/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

>>7795194
>How did you learn to sew?
Mom taught me, then I practiced a lot.

>Any tips for a beginner?
Make sure you get a decent machine. Try to make a basic pair of trousers or a shirt first. USE PROPER PATTERNS.

If you're new you should not be attempting something original. Move on to costumey stuff later.

I'm not looking to make dresses or anything, but just finish up some basic shit around the house.

How the fuck do I keep fabric from stretching and not matching up with a non stretch fabric?

>>7795205
>decent machine
Yikes, what kind of price range?

>>7795209
Pins. Lots of them. And iron every seam before you sew it. It will help you find areas that won't lie flat so you can re-pin it if need be.

>>7795212
you can get a decent singer for under 200, often way less.

If kept in good condition, there's no reason not to get second hand, these things are built tough.

>>7795213
THIS, ALSO THIS. If you think you've pinned enough, double the number of pins. and dont be a lazy fuck. IRON DEM SEAMS.

You will be glad you did.

>>7795218
Yeah, I feel like Mum has had hers since the 80's, but she lives hours away.

I drew a dress, found some fabric I liked, bought a pattern for a basic princess-seam bodice and went to town.

>Pic is my second project ever. Doesn't show bodice.

Something I've found is that the 'hard' stuff like rolled hems, working with chiffon, invisible zippers, etc are ridiculously easy once you've done them for the first time. As soon as you work ou the trick to doing it, you've got it.

>>7795231
Aaand dropped pic.

>>7795234
>>7795231
Cool.

The hardest shit for me to make is hats. Hats are a fucking pain in the ass.

>>7795234
Nice! Do you have any suggestions for a practice material? Just like muslin or something?

>>7795244
Muslin. You should definitely make your first few pieces entirely in muslin. if they work well, you can pick the seams and use them as pre-cut templates to ensure your pattern worked/you cut it right.

>>7795231
>>7795234

Ooh, I saw you post that in the coords help thread. Looks like it's turning out quite well.

Any tips for rolling hems with chiffon? About to try and make a simple blouse out of it soon and I'm worried most about the hems.

>>7795213
Couldn't really iron the seams on my last endeavor; it was synthetic fur and I was afraid I'd melt it.
But I'll try doubling the pins. It never seems to work for me though. I seriously think I'm just retarded at sewing. All I was doing was just sewing two pieces of rectangular fabric together. I still managed to fuck it up.

>>7795260

I think if you tell us exactly what you were trying to sew together we might be able to help you better. As far as I can figure, one side is stretchy (knit jersey? Spandex? ) and the other, non stretch side, is fur??? I think?

Some materials shift when they're on the sewing machine, something about the pressure on the fabric being only on the bottom fabric. You need a walking foot to fix that problem.

If you don't want to splurge on a walking foot, usually I baste the two pieces together by hand with a running stitch, backstitch every few stitches to make sure you keep the material together. If the material is super shifty and isn't something that would show holes, I'd do two lines of stitches, on either side of where the sewing machine stitches should be. Then I'd run the sewing machine down the middle, and rip out the basting stitches after wards.

(In case you're wondering, even if you sew by hand you still need at least one set of basting stitches as the material can still shift in your hands while you're sewing without you realizing it, until you reach the end and one rectangle is suddenly longer than the other).


Another tip on working with fur fabric -- get a sharp pair of scissors. Brush the fur inwards, away from the cut edges of your pattern to the middle. Then trim the fur at the base. Trim the area that is your seam allowance, don't go further or you'll have bald spots. This helps your seams lie flatter and is easier to sew since there isn't all that fur in between.

>>7795231
I actually find invisible zippers easier than regular zippers at this point. Having one go through several layers of thicker fabric is a bitch though, I really need to learn how to do lapped zippers.

>>7795242
I'm like that for gloves.
FUCK GUSSETS UP THEIR STUPID ASS.

Actually since I'm here... Does anyone have any tips on making a curved pin tuck? I have a decorative one to make that curves in sort of a medium curve (not shallow; not like a 90 degree turn) and I'm thinking that maybe that isn't the easiest thing on the planet to do.

