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/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

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10164075 No.10164075 [Reply] [Original] [rbt]

Can we have a thread to specifically discuss sewing and needlecraft in the context of j-fash and cosplay? Pattern making, machine discussion, garment construction, embroidery, etc. Other needlecrafts such as crochet, knitting, felting, etc are welcome too.
Question to get us started: Have any of you all bought older, heavier duty machines or invested in an industrial machine? It's been something I've been considering for a while because I like to sew some heavier materials and my machine struggles to keep up sometimes

>> No.10164103

I just started knitting again so I can make thing for lolita. Not really sure where to start since I have only ever knitted scarves.
Any recommendations for easy projects to get my feet wet? I was looking into socks and have been practicing knitting with double points.

>> No.10164357

I do crochet and was thinking of doing a canotier or headdress? I know there's tutorials for the latter. I've also seen people do headbows. It would be nice for winter?

>> No.10164410

Part of me wants to get one of the older "vintage" sewing machines because they look nice. But I see them break or jam so often I stick with the same Brother machine I've had since i was 12. Sewing machines are like significant Others that way, tossing out a good one for an aesthetic is a bad idea. But if your machine is having troubles, I hear great things about Viking Emeralds. If you can find one that is.

>> No.10164438

I've been hoping a thread like this would pop up! I bought a Singer Brilliance 6180 secondhand last July when I first got into sewing and I'm currently working on my first handmade cosplay. I've only ever worked on a machine once during a week long course during summer when I was a kid. Furthermore this is the first machine I've ever owned. I've made a couple of little small projects: a really bad hair bow, a skirt altered from a children's dress for Christmas, and a handful of mockups for my costume. Seeing all of the effort and knowledge that goes into making a garment really makes you appreciate clothing more. To be honest, my costume probably screams newbie, but I'm really proud of my journey so far. I went from not knowing what a bobbin is to using boning and interfacing.

>> No.10164471

I'm just now learning to sew. I've had to wait a decade but it feels good to finally start.

>> No.10164477

I'd actually like to learn to embroider to do it on aprons and dresses. Does anyone have experience with applique as well?

>> No.10164479

Sorry to double post but I just remembered I went searching for crochet ideas for egl earlier this month and found this link!:

>> No.10164523

i've also always wanted one of those old vintage sewing machines; they look so wonderful and they remind me of my grandmother's machine. i kinda learned sewing though her because she would make school uniforms for some of my school mates and me. i'd hang around her while she was sewing and cutting and she'd kinda talk through what she was doing. back then i never thought i'd use it or even remember anything of what she said, but i do and i am thankful.

i don't remember what type of machine she had, but it was very ornate and it was one of those that was built into the table, it would jam every now and then but she never made too much of a fuzz with it. so i guess it wasn't too bad.

>> No.10164550
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Someone posted a bunch of lacy boleros and shawls on ravelry once, but I didn't save the links. Might be a good spot to look for loliable patterns, if you feel up to it?

Otherwise, you could always just knit OTKs and then knit some lace toppers to go with them.

>> No.10164583

Really? The impression I got was that vintage sewing machines are basically unbreakable because they're so simple. You can still find sewing machines that are over a hundred years old and all they need is to be oiled regularly and have the rubber belt changed every few years. But you don't have to throw away the other one, I know a lot of seamstresses who have more than one machine and use different ones for different things.
Both are quite easy, I recommend practicing a bit before going to the real thing but once you get the hang of it it's smooth sailing from there on. Get embroidery hoops, keep your base fabric taut but NOT stretched, and do small but regular stitches.

>> No.10164612

Honestly, I just have a fairly standard modern Brother machine and it's held up great. It's stood up to being knocked around and travel when I've taken it interstate, sews through heavy and tricky fabrics very well and just runs well all round.

I think the vintage machines do look very nice but it is great having the features of a modern machine (stitch settings, easier care etc.).

>> No.10164733
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I'm getting conflicting information with my searches so I thought I'd ask here:
The only way to do a true flat lock stitch (NOT a stitch that just resembles one) is on an industrial machine meant specifically for it, right? I've seen a lot of "how to do a faux flat lock on your serger" but what I'm interested in doing is sewing together some neoprene (2mm) and after some research I learned the stitch most commonly used in wetsuits to avoid bulky seams is flat lock so that's what I would like to do
pic related

>> No.10164833

I've had a shitty Singer Esteem since I started sewing *years* ago; I literally walked into Walmart with my parents and they bought the cheapest one there. It finally broke beyond repair, and now I get to hunt for a new one, which is pretty exciting. I sew almost every single day, and am pretty advanced in technique now, so does anyone have any recommendations for my next machine?

>> No.10164848

What's the best way to get started with sewing for cosplay? I'm a complete newbie and I've never sewn anything before. My current plan is to make use of some patches I have and sew them (by hand) onto a jacket I have. The reason for this is so I can understand the foundation of what sewing actually is before I throw fabric into a machine and hit the pedal.

But what comes after that? It seems like the popular route is to just grab patterns off the internet and make them, but I don't know how useful that will actually be for me with regards to cosplay. There's a local workshop that does sewing basics, like setting up a machine (which seems useful) but after that the courses tend to be stuff like sewing cushion covers and such.

Is there a good approach to take here? Do I need to master different stitch types? If there's a good recommended YouTube channel or something that'd be great too. My cosplay plans have always been limited by lack of sewing knowledge (And wigs) and I'm looking to level these up hard.

>> No.10164856

Store bought patterns are easier to work with when you start out I think.
Just remember if something doesn't make sense Youtube will have a guide for it, no problem.
If you are a girl a seifuku is a good starter project. A pleated skirt is simple and you can see how it comes together easily. The collar attaching on a seifuku is simple but will teach you how to line things up and if it goes a little wrong won't look awful.
If I could give advice to myself in the past I would say it is okay to mess up a little. Don't fret. I used to just make whole cosplays and never wear them because I messed up some minor thing no one would notice but me. It is for fun, you will get better and if you want to you can fix the mess up in the future.
Good luck!

>> No.10164864

I would take the course if you've never sewn anything, I took a basic machine course when I was young that helped me get the basics down and having someone actually there you can ask questions to is invaluable.
Regarding cosplay, I'm not yet at the point where I'm comfortable drafting my own patterns, although I have modified patterns and traced patterns from existing clothing I have from just looking at information online. Simple modifications you probably can do without any formal training.
As for wigs, I'm far more of a wig maker (although the types of wigs I make are not the kind usually used in cosplay due to the high labor cost) than a seamstress and could endlessly go on about that, but like 90% of the wigs on this board are "hard front" wigs, meaning they're made entirely out of wefts which means you can make them pretty quickly entirely or almost entirely on a sewing machine (and even make the wefts yourself); If you look on YouTube for "making a wig by machine" or something along those lines, you can find endless tutorials, although admittedly these are not wigs for cosplay but the construction principles are the same

>> No.10164865

Janome or Brother. What do you want it to do for you anon?

>> No.10164955

Sounds good, I'm not female so a seifuku doesn't provide huge incentive but I can still do it for the skill of the exercise. Do you think a blazer would also help learning alignment?

With regards to different types of stitches, is it worthwhile learning them all or do I only need to master a few? I take it from your responses that moving onto patterns is a good idea, but do you have a roadmap in mind? Is there any benefit to working my way up from easy garments or should I just dive right in with a cosplay project and tough it out until I get it right?

>> No.10165010

I mean modern machines do the different types of stitches for you, it's more of knowing the appropriate foot, needle, and tension setting for the stitch (ex: double needles should not be used for wide stitches such as zig-zag stitches because the needle will likely hit the throat plate and break) + the appropriate stitch and thread for what you're making
If you mean by hand then yes, not all stitches are appropriate for all materials, and while you probably will not be sewing large areas by hand, a lot of projects require some amount of hand sewing. You can probably skip learning decorative stitches by hand unless you're planning on doing embroidery (that being said a lot of utility stitches can be used as decorative elements).
As for patterns, you said you have never sewn anything before. You really should start with something simple if you've never sewn, but half the battle with sewing cosplays imo is the material, as some materials are harder to work with than others (pleather or any other "sticky" materials like vinyl, very light or heavy materials, stretch materials, etc)

>> No.10165028

Blazers are a pretty hard place to start because they are fitted and there are a lot of parts to them. You can try it, but if you get discouraged easily it might be a bad place to start.
A pair of pants might be a good start. They are not super complicated. A cape is also good.
It really depends on what you like. Look for simplish things you are interested in cosplaying and go for it.
Do you have any characters you are interested in?

>> No.10165038

I've gotten a lot of use out of my Singer Heavy Duty. It's pretty versatile, I've used it for formal dresses, blackout curtains, and repairing denim, among other things.

>> No.10165048

In order: pillow case, apron, pyjama pants.

You can look up tutorials or buy a commercial pattern, whichever. That's pretty much how I started sewing. A blazer is kind of complex when you get down it it, if you wanna do it right (with tailoring and lining and everything)

>> No.10165073

Okay, sounds good - Thanks for your responses. The apron is a curious choice though, what's the reasoning for this one to be tougher than a pillow case but easier than Pajama pants? Is it the shape?

>> No.10165099

Seconding this! This is basically what they have you do in beginner classes.

>> No.10165102

A pillow case is just two rectangles and a wide hem. An apron is a different shape, can have pockets, the straps, etc. Pants have curved seams (and points to match up), a waistband, and may have pockets or elastic.

>> No.10165137

I bought a used Viking Rose from someone who had used it for years and years without any issues. I've only had it for a couple months, but somehow I've thrown the needle out of alignment (it hits the solid part of the needle plate instead of going down into the hole) Any idea how to fix this?

>> No.10165157

Don't worry so much about taking the "proper" route. Grab some old linen like bedsheets or curtains to use as mock up or practice fabric and just try getting used to pinning, cutting, and using different stitches. Make mistakes, learn from them, and try new things. That being said, taking a class and using patterns would be a great way to get your feet wet. The learning curve can be a little steep.

>> No.10165184

Take it to a shop or an older relative who knows their stuff. IMO its okay to try and fix things once you know how things should be working and you have a basic idea of how the machine works, but since you just got it take it to someone else.

