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/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

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10261594 No.10261594 [Reply] [Original] [rbt]

Old one in autosage
This thread is for the discussion of sewing, needlecrafts, fibers arts, and other related crafts in the context of cosplay and j-fashion.
I'm the gull with the cast iron White Rotary machine from last thread and I thought I would give a quick update: after chasing down and backordering a part, I got it running again, it just needs oil. I'm very excited to use it to sew leather, but am a bit annoyed that White machines use a non-standard bobbin size. Anyone else own a vintage machine? A treadle machine is something I'd love to get someday

>> No.10262079

I'm learning crochet, I hope soon I'll be able to make lace ribbons. I'll make some necklaces, I have this cute cameo I'd love to use.

>> No.10262639
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Here's a pic of the cameo to keep the ball rolling. I'm gonna pair it with a dusty pink skirt I'm planning to make.

>> No.10262758

Are you crocheting a border for it or what? Crochet is something I've thought about taking up but I already do too many crafts and my current craft space consists of an overflowing table shoved in a corner

>> No.10262812

Nice idea! I was thinking of making a crocheted choker and use a setting for the cameo, but a lacy border would look cute too.

>> No.10263119

pls tell me you're using thread otherwise it's gong to look hella tacky

>> No.10263297

You mean for the lace? I am using cotton.

>> No.10263590

Does anyone have any experience selling on Etsy? Are people more inclined to purchase from Etsy opposed to your own website? A lot sellers are discussing Etsy in a rather negative light. Are the fees really that high?

I've started my own tiny indie brand selling hats and accessories. I have sold a few items through Facebook. But I would like to expand my business outside of IG and Facebook.

Would it be best to create an Etsy shop, and at a later date create my own website after establishing an audience? Or should I continue selling through Facebook/IG, and create a website once I've gathered more followers?

I'd really appreciate any advice.

>> No.10263716

I sell on Etsy and I'd say go for it and see how you like it personally.
I find it really user-friendly and you do get a decent amount of traffic from the site. I don't find the fees that awful either really and they have an option for sales tax built in.

Also buying/mailing shipping labels and all that through Etsy is quite simple.

>> No.10263791

>Anyone else own a vintage machine? A treadle machine is something I'd love to get someday
I've got a variety, including a treadle. Though it would be great buuuut I'm 6'4" tall dude and the ergonomics are shit and I cant be assed to rip the desk apart and build a new one more suited to myself. I rarely used machines though, I just like finding old ones free or cheap and messing about with them. 99% of my actual sewing I just do by hand cause why the hell not.

>> No.10263816

Recommendations for a beginning machine under $200 (closer to $150)? I've thrown away about 2 or 3 Goodwill finds, I'm just going to spend the money.

>> No.10263858

Singer Brilliance 6180. It has a computerized screen, automatic needle threader, work light, and thread cutter on the side. Really easy to thread your machine and bobbin through. Very beginner friendly. Michael's had an excellent black friday deal on it last year and Joanns seems to be having a lot of machine deals these days.

>> No.10263899
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Anyone know what these type of sleeves are called? I have a fairly good idea of how to draft them, but I have concerns about the upper part keeping their shape especially if I opt to use a heavier fabric

>> No.10263904

puff sleeves. you can create an inner sleeve layer and then stuff the space between them to keep that puff. KirileeCosplay has a tutorial video on youtube showing that method

>> No.10263911

I've heard the term Mutton sleeves in that historical context.

>> No.10264106

Okay gulls,
does anyone have any reccs for a backup sewing machine? I sew daily (self-employed) and would like a decent backup machine if my main one has to go to the shop.

I currently use a Janome so I'd be happy with a cheaper one (of the same brand) or one similar but having a walking/even feed foot and can sew heavy stuff is a must for me.

>> No.10265679

How can you fix itchy seams? Like if you're using lacy fabrics, can you put something over the seam to cover the itchy ends?

>> No.10265706

I think Etsy is a good place to start. Lots of people sell there. Once you get bigger, your own website can be better.

>> No.10265741

bias tape

>> No.10265750

as >>10265741 mentioned, you can use bias tape, or if you need something lighter you can use bias strips of chiffon. It's called a Hong Kong finish or bias bound seams if you're looking for tutorials on the technique.

>> No.10265752

Like >>10265750
also said, bias tape but also don't be afraid to french seam.

>> No.10265820

French seams are honestly amazing, especially with thin materials or lacy stuff. Prevents fraying or unraveling and hides everything neatly so you don't have visible edges. Also great for when you can't afford a serger but want professional seams on sheer garments especially.

>> No.10265843

Leg-o-mutton or gigot sleeve. Will need a lot of interfacing or other techniques to keep that volume. These look ruched, and I think this dress is Edwardian inspired if I'm not mistaken.

>> No.10267640

Have you thought about getting an industrial straight stitch machine?

>> No.10267907

Line your garment

>> No.10268098

I recommend a layer of apparel canvas, a layer of buckram, and another layer of canvas for very heavy fabric like the velvet shown; especially because of the gathering. These fabrics will gather and look nice while also adding support to your mutton, but will not breathe very well.

>> No.10268268

>99% of my actual sewing I just do by hand
Do you just have shitloads of free time, no actual working sewing machine, or are you like...a historical accuracy person? I know very few people who would voluntarily hand sew for the majority of the time unless they are going for historical re-enactment, or don't know how to use a machine/are intimidated by their machine.

>> No.10268306

With the weight of velvet you might even want to create a sleeve crinoline, it would be lighter than a triple layer of canvas

>> No.10268571
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Having the ‘’time of my life’’ with this fabric. It’s a cotton I’m adding a stabilizer to so that it wrinkles less. Any tips and tricks for heat bond? I haven’t used it before and it was recommended at my fabric store.

Pic of bare bones concept, from phone.

>> No.10268795
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How do I achieve a nice, smooth shape for a vest like in pic related ? I'm remaking a cosplay and my previous vest was a terrible and shapeless mess. I assume it was a mix of me being a girl crossplaying, using a fabric that maybe wasn't heavy enough, and probably the pattern not being correctly fitted. The main problem was sagging, with diagonal creases forming from the middle and up towards the armpits.

As I'm planning to remake it I've practiced padding my waist to get a flatter body shape, and I'm gonna make a mock-up, but my main question is : do I need something to weigh my fabric down and help it hold its shape ? Can I use some thick iron-on interfacing ? I've read about bespoke men clothes and padstitching, but I'll be using velvet and it will be hard to make discreet stitches.

>> No.10268812

>shitloads of free time
>historical accuracy
Both of these basically. Mostly do historical re-enactment but also general renaissance festival/fantasy stuff, but I'm also currently unemployed lol. I'm a geologist though and a lot of work I do is sort of seasonal, or it's just intermittent field work where I'll have weeks at a time off, not the regular day in day out 9-5 monotony.

I also just like making stuff though, so doing it by hand isn't really a bother.

>> No.10268817

If you've got problems with it being shapeless and drooping and such then it's probably way too lightweight. I don't think you'd need to necessarily stiffen up the outer fabric, but a proper waistcoat should have an interior layer of hair canvas or maybe something even stiffer, which should play a large role in keeping it's shape with a thin/fine outer fabric.

>> No.10268819

You need to tailor it for your breast, from the sound of what’s happening with the fabric, so it lays flat. As for the sagging, you need a mid to heavy weight interfacing but I would also recommend a stabilizer because it’s a difficult fabric. There’s a lot that goes into the inside of men’s suits, vests included.

>> No.10268908

I haven't
however being in an apartment I don't have space and since it's a backup I wouldn't want to spend nearly a grand.

>> No.10268948

Don't use super stiff heavyweight interfacing, midweight is better (you want a vest that still has movement and structure, not a priest's collar that looks and behaves like cardboard) and possibly interlining with canvas as well.

