/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

i feel pretty dumb asking this, but how do seam allowances on patterns work? Do i eyeball them and draw them on with my chalk from the pattern?

>>8101467
Depending on the pattern, I think some patterns (read: simplicity, etc) mention that they have seam allowances built into the pattern you cut out; others (read: burda) mention that they /don't/ account for seam allowances. My sewing machine, for example, has ruler markings on the plate where the sewing actually happens so I can attempt to keep a solid 5/8" allowance, but otherwise...you might want/need to mark your machine yourself if it's not there, or attempt to eyeball it if you're that brave.

>>8101467
No, you use the marking on your sewing machine. Look at the base by the needle and there are different measurements, where you match up your fabric creates the seam depth. So you just sew on the suggested allowance.

>>8101232
Brother CS6000i comes with a very detailed instruction guide that holds your hand through every single stitch and function it has. Go read that.

Question: Does anyone know what the rough cost is for fixing a sewing machine? I have the same sewing machine as OP has before and the top where the needle is inserted isn't in the correct position I believe. The needle keeps hitting the plate and jamming. Any help would be appreciated

>>8101232
>>8101571
The manual is available online, too, as a downloadable pdf.

http://www.cs6000isewingmachine.com/brother-cs6000i-online-user-manual/

You're welcome.

>>8101232
ughhhhh I am not a fan of Burda patterns. I much more prefer I've used almost every type of pattern including Vouge and I just really dont like Burda...

>>8101614
depends on the place that you take it. They're almost always Mom and Pop places. It also depends on what the problem is. I've taken 2 antique machines for service and fixing and a newer plastic machine that wouldn't sew and they cost me $100 per machine.

>>8101614
How did you ruin the machine to start with?

>>8101614
My dad repairs sewing machines for a living and the price depends on the problem and amount of work that goes into it. Yours sound like a small mechanical one which can be fixed with some small adjustments, so it would depend on the place you take your machine to. I'd eyeball it at $60.

Once the problem's in the electronic, be prepared to shell out more money.

I had a similar problem with my Pfaff once and my dad fixed it really fast for me. Though I can't remember what exactly the problem was at the moment, sorry.

Or.. .do you have the same problem when you try to sew without your thread in the needle? If not, it could be a problem with your thread tension and that is easily fixed with some small adjustments you can do yourself.

What would you guys say is the best like royals royce of vintage sewing machine? I don't really like the ones with the cogs that you use to change the stitch pattern, cause they're plastic and it seems like they'll eventually break? I currently have a Singer 237 that I really like, and I imagine down the line I'll probly want another..

>>8101632
It actually kinda came like that but I always assumed I was doing something wrong. I was an idiot and bought it new off of an Amazon seller two+ years ago.

>>8101668
The machine hits the plate even without a thread. I'm going to take it apart some time this week and see what needs to be cleaned but I wanted to see what was more likely wrong.

>>8101614
You can fix this yourself! I have an older singer that the timing gear was always breaking on. which is what's broken on your machine if the needle is going down and hitting metal instead of smoothly going up and down. This fix does not require any parts, just an Allen wrench and a screwdriver. Basically what happened was that you threw the bobbin and the top thread out of whack probably by catching some material in the mechanism. Here's the video I used to learn to fix it. http://youtu.be/fzhR6PNlI4E
Sewing machines are pretty simple so don't be afraid to pop the hood and have a look around. If you're gentle with the machine you won't break it. I think the guy in the video mentions the cost would have been about $90.

anyone got a link to a guide for retards on how to maek sewing machine werk?

>>8101681
There are several possibilities. Maybe the previous owner didn't clean it, to the point that balls of dust and lint are actually moving the plate to the side, or the needle to the side. The needle's support can actually move sideways (hence the zigzag and other such stitches).

Another possibility is that the needle is bend. Make sure you have a set of clean new needles. There may already be some spare Organ needles in the pouch set in the lower compartment.

Can anyone recommend a pattern I can use to create this bodice? Also how difficult is it to create a pattern from a dress I already own? I've read a couple tutorials that recommend using pins pushed through onto a piece of paper and then trace?

Anyone watching the Great British Sewing Bee? Ep 1 just started! It's a great watch for sewing noobs, use the Hola plugin for Chrome to watch it!

Posting in this thread too, anyone know a good beginner sewing machine? Budget is open-ended, I'll be using it for mostly cosplay.

In addition, any resources for total beginners on sewing machines/patters/etc?

>>8101518
>>8101515
this makes so much sense
and yeah it is, i'm using simplicity patterns on a Janome so its marked

>>8102727

How about this one from otome no sewing? It doesn't have the centre part but it comes close.

>>8102821

Construction of the bodice.

Loliable mass produced patterns? Simplicity mccalls etc.

I make this pattern:

http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m6646-products-29588.php?page_id=109

All the time. If you look past the shitty quincenera dress there's a simple sweet heart neck line with straps perfect for jsks

Looking for something new

>>8102737
Honestly the Brother machine pictured in OP is fantastic. It's about $140 on Amazon and it is a great machine for the price. It's my third sewing machine and by far my favorite.