>> No.10165267

Is it just the needle itself that's warped, or the whole needle holder? You're supposed to swap out needles regularly, some people say every project but depending on how much you use it every couple of months is fine, or whenever it bends, breaks or the point is damaged, or whenever you need a different type of needle. If you haven't changed the needle yet, try that first before doing anything more involved.

>> No.10165268

Learn the basics of sewing and pattern drafting as the latter can be invaluable for cosplay. I learned both from library books, the fundamentals haven't changed drastically over the years.

>> No.10165270


>> No.10165271


Vintage machines from the 60s/70s are workhorses and less likely to break because they were considered appliances, not hobby tools. Even vintage singer featherlights from the 20s-30s are good sturdy machines, it's just more risky because there's no parts availability.

Vikings are good modern machines, they still have metal internals unlike singers and brothers.

>> No.10165272


Depends what your budget is. Viking or Bernina if you want something that's going to last you for years. Whatever you buy, get a mid-range machine at least. Stuff like feed regulation and tension and good internals is more important than fancy stitches.

Currently available singers are not mid-range machines

>> No.10165473

I have an 80’s Singer and have already had trouble finding compatible parts and accessories for it. According to my local shop, most “universal” feet made nowadays will no longer fit it. Is there a reliable place online to get parts and accessories for older machines? I’ve looked on eBay and such but with individual sellers it feels like a bit of a gamble unless I come across a seller with the exact same model I have.

>> No.10165571


I've had good luck at estate sales, flea markets, anywhere old people or their heirs are selling shit that's been sitting in a basement for 30 years

>> No.10166466

Nayrt, but there is a pretty good vintage sewing machine group on facebook. They answer a lot of questions and can point you in the right direction for parts. They helped me find an ebay seller for bobbins on my vintage Pfaff

>> No.10168523

Singers made after the mid-sixties are of notably inferior quality and durability than the older machines. They break down easily and most hit the garbage accordingly. But the older machines are sturdier, easier to troubleshoot, easy to service yourself, and their longevity means there are lots of secondhand parts if you ever need anything. Another thing to keep in mind is that sewing machines stores generally want to sell you big ticket items like machines, so they'll always encourage you to dump your old setup.

>sincerely, anon with a sewing machine collection

>> No.10168560

i sell singer and viking sewing machines, if don’t have a big budget, the singer heavy duty is a good machine, but i would almost always recommend a viking. the viking emeralds are good workhorses

>> No.10168736

lrn 2 reply
Have you tried just swapping out the needle?
might save you a bunch of money if it works for you

>> No.10168737

>cut fabric
>not straight
>not straight
>not straight
>not straight
>rotary cutter
>not straight
eat my fucking ass, fuck this shit

>> No.10168739

This is pretty relateable. What are you cutting btw? I have problems with stretch materials (fuck you power mesh)

>> No.10168742

All kinds of fabric. From silk to cotton to faux-leather. I'm going nuts.

>> No.10168748

Have you tried using pattern weights to help keep the fabric in place when you cut? I have a set of store bought ones I use, but you can diy your own pretty easily or even use large washers (3/4" internal diameter or bigger) as a cheap alternative (like ~$0.50 each)

>> No.10168756

dude, you just need a relatively straight line. If you're sewing with commercial patterns their fat ass 5/8" seams make it easy to fix. otherwise, you need use a fucking ruler and a rotary cutter.

>> No.10168761

>use book as a heavyweight
>perfectly straight line
anon i...

thank you...

I'm using a ruler and rotary cutter, the problem was that I'm retarded and wasn't using anything to weigh the fabric down so it wouldn't slide around

>> No.10168764

For woven, especially open-weave fabrics you can pull a single thread from the selvage and it will make a perfect line up and down. I do this for long thin rectangles like ruffles.
For slippery fabrics that shift on the bias, you want to make sure that the grain is even before cutting. You can look up for videos, but you basically want to pull on two of the opposite corners of the fabric, then the other two, and it’ll straighten out the grain before you cut.
Also, are you marking lines before you cut? Air & water soluble markers, heat disappearing pens, and tailors chalk make it a lot easier to mark proper lines beforehand (and check that you’ll actually cut a straight line) You can tape your fabric to the floor gently without stretching it to make proper marks, then just cut with scissors after. You can also clothes pin the fabric gently to your large cutting mat and use the rotary cutter.

>> No.10168789


snip & rip that shit, my man

>> No.10168996

Hey /cgl/, I'm an utter noob at sewing (I literally can't even make a proper finishing knot when trying to fix the holes in my pants), but I'd like to learn how to do it properly. Eventually I'd like to do something related to clothing design, I'm a software developer right now and I hate it.
Where do I begin? Should I master the needle before I move on to a machine, or can I just go right away to the mechanic methods?

>> No.10169004

Machine sewing is very different from hand sewing, but you will need to do hand finishing on things like buttons so it is worth knowing how to use a needle for basic things like buttons and repairing holes. Being good at handsewing means diddly squat when it comes to machine sewing so don't aim to master it, just learn the basics of both. Start with books aimed at people learning the basics, or youtube. I prefer books for sewing simply because the basics and the best ways to construct garments have not changed, and youtubers/blogs often like to show you short-cuts which aren't going to be helpful if you want to get into design and manufacture.
Fashion-incubator is worth trawling through if you have an inkling that you may wish to start manufacturing your designs in future - focussed on the practicalities rather than design.

>> No.10169032

Thanks anon, I appreciate your advice. I'll try and find a cheap machine then.
What level of sketching/drawing do I need to design clothes? I'd like to know how to draw anatomy unrelatedly of sewing, but I'm curious.

>> No.10169048

You should be able to find beginner sewing classes in your area, they'll give you the basic skills you need to get started.
If you're planning on sewing your designs yourself, it doesn't take much, just enough to draw clean shapes. You can use a base figure drawn by another artist to make it easy. If you want to work with other people who will have to work from those sketches, you might want to learn a bit more than that.

>> No.10169132

I really really would like to make a dress out of silk, but I know silk is both expensive and tricky to work with. I would place my sewing skills at the lower end of intermediate. I've sewn with slippery synthetic fabrics before but sewing with silk is still pretty daunting to me, is there another project I should try before silk?

>> No.10169140

Silk is just the fiber, the weave is more important when it comes to ease of working with. Dupioni isn't slippery at all for example. What kind of silk are you looking at?

>> No.10169154

I'm interested in making a qipao (cheongsam), and personally I'm not a fan of dupioni although I have seen that used for it. I was thinking more charmeuse but I'm still not sure what I would use for the lining (thought about crepe de chine but I'm worried about the fragility)

>> No.10169173

I've used crepe, it's not very fragile. The usual fabric for a qipao is brocade, and you wouldn't need to line it, but if you want it solid rather than patterned, you could use either charmeuse or satin. Crepe de chine is also an option if you want it matte but that's not usually used for qipaos. To deal with slippery fabric, you'll want nice sharp pins to avoid tearing it, and I really like using wonderclips as well.

>> No.10169380

If you're really worried about wasting the silk, make a muslin first.

>> No.10169459
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I just bought this crochet pattern on etsy for animal crossing amigurumi. I can post the pdf if anyone's interested. Theres quite a few typos but you can figure it out pretty easily.

Alternatively, it's only $5 so supporting the maker would be neat.

>> No.10169462

Does anyone have any good advice for sewing four-way stretch velvet with a machine? I've tried pinning but even that is almost too slippery when right sides are together. The only other option I can think of is hand-basting, but I can just foresee myself basting for days since I'm trying to sew a paneled bodysuit.

>> No.10169505

There's a few different tricks for slippery fabrics such as:
>using a walking foot
>placing tissue paper underneath the fabric to stabilize it
>using clips instead of pins for gentle/slippery fabrics
>hand basting
>wash or tear away stabilizer

>> No.10169518

Dont be a douche like that.

>> No.10170328

This is my first time sewing and I got recommended McCall's M7700. I've been using a jersey knit polyester fabric and holy crap the fabric is so hard to sew. I'm going to follow through and finish the pattern no matter how awful it ends up so I can get more experience with sewing, but what's an easier fabric to work with? I need to rethink my next practice work.

>> No.10170355

a basic poplin or some sort of cotton is much easier. knit is a pain.

>> No.10170389

Seconding >>10170355 that you might want to stay away from stretchy knit fabrics for the time being and focus on woven ones. Go for something with minimal stretch that isn’t slippery. Maybe make a simple skirt out of a woven cotton fabric that can be ironed easily so you can develop a feel for pressing seams, hemming and nicely finishing a waistband. Zippers are also much easier to install with fabric that doesn’t stretch or slip around.

>> No.10170484
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Anyone have any tutorials/tips for making their own lace topped OTKS? I have brand ones but they’re all second hand and old. I feel like it’s not too much of a challenge but I’m a completely noob to sewing.

>> No.10170497

stretch the sock around big bottle or put it on someone and sew the lace on by hand

>> No.10170540

I hope this is okay to ask, does anyone have good head bow tutorials. There are some on Youtube that are varying in quality but I would like to make different types so I was thinking there might be some old GLB ones or something.
(If anyone knows where I could just look through old GLB patterns that would also be awesome.)

>> No.10170542

Just kidding! I found this if anyone else is interested in old GLB scans:

I would still love any recommended tutorials if you have them!

>> No.10171128

Have a look for the otome no sewing scans, they often have hair accessories. I like to interface bows so they're more sturdy and hold their shape better, which a lot of tutorials don't show.

>> No.10171172

lol there have been threads and threads made for sharing these types of pattens. fuck off back to tumblr with that virtue signaling

>> No.10172439

For knit and crochet, this site has translated versions of Japanese patterns, which are superior imo since they come with charts and you don't have to figure out arcane text and trust God it will end up looking somewhat like the picture. http://gosyo.co.jp/english/index.html#top

>> No.10177413
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I use a heavy industrial walking foot machine for technical fabrics such as cordura and milspec webbing. You will need to consider the feed type when looking into them.

>> No.10177622
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I still need to talk with you about getting some ahegao in a light-weight twill for a pleated skirt.