>> No.10269005

Thanks for the help!

Yeah, the fabric was a thin velvet so I assume that's why it didn't hold its shape well. The new one is thicker, so it should at least help somewhat.

I've read some tutorials and blog posts about bespoke men's clothes and wow, I had no idea there was so much stuff hidden inside.

I'm not sure where the boundary between the two types is exactly ? I got some at the haberdashery (the person who helped me was a dude who seemed knowledgeable about the construction of men's garments), it's a little stiffer than my fabric, but not "stand on its own" stiff.

Regarding adding an extra layer of canvas, it sounds good, but I've tried padstitching some on a test piece and due to the fabric being velvet, it's hard to hide and it pulls on the velvet's hair. Plus, I'm planning on embossing the fabric (and I'd like to do it as late as possible in the construction to avoid any unnecessary rubbing and erasing of the pattern), and I'm not sure if it would work well if the back of it has too much stuff on it.

Sorry, I didn't pick the easiest project!

>> No.10269589

What about Double sided interfacing? It’s got a sticky side on one end and a paper that protects the other sticky side. You iron it on one fabric first and the second after you peel the paper.

>> No.10270370

Why are you padstitching canvas directly to the fashion fabric? Fuse your interfacing, the canvas can be a floating interlining and it will still help shape the garment...

>> No.10273932
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recently got a vintage one but i have to take in to a shop to see if i can some replacement parts as I don't think the belt is functional and need to see what bobins and needles can go with this one in particular
if curious about what kind i've included the type in a photo

>> No.10274071

last time I came into a sewing thread here, and suggested to a beginner that they get right to using a machine instead of handsewing several feet of seams/hems on beginner projects like pillowcase/apron/pajama pants, I was boo'd and hissed out of the thread. Someone posted the gif of Wayne from Wayne's World pointing and saying 'Get a load of THIS guy!'

seriously though. you're right, why would anyone handsew any real length of seams or hems, especially straight ones?

>> No.10274673

Was that also in the context of them owning multiple machines already though? A machine can be a lot of outlay and most beginners, by dint of being beginners, have no idea how to pick a decent second hand one

>> No.10274679

For projects like this, yarn weight is much more important than the type of fibre the yarn is made of. Pretty much everything above lace weight is going to look chunky rather than elegant.

>> No.10274806

not sure what you're saying, it was obviously a beginner with no experience and no machine. The recommendation was for them to find a used machine, or a new one - just, A machine. Any machine. You're totally weird for disputing this - it's like cruel and usual punishment to tell a beginner to handsew in order to 'learn'. That's like telling someone who wants to get into cooking that they should only cook over an open fire, NO OVENS, NO COOKWARE, NO STEEL KNIVES, only open fire and flat rocks and sharpened rocks! It's absurd and it feels like you're trying to make it seem hard for them so they give up

when they could just instead learn to use awesome modern tools perfectly suited for the purpose

fucking /cgl, telling people it's totally okay to spend nearly 250 dollars a month on lolita shit but spending the same amount on a sewing machine is 'bad'?

>> No.10274809

*cruel and unusual, not usual. Angry typo.

seriously though. This is some mad fattie gatekeeping shit. You're worried if too many people from /cgl learn to sew they won't buy niche crap from your weird online store

>> No.10274881

No wonder you got chased off last time, you sound like you huff paint before you type.

>> No.10275347

Honestly with brother machines being 150 (my area) and a great little learning machine, there’s no need to hand sew. Even if my old singer and ancient one go out of commission, I know there’s always an option. Granted I keep my Singer well cared for and fixed up, she’s older than the computerized ones and I highly recommend finding one. They’re very easily fixed up when broken, no computer errors and a great workhorse.

>> No.10275467

I'm looking to hand sew a wizard hat for the first time, are there any tips and suggestions that have personally helped you when you were first starting out?

>> No.10275680

A former would help because it would remain in the cone shape while you worked on putting it together. Now whether there is one specifically ready made or if you might have to get creative is another matter.

>> No.10275761

They're leg of mutton sleeves, fool. Don't pay advice to that hack of a sewer, her tutorials are shit. If you stuff them with stuffing the instant you try to wash them the puff will go lumpy as hell because the stuffing will clump.

>> No.10275917

Is there a trick to the first few stitches with a sewing machine? I'm brand new to the whole thing and when things go wrong it's generally at the very beginning. Do you just need to give it some gas at the beginning? I think I may be to hesitant at the start which messes everything up.

>> No.10275973

Depends on what goes wrong. If you get thread vomit your threaded incorrectly or the tension is off. Use a scrap piece of your fabric to adjust your machine before you start, even if you had it right and didn’t see for a few days. Things shift around easily, it could always be out of wack when you first start.

>> No.10276055

Look, here's the fattie with a sad online store desperately wishing her crap niche lolita items will be bought by gulls. Doesn't like it being pointed out. Gatekeeper doesn't want her tiny, TINY potential customer base to learn to make things themselves.

>> No.10276192
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As stated in one of the replies, they used sleeve supports / crinolines / frames in historical garments. This is what one for an 1890s leg of mutton sleeve looks like. Don't start putting in stuffing or anything like that.

>> No.10276274
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Don't pop a blood vessel by projecting this hard.

>> No.10277481


Common newbie mistakes:

setting up:

1. If you have one of the newer machines with drop-in bobbins, double check the direction the bobbin should be facing. anti-clockwise vs clockwise can be pretty disastrous.

2. In that vein, double-check the set up of the top thread. All the hooks and loops you pass through regulate tension on the thread and bad stuff usually happens if you skip some.


3. Pull both thread tails (top and bottom thread) to the back of the machine. Small tiny important step, it tends to mess with the tension and create a threads nest if you don't.

4. Place the fabric and lower the presser foot. Then lower the needle into the fabric using the hand crank/knob on the side of the machine. Helps you start with the needle/fabric in the right place.

5. Then gently step on the pedal. No giving gas nonsense, this is a sewing machine, not a lawnmower.

If problems still crop up after that, more likely the machine needs servicing. Sewing machines need continuous use or some of the parts become out of alignment, not to mention cleaning out piled up lint from the inside.

>> No.10277575

Any good starting points (book recommendations, etc) for getting into millinery? There are no courses held locally, and my worry with online resources is that a lot seem to be like the "mom blogs" and take shortcuts/have no idea of actual technique but just do whatever works, or seem to be hugely technical and assume you own everything required. I'm assuming that there's some sort of happy medium with an initial outlay that isn't horrendous but requires maybe one or two hat blocks, felt, and buckram?

>> No.10277806
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I'm going to cosplay a character from a tentacle hentai to a convention and I want to drag a big tentacle behind me. For clarification, it does not have suction cups. What would be a good fabric to sew a long, kind of shiny looking (maybe?) tentacle out of?

>> No.10277897

Yeah, idk if I'd go as far as say they're gatekeeping, sounds a bit like you're projecting. People can be super weirdly defensive over handsewing, though. I remember a while back someone was asking about sewing and they insisted on not getting a machine because they wanted to do it by hand. I suggested to try embroidery if they really wanted to do stuff by hand since sewing straight seams is so inefficient and honestly, really fucking mind numbing. They got offended bc they did not just "want to mess around" and they were taking it so super seriously.

I'm not sure what happened last thread that you got such a reaction anon, but most threads people suggest that beginners buy a good used machine, avoid cheap machines with shitty parts, etc. I mean, it's not like you won't be forced to handsew, anyway. You still need to handsew to attach buttons, some trims, potentially for invisible hems, and a whole load of other stuff.

>> No.10277944
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I have an embroidery machine and I've been working at digitizing and designing stuff, but I'd love to get feedback on what people think would be cute/cool to embroider?