>>8102826
Er.. how do I even go about this, do I just eyeball the shape? Buy a french curve and a triangle and go at it?

Are sergers worth it? There have been some sales popping up recently which made me remember I've been considering buying one for a while. I've gone way overbudget for this month so I'm probably not going to buy one yet, but sometimes I find myself seriously considering dropping the money for one. Am I overestimating their usefulness? Can I actually get by for the rest of my life with just my sewing machine?

>>8102977
Honestly it depends on what you want to use them for. If you want a really quick and easy way to finish edges or to do fancier edging stitches, they are handy and worth investing in.

Just make sure what you're seeing on sale is WORTH the money. Some brands are utter shit.

I guess I can help many starting anons with a quick guide to make simple jsk patterns starting all from the same one, are you anons interested?

>>8101232
I made one pattern from Burda style once and the size of the finished item was retardedly off. Yes the pattern said seam allowances were included.
Yes I took sizes carefully.
No i'm not new, I have been sewing with other commercial patterns.
>>8101614
It ranges from $20 locally to $80 in the city. It can cost more to have a crappy machine serviced than it would be to buy a new shitty one. If it's a cheap machine either try to fix it yourself or look into buying something decent.
>>8101675
The Singer 201 is considered by many to be the best straight stitch machine ever made. It's good, but I prefer the slightly newer Bernina 530 record.
>>8102977
Sergers are indispensable for knits and stretch fabric, but I'm not crazy about them for quality woven garment construction. Think about a sewing machine like a stove/oven and like a serger like a microwave. Both have their uses.

>>8102977
>>8102983
>>8103025

On this same note, does anyone have any serger recommendations. I know it isn't a lot for one but my budget is at max $350.

>>8101232
I've used Burda dress patterns for their bodices in lolita/otome stuff.

As a general rule, I always add extra seam allowance and just take it in as necessary, but I get that a lot of people don't have dress forms and can't do that.

You can always just google a specific pattern if you're unsure of the instructions, though.

>>8103025
So weirdly, burdas pattern sizes are not the same as mccalls and simplicites pattern sizes. They have their own size chart...which is printed on the pattern paper inside the envelope. One of the reasons I don't like them...

>>8103036
The Brother 1034D or 3034D are pretty good in that price range.

>>8103025
The only burda pattern I have used and liked was the JJ blouse.

>>8103036
Not sure about price range since I bought someone's trade-in at a local sew shop, but I use White brand sewing machines and sergers and have never had any issues.

Don't hesitate to check in with places near you. I paid $200 for mine, nothing wrong with it but the shop tuned it up before selling to me. The former owner just wanted an 8-thread serger instead of the 4-thread one.

>>8103025
Well, shit. At least I only burned $6 on a pattern that...I probably won't attempt, then? Yeesh. Guess it's back to Joanns to dig through the McCalls/Simplicity. Any suggestions on looking for a men's blazer pattern - as in, is there any real difference between McCall/Simplicity patterns, or is it just a matter of which one you find first?

Thanks for the advice on Burda before I got too far, guys!

My trusty brother machine has been "borrowed" by someone and I won't be getting it back anytime soon. I have access to a Jerome HF2022 (pic related). The bobbin stoppy-foot thing(yellow box) came off and I have no idea how to reattach it. Nor how to wind a new bottom bobbin. There's no manual, extra bobbins or needles, so I am flying blind here. Any one know anything about these machines, or maybe where to find the manual online (preferably for free, since I don't want to shell out $15+ for a machine I probably won't use longer than this weekend)?

>>8104073
Place the bobbin on the metal piece next to the thing, move it to the right, hit the pedal and just watch the bobbin 'til it's full.

Does anyone know of a good place to buy lace online?

>>8104073
The small metal pin next to the highlighted white thing should be able to 'click' towards and away from the white thing. That's where the bobbin goes. Start with it clicked 'away'.

Wind your thread through the bottom of the bobbin and place it on the metal pin. Click it 'towards' the white thing.

Finally, pull the manual wheel on the Right hand side out. This'll disengage the needle.

You should now be able to use the pedal to wind your bobbin.

>>8103126
If you still have the pattern and it's something you want. I'd strongly suggest measuring the combined width of the pieces, subtract all the seam allowances and see if it's close to your size. If it's close than I'd make a muslin out of an old sheet (also available for cheap at goodwill or salvation army)
I mean there is a chance it can be made to fit, but just don't assume that the fit is good without making a mockup first.

General sewing question.
I've been using an old straight stitch sewing machine more in general. I really like the feel of it, but without zigzag I can't do regular Bartacks.
Is there a good straight stitch substitute for a bartack?

>>8104363
bartacks are zigzag? you could just make it by hand.

>>8104363

>>8104374
I was literally just posting that lol it told me duplicate file and I was confused for a moment.

>>8104372
>>8104374
My hand stitching is atrocious... I was thinking of making a little x-box or something

>>8104396
ok then do? That's not a bartack though, just so you know.