>> No.10177881
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Well, you know where to find me

>> No.10179379

Tissue paper between the layers so they can't slip against themselves, fine pins, and roller or walking foot.

>> No.10179820

Offtopic, but since the sticky says that we can discuss sewing does this mean there are any non-j-fash specific sewing threads here or anywhere else on 4chan that is a little bit weeby but not too weeby like lolita?

>> No.10179822

Well a little bit non-weeby is basically normalfag now to think of it.
Yeah redirect me there pls.

>> No.10180311

>fine pins
Wonder clips or the like would be a better idea imo

>> No.10180312

The only other place I've seen a sewing thread is /diy/, but it did very poorly. Barely anyone posted and it quickly got swept out. It was also 100% non-weeby. I'm all for more sewing threads though, I have some sewing related progress pics and questions.

>> No.10180332

I find pins okay with the tissue paper sandwich, but agreed that clips are probably better overall for mobile fabrics.

>> No.10180335

Honestly on 4chan, this is probably the best place to discuss sewing, both /fa/ and /diy/ don't discuss it nearly as in depth as we do here. Plus on /diy/ it's usually more utilitarian and less clothing oriented
On some fabrics like pleather which would easily show pin holes I like to use clips (usually those two prong metal hair clips because as a wig maker I have a lot on hand) but anon said the issue she had was slippery fabric and I feel like clips wouldn't solve that issue because they're nothing penetrating through the fabric to hold it in place. There are some water soluble fabric glues but I can see a problem with them leaving residue, especially on a "clingier" fabric like velvet. Not sure if water soluble thread would have this issue because I've never used it and then you're back to the issue of hand basting taking forever

>> No.10181399

I've heard that glass pins don't make holes in fabric, but also that they're extremely sharp. I don't trust myself... Meanwhile, even wonder clips are leaving pinch marks on things, but i guess its a bit better than holes.

>> No.10181410
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are there any decent sewing machines meant for kids, with safety features? I've seen a few online but the reviews are always abysmal. My 6 year old cousin would love to start sewing with a machine (she already does embroidery and some cross stitch) but I'd rather have her avoid a heavy duty machine if possible.

There's one I thought would be perfect since it had a plastic safety guard around the needle but the reviews said the actual machine/interior parts were trash.

>> No.10181416

Don't buy cheap machines to kids, they will end up hating the whole hobby when the machine is shit. Buy a decent one, teach her the basics and tell her to only sew when adults are nearby.

>> No.10181445

No. Either get her a proper machine to use with adult supervision or teach her to hand sew garments.

>> No.10181457

Get a real machine and provide adult supervision and peoper training. Your hands should never be close enough to the needle to get hit.

>> No.10181540

a pin fell inside my stitchplate and i tore the machine open looking for it but never found it. it’s not rattling anymore but now the tension is fucked and i can barely turn the hand wheel. this is a new machine, is it screwed?

>> No.10181562

nvm bobbin case was in wrong it’s fine now, hope the missing pin doesn’t come to bite me in the ass though

>> No.10181568

6 years old is pretty young but if you trust her to listen to directions, I would just let her use the full size machine with your or her parent's supervision and guidance. I was first allowed to use a machine at 10 and as long as she doesn't do anything like stick her finger under the needle or in the machinery she should be fine.
If you absolutely do not want her using a full sized machine, I would teach her to hand knit or crochet since she's not likely to hurt herself doing any of those

>> No.10181742

Like other anon said, hand stitch would be better ( and usefull later on ) But if you really want to buy her a kid sewing machine, try to find a retro one, my mom had one as a child during the end of the 60s~ begining of the 70s and it was more durable (I have seen some at flea market). Ironically my mom was scared that I broke her sewing machine will using it more than hurting myself.

>> No.10181765

What everyone else said, especially the 'hating it if the machine isn't any good' part. There are times I've nearly given up as an adult and it was because I had shit supplies/materials/tools.

Take it to a shop, we can't really answer that for you. The pin is probably somewhere you can't see, and even if it isn't, the shop should be able to fix the tension.

>> No.10184849

Thank you!

I'll take a look for a vintage kid's machine first.

>> No.10191562

I've never sewn anything before in my life. What's easiest to start? Hand stitch? Crochet? Machine?

What do I go for?

>> No.10191575

oooooh don't waste time handsewing. You should reserve that practice for truly decorative embroidery and stuff. Handsewing something like seams is a painful labor that you won't really gain anything from. Find a used machine, hunt for one

>> No.10191578

shaping shoulders/attaching sleeves is imo one of the hardest things of all to do well. Not a place to start. It's like the little boss before end level boss.

>> No.10191600

Someone already asked how to start sewing in this thread. Also crochet isn't sewing.

>> No.10191620

I have a Pfaff Creative 4.5 I really like, but it was definitely pricey and I only got it because it was a (well-appreciated) gift.

>> No.10191943

Am I retarded? I swear every time I sew on my machine I end up with the needle bar coming down on my thumb and hurting me

>> No.10192031


>> No.10192951

Yeah that's retarded.Why is your thumb anywhere near the needle bar while you're sewing?

>> No.10192959

Am almost done with a sage green crochet bolero - one of those where you make two hexagons, fold them double, then connect them, and am going to make a black short sleeved one next. Will post pics of green one on dress form when it's done and I'm satisfied. Also need to make black lace cuffs for VM velvet dress that's an inch too short on the sleeves.

Also wondering what to do with sparkly Neapolitan icecream cotton. Could make it a bolero too, but would be wearable with a limited amount of stuff in my wardrobe.

>> No.10192967

something tells me sparkly variegated yarn would look kind of tacky as anything wearable, save that for something else

>> No.10193725
File: 555 KB, 1512x2016, 20181021_223019-1512x2016.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

How do you manage to do that?

>> No.10193763

hold your fabric slightly farther out, it’ll stay straight as long as your fingers are still on the sewing machine but it doesn’t need to be RIGHT up in there

>> No.10193813
File: 3.07 MB, 2560x1920, 19-06-14-23-30-10-127_deco.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I'm still a novice at sewing and am coming to it after dabbling in tens of other creative mediums, but is there a term for what I'm making? I've been having fun sort of cannibalizing and frankensteining pieces of lace and trim to create appliques of sorts.

I'll probably sew them to garments or hats or add silk flowers to them and use them as brooches. They're just shittly handsewn onto black felt.

>> No.10193978

Crochet and knitting are crafts where you make things out of yarn with crochet hooks or knitting needles, so not related.

You need to know both hand stitching and machine sewing to actually make garments.

When I learned sewing we started with making a pincushion by hand, then moved on to machine sewing. It's detailed in >>10165048

>> No.10194950
File: 1.38 MB, 500x470, 1530102839649.gif [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have no idea what I'm doing but my line of thinking is that I can make clothes with a sewing machine, right?
I remember making a small bag or pouch in secondary school with an elastic thing that tightens up the bag but I think it was complete shit. I also made a wooden CD rack I threw down my stairs in pure rage one night
Where do I start here, what machines are good. From what I can gather, I want something that was built less as a hobby machine and more as an appliance, correct? But also then I'd prefer to keep this away from people I know

>> No.10194963
File: 2.38 MB, 4032x3024, 50296800-1240-44E3-8780-F8E5DE9BAA47.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Should I use cloth covered buttons or pearl buttons?

>> No.10194990

I vote pearl, but that's just because I like them. Personal taste.
Although, the glossy finish of the pearl would help break up all that matte white.

>> No.10195019

I'd say cloth for more classic, pearl for more AP style sweet. I'd personally go with cloth since I like subdued, but other anon is right that pearl will break up the matte white nicely.

>> No.10195021

Does anyone run something like a homemade lolita tumblr? I need some inspiration.

>> No.10195056

I'd call it lace applique I guess, but that photo is quite a mess with all the uneven cuts and unfinished edges. Show a finished piece maybe?

>> No.10195058

Cloth covered. All the lace styles here look very ’country-like’ so I think pearl would look out of place.

>> No.10195291

Cloth because I think it'll look nicer with that lace.

>> No.10195439

Brother has some good machines for beginners

>> No.10195451

I hate to say it, but those look like Regretsy pieces or a kid's handicraft.

>> No.10195452

Hand sewing is NOT a waste a time as something to learn and practice. One should learn how to handsew well along side machine sewing because there will always be small details that a machine can't do, like ladder stitching or sewing on hooks and snaps.

>> No.10195459

I think they were saying it was a waste of time to handsew long, straight seams that a machine could do in under a minute. Handsewing is a useful skill but isn't always the best option.

>> No.10198449
File: 132 KB, 645x484, headdress.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

help I'm on my way to Joann in an hour to pick up stuff for a headdress and wrist cuffs, do you guys have a go-to simple headdress for a basic old-school coord pattern? I tried searching archives, only found "this is the headdress I made" with no patterns, next stop is dishing out the otome no sewing book on my dead, spare computer.

Similar to pic related, but really any variation on this would be good. Love ya gulls

>> No.10198459

You dont necessarily need a pattern for these. You need two long ovals, about 2, 2.5 inches wide, and however long you need them for your head, add whatever embellishments you want on one, attach surrounding lace with pins, make or buy two straps/ribbons, attach those with pins, and layer the second oval on top, with everything on the inside like you're making a little package. Sew around, leaving an opening, flip it inside out, and sew the opening closed with a ladder stitch or something.

>> No.10202633

Just tossing out the idea, but small black buttons for a bit of contrast maybe?

>> No.10203515

anyone have any favourites in terms of presser feet?

>> No.10203666
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>> No.10203670


>> No.10203679
File: 88 KB, 540x540, IMG_20190622_175515_242-540x540.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Ha! Is this what it feels like to win the lottery???

>> No.10205467

I'm trying to get better at serging and the major issue I have is that there's always a ton of loops at the edge. The tension is fine, and when I cut the fabric with the knife it looks good. but, I don't want to trim off too much of the allowance, so I try to not feed the fabric through the knife, just very close to it. Is there basically no way but to use the knife to get perfect edges?

>> No.10205677

You'll need to adjust your machine to the fact that you aren't using the knife. On mine you slide a lever that adjusts the looper needle position and the knife pops up and twists out of the way.