I'm not really looking to AA or etsy but just make cute stuff for fun!

My machine can make 4'x4' but I can always split larger designs!

Inspiration c/o @clammyheart

>> No.10278249

I'd say a shiny spandex or stretch vinyl

>> No.10278254

I'm a massive patch nerd so I would easily suggest making those. I personally like nerd patches that don't look like explicit nerd patches. Stuff that normies won't care about, but stuff that other weebs will get.

They're not difficult to make, either. The hardest part would be making the design I'd imagine.

>> No.10278257

Kinda new to this board. Don't have that much interest in cosplay myself but I like to occasionally check what other people manage to do.
But I'm mostly interested in sewing. Never done it in my life, but I think it would be useful to get down the basics at the very least.
How did you guys learn it? What's the best way to start learning it?

>> No.10278292

kinda same, but a little farther along lol
i've been buying boxes of sewing shit from antique shops and repairing clothes and stuffed animals. don't quite have the money or space to get into making clothing or getting a sewing machine, but in the meantime i've been studying how shit like this works and what makes up parts of clothing that i want to construct, like lolita dresses

>> No.10278294

What kind of resources do you use to study? Do you reads books on the topic or do you follow online videos on it or something similar?

>> No.10278300

i mostly just google around, hoard patterns for things that interest me when ill have the resources to use them, hang around here for tips, but i mostly experiment with sewing myself during repairs or modifying clothes that don't fit me anymore anyway.

>> No.10278301

Alright. Thank you mate.

>> No.10278309

Best of luck. In the end the best way to learn is whatever works for you. I like videos and experimentation, if you prefer reading books then hell yeah

>> No.10278456

I want to buy my first seger/overlock machine soon and I'm wondering if anyone here has any recs?

I own a Pfaff quilt expression and I was thinking of just going for a pfaff hobbylock for more of the same brand..
Unless there is another one generally known to be pretty good?

>> No.10278655

>How did you guys learn it? What's the best way to start learning it?
my mother was sewing all her life. When she grew up almost everyone knew how to make their own clothes, cause it's not like you could go shopping at the mall for it (Eastern Europe in the 70s and 80s). Her grandpa was a tailor as well, so it was kind of "in her genes" to sew. She made me and my siblings so many cute clothes from Burda patterns. They used to come as magazines, and they weren't available where we lived so she used to get my dad to buy them on business trips to Germany, and later Czech republic.

She never actually had time to teach me to sew, but I was always at least mildly interested. I was taught how to do little things here and there, but never actually knew how to operate a machine or lay out a pattern. In my junior and senior year I took fashion classes in high school. The first course was about 50/50 industry and marketing stuff, the rest was sewing. The second course was almost all sewing. So that's where I finally learned how it works and what to do. My first machine was one I got for free from my fashion teacher because she was getting rid of a bunch. I made my first few cosplays on that machine, it wasn't the greatest and jammed all the time. A few years after that I went to a tradeshow with my cousin where I bought a Janome for like 60% of the sticker price. It's pretty fantastic and I love it.

The nice thing is, one of those dysfunctional machines was also a Janome, so I pillaged it for different types of presser feet and forgot about it. It sat in my parents' house for years and then when my father had a bit of time my mother dragged it out of storage, they opened it up, cleaned up all the gunk, fixed some broken wiring, and now my mother has an 80s Janome that works like a dream. She also has a White machine that sits inside a table but prefers the Janome because it's more portable and she can sew while watching TV. Janomes are pretty great.

>> No.10278656

If you're looking to start learning, I personally found classes very invaluable because I learn well from watching and doing. I would check in with your local fabric store and library to see who offers classes. My friend took costuming college classes, but that's a bit pricy ofc. Our local library has a media lab rn where you can 3D print and rent sewing machines, so basically a babby cosplayer's wet dream. (You can also scan stuff, use audio recording equipment, and all sorts of stuff, it's neat).

If you can't find classes where you're at I recommend youtube. Nowadays I supplement what knowledge I already have with youtube and sewing books.

>> No.10278718

New guy here, my gf has a sewing machine and I have a closeby hobby lobby/michaels/Joann's and 2 days to work on it. With little experience (just helping her make pillows and such) how possible would it be to see together a passable gandalf robe/hat/belt? Would materials be cheaper than buying the costume? I already have long hair but would have to buy a beard, I think it's $11 on amazon. Also any tips for temporarily making my hair grey?

>> No.10278719
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Forgot pic

>> No.10278721

I usually hold on to the threads behind the machine until I've done a couple of backstiches to secure so they don't get sucked into the machine

>> No.10278728

I'm trying to sew a very narrow lace to the edge of a 15mm wide ribbon and my machine keeps eating and mangling the trims in the feed dogs/bobbin hole. Any tips for techniques or adjustments I can make to my machine? Or am I better off handsewing in this case?

>> No.10278730


Tearaway/soluble stabilizer. Put it under your trim and when you're done, tear away the stabilizer.

You can also put tape over the bobbin hole, the needle will still be able to punch through it (and it punches through the same hole anyway, so not like you've gotta worry about getting tape caught in your sewing).

>> No.10278769

Different anon, but that last tip is really interesting. I never thought of that.

>> No.10278965

I have a bunch of vintage machines including a treadle Adler 30-1 leather patcher which I converted to being powered by a motor. You're probably better off with one of the hand cranked machines, you can get a lot of control with those. Not as much as a digital servo motor but not bad.

>> No.10278977

It's best to get a wig for your hair, because there's no good temporary hair colour you could get.

With the amount of fabric a robe requires, unless you find it sale, it would be best to just buy the costume. I personally don't recommend doing anything as a beginner if you're on a tight deadline, you'll just panic when you mess up and frustrate yourself. Could it be done? Maybe if you worked nonstop but personally I would be so unhappy at the end lol. I speak from experience pulling off an all nighter the night before the con and still having to fix shit on my cosplay once there.

>> No.10279584
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Trying to be Shimeji. I can get a sweatshirt but the issue is I'm taller than her (6') so I can't find anything that reaches down to below my knees. Would sewing extra material to the bottom be possible, or would it look disjointed? Any other ideas?

>> No.10279593

ntayrt but this is so helpful. A couple years ago i was tearing my hair out trying to figure out how sleeves got so puffy and i never knew about this.

>> No.10279597

It would look weird. Can’t you find a sweatshirt dress that’s long enough? Those seem to be popular in mainstream fashion where I live at least.

>> No.10279635

What color are you looking for? I found this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33042193110.html

>> No.10279637

a few more options while I'm at it:

>> No.10279673

>but the issue is I'm male, so I don't know what sweaterdresses are


>> No.10279685

>women above 5 feet don't exist
commit seppuku. You're the reason shit like Tall Girl has to exist

>> No.10279932

Thank you anons. I found https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XMC2BG as well. Seems similar.

Did some basic measurements. From shoulder to knee I am 44 inches, and my chest size at its biggest is 35 inches.

Sizes on the link above: S-Bust:40.9in, Length:39.8in | M-Bust:42.9in, Length: 40.6in | L-Bust:44.9in, Length: 41.4in | XL-Bust:46.9in,Length:42.2in | 2XL-Bust:48.4in,Length:43.0in.

If I get the 2XL one would it look comically large in the upper portion? Or do you think it's fine since its a sweater anyway?

I looked at the AliExpress ones too. This one seems to be the best: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32926015356.html. Their XL is 104cm (~41in) bust and 110cm (~43in) length (I'm hoping that length is from the shoulder and not from the hood or something). Does that sound like it'd fit well? Or maybe it'd still need additional alteration to make it skinner afterwards?