>>7795302
>>7795302
The fur was stretchy. I didn't even notice it until I started sewing. And the other fabric was some nightgown Flannel(?) I had laying around. I do apologize; this had been in my stash for years and I'm just now getting around to it, so I have no clue the exacts on the fabric.
(I think I have a walking foot around here somewhere...)
But I'll definitely try out the walking foot next time. That seems to be the problem I have when I sew stretchy shit, so hopefully it'll fix it.

>>7795323

There's a specialty machine foot that you can use to make pintuck-looking things, it does raise the fabric up to create something that looks like a pintuck.

I don't have it and can't tell you whether it works well, but some sewing bloggers I follow really seem to like it. Seems like you could sew the pintucks in any direction with this foot without need to press a fold of fabric down for the pintuck, so you could sew curves and circles with it quite easily.

If you're going the traditional route then I suggest approaching it like a circular hem; press everything before sewing and after sewing.

>>7795323
>>7795378
Actually Disregard that, I suck cocks.
I tried it out on a scrap, and it turned out just fine.
I guess I underestimated how easy it was.
Thanks for the info on the foot though! It looks cool.

>>7795194

If you're new to sewing and don't even have an idea of what you are doing then I recommend starting small and working up to costumes a bit at a time.

I've been sewing semi-regularly for 2 years now and started with a Brother LS2300PRW I found in Walmart for $80ish. Don't do that. Invest in a quality machine. I had to upgrade less than a year later because my that machine was so crappy. If I'd bought a better machine in the beginning I would've saved $80 and the headache it caused. Try to find a machine with a triple stitch and an over-locking stitch.

First thing you should do is learn how to sew a straight line. Learn how to raise and lower the feed dogs of your machine. Understand what sewing machine feet come with your machine and what they do. If you get a good machine/company most of these things are found in the manual. Mine taught me the basics on just about everything. Read your manual.

Also get as much experience as you can. I suggest looking for free plush patterns and printing them out. Learn how to make a pencil case and and a bag so you can practice zippers. Learn about gussets and darts. Move on up from there to small clothing items and making your own plush patterns so you understand how patterns actually work.

That's pretty much a quick rundown of everything I'd wish I'd known starting out. Good luck.

Also the sewing machine pictured is the one you should NOT get.

>How did you learn to sew? Any tips for a beginner?
Friends (who are also my cosplaying friends) taught me the basics on pattern drafting and sewing on their machines.

I've never actually used a pre-made pattern for solo projects (I have for projects where I'm working in a group) so I just did a lot of sketching and planning before actually getting down to the sewing - wasted a lot of time but it was good practice I guess.

Start with something simple but practical (no point in making something you won't use), use a pattern, read tutorials to get yourself comfortable with the steps involved.


Also sewing/sewing machine general question? So I've used my friends' new-ish (within the last 10 years?) machines and compared to my mom's old one from maybe 20-30 years ago I found it harder to sew in a straight line on mine. I have to concentrate and constantly adjust the fabric to keep the line straight but on theirs the machine tends to keep it naturally pretty straight on its own with minimal adjustment on my part. Any reason why this may be? Is my machine just old? I'm hesitant to take it apart to clean and oil or whatever in case I break it lol Any new machines anons would rec to buy in store?

im pretty much in the same exact boat as OP. Literally going blind into this sewing thing.

what exactly makes a sewing machine good?
I have access to a brother sc9500 machine. is that any good?

>>7795861
Metal parts generally make for a better machine, because they won't wear out as quickly. A good machine will have consistent stitch tension, and the timing of the gears will be precise (plastic parts wear out more quickly and the timing gets thrown). Be gentle with levers and switches, follow the instructions, clean the bobbin case area routinely, and keep it oiled as per the manual. If you sew and it starts making horrible noises or stalling, stop, take the work out, and rethread everything.
My sister has the specific machine you mentioned. The speed control was nice (I'm used to the suddenly acceleration of a Husqvarna) but I've only used hers for a couple of hours.
The main problem I've had with computerized machines is the fuses burning out on me.

>>7795861
Oh hey I think we have the same sewing machine, bought it this weekend and pretty much going in blind as well. (Still in the box because I have to buy thread and all that stuff.)