>> No.10205852

I think there are some handmade threads on this board, but otherwise you'll have to do some deep diving

>> No.10205854

I have a Singer Brilliance 6180 that has been very beginner friendly for a beginner like me. Make sure to get one with an automatic needle threader - it's made my life so much easier. My machine also has a light, it's computerized, and has numbers on its face to easily show you how to guide your thread. I happened to find mine in the Facebook marketplace for $50 without cables (so essentially $70-80), but Michael's sells them for roughly $120-150. If you wait until the good sales kick in, you could probably get a machine for a better price.

>> No.10205856

I'd like to know this as well. Has anyone ever bought any off brand presser feet that they've had success with? I'd prefer not spending a chunk of change, but I don't want to sacrifice quality either.

>> No.10206893

I've bought some off aliexpress, even a walking foot, and never had any problems. There's a good chance they come from the exact same factory as the brand name ones

>> No.10210311

Ive got to create a body harness/ mesh top together and im daunted with how i should do it. The stitching with a machine would be very small and quick but im afraid of messing it up over so many little pieces to sew.
However doing it by hand would be easy to do 1 but to sew each piece one after the other would be a bit tough.
Should i use a machine and just close the stitch asap for speed? Or do it by hand and make a bunch of cross boxes with accuracy to hold it strong?
Im working with elastic no wider than 1-2 cm.

>> No.10210319

I'm a proud owner of a Viking Emerald 118 and I'm very happy with it. Has handled everything I've thrown at it. For a while I was sad I didn't have fancy embroidery stitches that I would have gotten with a more crappily made brother, but now I'm seeing I really want specific features from an embroidery only machine.

I made a dump with a bunch of scans of OnS, should be in the archives. I'll find the link again when I'm home

>> No.10210388

Sounds tricky, I think personally I would do it by machine but lower the max speed to go more carefully and avoid going off track.

>> No.10211143


Here we go! Found the scans. Also here's the link to a bunch of GLB and GosuRori scans. https://chochololita.livejournal.com/ It'd be cool if the next anon who makes a sewing thread would stick these in the OP so we don't have to keep tracking them down.

>> No.10211160

Genuine question (not pointed at scanner-chan, thank you so much!)

Why do people call it "Gosurori" so commonly when it's clearly just attempting to write the English phrase "Gothloli" in japanese? They mix up their Ls and Rs, we don't. We speak English and can pronounce it as intended. Does the magazine itself ever use that spelling in English or was it just weebs taking the pronunciation too seriously? Is it just to differentiate the magazine from the actual style?

>> No.10211170
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>> No.10212193

Mm I really think it's just because that's how you romanize the characters. ゴ go ズ zu ロ ro リri. Zu and su are basically the same thing, but you do also see Gozurori occasionally. I can't think of an instance of the magazine spelling it out, but I'm not the most knowledgeable. Also excuse my weeb but Gothloli just sounds unbearably dumb to me so idk

>> No.10212197

I think it's supposed to ironic/funny but lolita humor is really bad so...

>> No.10212221
File: 86 KB, 452x584, e8a3ca49a621a12183509620f82946d97389799e_hq.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


This magazine? The orange/yellow lettering in the middle also spell out gosurorisutairu (gothloli style).

idk why other people do it, I know I do it because I was using kana to search yja in its early days, and spelling it out in romaji is sometimes helpful to memorise it correctly. Btssb with its full spelling was some really horrendous thing....

>> No.10212909

Gothloli sounds dumb but being American and pronouncing it as "gosurori" doesnt? The latter sounds like you're ridiculing Japanese accents. "I RIKE RICE. I AM GOSURORI". Goth and loli are both English-derived words, and the magazine is just combining them and attempting to write them in Japanese,

>> No.10214425

desu i pretty much exclusively buy cheap Chinese feet from eBay/AliExpress and don't have problems, I bought a walking foot for my old Janome machine and it looks identical to the brand name walking foot that came with my new Brother machine

>> No.10214428

Are Gingher shears worth it? Thinking about asking for a pair for my birthday

>> No.10214743

Someone post that stuffed bunny pattern

>> No.10215427

Gingher 8" shears are $15 on Amazon right now. I caved after having misplaced my nice shears for like a month, and checked Amazon and boom cheap. I like them a lot. I like how heavy they are. I'd probably be happy with them at $40- for $15 I'm thrilled.

>> No.10215536

I bought both the dressmaker shears and utility shears because they were both so cheap. Excited because I wanted some leather scissors

>> No.10215774

I'm starting to really seriously look into getting a multi-needle embroidery machine to do merch and costume pieces. Any anons have machine or brand recommendations? There are a lot of companies that make multi-needles that I don't recognize, and I'm not sure whether to go with a brand I know like Brother or Bernina or a company that seems to ONLY make these kinds of machines.

>> No.10215812

I definitely recommend going to a sewing machine shop in person if you're making such a big investment. They'll let you try out the machines. If you don't have a shop nearby it's probably worth a long drive if you have a large budget.

>> No.10215910

Can someone explain the point of babylock having a dedicated sashiko machine when sashiko is like, just a normal stitch you can do on any machine? Am I retarded or missing something?

>> No.10216269

Thanks! If you have any links, I'll gladly take them. All the more reason not to overspend

>> No.10218259

It...isn't a normal machine stitch though. Most straight stitch machines don't replicate the look of a hand-sewn running stitch, they use a two thread lock-stitch so there isn't any gap between visible stitches. Sashiko is a running stitch with a single thread so you get the same gap you would if you were hand-sewing.

>> No.10218842

Thank you so much for these!

>> No.10220594

I have a question that I can't seem to find answers for online. I'm trying to trim fabric with ribbon, in such a way that it also finishes the edge. How do I actually do this? Should I be finishing the edge first and then attaching the ribbon? Should I just be doing a straight stitch on either side? In general, what's a good resource for learning techniques like this?

>> No.10220605

If you want to finish the edge with the ribbon you need to bind the edge, there are tutorials out there for bound edges. Basically you want to run a zigzag stitch over your raw edge if the fabric is prone to fraying, then sew your ribbon to the front right sides facing each other with a straight stitch, and then fold the ribbon over and whip-stitch it onto the back of your fabric.

>> No.10220606

I can't say I'm looking forward to whip-stitching considering it's a cape. There's like 6 metres of ribbon.

>> No.10220631

You can also just fold the ribbon over the raw edge and sew both sides at once with a straight stitch, it's not quite as pretty but it's much faster.

>> No.10220672
File: 394 KB, 650x334, vs wings.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I have a few question based on picrel:
-anyone here has any idea on how to sew those blink stuff on the jacket?
-what are those blink stuff made off
-is there any sketch on how I supposed to line them up so when they're worn, the blinks are line up properly?
-where I can get them?

>> No.10220676

Anon can you clarify what "blinks" are? I can't tell if those are leds or just sequins from the photo

>> No.10220680

sorry I'm pretty new to english name materials, I think I was referring to the sequins.

>> No.10220700
File: 208 KB, 640x640, 192Pcs-25mm-Laser-Large-Sequins-pvc-flat-round-loose-sequin-Paillettes-Sewing-wedding-craft-Belly-Dancing.jpg_640x640.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I think they are just large sequins like ones commonly used in dance costumes, which you need to attach by hand. Should be able to find something similar by just looking for "large sequins" or something equivalent in your language. Not sure exactly how big the ones in the photo are, but big sequins usually have the hole on one side instead of the center, pic related is available on AliExpress and says it's 25mm.

>> No.10220710
File: 142 KB, 800x1199, pink balls.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

how do you sew them? just the top part or both top and bottom? how to align the sequins so they're just like pic related? I don't have any sewing mannequin to see the look while sewing them.

>> No.10220713

Don't know how you'd sew the bottom since it's just the top part that has the hole. You should plot out where you want to put the sequins before you sew them down to make sure you have them in a straight line. Sewing sequins on is tedious, there isn't really a way around that

>> No.10220738

thanks anon.
It seems that on AliExpress they don't have much of the no texture sequins with flat and opaque-like-mirror rainbow colours. what material do you think they're made of? is it from metallic paper paste onto plastic sheets?

>> No.10220782


This is how my Bodyline skirt was put together (have sold it since tho, sorry for lack of pics) :

1. Sew the ribbon, flat, on the wrong side of the fabric, along the outer edge (like, where you want the cape/skirt to end)
2. Trim the edge so that the raw edges are shorter than the ribbon
3. Flip the ribbon onto the right side. Since you sewed the outside to the wrong side of the fabric, the raw edges are now sandwiched between the fabric and the ribbon.
4. Sew along the top of the ribbon.

Since you're sewing a cape, I'll go ahead and mention ribbons aren't bias tapes and don't take corners and curves all that well, though you prob already know that.

>> No.10220785

This store seems to have a variety of sizes and colors in plain metallic finishes: https://lnhome.aliexpress.com/store/1195039 For your reference picture you probably want the largest size they offer

>> No.10220850

Looks like it's large disk sequin fabric. Like this stuff. You can get various sizes of sequin.

>> No.10221244

thank you for this.

>> No.10221248
File: 56 KB, 698x518, 41f7817e1edcc24de92d4ff93c19970c--norwegian-style-norway.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Any place where /sew/ get their traditional clothing template? I'm looking specifically for Bunad..

>> No.10221249

I'm doubtful I could find bias tape that looks good enough. Maybe I try using bias tape underneath though?

>> No.10221280


You can make your own bias tape.

>> No.10221289


>> No.10225180

I wanna start drafting my own patterns from scratch. After doing very heavy modifications to commerical patterns, I think I'm ready to move to the next level. I'm definitely planning on getting a French curve, I previously was using one I borrowed from a co-worker, but what else would be good to have in my toolkit? I also have a large cutting surface (36x48) available since I prefer to use my rotary cutter most of the time

>> No.10225188

I know this is pretty OT but do any gulls quilt that would be willling to give advice/guidance to a newbie? I've been sewing cosplay/clothes/whatever for years but want to expand into quilting. Figure if I had another gull to guide me we could send each other cute fabric links and insp.
I can drop my contact info if anyone's interested.