>> No.10280081

It's better to take something in than to have it start too small. Look at how boxy and unfitted the character reference you posted is.

>> No.10280526

So im trying to do a cosplay of lee chaolan from tekken and want to make the overcoat and got the files for the embroidery pattern how would i go something like below into a actual pattern for a embroidery machine?


>> No.10280619

See if there's image converting software for the specific program the embroidery machine uses.

>> No.10280627

Embroidery software usually has a feature to convert images into embroidery files. Do you own an embroidery machine or are you ordering from someone?

>> No.10280876

I dont have one atm but i will do my own investigation on the mean, time

>> No.10281310

If you already have a machine, download the sewart free trial and try your best. Otherwise, pay someone to digitize/embroider.

>> No.10285755
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Hey. I wanna see if I can put together a Lilith Aensland cosplay without the wings in the hair or the hips/back.
What would be the best way to do this? I had an idea of buying maybe a pair of leggings or whatever, then sewing on or somehow putting the patterns on as best I could, probably with stencils or something, I dunno. When it comes to the main piece, I'm not so sure. Should I just go ahead and try and get a swimsuit and cut the upper parts? Whatever I decide on, I need to actually keep the thing up in the first place, so I'm gonna use straps to go over the shoulders and connect with the back of the main piece as well. Gloves/Arm parts should be pretty easy, and I know I'm nowhere good enough to even attempt the feathers or the arms connecting to the main piece, so I'm not even gonna consider it.
I'm open to the change of my current ideas, since I have almost no clue what the hell I'm doing. Thanks in advance.

>> No.10285756

leggings are too bulky and would look like shit under a swimsuit

>> No.10285760
File: 187 KB, 500x625, 4ea82ace7066a13c966dc7f1d48ba3d4.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Maybe I'll check the archive and see if a previous anon has tried this before, might be able to steal ideas. Cheers for the information, hopeless when it comes to this stuff.

>> No.10285785

man, why do new cosplayers always try to bite off more than they can chew.... I'm not sure if it's a good thing that you've put this in the sewing thread rather that the cosplay help thread. The fact that you're trying to construct this outfit out of premade items says a lot but hey, at least you're here to improve.

I'm not a hugely skilled sewer myself but this is how I would approach Lilith:
-make the "main piece" by looking at bunny suit patterning techniques (probably the duct tape method) and putting a chest cut out into the pattern. There are tutorials everywhere for bunny suits which are basically strapless leotards, and structure components like boning and cups which will help to hold it up.
-Then I would probably buy a long sleeved shirt or gloves in the right colour for the sleeves, and cut and attach it to the top of the leotard. The feathers you could maybe look for premade feather trim, or sew some like petals out of fabric.
-you're basically going to have to fabric paint the leggings or stockings while you're wearing them, get a friend and a stencil or sticker paper of some kind to keep the painting clean.
-just buy some boots if you suck at sewing, or look up bootcover tutorials
-wings could be made out of wire and craft foam, or fabric over a wire covering? You can make the head ones attach to a headband under your wig.
Really anon typing this out just made me realise that you actually need to google how to make each component of the outfit and go from there, or give up and sew something simpler, or just buy it.

>> No.10285786
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>> No.10285789
File: 373 KB, 1080x1920, face.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I understand, since I'm sure this is quite the difficult thing I'm trying to do. I'm sorry, I guess I have ambitions and I dive in the deep end a bit. It isn't something people like me are really even interested in usually I bet.
I'm really not bothered about the wings at all, at least not the damn massive wings. Fuck them, they can go.
If I could, I wouldn't go pre-made, but I'm sure for the the strapless leotard it'll be the hardest part. I'm not sure cups apply to me.
I thank you for this advice!

>> No.10285791

Cups will probably apply no matter how small chested you are unless you want it to fall down, show nipple, or have boned it the whole way up on the front.

>> No.10285793
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Even for a male?
I'll take your word for it either way, you know a lot more than I do.

>> No.10285794

I think what OP really means is that they're an autistic man who won't need cups.

>> No.10285795
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>> No.10285843

Does anyone else feel claustrophobic about the idea of wrapping yourself tightly in duct tape or just me? I've used painters tape in the past with no problem (aside from my only brain cell making the pattern come out wonky and therefore useless), but duct tape gives me the heebies.

>> No.10285845

Double sided fashion tape, clear straps, and boning/interfacing to the bodysuit my dude. Or attach the suit to a bra with clear straps - it won't look flawless but it'll stay.

>> No.10285847
File: 26 KB, 480x640, 1524659653662.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Cheers. I'm not aiming for flawless, I'm aiming for the best I could realistically do. Its not like I'm going out with the thing.

>> No.10285864

>Its not like I'm going out with the thing
Well if you wanted a shit tier costume that you're only going to wear inside your own home that just has to vaguely resemble the source material to meet your low standards why didn't you just say so?

>> No.10285865

Hey, I didn't say shit tier. I'm not looking for perfect, since that's way out of my ability, but I'm not looking for cardboard-shit tier or shit tier barely resembling stuff.
Sorry if I'm coming off as an asshole or anything of the sort. I'm just barely experienced in anything like this. I'll take the advice.

>> No.10285872

Imo, you might as well wear it out if you have it, but whatever works for what you need. Good luck

>> No.10286005

Painter's tape works fine, and you're not supposed to do it tightly, or else your pattern might end up too small

>> No.10286088
File: 443 KB, 3471x1180, ZomboDroid 08112019154225.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

here you go, perv

square neck mesh top
square neck red latex bodysuit
black sheer tights
feather boa

pic related has sold-out items, but the keywords i gave will help you find something similar

make the cutout in the top and bodysuit. take it in at the side seams if it has too much titty space for you. handsew the feather boa to the bodysuit straps. wear the top and tights under the bodysuit. paint the bats on the tights.

>> No.10286137

Yeah, I know it's not a rational fear, but my dumb idiot brain makes my heart race at the thought. I'm glad painter's tape works well though.

>> No.10286141

Thank you very much. I've got more than what I need just from this posts and posts before. All of you have been a massive help

>> No.10286592

You’re not alone. I’ve tried both duct tape and plaster bandages to make a custom dress form and fainted both times despite my partner leaving me plenty of breathing room. He had to cut me out of the half-finished shells while I lay barely conscious on the floor. Fun times.

>> No.10287324
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Do any of you have a good pattern for a sleeveless doublet? I know Simplicity has one but shipping a Simplicity pattern to my country costs an arm and a leg and I'd rather not spend that much money on a simple pattern.

>> No.10287390

If it's too expensive new, you can often find patterns secondhand on ebay, etsy or rakuten

>> No.10287429

Tudor Tailor

>> No.10287547

Oh no!! Kudos to you for trying again despite fainting the first time. That must've been quite the experience for the both of you, lol

>> No.10288529

hopefully my question is not too off topic : I came back from a travel in japan and I bought uv resin in diffrent 100 yen stores so I could compare it. But really I don't have a lot of idea on what I should be comparing the resin on ( maybe yellowing over time and thickness but other than that ). Does anybody have other ideas ?

>> No.10288532

I think this is maybe not the right topic, but I'd say how brittle it is and how easily it scratches?

>> No.10288604

How it flows.
Is it easy to work with.
How well it accepts different colorants
How long it takes to cure using a uv light and sunlight
The clarity of the finished piece

>> No.10293646

Idk if this is a good thread to ask, but if I wanted to do a Fl4k cosplay (borderlands 3)-
Is that cel shading effect a realistic goal?
How would you dirty up/season and accentuate cloth colors? Airbrush? Soaking in pigmented water?
How do you make cosplays that aren't sweaty as fuck to wear?

I have painting experience but not cosplay experience, so I get how lighting and color interact but textiles are confusing to me.

