is ridiculously simple.

>> No.10301544

Nayrt but I knit, crochet etc while watching anime/dramas/etc. I don't feel it like "wasting time". It would feel waisting time if I watched those without doing anything else. I've actually once tatted two days and it was enough for the garment I was making. It doesn't take as much time as you may think.

>> No.10301751
File: 285 KB, 1600x1066, Shirring Princess close up.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


So did I, but >>10301434 mentions brands using it?

afaik aside from tulle lace, brands generally use venise lace, and torchon, cluny or lever lace (bobbin lace). It's distinctly flatter, finer, and looks less fuzzy than what you posted. I'm trying to figure out where they'd have gone in for fuzzy, thick crochet lace, especially the simple types you posted, instead of going their usual route with flatter, finer-looking lace. Or maybe I'm missing something and people routinely make bobbin-looking crochet laces. Which is which?

>> No.10301826

before they die obviously

>> No.10301894
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I assume actual knit items

>> No.10301895
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>> No.10301896
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>> No.10301899
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>> No.10301939


Great examples, and these make a lot more sense. Thanks, anon!

>> No.10302045
File: 1.05 MB, 1440x1430, Screenshot_20191015-182813.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I think that's all I have for lace inspo, but I have some more photos I can share of cute design elements from lolita and jfashion.

>> No.10302046
File: 223 KB, 600x720, 31CJ04j006-m-07-dl.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

cardigan embroidery from f.i.n.t.

>> No.10302048
File: 1.01 MB, 1440x1430, Screenshot_20191126-230119.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

on the sleeve

>> No.10302050
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across the front

>> No.10302052
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knit bow hairclips/brooches

>> No.10302053
File: 115 KB, 484x645, 3862E95C-973A-4614-BDFC-BADE2E753DCD.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

scarf with bows

>> No.10302054
File: 535 KB, 1440x1406, Screenshot_20191112-160021.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

sewn scarf with bow

>> No.10302055
File: 29 KB, 480x240, ZomboDroid 21082019160005.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

knit purse

>> No.10302056
File: 43 KB, 640x640, Fashion-Neon-Girls-Leg-Warmers-Knit-Bowknot-Boot-Socks-Ball-Boot-Cuffs-For-Children-Cute-Boot.jpg_640x640q70.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


>> No.10302057
File: 53 KB, 640x640, Winter-Knitted-Bowknot-Leg-Warmers-for-Women-Boho-Style-Boot-Socks-Womens-Gaiters-Hollow-Boot-Cuffs.jpg_640x640q70.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

boot toppers if you don't want to commit to a whole legwarmer

>> No.10302058
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flower embroidery

>> No.10302059
File: 351 KB, 1600x1920, ZomboDroid 12112019110305.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

cherry details

>> No.10302061
File: 1.03 MB, 1440x1405, Screenshot_20191104-083558.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

embroidered coat collar

>> No.10302062

this isn't the thread for image dumps stop.

>> No.10302065


Maybe they should make a knit & crochet inspo/appreciation thread for the people who like these images?

>> No.10302069

>I'm not used to relevant winter project inspo being posted in my dead zipper-hate thread

>> No.10302093


I just assumed the thread is sort of a help and advice thread and not an inspo image heavy type of thread. I do like these types of images and enjoy seeing them

>> No.10302125

that one is really pretty

>> No.10302149

Actually not what I meant, but I'd have to find my inspo folder to show what I'm talking about. I can't seem to what I'm referring to with lolibrary since you can't easily search by materials. I'll see if I can find my references.

>> No.10302370

If you were the one with the wonky topstitching, it was pretty terrible.

Ok, I'm going to disagree with everyone else who says it looks "fine" because one side of that collar looks like it's larger and sitting lower than the other side, and the smaller side (mannequin's left) looks like there's a point in your curve - did you clip and press properly, or did you muck up the stitching around that area? If that's just a trick of angles and lighting then leave it, but something like that would bug me enough to redo it. You could do covered buttons in fabric (either contrasting or patterned in the same shades), as the coat fabric looks too thick for covered buttons.

>> No.10302526

just don't fucking dump 20 images of alixpress/taobao shit and expect no one to bitch.

>> No.10302553

there are 3 offbrand items

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