>> No.10225218

Do I need to/is it even possible to use fusible interfacing on real leather? Planning on making a coat and have some concerns about the lapels. My current plan is to use full grain leather

>> No.10225227

It seems technically possible but I'm concerned about getting the iron to heat the interfacing through the leather without burning it. Can you get a sample of your leather to do a test run?

>> No.10225232

Yeah, there's a leather distributor I was planning on visiting in person in the next state over because I wanna see it in person and I'll probably pick up a few samples while I'm there. If I'm flattening the seams with glue, how do I go about lining the coat? I heard you shouldn't use topstitch on the edges of leather because it weakens it

>> No.10225255

I quilt! I learned piecing from Missouri Star Quilt Company, Midnight Quilt Show, and Jordan Fabrics on YouTube. MQS has great tutorials on machine quilting as well, but I either do a very simple quilt or I send it to be long arm quilted by a local shop.
MSQC is actually really good to learn piecing techniques to make it easier, like half square triangles, instead of having to do weird seams all the time.
Your first quilts can be made out of cheap fabric from Joann, but get it on sale! Fabric from Bluprint (who runs MQS) would be the next step up. For a real project I would definitely get Moda, Robert Kaufman, etc. Quilting cotton in general is not as quality as apparel fabric, but it gets pretty close.
I started out with pre cut fabrics, so I didn't have to get a big mat and rotary cutter for a while, but they are critical for the hobby. Hobby Lobby sells them for very inexpensive, and most rotary cutters work just fine.
If you have more questions let me know!

>> No.10225280

I don't know much about quilting but my mom got huge amounts of fabric on ebay, the best deals are the ones where someone's family is getting rid of their stash and they're selling big lots for cheap to get it out of the house quickly.

>> No.10225401

Can I get away with using a denim needle on leather? It's not that I can't find a leather needle, it's that I cannot find anyone that makes a double leather needle (only industrial machines with two needles meant to sew leather, and I don't have a few grand to drop on an industrial machine)

>> No.10225528

No. A leather needle is specifically shaped to leave minimal holes in the leather. A denim needle is round.

>> No.10225585

French curves (the little pieces of plastic with different curves), French curve/hip curve, and clear grid rulers are my main tools for flat patterning/pattern modification. Other useful items that people don't always think of are clear tape, a tracing wheel, and an awl.

>> No.10225658

Why do you need a double leather needle? Double needles are usually just used to create sturdy but stretchy hems on knit. They can probably be used for trims as well, but the zigzag mess on the back wouldn't look great.

>> No.10225693

Yes. Fashion-incubator has some decent articles pertaining to this exact subject. I would be pressing from the side of the interfacing though rather than the leather.

She also has fusing maps which may help you.

>> No.10225733

Anyone made their own lunch bag/cooler tote or other type of insulated pouch? What did you use as the insulated lining? I'm looking at something called "insul-bright" right now

>> No.10227549
File: 24 KB, 510x510, bernette.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hello, my mom's birthday is in 3 weeks and I was thinking of getting her a sewing machine (she recently complained that she didn't have one) but I don't know of any good brands or what features one should have. Can any of you help me with this?

Is bernette's sew&go1 any good?

>> No.10227850

Bernina's a good reliable brand if you're willing to invest. What kind of sewing does your mom do? Different features are useful for different applications. I also honestly recommend buying your machine through a local store, they'll know more about different machines than a user who will only have seriously used 2-3 different machines before. The shop where I got mine also offered 5 years annual maintenance and 3 hours to teach me how to use my machine's specific features, all included for the same price I would have paid online.

>> No.10228332

Brother makes good ones, I've never had to take mine in to be looked at.

>> No.10228338

Because Goff Lolly, pronounced with big fat round nasal America or Australia accents is how so many people say this and we hate it.

>> No.10228349

loli isn't pronounced lolly. it's low-lee

>> No.10228416

Yes, yes, it is. But lots of people are stupid and ironically say lolly. Gawth Lolly. Bleh. Just like some people pronounce lolibrary as lolly-brary instead of low-library.

>> No.10228628

Anyone got any recs for a good heavy duty machine? My budget is about $500 or less, not looking for an industrial machine (yet, maybe someday), just something that can handle a lot of vinyl, denim, leather, and other similar materials. My current machine isn't cutting it, even with the right needle and a "hump jumper"

>> No.10229084

Buy one of the lower tier machine from a high end manufacturer. Get some thing with all metal innards. Skip a computerized model. I bought a Viking Emerald 118 two or three years ago and it's handled everything I've thrown at it. Was like $400? On sale? Also if you decide to upgrade to a $$$ machine later it'll hold value better. Resale for big box store tier machines is crap.

>> No.10231835

You can make really pretty lace with crochet especially if you use thread. Might look especially cool on a classic coord

>> No.10232427

I got a kinda big butt and wide hips (that one is not changeable even though I'm in the process of losing weight, it's my bones), despite the rest of me being pretty thin, how do I go about modifying a bodysuit/leotard pattern to keep my ass from hanging out? A lot of bottoms that are cute on other girls look obscene on me

>> No.10232504

I just bought a sewing machine but I'm way to scared to buy any proper fabric just to ruin it. Everything in Canada is so unbelievably expensive I just get nervous to work on anything. I've just started sewing but does anyone have some good recommendations for cheap fabric thats good to get better at sewing with?

>> No.10232543


>> No.10232549


Thrift cheap ugly low quality bedsheets -- only for the fabric, not to actually make clothes from.

>> No.10232556

Go to fabric swap-n-sells, find fabric lots on kijiji, and buy shitty sheets and curtains. Fabric stores also keep clearance racks. You'll likely be able to find cotton broadcloth in there.

>> No.10232687

Look for full hip and bum adjustments. Generally it's a slash and spread kind of a deal since you will need more length as well as width for a big butt.

Seconding old bedsheets and clearance rack fabric.

>> No.10232782

You may want to check eBay to see if any Canadian sellers are doing a fabric or quilting "destash", usually these people are trying to move a large amount of fabric for cheap as a way of reducing clutter in their homes

>> No.10232924

I also knit and crochet and was thinking of making lace toppers for socks. Anyone have any patterns or links to lace tutorials. I search ravelry already but didn’t find anything

>> No.10233036

If you're into country or another style where crochet lace is suitable, some wristcuffs would be cute too

>> No.10233201

A couple years ago I was gifted a Viking machine from the 70s, lady complained about it catching and jamming all the time but it just needed to be cleaned well and reoiled. Works like a dream and you can sew 6 layers of denim no problem.

>> No.10233608
File: 837 KB, 696x858, Screen Shot 2019-08-01 at 5.48.44 PM.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

What kind of fabric is this orange eye made of?

>> No.10233611

It's not fabric, it's thread. It's been embroidered by a machine

>> No.10234175

I want to try getting into resin and jewelry making but I'm not sure where to start. Any recommendations for basic tutorials and materials to buy?

>> No.10234523
File: 304 KB, 518x759, vintage simplicity.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I recently came to appreciate how fucking incredible patterns are after failing to self draft my own for my first cosplay costume for months. I thought there wasn't a pattern for the bodice I needed, but I was just too much of a dumb ass beginner to consider altering an existing pattern or embracing that I'd be better off a little inaccurate anyway. So, I wanted to open a discussion about patterns and provide a thread to drop any freebies that you all may have. Patterns for all types of clothing and accessories are appreciated.

Helpful Links:
>sewmag.co.uk (Free patterns w/ free sign up)

Discussion Questions:
1) What's your go-to / favorite pattern?
2) Favorite brand? (ie. Burda, Simplicity, etc.)
3) Is there a brand that you refuse to use? If so, why?
4) If you could wish a pattern into existence what would it be for?
5) Have you ever used an indie pattern (like off Etsy for example)? If so, what was your experience? Would you recommend it?

>> No.10234525 [DELETED] 

I learned the basics of pattern drafting at the same time as sewing, and I definitely think pattern modification is often the way to go. There are usually fit problems with your first basic block even if it's to your own measurements because all bodies are body shaped and flat drafting is an approximation. Add in making alterations from there as extra sources of error every time and it's usually better to start with a commercial pattern or predrafted block unless you have major asymmetry or fit issues.

>1) What's your go-to / favorite pattern?
Weirdly it's the English gosurori translation bloomer drafting tutorial which was the first drafted pattern I ever made.
>2) Favorite brand? (ie. Burda, Simplicity, etc.)
Big 4 are all much of a muchness. I haven't gotten into indie patterns.
>4) If you could wish a pattern into existence what would it be for?
A bullet bra pattern that fits me, a blazer that zips into a high-collared jacket, and a structured, low-back, fitted long dress with multiple options.

>> No.10234527

I learned the basics of pattern drafting at the same time as sewing, and I definitely think pattern modification is often the way to go. There are usually fit problems with your first basic block even if it's to your own measurements because all bodies are body shaped and flat drafting is an approximation. Add in making alterations from there as extra sources of error every time and it's usually better to start with a commercial pattern or predrafted block unless you have major asymmetry or fit issues.

>1) What's your go-to / favorite pattern?
Weirdly it's the English gosurori translation bloomer drafting tutorial which was the first drafted pattern I ever made.
>2) Favorite brand? (ie. Burda, Simplicity, etc.)
Big 4 are all much of a muchness. I haven't gotten into indie patterns.
>4) If you could wish a pattern into existence what would it be for?
A bullet bra pattern that fits me, a blazer that zips into a high-collared jacket, and a structured, low-back, fitted long dress with multiple options.

>> No.10234529

Any recommendations for sewing related channels on Youtube? I enjoy watching Rachel Maksy, Bernadette Banner, Coolirpa, Angela Clayton, Annika Victoria, and Axceleration, but I'm always looking for more content

>> No.10234532

>Angela Clayton
Fuckin lmao. Is she still as spoiled and sheltered as before?

>> No.10234537
File: 38 KB, 945x819, pickachu what.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hold on, nani the fuck? I've barely started watching her, so I don't know much about her besides that she has some official patterns and her voice can be a little monotonous and grating. Is there some drama or something?