>> No.10293711

Use cotton or linen if you can. Anything like polyester will look cheap and feel disgusting. If you're lazy and don't feel like buying dye you can stain cloth with teabags or coffee grounds

>> No.10294069
File: 144 KB, 257x610, Flynn_render.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I asked this question in the other thread like an idiot, but I will ask it in the proper place instead.

I'm very new to sewing and want to make the jacket and pants for this character, Flynn from Shin Megami Tensei 4. Would I be able to buy or find patterns of something close enough to modify them? Or would I have to do something like this by myself.

Additionally is there a site I could use to learn what to call certain types of clothes, so I could look up instructions for them easier?

>> No.10294117

So, I'm a /fit/izen. I'm still growing size wise, and a lot of my cosplays from a year or two ago barely fit me now due to gains. I've been wanting a mannequin for a while, but I feel like it isn't going to be worthwhile since my overall body shape changes regularly. Is there like a set point in time when it would be a good idea to take the plunge, or should I just look for an adjustable male mannequin (if they exist)?

>> No.10294140

Looks like a coat with a very short capelet without arms.
I think you could modify the inverness pattern

yes get the adjustable male mannequin, totally worth it.

>> No.10295445
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Looks like I too am a bumbling buffoon when it comes to asking questions in the right location. So uhm. Let's try this again.

I doubt this is a smart decision to get into the hobby, but I'm planning to do a Fire Force cosplay. I want to make the fire retardant uniform myself, but I'm not sure how to go about it.

Someone recommended adjusting the template for a trenchcoat, which seems like the right way to tackle the patterns, but the materials are something I'm still kind of torn on.

Traditionally, "Bunker/turnout gear" is made of aramid fabrics (like kevlar) and padded with fire retardant foam. Does anybody have a good suggestion for an affordable fabric that looks and feels similar, but is like, cheap (wasn't planning on fighting actual fires) and some material to make it very bulky, like in the series?

>> No.10295456

Make the costume large and loose drifting, then grab something from the utility fabrics aisle and use it as an interfacing/interlining to stiffen and pad out the structure. I'm thinking the stuff that looks like foil normally marketed for making your own heat pads and oven-safe mitts can work? It's lightweight iirc

>> No.10295472

For the love of God please make a mockup first before using expensive fabric.

For the blue stripes you should get really reflective fabric

>> No.10295660

I like it! Really gives it that fire resistant feel. Thanks!

Definitely. Don't quite feel like throwing all this money down the drain while I haven't touched a sewing machine in like... 5 years. Getting reflective tape should be fairly easy. I've seen pretty big rolls go for a pretty low price. D'you reckon just sticking on the tape's good enough? Or should I secure it in some way? Thanks!

>> No.10295663

You should sew the tape on at least, a straight stitch along both sides

>> No.10295666

How about black neoprene, if not for the outer then maybe as the underlining or lining? It has enough bounce to it to hold up a bulky structure like those coats. Could also check out scuba knit if you want something lighter.

Also seconding sewing the reflective tape on, topstitch would be neatest and fastest but handsewing would also work if your machine hates it.

>> No.10295683

I thought as much, I think working in a nice black (or white) stitch on top of the tape would make it look cooler too.

Neoprene's a pretty good idea! Affordable, bulky, not too flexible. I don't mind if it weighs a bit more, the only thing I'd personally worry about is sitting down.

>> No.10295690
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> I personally like nerd patches that don't look like explicit nerd patches. Stuff that normies won't care about, but stuff that other weebs will get.

>> No.10295892

Novice sewer here. What is your guys' preferred method for marking on fabric? I like tracing wheel and carbon copy paper but it's cumbersome sandwiching multiple layers of fabric and copy paper to get markings on both sides of whatever I'm making.

>> No.10295964


Don't you usually just mark one side?

>> No.10295984

I use chalk or removable heat markers, some times copy paper.
But mostly chalk..

>> No.10295993

Where can I find some nice quality reasonably priced lace?

>> No.10296097

chalk or soap. If you don't want to risk staining the front, what you can do is mark the back, then sew along it in matching thread, so you get your lines on the front in a way that won't leave traces and you don't need to wash off which is useful for delicate fabrics.

>> No.10296098

I get mine on Aliexpress, read the reviews carefully and look closely at the photos and description and you should avoid shitty products.

>> No.10296181

I think this vid would help you a lot
your problem is a combination of fabric weight and mens tailoring just generally being a lot more than meets the eye. Your going to need to fit it to your body shape for sure, meaning more dart and tucks than a mens vest would require, as well as a bit of padding like you already stated. Mid weight interfacing would be best, and if your using velvet like you said make sure its a very heavy one.

>> No.10296279

Hey guys, need some advice. I'm gonna be sewing my first bunnysuit soon, I'm using the Amber pattern from Aranea Black Corsets. Only problem is that the whole back is lace-up, and I need to have a few rows of ruffles on the butt for it to be accurate (which it needs to be, since it's gonna be part of a competition cos for me). What's a way I can preserve the lace-up of the pattern while also having the butt ruffles? I thought about just having them on either side of the lace-up back, but that would just look disjointed. I feel like there's a way that I could have the ruffles be add-on after I put on the bunnysuit, but the craftsmanship of this needs to be really high. Does anyone have any ideas?

>> No.10296284

I got some lace off aliexpress that I thought was white, but it turns out it was off-white and now doesn't match with the rest of my cosplay. Would bleaching it turn it to pure white or nah?

>> No.10296285

I use Frixion felt tip pens, as soon as I iron the fabric the ink disappears. Doesn't work on very dark fabrics sadly but is an absolute winner when you want no ambiguity over where you should be sewing.

>> No.10296296

do you have a picture of the character you want to cosplay ? Or a sketch, maybe that could help to figure it out .

>> No.10296303
File: 847 KB, 1310x852, Screen Shot 2019-11-27 at 3.22.21 pm.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Sure. Here's the back of the pattern I'm using, and here are the butt-ruffles on the character.

>> No.10296366

I'd sew up to the grommets, make the ruffles a bit longer, then add snaps to connect both sides of ruffles together in the middle.

>> No.10296542

if it's made of nylon or polyester I don't think bleach will work and you may even damage the lace. Try bleaching a small test piece first.
If it's cotton it should bleach fine.
Just remember to use diluted bleach.

>> No.10296552

Make sure you stitch two stitches, then backstich one, then continue stitching. Backstitching is key.

>> No.10296555

Use a chalk tracing wheel or wax pencil. That’s what most pros use.,

>> No.10296570

I think your problem is that you're marking both sides, wtf is that shit. Mark on the wrong side of the fabric.

>> No.10296774


>> No.10296784

Is there any reason you’re making it a bunny suit instead of just a spandex bottom with a corset top, out of curiosity? These bottoms are similar to the ruffles that are on the panty part of a ballerina’s tutu, which are typically made of performance spandex in modern costumes.
I’ve made this costume before with the skirt if you need any advice on other parts!

>> No.10296945

Nta but maybe they're cutting on the fold?

>> No.10297341

Oh my friend recommended for it to be a bunnysuit and then a top on top? She's made a similar costume before and she said it really helped with silhouette, because I need some assistance with that lol. I'm doing it for Holmat and not with the big skirt, so I'm just really hoping to make what I do have as clean as possible. I've got 2 weeks with the rest of the costume done, so I figured I'd take the time to go the extra mile, since competitions make me nervous.
Oh wow you made the costume before? Do you have any general advice or pics? Might end up making the skirt one day to add on.

>> No.10298736
File: 602 KB, 650x778, Screen Shot 2019-12-02 at 5.11.20 pm.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Anyone have any recommendations for a sewing pattern I can modify for the blazer for Lysithea fire emblem?