I want to make a summer dress, but the pattern I have includes a lining. I've only ever used that shiny synthetic lining for jackets, but google says to use "Batiste". Is this right?
Also, the recommended fabrics for the pattern are Sateen, Lightweight Linen, Lightweight Crepe, Eyelet Fabric. So I should basically be able to use any woven non-stretch fabric, right?

>>8104520
use ambiance/bemberg rayon lining. it's light and is cool to the touch.

>>8104403
It's not a bartack, but would it be an ok substitute?

Does this kind of straight across neckline have a name? I'm trying to find a pattern that will make a dress similar to this. If anyone has seen one that's currently in print or available online, please post it!

>>8105091
Butterick's B6094

>>8105113
That's what I found too, but I don't like the opening in the back. So far my top pick is New Look 6223 in style C, but I'm not 100% sold on all the little pleats in the front.

>>8105137
Are you talking about the pleats on the skirt? Just use the C bodice and attach your own skirt that you prefer.

>>8105091
I'm pretty sure that neckline is called a boat neckline.

>>8105141
Yeah, I'll probably end up doing that. Just once I'd like a pattern that I could make with no modifications. I bet it's so quick and easy.

>>8105153
>pattern with no modifications

look, unless you're the fit model for the company, there will always be some modification needed. because you are not a mannequin.

>>8105153
If you want a pattern with no modification prepare for 1. a garment that isn't going to fit you perfectly and 2. a garment that isn't exactly the way you'd like it.
In which case, why are you even bothering to make your own clothes when you can get those two things in something store bought?

>>8105160
>>8105208
Oh no, I fully expect to size it. I just mean that we alter patterns so heavily to be accurate for cosplay, it would have been nice to find something that was already visually what I need.
I know my mother always follows the pattern exactly, and it looks so easy. Cut, sew, done. I'm just a bit jealous.

Sorry for such a dumb question, but what would be the best closure option for this dress?
I'm thinking a gathered circle skirt and then the bodice for the dress making itself, and was thinking either a zipper in the back or the seam of the bodice? I've never sewn a zipper before and am overall pretty new to sewing.
I want it to be able to fit over either my hips or shoulders, both of which are much wider than my waist.
Sorry for any spelling or grammar errors, I'm dead tired. Thanks!

>>8106476
make is a knit dress. boom.
or side seam invisible zip,

>>8106476
>>8106480
Forgot to mention I already have the frabic, it unfortunately is a very light/thin flannel because it was the only right color/weight.

>>8106495
Side seam invisible zip then

Bought a gathering foot and no matter what I google I can not figure out how to use it for the life of me. Do I just return it at this point? Is it the foot's problem or just me?

>>8106839
are you sure you didn't buy a ruffler?
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/blog/gathering-foot-vs-ruffler-foot.aspx

I made a kigu for my friend, and he said everything fits great except it's a little tight under the arms. Could I just as in two panels of fabric under the arms to help this? Like rip part of the Sean and as in a longish triangular panel to give him dinner more room?

>>8107319
Wow, phone. I meant to ask if adding two triangular panels under each sleeve would fix a kigu being at little tight in the chest.

>>8107140
>http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/blog/gathering-foot-vs-ruffler-foot.aspx
It is absolutely not a ruffle foot. Which is all the more why I'm pissed as fuck I can't figure out how to use it. It should be way simpler than this.

>>8107862
This may seem obvious, but have you tried searching on youtube for that foot, or the brand, or just gathering foot?

>>8107865
>>8107862
something like this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Owjwse7qiz0

>>8107862
oh my god NOW it decides to work after i already bullshitted my petti. think it was a tension problem... eugh

Hey anons, I have a project I'd like to post a few photos of. It was inspired by an Atelier Pierrot piece, though it's not an exact design replica. I've never done the bustling in the back before, so did I do an ok job? Feel free to nitpick it in general as well, idk why I'm feeling so worried about how this project in particular turned out, but I'd like to know if I either fucked it up or did ok lol My biggest worry is the fact that the ruffles on the front make the dress really, really heavy. Did I do something wrong? It did the same thing on the last dress of this style that I made, so is it just supposed to be that heavy?
Also, sorry for the awkward laid out pictures, my mannequin was not being cooperative.

>>8108969
back with the bustle undone

>>8108971
back bustled

>>8108973
closeups of the bodice.

>>8108969
did you put it on you body with a petti coat and see how it looked?
The ruffles = extra weight so so course it's gonna be heavy.

>>8108994
No, I haven't because it wasn't made for me. It held up fine with a low-quality petti underneath it before my mannquin broke, though.

Hey guys I was wondering what type of sewing machine you have and whether or not you love it? I mean like something that is an extension of your body and can read your thoughts. Should I get
an all metal vintage model or should I get something new and which?

Anyone have tips for sewing applique on stretch fabric? Both fabrics are stretchy because the costume is a body suit. Do I cut it out smaller because it's going to stretch? I don't have a dress form to play with.

>>8109853
I have a mid range modern Elna, a vintage Singer and have used my sister's top of the range computerised machine and nothing beat this little old machine I got for $5 at a second hand store. I wish I never gave it away, that thing would go all weekend. It was a mint green one from the 1960s and it was rad as fuck. The Elna is a close second. My sister's one uses much more cotton for some reason than the others.