>> No.10234592


This site has lace edgings and patterns. For sock toppers, you could probably just knit an inch or so of ribbing in the round, make a shit ton of increases (to make it ruffled and not just a flat lace tube) and then knit one of the edging patterns here

>> No.10234599

iirc she used to be a tripfag or something

>> No.10234629

To expand, measure your leg circumference at the point where you'd wear them, subtract an inch (so they'll have negative ease and stay on), then multiply it by the stitches per inch. Cast on that number if its even, add one if its odd (or round to the nearest multiple of 4 if you wanna do 2x2 rib) knit the ribbing for an inch, then make maybe an increase every 3 stitches or so, evenly distributed. If the stitch count after the increase row isnt a multiple of the number of stitches in the lace pattern (in the round, this is just the center portion of the chart, not the edges), do a second increase row and evenly distribute more increases until the stitch count is equal to a multiple of the stitches in the lace pattern.

So for example say my leg is 13" around where I want to wear them, i would subtract 1 to get 12". If I'm knitting at 6 st to the inch I would cast on 72. During the increase row I increase every 3 st and end up with 96 stitches, and if I have a 16 stitch repeat on my pattern then I'll have 6 repeats.

>> No.10234653

Not much, she made a few pissy posts on here years ago, I think she was 16-17? Some people also don't like that she lives with her parents and relies on their financial support, and that she's made several patterns with McCalls despite her construction not being great or historically accurate. But I do like watching her videos, they're chill. Her editing skills could use work though, she always makes cuts in the middle of a sentence and it bugs me, and it has not improved since I started watching her.

>> No.10234724

if you live in norway, find your closest husflid, and they probably will have a fabric pack for purchase.

>> No.10236330

An industrial machine is something I'm thinking I need more and more, but there's just so many out there and unlike domestic machines, they tend to be very single-function (like a machine that ONLY does straight stitch, zigzag, bar tack, etc)... Where do I even start with choosing one? I see a lot of denim, faux leather, and real leather

>> No.10236351

Why do you think you need one?

>> No.10236360

Speed + domestic machines not cutting it

>> No.10236470

Industrial machines are made just for one stitch each. Less moving parts so it will last longer. And if you didn't know yet they come with the table, you can't move it around as easily as home machines. So if you want one you will still need your old one for other stitches. It's not really worth it if you sew as a hobby.

>> No.10236474

You could try the Singer heavy duty machine

>> No.10236478

I don't know much about industrial machines, but I have a Singer Heavy Duty that has handled my denim and leather needs reasonably well.

>> No.10236981

Can I do a pleated waist jsk for a cupcake petti, or do all pleats (regular and box) need a a-line petticoat?

There was a tumblr post explaining all this years ago, but I can't find it in my bookmarks or from searching.

>> No.10237003

A cupcake will spread the pleats unevenly
from top to bottom and look very bad

>> No.10237200

You can if you want to (i.e. there's space to do it without overstuffing the top like you would in an A line JSK) but pleats will fall differently and not necessarily look as nice with a cupcake petti. If you're going to want to wear both shapes, smaller pleats are often preferable to larger ones aesthetically.

>> No.10237650
File: 322 KB, 1280x720, tumblr_n67tvcSWdy1qkamgoo4_1280[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

It can be done but it's best with a slightly smaller cupcake petti. I personally like the look.

I think in this pic Misako is wearing a cupcake petti and the girl wearing the pink/bunny colourway is wearing an a-line, so you can see how it compares?

>> No.10239259

Why are hobbyists so adverse to collaborative sewing projects? When I was a theatrical seamster it was easy to find a seamstress gf who enjoyed building together, but now that I mostly interact with cosplayers it's been such a deal breaker when they won't do ANY sewing, drafting, draping, etc. in the presence of another person.

I figure some of you have insights on this topic.

>> No.10239280

Maybe it’s because they’re nervous to show their unconventional methods? Just a guess. I’ve had plenty of friends where we had sewing parties together and it’s a great way to feel motivated and get shit done.

>> No.10239285

Are they looking to monetise from making tutorials? Or do they hot glue everything? Cosplay was often "if it works, it works" kind of thing rather than having a lot of tried-and-tested methods like theatrical costumes, even though the techniques cross over. So it can be intimidating to work with someone who knows the way things "should be done" or you may come across as the sort of person who's a dick and always going on about how their way is the best/better.

>> No.10239348

My experience with cosplay friends is that most are self-taught and tend to take a lot of shortcuts, plus they often don’t really care how a costume holds up in the long run or looks on the inside as long as it photographs well. If you’re a professional, they’re probably self-conscious around you.

>> No.10239717
File: 401 KB, 568x568, 4C36ADBC-AE92-4B9E-A81A-CF274AD0B8B4.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I like to sew my fingers together. Then I get anxiety and I can't resist pulling my fingers apart.

>> No.10240001 [DELETED] 
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>> No.10240022
File: 36 KB, 554x554, images.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Do you people know how to make basic t-shirts as well? This skill will be very important in the upcoming apocalypse and I wanted to learn it
I also want to larp as light yagami so i'd like to know how to make a decent suit like pic related.

>> No.10240071

A basic t shirt isn't hard to
make, it'll be easy and more professional looking on a serger, but you can do it with a zig zag stitch on a standard machine. Find a t shirt that fits you, trace it to make a pattern, add a seam allowance, and you've got yourself a free pattern

>> No.10240100

T shirt is easy
Button up is not

>> No.10242682
File: 3.00 MB, 2963x2368, 20190818_205635.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

OP here and I guess my wish for a heavier duty machine was granted because this cast iron beast was just given to me by the parents of a close friend who were planning on just donating it to Goodwill. It needs a new power supply and "go" mechanism since it was meant to be a knee control and I want to retrofit it to have a foot pedal but I'm very excited as all the mechanical parts are working

>> No.10242869

Nice, take care of it and it'll last you a lifetime

>> No.10242887

I'm really excited, I just ordered a power supply/foot pedal for a Kenmore machine that's the same voltage and looks like the same plug style so I'm praying it'll work (I know Kenmore and White machines share a lot of parts). I have no idea if the wiring inside the machine is okay since I believe this machine to be from the late 40s or early 50s but I have the means to repair it if I need to. Also this machine uses a very strange bobbin? It's large and not the typical standard size bobbin you see on modern machines, but thankfully people make reproductions. I'll keep you gulls updated

>> No.10243058

does a dressform help you to git gud or is it the sort of thing where if you're still sucking that hard there's no point in buying one yet?

>> No.10243085

Anyone have advice for embroidered accessories or embroidery work for Gothic Lolita? I love embroidery but can't really find a way to integrate it into my wardrobe

>> No.10243093

I know a lot of people suck with commercial patterns but can drape patterns super easily on a dress form, so as long as you have the basics down you can probably have a use for it.

>> No.10243101
File: 82 KB, 155x223, pendant.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Pendants, rings, brooches all look great. You could also embroider on a rectangle headpiece, or do a big piece on a skirt or bodice, or sash.

You could do florals, a tree with bare branches and some crow silhouettes, bats, an ornamental gate, crosses...whatever spooky things you can fit in there.

If you look up mossmarchen on Instagram, she does ribbon embroidery and is pretty much exclusively into gothic.

And pic related is a pendant I did. I'm still kind of practicing, not really sure where I want to go and what I want to get out of it. I like making pendants though, they're pretty quick and feel really satisfying.

>> No.10243159

If you're into something more casual, you definitely could embroider some tote bags

>> No.10243164

This is giving me some spicy inspiration. I want to try embroidering some teeth around the hem of one of my solids

>> No.10243302

When it comes to wrangling super slippery, slightly stretchy fabric, would it be possible to just iron a sheet of light water soluble fusible interfacing onto my fabric to make it easier to handle, then dunk the finished product in water to dissolve it? I know hem stabiliser tape is a thing but I’m looking for something to use all over.
I have some mega slippery satin that I can’t even seem to cut a decent rectangle out of without the fabric moving around when I look at it too harshly and it’s driving me nuts. I’m already using weights instead of pins and a rotary cutter instead of scissors. Send help

>> No.10243316

The water soluble interfacing does leave a bit of residue so I would worry about it messing with the texture of the fabric, plus it's expensive. What are you struggling with, cutting it or sewing it?

>> No.10243329

Both, but mostly marking and cutting. It’s like it keeps moving around underneath the pattern paper no matter what I do, so the pieces I cut out don’t come out the shape they’re supposed to. I’ve mostly been dealing with it by using extra seam allowance as a margin for error but it’s still a pain in the ass.

>> No.10243339

I'm thinking about getting a serger. I want a more professional look on my stretch knit garments. Is it really worth it to spring for a baby lock one? Not having to fuck with the tension or deal with the tricky threading is very tempting but I'm interested in the Evolution and I think it goes for about $2-2.5k on average

>> No.10243415

I usually gently duct tape stretch / slippery fabric to my floor, then use an air soluble marker to trace the pattern. Cut the pieces individually and not stacked. You can use scissors on the lines after since the fabric will shift with the lines.

Instead of interfacing, you can trace your patterns onto freezer paper and iron it on, shiny side down. It peels right off after with no residue.

>> No.10243426

I put my fabric between 2 sheets of crepe paper ( the cheap one in roll for sewing ) and pin it, cut it and also sew trought those layers ( so my machine don't chew the fabric )

>> No.10244850

super helpful, thanks for that. answered p much exactly what i was wondering about. dressform may indeed be worth getting at this point. depends on how the bodice block route goes. i'm currently three quarters of the way through drafting front & back slopers to see if that helps any before pulling the trigger on a dressform.

the armscye curves have me spooped at the moment. can't tell whether i'm overlooking something or overthinking minor details. any guidance there?

>> No.10245151

Do I still need to bar tack on leather? Or will this be counterproductive by perforating the leather more than it needs to be therefore weakening it? Google isn't being helpful

>> No.10246209

I'm making normal suit pants out of suiting wool, and the waistband has me stumped. I know I need to use interfacing for it, and I used Shirtailor 931TD and another one (Pellon P44F) but they were both too weak for it (the waitband would bend over constantly when I moved around in the pants). I felt up some of my (bought) suit pants and it feels like whatever's in the waistband is actually pretty heavy. Can anyone recommend a type of interfacing for them, any tips or tricks for sewing waistbands? Everything online says "use light/midweight" but the ones I used ARE light/midweight and it failed completely.