>> No.10298740

That's gorgeous, I'd wear that blazer all the time

>> No.10298829

Yeah, the character designs for the academy phase are super nice and sleek, I love them.

>> No.10298882

someone on Etsy is selling her pattern with mariannes and brigitte(?)
I bought it a few weeks ago its really detailed
She also sells other uniform patterns as well

>> No.10298986

Hey gulls, I have a question for anyone who’s done sewing commissions before. I’ve been doing them very casually for about a year, and i just got a request for a cosplay that included a pair of shoes, but I’m not quite sure how to go about it. If I were making then for myself, I would thrift a pair of boots and modify them with paint and trim, but I’m not sure if that’s appropriate, since with all my other comms, I’ve made everything from scratch. But then, shoes are very expensive to buy new, unless there’s a good place to buy cheap shoes that I’m missing out on.

Anyway, yeah, any advice on this would be great since I’m sorta at a loss for what’s best in a commission setting.

>> No.10298990

I'm not a commissioner, but would it be possible to make a boot cover instead? They're typically better for a cosplayer to use in the long run since you don't have to buy multiple pairs of shoes. Perhaps ask the client what they'd like to pay for?

>> No.10299013

That's something you need to discuss with the client, especially since shoes need to fit them really well or they'll be very uncomfortable.
Who the hell is brigitte?

>> No.10299352

is there a technique or presser foot i can use to pseudo increase the max stitch length?

>> No.10299374

What are you trying to accomplish?

>> No.10299391

more voluminous gathering

>> No.10299392

It’s called a basting stitch you do it with your hands lol

>> No.10299443

A gathering foot or ruffler would aid you. Otherwise you can set the stitch length to maximum and hand gather. More fabric means that you can volumize the gathers or you can add horsehair braid if its a bottom hem.

>> No.10299694
File: 267 KB, 1280x504, C4E0CE4C-225A-483A-9EB6-3FFF756903C3.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I found the corset to be effective enough, but if you need reduction all the way down / don’t want spillage from under the corset, a bunnysuit might be your best bet! For the lace part, you might want to consider just covering the eyelets in that area with thread and a button hole stitch to make them more subtle (or just use white eyelets) so that the lace can cover them. If the lace is extra ruffly in the center, it should appear relatively continuous on each side of the opening if it’s closed. Look into lacing patterns that won’t crush the lace.

For general skirt tips, pic related is a rough idea of how I made my skirt!
I made an open hoop skirt using this tutorial as a base ref: http://istoria-n.tumblr.com/post/123609095563/open-front-hoop-skirt-tutorial
I added a lot of extra hoop steel to the opening than the tutorial (purchased separately), and flexible pvc tubing with 3 thick, twisted wires threaded through it so that the skirt was somewhat posable. A butt pillow/ bustle underneath the skirt (in the same color of the underskirt) was necessary to counterbalance the weight and to prevent it from closing in the front. Adding the petticoat netting made the skirt more cupcake-shaped.

I’d probably remake mine to be more structurally sound if I still had the cosplay (I sold it a while back unfortunately). One of the big things is that you really need is support for the skirt around your waist— ideally make a thick, boned (possibly laced) waistband under everything so not all of the weight is on your hip bones. Mine came out to be about 13 pounds so the small waistband made it feel terribly heavy and uncomfortable.

lmk if you have any more specific questions! I found the rest of the cosplay to be pretty trouble-free other than the skirt. Thank you for giving more cosplay love to one of my favorite characters aaa

>> No.10299802

not getting it with the gathering foot either is actually what prompted me to post. before that i'd tried just the regular foot with tension and stitch length both maxxed out. either method results in too-close gathers. ruffler i think would be overly structured but i haven't got one.

picture a blindstitch that's spaced too widely. imagine how gathering along that thread would come together. that's the sort i'm aiming for: more voluminous at the stitchline
>soft and drape instead of crisp and ruffle
>fall away in gentle folds rather than rise away in outward flare
>closely bunched not tightly puckered

if i sanic it through at warp speed and keep it taut on the way out, a darning foot with tension near 2 and the feed dogs left engaged gets me a workable stitch length. can't really into an accurate stitching line that way though. plus even being careful it still seems like only a matter of time before i'd get a face full of needle shrapnel.

any ideas?
>tl;dr trying to work out how to gather more fabric at a time/greater volume of fabric into each stitch

>> No.10299843

If I'm working with a pattern for the first time and it isn't in my size or proportions is it simple to make edits so that they are or make alterations so they look more like a cosplay outfit?

>> No.10299853

What's the worst injury you've ever sustained while sewing or crafting?

>> No.10299941

>design alteration
it depends on where it isn't fitting properly and in how many ways your body deviates from the average/standard that patterns are drafted for. for instance: heaven fuggen help you if shoulders come into play here. i barely even enjoy this shit half the time anymore.

sewn my finger to the fabric more times than i can count and near miss with a borken sew machine needle pinging off my upper eyelid/brow that could've gone very badly but nothing truly injurious thus far. non-sewing: sliced into my fingers/hands with chisels a few times. nicked my thumb with a saw. nothing story-worthy there either really.
>ehh i'm almost done, i'll sharpen it in a sec, it'll be fine
>ehh it's one tiny quick bit, i can hold it like a complete retard for just that, it'll be fine

>> No.10299946

Crafting I sliced my arm with a blunt craft knife and ended up needing stitches. Wearing, I was doing a promo gig and dislocated my knee and had to keep on going and wearing it for 4 days

>> No.10299984

>before that i'd tried just the regular foot with tension and stitch length both maxxed out
You don't want the tension maxed out as well, just the stitch length. Then you hold the bobbin thread and move the fabric along with your fingers. The method you mentioned isn't a bad one, but its easier to control the gathering with the one I mentioned.

>> No.10299988

I'm a beginner so I only have a near injury story. I was working through some layers of a thick material and my needle snapped in three. The pointed edge flew straight at the center of my eyeball, but thankfully I happen to wear glasses for impaired eyesight so it saved me from a trip to the ER. I do need to invest in safety goggles, but I try to at least wear my glasses at all times when sewing now.

>> No.10299989

I agree with the other anon, pattern manipulation isn't easy but its doable. Can you give us a better idea of what you're trying to accomplish?

>> No.10300133

If I need to add a lining to a pattern that doesn’t come with one, can I just duplicate the main pattern onto the lining fabric and sew them together? I saw a tutorial that involved raising the armholes and whatnot for ease of movement but I don’t really care about that, I just need a lining to be there.

>> No.10300154

Yes, you can, and it will be easier with smaller projects. Bigger items will have more issues with stretch and drape responding differently between the shell and lining but if a super clean fit isn't important then it's not that bad.

>> No.10300155
File: 137 KB, 795x1143, 8050.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

So I've been looking for patterns that would be very similar to the dress of Mature from King of Fighters. The issue is that I'm a guy and measurements I've found are always too small. I guess by proportions I mean more like lengthening a dress or giving it more cleavage. If it helps here's the pattern in question.

>> No.10300156

You can easily just do that, 99% of the time it works

>> No.10300159
File: 133 KB, 950x1600, mature-kof98 (1).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

And here's the character I'm sewing the dress for

>> No.10300163

That character has a white vest underneath and a coat/dress thing, about modifying them to your size you should better make a basic bodice and skirt with your measurements and modify that to do what you want, the forms from the patterns can help you on redrawing them on your bodice. But it’s still trial and error. Go to some sewing classes and get help from the teachers.

>> No.10300171

Thanks heaps!

>> No.10300173

still can't get it. the gathers are still just way too close, it doesn't look right. holding the fabric up and letting it gather on a drawstring looks lovely. trying to sew it in place invariably just ends up looking like a damn bed ruffle. and sewing-related *anything* it seems is futile to try and search for info on. why do i like this again??