>>8110820
4chan won't let me post the link, but google "crash culture stretch applique" and you'll get a decent tutorial

>>8102915
Not the anon that posted but I think there are patterns if you buy the book, but it looks like it'd be simple enough to figure out if you have decent sewing knowledge.

I've almost finished sewing my first bolero and it's pretty cute! I ran out of lace, so can't finish until I buy more tomorrow but it feels really good to have just sat down and sewn an entire garment in one go.

What's a good sewing machine for a beginner? I have some skill, but havent done anything beyond making simple garments with patterns.

I like the machine in OP, but does anyone else have some other recommendations?

>>8109853
I have a Husquvarna Viking Friesia, and it's probably the best machine I've ever had, if not a bit pricey. It does basic embroidery, button holes, and has very few functional problems. My only real issue with it is that you have to use Husquvarna bobbins or they won't work properly. Third party ones always seem to jam up.

Metal vintage are really nice, but they're pretty useless if you want to do anything above basic stitching. My Nana had an industrial model from when the shop she worked in closed, and it was great for finishing garments and sewing through denim and thick fabrics like that, but it's junk for stretch fabrics.

'Course, that thing was probably from the '40s or '50s, it was still pedal powered, so maybe newer vintage machines are more versatile?

>sewing first kigu as well as first full garment
>keep sewing shit on inside out by accident
>have to rip seams out of fleece over and over
>why.jpg

I'm an idiot.

>total sewing newbie
>oh anon you're sewing now? Forget that cheapo garage sale machine, have this!
>mom gives me my tailor grandmother's old 1964 singer featherweight
>beautiful condition
>can't even thread it properly

I am not worthy... Does anyone have any advice for me? All I've ever sewn with is a cheapo machine I found for 50$, is this going to need extra care or anything?

>>8111115
Not really, that's kind of the nice thing about older machines, you may want to get the motor freshened up at a sewing repair shop if it hasn't been used for a while, but other than that keeping it oiled will get you all the mileage out of it. Older machines are much more simple and sturdy so there's less to break down. Look up some manuals on how to thread it and which needle it takes as putting one in improperly can potentially do a lot of damage. What kind of attachments did you get with it? You may want to invest in a zig zag foot as I don't believe the featherweights have that feature?

I have a Singer 237 that I really love, it has such a fantastic stitch, got it for like $30 and I'm pretty sure it was never used, the interior was immaculate with very little lint underneath. Also bought some essential sewing feet for making dresses like a ruffler, hem roller, blind stitch attachment, I'm super excited.

>>8102737
>>8101232
>>8110972
>beginner
We need to make a document that has guidlines for buying your first sewing machine and using patterns for cosplay and lolita. Just some general references so we don't have to keep answering these same damn questions. The other thread repetitively had people asking for beginner machines and beginner patterns, it's as bad as people asking on Rufflechat where to buy petticoats or whether my-lolita-dress is trustworthy.

So after about 2 years of sewing my own cosplay and thinking I've been getting better, I realized I really haven't. What are some simple things I can do that will make my craftsman ship better? I need to start lining my stuff, how do I do that? I never have any clue on what kind of fabric to use for anything. I guess I just want to start sucking less in general... I know this is a broad question but it's kind of frustrating.

>>8114576
As far as lining goes, just try a couple simple projects that have linings and follow them by the book. choose projects that would be something you would be okay with wearing every day. I suggest something like a vest or a dress, then moving on to a coat. You basically have to get a feel for how you would flip a lining before you can add them to patterns you draft yourself. Some are very simple, others require a little more skill. It's not that they're more difficult, they just aren't something you can flip and be done, such as say, the straps and armhole on a sleeveless dress.

Also, try looking up sewing hacks, like on pinterest or just googling it. lots of sewing blogs share their little "make things easier" tricks, like doing two or three rows of stitching when gathering, ripping instead of cutting to ensure straight edges, using patterns weights and clips instead of pinning patterns and pieces in order to avoid skewing the fabric shape, etc etc.

As far as choosing the right fabric, well....I'll explain within a couple examples.
Let's take something simple, like Ponyo. She just has a dress and bloomers. Her outfit is plain and casual, so using Kona cotton for both pieces would be fine. However, when I made the bloomers, I did two layers of cotton with a stiff tulle sandwiched inbetween. The first pair I made was just one layer of cotton, and instead of being light and puffy like Ponyo's, they were saggy and weird. The tulle made them super puffy, just like hers!

But....

>>8114576

1. Post your cosplay (not here. Try the self-post thread). Ask for feedback on things you can fix. Apply to your next cosplay.

2. Remake an old cosplay, improve it. If you don't have anything you plan to wear again, pick a garment that looks like you can incorporate into your daily wardrobe and remake that for your own use. You should be able to see where you've obviously improved by doing this, if you don't, work on finding out what about that garment you should be doing differently to make it better, and do that.