I used fusible stretchy interfacing when I was making a spandex shirt with applique, and it worked well enough. If the project is one sided (ie. one side can have fusible interfacing and it's fine) I'd recommend that.

>> No.10246265

I do just fine with my Juki, I believe it was around $400-500. Just don't get that Brother server everyone recommends, it's awful compared to pretty much anything a step up in price. Of course if the price of a Babylock is no big deal to you go for one of those.

>> No.10246287

Yes, but only if you're going to be putting lots of stress on a certain area. Generally bartacking leather has a pretty visible effect on how the garment drapes, so be smart about it.

>> No.10246288

I just cleaned out my sewing closet today, 3 giant boxes of stuff to donate and 3 huge trash bags of scraps...it's still super full. Why am I such a fabric pack rat?

>> No.10246353

I feel ya, I cleaned out my fabric collection. There are bits I kept that were just "big" enough to be useful but for minor things, like a fabric pull tab... right. One of those "you just never know", and now you know. Good on ya anon, you made room for new fabric hoardings, haha.

>> No.10246518

I was thinking about around the in-seam pockets since those are typically a stress point. For the record I'm making a coat with lapels that's about knee length, my guess is that there isn't gonna be too much stress except near the pockets

>> No.10246521

Anon apologize for my noob question, but which Juki model do you have? I always thought of Juki as making industrial machines therefore being very single function, and I want some versatility which is part of the reason I was considering saving up for the Evolution

>> No.10246537
File: 1.09 MB, 1185x2553, EPSON001.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Anon I don't know how much good you'll get out of this as it's from a McCall's pattern from 1988 and some of these may not be manufactured anymore, but I thought I would scan it for you anyways. Excuse the print showing from the other side and the shadows of my hand, I had to hold it in place on the scanner plate because I couldn't close the lid

>> No.10246540

Tried looking for specific waistband interfacing?

>> No.10246545


Thanks anons, I think I'll do you me research on waistband specific interfacings and see what JoAnn's has. That suitweight one looks like a good possibility.

>> No.10246563

Cute colorful hats are very easy to make and there are tons of YouTubes to help you along! I am making my first hat and it is quite easy. Good luck!

>> No.10247118

Well trying to be good and not over do it again. I made a pact with myself to properly gut my house before I start trying for kids with the hubbie. (had a lot of stuff from my grandma still, and like 50 years of xmas stuff from her in the attic.)

>> No.10247308

I started dabbling in bobbinlace/pillowlace, I got some nice starters out of http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/html/warm/catalog.htm . It seems the first of that list ("A B C Book of Crocheted Edges and Corners") could get you somewhere.

>> No.10249614

welp. bodice block has been a success. muslins made from it actually fit. comparing it against the drawer of failed attempts gives insight into why those didn't work out. happy days.

now if i wanna do something like a gathered neckline, is it better to gather the fabric before cutting or to work out how to incorporate that into the pattern first and then layout/cut like normal?

>> No.10249685

I'm mad curious about bobbin lace, do you have any suggestions for tools and such? I'm a knit/crochet/spinnerfag if it helps

>> No.10249697

look up spread and slash technique

>> No.10250176

cheers, will do

>> No.10253081

I use French curves and ship hull curves.

>> No.10253091

it can help. just don't get one of those atrocious adjustable size ones. they are total crap

>> No.10253449

Where can I purchase embroidery bezel settings and bezel tags? I've tried using numerous search terms on Aliexpress and Google. But none of the settings include the bezel tag to mount the embroidery. I have found some on Etsy that are terribly expensive (and boring looking).

I'd really like to create some jewellery similar to My Inspiration and Moss Marchen.

>> No.10253603

mmm space blankets

>> No.10253663

try "bezel findings"

thanks for the heads up on the adjustables. that actually brings up another point that's been giving me pause: being able to make a garment that fits the dressform well doesn't mean it'll fit me well since our measurements and proportions aren't gonna be identical, right?

>> No.10253665

this might help too

>> No.10253680

Correct, but you can usually pad your dressform to your size if you don't have significant fit issues. I have an adjustable one because the selection here in my size is somewhat limited, and I ended up padding the bust to reflect my chest shape better because my boobs sit wider than the dressform even with a bra on.

>> No.10253691

what if it's a matter of needing to take away rather than add? dressform having bigger tiddies than i've got is well within the realm of probability. and then there's frame stuff like narrower/broader shoulders, shorter/longer torso etc
>tfw just want to be able to make cute dresses to flounce around the house in and run errands and stuff

>> No.10253749

Get a smaller form and then pad. You could also open the covering, shave down the base underneath and close it back up but that's a lot of work.

>> No.10253769
File: 94 KB, 196x260, hilda sleeve.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

Hello guys.
I want to cosplay Hilda from Fire Emblem Three Houses but I'm not very good at sewing without a tutorial. Does anyone have any tutorials to make sleeves like this?

>> No.10253777

You can make one identical to your body using the duct tape method, but that looks like a lot of work. Personally I’ve given up on trying to find a dress form that matches me. I bought the smallest adult dress form I could find and it still turned out to be too large. I use it for display but not everything fits onto it.

>> No.10253844

Thanks, anon. I appreciate the help! I did find the nunndesigns website. I didn't realise they had EU retailers though. I was hoping to find some more ornate bezels. But they're definitely an option.

Anon, what did you use to mount your embroidery? I was thinking that cabochons may work as an alternative.

>> No.10254040

I had the same issue as you - I couldn't find any pendants trays I liked enough, and the ones I did find were really expensive. I found a handful on Etsy that were like $5-10 but the shipping to Canada was over $12 CAD per piece, so totally out of the question.

That piece there was actually mounted on cardboard, with a bit of quilt batting to give it that pillowy shape. Cardboard or foam board is really all I had on hand that I could cut with household tools, but I hate it because it's so hard to cut a circle into even with a knife, without it being all choppy. I just put up with it for personal use but going forward I'd like these things to be more sturdy and more neat.
I tried search ebay and taobao and just the internet in general, but I couldn't mind any option that was decently cheap. The closest I came up with was to purchase cabochon pendant trays, and either

>get a clear glass cabochon and mount the embroidery on it and glue into tray or
>get a precut piece of wood or plastic insert and wrap the embroidery around that and glue into tray

I was looking at 8seasons because they have a huge variety of pendant trays, in various colours, designs, and sizes. Though if you have to buy glass cabochons or wood tags you are limited to certain sizes. It'd be nice if I could just order a bunch of precut wood, metal, or plastic tags somewhere, idk where that would be though. Another anon also suggested getting an aluminum sheet and cutting the tags with tin snips but again idk how nice and even I could get those pieces to look with the method.

>> No.10254051
File: 122 KB, 726x1024, Smocking and Shirring.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

i can't really tell what i'm looking at in your image anon, but here's a general image that might help you move towards the right place for finding the pattern you need.

>> No.10254090

you can have a custom sized form made but its a bit pricey, but IMO worth it if you have out of the ordinary measurements just for the ease of making something you know is going to fit true without any alterations to the garment or the pattern or the form.

>> No.10254137

If you’re willing to put in some time, you can make a fabric dress form using a custom generated pattern from Bootstrap Fashion. I’ve seen varying results from it though.

Continuing on the dress form convo, does anyone have recs for petite dress forms? I want to buy one that’s smaller than me bust / hip-wise so i can pad out, but normal torso length. My waist is 22.5 inches which i haven’t been able to find without being short torsoed or having a huge ribcage. Trying to weigh some options before I sink time and materials into sewing a bootstrap fashion one.

>> No.10254292
File: 189 KB, 760x606, vintage-design-pendant-setting-30x40mm-setting.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

yeah i think i see what you mean there. nunn seems to be using the word "ornate" as a descriptor in the same way some 100% polyester fabric listings use the word "silk". anyhow, digging around a bit more turned up a few other sites for you (>>10254040 as well!) to check out. more search terms to try too.

vintagejewelrysupplies.com looks somewhat promising. prices seem reasonable (mind the varying quantities), international shipping cost isn't horrendous, fairly large selection, and quality appears decent. some lovely pieces on the Settings > Oxidized Brass pages. Antique Button Mounts too, though i'm not sure how useful those would be to you. in any case, top find from this site is Fittings > Bails because (at least i think) it gives you your missing search term.

picrelated is similar but their selection is slightly smaller and guarantee you'll get jewed slightly harder on the shipping. convenient links to Pendant Trays and Jewelry Bails tucked away on the bottom left. they've a handful of really pretty pieces here.

alchemyandice.com is also similar but also has a smaller selection and the site is more of a dick to navigate. uk based though so shipping ought to be a bit faster & less expensive.

this last one is a bit different insofar as you'll probably need to start by emailing them but skim the first page or two and read their 'about us' thing. shipping items this size & weight internationally is a trivial matter and small family-run companies with 30yrs under their belt tend to be fuggen great to deal with. might be worth the five minutes to fire off an email.

>> No.10254393

It looks like glass cabochons are the most popular mounting method. I was reading through a couple of Reddit posts and that's what people recommended because the bezel kits are so expensive.

The only other method I can think of is laser cut aluminum or wooden tags. But I imagine that would be quite expensive.

Thanks for the links, anon! I've ordered a couple of cheap bezel trays from Aliexpress. Just to test out mounting. But the ones you linked are a lot nicer than the ones I found.

The pendant bails are especially helpful!

>> No.10254921

If I don't have a ton of experience dyeing (I've dyed synthetic wigs and some fabric for class projects), how hard is it going to be for me to evenly dye silk? I have some white silk habotai that I'd like to dye just slightllllllyy to something resembling an extremely pale skin color (think like the color of your scalp)

>> No.10255049

You might have to look for an older child one or possibly a fashion mannequin torso with a small waist that you can put a pinnable slipcover on

>> No.10255385

Yeah, unless they were precut, it would get expensive.