>> No.10300181

I already have the vest taken care of. Or rather I know how im going to make the vest. I'll take your advice on making a dress and going from there. I'll also look into possibility some classes as well. Thanks anon

>> No.10300192

have a look at this one, might be able to get you part of the way there

>> No.10300356

This is almost exactly what I was looking for. I've still got a month and a half until the con too so I'll experiment. Thanks!

>> No.10300429

>the gathers are still just way too close
so spread them out with your fingers? thats why its a nonpermanent movable stitch.

>> No.10300439

one time while sewing through many many layers of fabric and interfacing, I put my finger right under the needle of my machine and punched a nasty hole in my pointer finger nail. Luckily the needle proved weaker than my flesh/bones, and broke up into pieces, and the only piece in my finger was really big and easy to pull out. The machine was fine! I decided it had good torque in the motor!

>> No.10300468
File: 105 KB, 640x387, F5EA514B-1403-411F-A5DB-1C403F322AC5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


Some options that might work for you:
-Zigzag stitch over a piece of string. Mark centers, halves, and quarters on the piece, pull the string to gather and then distribute gathers evenly by making sure that the segments you made earlier are all equal length. Secure in place with normal stitches.

-Maybe try flounces instead of gathers? As in, unironed pleats. You can do double-hand pleats which are knife pleats folded over twice (sucks up a ton of fabric as a heads up, but fits a lot of fabric in one place), or just normal unironed knife pleats or box pleats. If you put something like fishing line or horsehair braid into the hem you’ll still get a lot of fluffiness and body.

-I’m not sure what application these ruffles are going to, but if it’s something like a skirt then you could also look into cartridge pleats.

In the end, I personally think the best option is just to gather with long hand stitches. It’s really not that bad or slow, you just have to mark centers so the gathering stays consistent.

>> No.10300791

Mine was the opposite, I was sewing a zipper and put my finger under the needle, it went cleanly through the nail and the finger and came out with no problem, didn't touch the bone or shatter so I didn't have to go to the ER to get it checked out. Good thing I was working on black fabric.

>> No.10300794

Probably just stepping on a pin that was in my carpet. Hadto pull it out of my foot. And the time I accidentally leaned my arm into a hot iron and got an instant blood blister. The scar is still there 8 years later.

>> No.10300833
File: 1.05 MB, 1890x1368, 6023ca827d182c7536887bb3619b080f.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Complete fucking newbie trying to make their first cosplay. Does anyone know what this specific skirt is called? I know it's sort of A-line but I can't find a pattern that includes the panels. Also, how the absolute fuck do these sleeves work? I'm so completely lost.

>> No.10300842


You can literally just make an A line skirt and cut these triangular shapes and then just have the green layer beneath but if you look at cheerleading skirts you might find information about the proper way to construct that layered faux pleat effect.

The shirt is just an off the shoulder top with more detailed cuffs on the sleeves.

>> No.10300860
File: 153 KB, 342x520, Mikuni_Oriko_Mikuni_Oriko.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Nayrt but I just wanted to say thank you for being so candid and helpful about how you made this skirt. I need to make a similar skirt for a cosplay and was struggling with a lot of the details but this is super helpful.

Anyways, I have a question for a different cosplay. I'm going to try to make Oriko's magical girl outfit but I'm struggling with finding a jacket pattern like this, with two rows of buttons and an asymmetrical opening. Does anyone know a similar pattern I might be able to modify? I've been striking out locally.

>> No.10300861

Thanks! Definitely going to look into the cheerleading idea. For the sleeves, should I make them of a thinner fabric and just a bit longer so when I put the cuffs on it bunches up nicely? Or will it just end up wrinkling like an oversized sweater? should I look into interfacing like a mutton sleeve?

>> No.10300863

I would do box pleats with the pleats being a contrasting colour. you would end up with seam lines though (either down the sides, where the skirt separates from the bodice).

Character designers don't always draw seam lines where they should realistically exist, so keep that in mind as well - it's sometimes not avoidable to put seams even where they weren't drawn in.

>> No.10300865

Would I just sew the two different fabrics together for the pleats? I don't mind seam lines, I feel like they add to a cosplay & make it look more like it's actual clothing, which is what I'm going for ideally. Thanks for being so patient with me. The most sewing I ever did was industrial arts at school and I've forgotten all of it.

>> No.10300884
File: 89 KB, 480x640, 4338BF1E-3E11-4C25-8B35-A91875C84315.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Glad it could be of help! If the character you’re making doesn’t have a lot of extra stuff on the skirt you probably won’t need a super heavy duty waistband, since most of the weight from mine was from the many pounds of polyfil stuffing in the white poofs.

I tried my best to look and this pattern seems fairly close? There’s quite a few vintage dress patterns in this style. If you need more options search “double breasted blazer/dress/coat pattern” on google shopping.
As a heads up coat and blazer patterns will be a lot more loosely fitted than your reference, so you’ll likely need to make a lot of mods to tailoring. A simple dress bodice pattern with princess seams may be easier to modify (just duplicate the front panel and add button holes accordingly) than a coat pattern, if the vintage dress patterns aren’t in stock.

>> No.10301017

I usually just sew dressed and not blouses but I've done similar sleeves once I just made the hole of the sleeve a bit wider than normal and then gathered it smaller. It's similar to doing a puffed sleeve at a shoulder but you would gather the whole sleeve all around the bottom to match the circumference of the cuffs.

>> No.10301019



Woops dropped my reply

>> No.10301377
File: 292 KB, 600x627, clip.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Weird question, anybody willing to provide concrit on the layout and presentation of sewing patterns? I haven't used that many premade patterns, so I don't know if there are unspoken rules I'm breaking or other ways to improve the readability of my own patterns.

>> No.10301379

I think in general you should try to have your text and your grain be aligned on the grid rather than rotated, as much as possible. I would also avoid the rounded arrows with the black outline, they should be solid for the sake of precision. Also, have you added the seam allowance? I know a lot of people don't add it to their home-made patterns but I find it better when they're accounted for on a commercial pattern.

>> No.10301381

Oh sorry I just threw that image up so my post wouldn't get buried in a wall of text. Here's the actual pattern file

That one is a fucking monster, here's a simpler pattern if you don't wanna trudge through that for the sake of a random anon's request.

Anyhow, thanks for the feedback, that's exactly the sort of thing I was looking for.

What do you mean aligned on the grid? Like, keeping them oriented either parallel or perpendicular?

Solid arrows are a good idea, that will probably let me get away with smaller ones on tiny pieces too. I'll try that out on my next pattern and see how it looks.

I don't add the seam allowance to the pattern pieces themselves, but the pattern page itself always lists the seam allowance. I...don't actually know how you're supposed to find the line to sew on when the pieces include seam allowance. Like, obviously on a machine you've got the measurements on the needle plate, but what about hand sewing?

>> No.10301382

you add a mark on your machine that shows you 1/8inch or 1cm whatever you are used and sew using that as a reference.

>> No.10301383

Yeah I figured out that part, most of my stuff requires extensive hand sewing, though.

>> No.10301384

ahh im retarded
By hand if you don't have the allowance like known by practice its better to mark it with chalk and align your pieces.
As a general practice I always mark it with chalk.

>> No.10301385

So I'd be tracing out each piece twice, basically? Like, tracing out the seam allowance size to cut, then going over each piece again with the chalk to mark the actual sewing line?

I've seen that "tape two markers together to add seam allowance and trace the pattern at the same time" trick, but I guess this is sort of the opposite situation.

>> No.10301386

>>So I'd be tracing out each piece twice, basically? Like, tracing out the seam allowance size to cut, then going over each piece again with the chalk to mark the actual sewing line?