3. Pick up an actual book and try out the techniques. Choose a book with good reviews that is technique-heavy. Trust me, there's a lot of dressmaking stuff in books that just aren't on the internet. Nobody has the time and energy to turn sewing techniques into free tutorials for nothing.

4. Choose your next costume with a higher level of difficulty so that you're forced to learn new techniques.

Most of it revolves around finding out why you suck and then fixing it. You can't just "become better" by "more effort" if that effort doesn't solve problems with your existing techniques.

I need a little help. A dress I bought has these two darts that end in the exact right place to make it look like I'm high beaming everyone in the room.

How do I make the dart-nipple go away? Open up the dart and resew it smaller?

>>8114611
(Also, I should apologize beforehand because most of the cosplay examples I'm using are my own, and most aren't anime per say.)
Let's use pic related that I'm working on, which isn't too complex, but is a step up.
Sophie is a fashionable character, and the dress she's wearing has a lot of life, body, and movement, but she's also plus size, so you'll be using a lot of fabric. Cotton isn't going to cut it, it will sag and look sad and lifeless. You need something light but stiff, I'm considering organza or organdy and bemberg lining. For the roses on her shoulders, rather than using silk roses from the craft stores, which looks dumb, I'll be making roses from chiffon. Using these fabrics, the dress will look less like a cheapass cosplay and more like something a fashionable woman like Sophie would actually wear.

Moving up...

>>8114618
http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/06/french-darts-cautionary-tale.html

>>8114625
Don't be afraid to cheat a little bit and try out a character who has already been created in live action, for example I'm working on Aayla Secura, so I can reference the film for fabric choices. She's got some denim going on, I'll probably use a stretch denim, as well as leather (or pleather). My judgement call comes in regards to her top. I could use a pleather of some sort, but it would be awful for a sleeve, movement would be very limited. So instead I can do what others do and use a snakeskin stretch fabric, or buy solid colored stretch fabric and screen print the skin-like pattern onto it in a darker brown. I'll probably be doing the latter for accuracy.
While I've never cosplayed them, I always loved getting up close and personal with the Final Fantasy cardboard standups and my local game store, figuring out the fabric textures and which would be best to use. I was utterly enchanted.
What character did you have in mind? I could probably make a few suggestions.

>>8114576
>>8114612
>4. Choose your next costume with a higher level of difficulty so that you're forced to learn new techniques.
i cannot emphasize how much this can help you. it's how i learned to applique, make corsets, and what got me into historical patterns. don't pick too many things to level up on at once in 1 costume....do one thing at a time. you mentioned lining garments, so maybe pick a costume that has lots of pieces that would need to be lined.

Does anyone have a link to a tapered/fitted waist tutorial? I'm making a skirt and the waist is sitting away from my torso despite being a proper fit.

>>8114641
At the moment I'm working on Holo from spice and wolf. The tunic seemed very simple that I made a pattern from a shirt I already have. It's the collar of the tunic that is really stumping me.
>Over think every thing to the point that I'm afraid to try anything.
I have asked here and some other places about it, everyone suggested lining it so that there aren't any raw edges around it, then just putting the purple edges down on the front. Are there any online tutorials that I could use to figure that out? I've seen stuff for lining jackets but nothing for just a one piece shirt. I'm trying to get this done in time for Tokyo Anime.

>>8114630

>it's as simple as steaming them flat

Wow. Thank you so much, anon!

>>8114722
Did you try making it an applique or using bias tape as people have suggested to you?

>>8114722
Ok, this is actually something you can do in a nice cotton, honestly. You could choose any number of other non-drapey non-stretchy fabrics if you really wanted to, but cotton will work just as well.
This is pretty simple to line, as well. Honestly I'm going to do my best to explain it to you but it's hard because for me, this just makes sense in my head, like it seems really obvious. You just cut the pattern pieces out of the lining exactly the same as you do the outer fabric of the dress, except for the sleeves. Sew the outer shell together and sew the lining together, then take the two separate pieces and place one inside the other, with the right sides of the seams together, like pic related, if you get what I'm saying. Basically, you'll have an inside out dress on the outside and an right side out dress on the inside. It doesn't matter which one you put where, so long as the right sides are together and the neckline, armholes,and hem are lined up. Pin the neckline together and sew along it. Then flip and press, so the lining is on the inside and you have a nice, clean neckline to work with. Then just attach the sleeves as normal and serge or zigzag/overlock stitch around the armhole to keep things neat. Don't line the sleeves, though. For the bottom hem and the sleeve hem, just make your own bias tape. Sandwich the lining and fabric of the bottom hem in the bias tape and ta-da!

>>8114778
I think this anon's problem is the neckline. I'm not sure how you would do the bias tape with the little crisscross piece, and anon doesn't seem to get how to line it in order to apply the applique.

>>8114778
I did try to use some bias tape I made myself on my practice run. Would that be okay to use if I made both sides even? I was going to flip them under at a slat so that they would form the X and the corners at the top of it without showing a raw edge.
>>8114790
Thank you this helps me a lot! I was thinking that you had to line the sleeves too...