Glass seems to be the way to go, but it also makes me sad because I love how the pendants feel when they're stuffed like a little pillow, lol. And, they only make cabochons in so many sizes so that limits me to certain sizes of tray. I'm still thinking of alternate approaches for cases where I might want to buy a really nice and big pendant tray or something.

>> No.10257214

I have a moderate amount of sewing experience making garments and some experience with "tricky" materials such as pleather, but no experience sewing silk or slippery fabrics in general. I'd like to make a silk pillowcase since I've wanted one for a while and after calculating the costs and I've realized I could make my own for cheaper than I could purchase one. Is this a good starter project? Some people online are saying to use a teflon/plastic foot on silk but I feel like that would just slide all over the place... Wouldn't a walking foot be better?

>> No.10257402
File: 7 KB, 255x198, sm.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]


/k/ here,

Older sister bought a Bernina Artista 200 about 15 years ago; and bought the embroidery software, she made a nice side gig out of doing embroidering jobs.

It finally acted up and stopped working this year, while it was in for repairs, her husband bought a floor model unit to replace it. Then it turns out the Artista 200 only needed some servicing and is back in action.

Was telling her that there would be a market out there (not necessarily Seagulls) for a 15 year-old sewing computer and she could flip it.

Would I be correct?

>> No.10257442

Is chiffon ok for lolita blouses? I want to convert an oversized chiffon blouse into a lolita one but I am not sure if it's acceptable.

>> No.10257470

I am a guy who doesn't know anything about sewing but I think I'd like to create my own male Byleth cosplay (Fire Emblem: Three Houses). Where do I even get started with this kind of thing, I feel very out of my depth?

>> No.10257576

first: learn to sew. start with something basic like a pillowcase

>> No.10257583

I'd pin well with the fine pins, and use a regular foot.

>> No.10257631

Ask the Stupid Questions J-Fash thread

>> No.10257699

I know how to sew. I am just new to the fashion.

Since you took the time to reply, couldn't you have been a bit more helpful?

>> No.10257790

Clearly you know nothing about garment making if you don't know where to start. Make something simple like a pair of pajama pants first

>> No.10257919

How would I go about drafting the cone portion of a witch hat? I found a witch hat pattern online. But it's for US printer sized paper.

I've read a couple of tutorials online. But they all have different methods for drafting the cone. I'm genuinely confused.

>> No.10258033

My bad, >>10257576 wasn't about me. I'm just asking if chiffon is ok for lolita, sheesh.

>> No.10258130

maybe try looking at the materials listed on brand blouses. Don't expect people to spoon feed you

>> No.10258226

if it's transparent chiffon that shit needs to go in the trash

>> No.10258276

Thanks for the reply anon. I really don't wanna end up in the ita thread

>> No.10258287

Sounds like personal preference. Translucent chiffon is fine. There's been a lot of airy, translucent blouses around this summer. And opaque chiffon is always great.

Just don't pair chiffon with an old school dress, or use in a country coord, etc. Use your head. if the blouse looks great and the cut goes well with your jsk's neckline you shouldn't be ita.

>> No.10258334

Do you guys actually buy embroidary software or can i pirate them?
I want to design my own patches and stuff but im not willing to spend $1000+ on software for a hobby when im already spending 600 on a machine.

>> No.10258336

I’ve used SophieSew which is free but only for Windows. It looks like it hasn’t been updated since 1999 but it works fine.

>> No.10258344

Il give them a try, might as well for free. Thanks man.
I cant place my finger on it but none of the reviews i can find for machines or software seem genuine. They pretty much all read like shills. I never realized how proprietary everything is in the arts and crafts world i guess.

>> No.10258372

Have you dug through quilting/sewing/embroidery boards? That's usually where I like to read about various machines

>> No.10258428

does anyone have links to some patterns?
i want to sew some cute stuff for my dolls.

>> No.10259632

My singer 7258 just broke. Anything cheaper than 170 that’s the same or better?

>> No.10259752

Sell the newer one, it's gonna break down much quicker because shit isn't made to last anymore.

>> No.10259861
File: 181 KB, 839x889, fuseau-suisse-guatambu-x50 11.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I first tried without any specific tools (just using a dozen bits of 50 cm thread, pined into a cork thing (search "IKEA HEAT Trivet") covered by a contrasting old t-shirt), it managed to give the feel of how simple patterns are done and what I could expect. Threads get tangled together easily when I didn't try to separate (pin down between sets of 3-4 threads) them a little before putting the work aside.

I tried skipping the pining beside the top row : I managed some regularity within one session, but from one day to the other my tension was different enough that it shown. The work doesn't lay flat afterwards. Using pins (at least at the end of rows) make stuff really regular and less wriggly.

Got a 50 pack of the cheapest bobbin I could find (pic related for 40€+domestic shipping), it holds a surprising amount of thread. I used some basic synthetic machine sewing thread (the 4km for 8€ kind) for my first attempts, it works quite well when the bobbin are kept close enough to the work and "pillow" (still using that cork stuff) that they can't tangle. This thread being tiny, I bobbined 2 threads and 4 threads on the bobbins, it gives some satin-look to the less knotty parts. The bobbins are constantly turned, so even when I tried to twist the threads together, they'd not really hold a manual twist.

How many bobbins? I had fun making a ~2.5cm wide lace, out of 24 bobbins (4ply of that cheap stuff). It's basically https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nuwj4uGpwps (I recommend that dude's videos, I don't speak a word of italian and can follow along, he shows quite well what he does).

Bobbins that are kept short enough that they touch the pillow don't entangle. They are a pain to use when they aren't kept at similar length to the ones they cross.

>> No.10259862

>>10259861 cont.

Making the bobbins (no tools here) is a pain. Books and tutorials try to make you believe you have to start at the exact middle of the thread, but keeping track of it is a pain. Center-ish is good enough, or just bobbin same-length threads on 2 bobbins then tie the ends.

I upgraded the size of the supporting pillow out of moving supplies (1cm thick * somewhat bigger than A4) : thick cardboard, a couple foam sheets (see pic), a thin-weaved piece of cloth and the same contrasting tshirt. It's nicer to use.

I tried a thicker thread. It's too springy and doesn't want to stay on the bobbins. The cheap stuff didn't ever leave the bobbins' grooves.

>> No.10259865
File: 24 KB, 401x260, Perforated-paper.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google] [report]

I tried replicating a couple linear patterns without a printer to spit out the cardboard and I got no idea how wide the lace would be if tightened and how wide I would like it. Using perforated paper as the background, after a couple rows, it makes really easy straight lines. The less neat sides tend to grip the thread, so I had to shave it.

Note: that's what I did in a couple weeks of holidays trying that stuff, I don't know what I'm doing.

>> No.10260002


Newer one was nine grand (sticckers at $15K)

Trying to figure out if she can flip her old one for a grand

>> No.10262989

lot of work indeed & i can't see it going well. in fact it'd be a different starting point for arriving at the exact same roadblock i'm currently struggling with. hmm. welp i guess fingers crossed i luck out and find one that needs no resizing because paying money to be frustrated in 3 dimensions instead of 2 is sure as shit not on the table. ... wow that decision just got a whole lot simpler. my gratitude anon.

duct tape method piqued my interest a while back. heavily modified but my first go actually did result in a completed dressform. if my entire torso had severe edema that thing would've worked a treat. 2nd go involved getting bantzed while shivering on a tarp in the garage, included numerous sudden shouts of "fucking yeso de paris!" delivered crisply in the Queen's English, and culminated in co-op enthusiastic ragequitting. the method as it's currently presented isn't tutorially worthwhile imo; materials leave too much to be desired. what's offered is inspiration and a great starting point: it reveals a very clever technique that can be built upon and refined. i suspect i'll be trying the DIY route again soon. this thread has got all sorts of new ideas churning. if round 3 goes well i'll outline the process and report back.

good to know.
>fit true without any alterations to the garment or the pattern or the form
that'd be ideal! what's kicking my ass rn is i decide i'll try to into bodice and suddenly i can't get the hang of exactly where/how/what needs altered to achieve proper fit. seems for my usual approach to work i'd need to be able to walk around myself. wbu? did you get a bespoke dressform made?
>out of the ordinary measurements
no clue. what do i compare against to find out? dressforms? patterns? RTW?

>willing to put in some time
happily, yes - as long as it gets me somewhere!
interesting. giving me lots to think about, glad you posted that.

the input is such a help, thank you guys so much

>> No.10263010

>wide seam allowances
>use freezer paper (or many many fabric weights) to minimise shifting
>rotary cutter is best cutter
>pin then hand baste then sew
>>if not a fan of pinning: wonderclips
>>if not a fan of basting: wondertape
>>if you pin/baste, do so only in the seam allowance & parallel to the selvedge (holes won't always disappear and are prone to snags/runs besides)
>small sharp needle (like size 10/70 max and Sharp, Microtex, or Denim/Jeans rather than Universal)
>fine silk thread (silk > cotton > poly)
>standard presser foot
>straight stitch/single hole throat plate if you've got one
>~2mm stitch length
>french or flat felled seams
>pull fabric taut with both hands (i.e. one at infeed, other at the outfeed) while sewing
>pull thread tails taut behind when starting a seam to keep the fabric from getting eaten
>>if machine is eating it anyway: don't backstitch
>>still eating it: center a scrap of tissue paper under the needle, overlay the edge of your fabric just in front of the needle, lower presser foot, sew seam, tear the tissue paper away at the stitchline afterwards
>dry iron, use a press cloth, only ever press from the wrong side
test stuff on bits of scrap first. lower the top tension a smidge if the seam is puckering. unpick stitches as delicately as possible if you have to ctrl-z anything.

cursory glance says yes. $200-$900 or so. search that model on eGay and filter the results to show sold listings, then completed listings, then compare what you see. re: shipping, make sure there's at least 2.5" of bullshit between the cardboard and anything important and pack the box such that nothing shifts inside no matter how hard you shake it once it's taped up

confirmed for successfully made a tactical wizard hat just a few months ago thanks to this vid:
it explains the key parts well, demonstrates clearly, and presentation is straightforward. also the girl is a cute.

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