Yes, i do this. Certainly its not efficient or fast but it gets the job done good.

>> No.10301387

Ok, I assume the reason to do it this way is to ensure none of whatever you marked the pattern with through in the stitching?

>> No.10301426

>What do you mean aligned on the grid? Like, keeping them oriented either parallel or perpendicular?
Yes, exactly that. But from your other patterns I see you're working with very little space so it's fine if they're not aligned.

>> No.10301459


It seems to be a Japanese vs Western sewing thing, I've seen other bloggers cover how Japanese patterns don't include seam allowance while western ones do, which seems pretty consistent with the patterns I have.

If your market is western hobbyists then I'd stick to the norm. Though, if the pattern is really small and finicky it might be a good idea to print both the seam allowance and sewing line so you don't lose detail.

As for this question >>10301387 -- what I've actually seen is some people don't bother tracing twice (some seem to even cut around the pattern without tracing at all, if the fabric and pattern is simple enough for it), they use the guide on their sewing machine to lay down the seam. It's usually really simple dresses, so it's possible to do it without too many complications. I can see the appeal, though.

>> No.10301746

Yep, it's hard to fit text and grainlines onto a pattern piece less than an inch wide

Huh, I didn't know that about Japanese patterns. Any idea why?. On an unrelated note, why are Japanese craft books so much more in-depth and advanced than any Western craft book I've ever seen?

I don't really have a "market", I just share my patterns for free just cus I can't stand the idea of spending weeks or months refining a pattern for it to only get used one time.
>some seem to even cut around the pattern without tracing at all
Oh yeah, I could see how people manage that when working with flat fabrics and a rotary cutter.

>> No.10302101
File: 304 KB, 768x1024, Harold_Berselius.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Compared to yours the skirt will probably be pretty simple, it's just pic related.

As for the other cosplay, thanks for the advice. I've always had a rough time with making good princess seams but you're right in that the fitted look is definitely more true to the cosplay. I'll have to think about what I want to do there.

>> No.10302419

Holy SHIT! This is literally the most gorgeous princess of the crystal skirt I've ever seen, I'm literally in shock right now. Do you possibly have a pic of you in the whole costume?

If I do end up making the skirt in the future this is such a huge help, thank you so much. You're seriously talented.
I do have one question, you talk about "butt pillow/bustle" underneath. What is that, and how did you make/attach it?

Also your hat looks way nicer than mine lol, do you have any tips on how you made that? And what are the giant pearls made of? Sorry for so many questions your cosplay is just amazing.

>> No.10302492
File: 2.49 MB, 1800x1200, 8ACAA66A-5225-4B33-975E-C3761ED0ED3E.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Thanks! The butt pillow was literally just a red half-moon filled with a lot of polyfil stuffing and a waistband in the front (i just did mine with elastic, you may need a non-stretch waistband for security). It was about 12-14 inches wide in the back stuffed if i remember correctly, so probably a few more inches unstuffed. You could probably add two hooks in the back to secure it better to the bunny suit.

The hat is honestly a bit shoddy (at least the decorations lol), the pieces are just plastidipped / painted and glued-on craft foam with matching cravat fabric for the eyes. To pattern it I just made a base sculpted out of like... aluminum foil and tape on a head form, then saran wrap and duct taped around that for the pattern. The hat was interfaced with felt and I made a little stuffed compartment to add polyfil to the horn things.

The pearls are plastic “fillable” christmas ornaments that I painted on the inside with pearl pigment and glued shut. Since they open up and have loops on both sides, one loop could go on the bottom and the other on top.

If you have any questions after this thread dies you can email me at [email protected]!

>> No.10302516

As a six foot tall woman, I also thought you were a male due to your lack of awareness of the concept of a hoodie dress and how bad of an idea adding extra material to the bottom of a garment would look.

>> No.10302717
File: 118 KB, 794x1008, il_794xN.1209234820_p2an[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I believe you do, yes. The seam lines of the contrasting fabrics end up hidden within the pleats themselves.

I had this pattern when I was a teenager and learning to sew, if you needed an example. But there's tutorials out there - search for "contrasting box pleats" or something like that.

>> No.10302720

>Huh, I didn't know that about Japanese patterns. Any idea why?
I don't have the answer why, but European patterns are the same way, none of my mother's Burda magazines back in the day had seam allowance but their patterns in North America do. I guess America introduced it sometime it's just convention at this point, but it never caught on elsewhere?

>> No.10302750


I could kiss you, anon. I've been wanting to do a costume which has a skirt just like this for the longest time and figuring out how to get that silhouette has been the only thing that's stopped me.
Thank you so much for sharing this.

>> No.10302757


A sewing needle broke and I set it down on the table to put away in a sharps box later as my brother and partner both take shots on the regular. At some point it got knocked off and lost in the rug under the table.
While I was able to find the sharp tip and disposed of it, the blunt end that inserts into the machine remained missing and I figured I'd find it later and it posed less of a risk because it's not the needle point. I mostly wear slippers around the house, but often kick the one off my pedal foot. I forgot all about it, walked around the table and found the blunt piece with my foot. It went in a good centimetre and was firmly wedged in there, the reason I couldn't see it before was because it was pointing upwards and gave it the perfect angle to insert itself into my foot.

>> No.10302959

Ouch. That's why I don't have a rug in the area where I sew, and I also have a strong magnet I can use if I lose a sharp metal object.

>> No.10303112

I'm trying to find a sewing machine that isn't insaly expensive that won't just break on me after a week, I wanna get better and make cute stuff for people reee

>> No.10303127

maybe shallow would've been a better word choice. stitch length is the limiting factor here. think wave amplitude.

>In the end, I personally think the best option is just to gather with long hand stitches.
yeah, you're right. part of me is still half tempted to try modifying a presser foot but i'll file that away for later and just go with what definitely works for now.
>I’m not sure what application these ruffles are going to
neckline, chiffon, dress, very simple silhouette
>you could also look into cartridge pleats.
ooh neat. hadn't ever heard of these before now. looks like they ought to do the trick! thank you so much

>> No.10303137

Ahhhh I see.

>> No.10303139

Check out Facebook Marketplace and Black Friday sales. Imo I haven't found anything worth buying a thrift store so far unless you're into vintage sewing machines, but I managed to get my Singer Brilliance 6180 off of FB for $50 without the cords and another $30 for the cords. It was a gud deal

>> No.10303320
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If I want to make a bag like pic related, should I use faux leather, cow hide, or soft leather sheepskin? I try to be conscious of animals when I purchase products and never buy leather items new, and if I purchased real leather would go to a local tanner/person who deals in secondhand animal skins and furs.

I'm mostly concerned about whether or not soft leather would be too thin as some larger sheets have natural holes and thin spots. But I have a Janome at home machine and don't know if I could even get much done with a very thick leather.

>> No.10303395

Have you ever sewn leather? Or are you even a good sewer? If you say no to either one don't even try, it's too hard for you. Leather is one of the shitties material to work with as every mistake you make will show. Start with something easier. That bag is high level stuff. I've seen too many beginner sewers wanting to sew leather and failing miserably. Some even so bad they completely ditched the hobby.

>> No.10303445


I'm a relatively experienced seamstress with garment weight fabrics. I've only repaired thin leather things like bits on shoes and jackets before. I specifically wanted to make my own bag in this style either with denim (which I can do easily) or leather (would be more versatile) to custom fit my giant water bottle and my laptop, plus have it as a horizontal rectangular backpack rather than a messenger bag/briefcase

If I wanted to alter an existing bag (I have some limited access to an industrial sewing machine that can work with leather), could I simply remove the messenger strap and use a heavy duty srt of D rings and pre cut leather strips made for bag straps and attach that to the right spots on the bag?

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