>>8114797

Not the anon you answered, but it looks like a piece of cake with bias tape?

Begin attaching the bias tape at the criss cross, on the inside of the garment. Leave a generous tail to make the criss cross with later. Do the whole neckline, remember to mitre the tape when you get to the pointy corners.

Once you're back at the criss-cross (this where you'll normally join the tape, don't do that), press the entire thing out. You'll have to snip at least the dip in the V-neck so that you can press the fabric out. The whole bias tape will be pressed outwards, so all of the raw fabric and bias tape will be outside, not in. There's nothing left on the inside of the garment.

You're now left with two tails at the criss cross, with the raw edge folded under already. Neaten the ends of the tail by cutting it to the right length, fold under the raw edges and press, then sew down one tail, then sew the other tail down. Topstitch the rest of the bias binding, and done?

If your tunic is lined, treat both fabric as one, baste them together if you need to.

Tutorials:
For exactly that neckline? I don't have one.
This one shows what I'm talking about with ironing everything so that all of the bias binding is on the outside:
http://www.coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/facing-or-detail-bias-binding

>>8108969
I'm not a fan of the straps, and you need to be careful when using lace to hold the ribon, since it gets deformed and may even snap

>>8108969
I would have interfaced the bodice to help with any warping from the weight of the ruffles

Can someone recommend any really good sewing books? Mostly I'm looking for haute coutor techniques since I can't seem to find a lot of variety in those sort of tips online

So I found a high waisted skirt tutorial on pommandarine's blogspot [from October last year, 4chan won't let me link] and it seems super simple but looks like it turns out well. Normally when something seems simple yet nice it never turns out nice for me so I wanted so other sewers opinions before maybe trying it.

>>8115016
just make sure that you add seam allowance and that your sides are symmetrical.

>>8115001

>>8109853
I have vintage Singers, Berninas, A couple Class 15 clones, Husqvarnas. A new-ish Janome. I like all of them, but each is a little different and does some things better than others.
Past a certain point most higher end machines are good, but best is purely subjective. Having said that some brand new Berninas and Husqvarnas have bad reviews for problems they shouldn't be having.
TL/DR buy a machine you like.

>>8115016
Yeah nope...the hem and underbust won't sit nicely on that, it's like a 6 sided pyramid at the moment rather than a skirt. The hem needs to be curved according to the amount of flare, like a trapezoidal skirt rather than a series of triangles

This is probly ot but has anyone here had success dyeing a polyester brand dress? I have one that I didn't pay too much for and I like the cut just not the color. It says 100% polyester and I imagine that includes the thread, should I give it a shot?

>>8115993
you would need poly dye, a pot you will never use for food again and a stove.

>>8114950
She wanted adjustable straps, so that's why those are there. The lacing in the back is actually held with a braided trim, no lace. It's been one of the strongest and most attractive methods I've used so far, it's never deformed or broken or even showed signs of wear.

>>8114954
Pic related is the bodice on my grandmother's (like 1940's old) dress form. It seems to hold up okay on its own. Wouldn't interfacing make it a little too stiff for comfort? I've never had to interface an entire bodice before.

>>8116084

Different anon here. I think the other one suggested interfacing the bodice to help if the front ruffles were distorting the bodice. Obviously you don't need to bother if it isn't. Your photos had everything laid out flat while you said the ruffles were really heavy, so some anon probably assumed the ruffles may be pulling on the bodice and distorting it.

I don't think the rest of us can pass judgement without seeing it on a dress form; a major part where newbies tend to mess up is the shape of the skirt like not having enough poof, or stuff on the skirt sitting in different places once a proper petticoat is added. I get that your dressform broke and that not everyone has a decent camera, but it's hard for me to say for sure whether or not the dress is decent without seeing how it sits over a petticoat, based on limited info and small, grainy photos. I didn't even see that the shoulder straps were adjustable or that the lacing in the back is braided trim.

>>8107319
Yes. That's called adding an armpit gusset. Google it.

Hi sewing thread.
Have some otome no sewing stuff.

>>8116963
Not the person you're replying too, but any tips on how to add a gusset to a pants pattern at the crotch?

>>8119304
>LMGTFY
>pants gusset

Does anyone have block or tutorial for drafting bra patterns that they've tried and been happy with?

>>8119326
It's not to enlarge an existing pair of pants.

I used to be able to buy jeans with a gusset and really liked how they fit and lasted much longer.
I couldn't find them locally after I got the first few pair and decided to learn how to sew my own.
After learning to make regular gussetless jeans I tried to modify my pattern to include a gusset, but the fit has never been as good as store bought.

Butterick is having a sweet sale right now, everything is $3.19 o___o

>>8116084
Interfacing would only be necessary if the additional weight was warping the bodice, as >>8116143 noted. You would obviously be using something more like a lightweight stabiliser, not like super stiff collar interfacing.
Either way it looks like it sits fine so it doesn't appear to be necessary.

Does anyone have project suggestions for a beginner who has just begun sewing?
I jumped right into making my first cosplay after I started on my machine a couple days ago, and it's turning out alright, but I'd really like to get in some practice and improve before I start my next cosplay.
thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Does anyone read sewing blogs that they'd like to recommend? Looking for interesting and well written tutorials for things that aren't just sewing 101? (even though I like reading beginner stuff because sometimes I find stupid shit I didn't know somehow)

>>8126677
fashion-incubator.com

or alternatively google 'sewalong'

>>8126601
This question will always receive the same exact answer. Start with some easy stuff, pj pant, pillows, basic rectangle skirts. When you've got those down perfectly, try some lined skirts, vests, and a basic jacket.

You could also not be lazy and just google "sewing projects for beginners" and pick a pinterest board and go from there.

>>8126677
I don't read blogs, but I'm seeing Gertie everywhere these days, so her blog obviously must be doing something right.

bump

Just finished making pic related as my first proper item, I'm kinda stumped as to what to make next, any ideas as to what to make next for a beginner?

>>8132388
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=beginner+sewing+projects+for+guys

Just used a walking foot for the first time yesterday, and holy crap will I ever go back to using a normal presser foot? I'm going to use it for like every single project from now on, wow.

>>8122443
A regular sale would be $1 to $2 at joann per pattern.

>>8132388
As a guy that sews decently I first have to ask you what you want to wear/what do you want to learn to make?

I started off with a simple shirt pattern simular to the pic. It wasn't great, but I learned loads and it opened the door to more elaborate shirts, jeans, etc.

I got a brother cs 6000i for christmas, and I'm sewing with a jersey knit for the first time. Should I be using a walking foot? The manual says I only need it for quilting.

Any tips for sewing on zippers? I've watched videos and am still having a hell of a time.

>>8135905
zipper foot. some people use tape instead of pins to hold it on while sewing.....pinterest has a ton of links to zipper tips.

>>8135733
Knit fabrics don't need a walking foot.

Jersey can usually be sewn with a universal needle, but if you get skipped stitches try a ballpoint of the right size.

Walking feet are really only useful when matching plaids or stripes.

sew on scrap material first and gently stretch it as much as you'd expect to stretch a garment. If your stitches pop than gently stretch the fabric when sewing or use a stretch stitch if you've got it

>>8135905
What part are you having problems with?

>>8136051
Basting the zipper in, I've been fucking it up pretty hard, I'll try this tape technique out, thanks.

>>8136226
You could just hand pick the zipper in
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/5135/a-hand-picked-zipper-is-worth-the-effort/page/all

>>8135921
Yeeessss this totally worked, thanks anon!

So working on this dress, it's disassembled and now I'm moving on to reassembling. Any last design critiques? Sorry for the poor photo editing skills, but it gets the idea across.

Also recommendations on where to get lace that's not taobao (because cny)?
Comments and critiques are appreciated.

Bump

I found my Grandma's old Singer 301A. She said she stopped using it because the needle started acting up, but I think it might be worth tuning up and repairing? What do you more knowledgable anons think? Also if I do take it in to get repaired do I have to go to a special place because it's so old?

>>8137836
Definitely, I would say don't be afraid to open it up and have a look, lube it up and give it a good cleaning, the needle issue could actually be pretty minor so take a look first.

You might want to join the vintage sewing repair group on yahoo groups, there's lots of information there. Older sewing machines have much more simpler motors so it shouldn't be a problem to have it repaired, you can probly just take in motor itself.

>>8137905
Also make sure it's the right type of needle and that it's being put in properly. Google the manual, it'll tell you how, and it'll show you where to add oil and lubricant, there is a difference. Embrace vintage sewing machines, they're awesome.

>>8137905
>>8137940
Awesome! Thank you for the advice anon. I think it probably just needs to oiled because 1 it's been in the attic for like 20 years and 2 I don't think my Grandma ever had to get it repaired or tuned up so it's probably super over due.
The needle I'm using was the one I found in it, so maybe I need to replace that too.

How do ya'll attach a gathered skirt to a bodice the right way? Like, is there a way to seal the inside of the seam in the lining or something? I've just been sewing them together and zigzagging the inside, and it looks fine from the outside but I want the inside to look neater. Also, sometimes it gets kinda bulky when I've got like...two layers of fabric plus two layers of lining? Wat do?

>>8139089
Okay, okay. I'm terrible at explaining shit but I'll try my best, anon!

>Sew bodice and skirt together in the wrong way (back-to-back.) at least two inches BELOW the gathering thread. Do two rows here.
>Trim off the excess fabric, where the gathering thread is. Leave only 1.5-2 cm. This will keep the skirt gathered but get rid of that bulk around the waist.
>Flip skirt and bodice the right way around, front-to-front. Press the fabric down over the excess skirt fabric at the waist, and sew it down like a French seam, enclosing the excess fabric on the interior.

You'll need to add an extra couple of inches of length to the hem of the bodice and the waist of the skirt.
I don't actually know if that will make sense. S-sorry.

>>8137836
I have a 301, but mine is the monotone. The two tone like yours is more aesthetically pleasing IMO.
Warning PDF bomb:

http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-slant-shank-301-sewing-machine-manual.pdf

Try brushing the lint out and oiling it with sewing machine oil. It's about $5 canadian a bottle and even Walmart stocks it.
The 301 has some quarks about the way the hook retainer goes in, so if you need some handholding I'll be monitoring this thread.

I've been working on sewing machines for 8 years now. Would there be any value in making some jewtube videos on high level mechanical type stuff?

>>8140057
Absolutely. Well-lit close ups please?

I'm considering buying a new machine for the first time in years and am wondering, is it worth it to hunt down a machine with a straight stretch stitch (if these newfangled models don't all come with them anyway)? I do a lot of spandex/skin tight costumes and haven't fussed with a straight stretch stitch in the past, but I'm starting to do more Western comic book superhero type stuff with stretch applique designs, and I'm wondering if a straight stretch stitch will save me heaps of time.

Additionally, any rec for a good machine with such a stitch (or that handles stretch materials well in general) would be appreciated.

>>8140187
Or, alternatively, should I just go ahead and get myself a serger?

>>8140187
I've sewn some spandex on a regular sewing machine, but it tends to look bad no matter what I do. Even with the straight stretch stitch it really isn't equal to a serger. My sister uses zigzag and can get better results, but she too uses a serger for a lot of stuff.

If you're sewing a lot anyway a serger would probably be a good idea.

>>8140187
If you can why not try a friends serger/machine with straight stretch stitch and see which will work for you?
If you do end up buying either one. Take samples of the fabric you want to sew with you just to make sure the machine will give you the result you want.

>>8140057
A video on how to clean the motor would be fantastic, I've seen some already but they were kinda meh.

>>8140302
I usually use different zigzags and top it off with a straight stitch to finish, and that seems to work pretty well for me, but I'm sure a serger would be nicer. I supposed I was wondering if a straight stretch stitch would be more useful for appliques, like superhero emblems they usually have on their chests and whatnot, rather than trying to zigzag or heat and bond things like I have been doing. Thanks for your input, though!

>>8140313
That's a good idea, I hadn't thought about asking around to do a test run. Thanks!

Dressforms. Advice, anything. I'm torn between buying a 150$ dritz one and making a duct tape one. What do the seagulls use?

>Wandering through thrift shop.
>Check out their scrap fabrics.
>See a roll of nice cotton voile (Or something similar.) $7AUS for 2.5 metres. Figure it'd be a nice summer lining.
>Get home, unroll.
>There's a weird tag on it with cut/composition/quality/product numbers, all written in Swiss. Fancy logo on the back.
>Google it.
>'Christian Fischbacher luxury Swiss fabrics and textiles.'
>A piece of this particular voile of this size retails for 60euro, or $87AUS.

Well shit. Not a lining, then. If anyone has suggestions or knows of any nice summery JSK/OPs with plain designs, I'd love hear 'em!

>>8140561
I've done it, but it's not something I'd suggest for people that may not be particularly mechanically inclined.

>>8141025
I'd go the duck tape route myself, but only if you have a good friend to help.

>>8140590
Sewing machine dealers should be put through their paces before you drop a pile of cash there. You can often get machines for cheaper online, but a good dealer will make you happy to shop there.

>>8139966
Thanks anon! I won't be able to pick up oil (and lubricant??) until Friday at the earliest, so incase this thread it gone by then I just wanted to say thank you and if I have any question I'll post here (or the new sewing thread)!

>>8142332
A small lint brush can also come in handy. They look like a paint brush with plastic bristles.

Hey seagulls I'm trying to make a half-elasticated waistband on a full gathered rectangle skirt, and I've read the egl tutorial, and in it she chooses not to gather the part of the skirt in the back that's going to get the elastic. Reading comments it sounds like it's actually a good idea cause it looks funny if it's stretched out all the way. Would it be best then to just to gather the entire skirt first, baste the waistband on (inside seam), and then address the elastic section in the back, or is something weird going to happen?

>>8145462
If you gather the back of the skirt where the elastic would be first, how would it stretch? Also, the ungathered portion matches up with the portion of the waistband where the elastic will be, if you gather the waistband, you'll have a bunch of extra waistband?

>>8145546
I should add, if you don't want to make it look weird when you full stretch the elastic, you have two options.
1. Make the skirt so it fits you without stretching the elastic much or
2. Make the ungathered portion of the skirt about 1.5x wider than the ungathered waistband, and gather it lightly before attaching the rest of the band and elastic. Don't gather it as much as the rest of the skirt, though, because when you put the elastic in it will make it really bulky back there.

>>8145546
I should add, if you don't want to make it look weird when you fully stretch the elastic, you have two options.
1. Make the skirt so it fits you without stretching the elastic much or
2. Make the ungathered portion of the skirt about 1.5x wider than the ungathered waistband, and gather it lightly before attaching the rest of the band and elastic. Don't gather it as much as the rest of the skirt, though, because when you put the elastic in it will make it really bulky back there.
You can do a combination of both as well.

Anybody use a vintage dial-a-stitch Pfaff? I got one for $30 that needed work. I got it fixed up, but I don't have a clue how to use the embroidery unit.