Let's do our best, anon!

>>7795843
I think your machine's feed dogs (the ridged things that push the fabric through from below) need to be adjusted? Take it to a repair shop for a tune up, they probably just need to retension a screw.

>>7795817
OP here, thanks for the advice anon.

The first time I sewed I just followed the manuel. If i had any questions, I'd just looked them up on youtube. I drafted my own pattern based on other ones I saw online and was way over my head cuz I didn't chose something easier. Yet despite the fact that it wasn't perfect, I was still pretty proud of it because hardest part of the project for me was going from the mind set that I'm going to make this to actually making it. Sewing isn't rocket science

>>7795817
Thanks for the advice. Do you have machine you would recommend to a beginner?

>>7795194
I'm hijacking this thread as I have a sewing question and told not to start threads on this board.

I've been sewing for a few years and I'm fairly proficient at sewing, but my preferred machine is an ancient treadle without reverse. The best advice I've seen is just hold the work and do a few stitches close together when you start, and do the same thing at the end; will this hold up as well as back stitching?

>>7795194
I started by getting comfortable with a machine, that included cleaning, and threading. I then progressed to making simple shirts and then jeans.
Just get a few crappy projects out of the way that you don't mind if they suck (they will) So use cheap fabric, used (clean) sheets are a cheap source of fabric to mess around with.
Get a decent used machine and learn how to at least thread and clean it.
Having said that I don't cosplay. I just make my own clothes.

P.S. I am a guy.

I'm taking a class at the local cc. Prior I had some private lessons, and some very basic instruction from my mom and dad.

>>7796720

Hahahahaha I started my sewing lessons on a machine without reverse. This is what my teacher taught:

Sew in the reverse direction for a bit. Stop, make sure the needle is in the fabric (turn the wheel until the needle is in the fabric if it's not). Lift the foot. Take your entire sewing project and turn it 180 degrees. Put the foot back down. Now you're sewing in the right direction. When you get to the end, do the same stop, lift foot, turn fabric 180 deg, put foot down, and sew for a couple of inches.

As far as I understand it this has always been the way to sew with sewing machines, the reverse thing was a recent invention to make life easier.

>>7795843
Some machines have wide feed-dogs, others have narrow ones. The width can matter as the narrow ones are easier to turn on. Most machines with zigzag are wider/harder to turn, which can be good for going in a straight line.

>>7796271
I have a Janome and it is a godsend. Nothing fancy, but it's a beast and way better than any shit Walmart puts out.
I have one of the absolute basic models; the number escapes me, but it only cost me 150 USD.

>>7796741
I'd read that, but it seemed like a pain every seam.
The other things I've heard are hand tying off threads, do a few short stitches by holding the fabric in place (just right presserfoot pressure) Or theadlock it with the glue stuff.

>>7796271

I've had daily access to four sewing machine in my life (two of those I own currently). They are/were all Brother machines so I can't say I can recommend a specific machine to a beginner because I don't have enough experience with other brands/machines. It would also depend on your needs and your budget.

However, I CAN recommend that you check to see if there are any sewing/embroidery dealers in your area and go check them out if there are. I really wouldn't skip this because it's important to know what brands they'll service or have experience servicing. My local dealer will only handle Brother sewing machines and that factored heavily into my decision to buy a Brother SE-400. Good dealers should also let you test out a machine or two. Don't even bother buying from them if they don't. Machines will definitely be more expensive coming from a dealer but there are often perks (like free lessons) that can come with them too. Like I said, it depends on your needs and budget.

That said, the machine I'm currently using is a brother SE-400 I got on sale from Amazon around Christmas a year or two ago. I think it's a very good entry embroidery/computerized sewing machine but it's only worth getting if you're interested in embroidery too (Warning: Embroidery is expensive as hell). A computerized sewing machine should be a lot cheaper than the SE-400 is if you're only after the sewing part.

TBH I didn't even realize how bad the Brother LS2300PRW was until I started using the SE-400. The LS2300PRW machine's stitches were very weak and I'd end up having to sew over them 2 or 3 more times to make sure my seams wouldn't unravel or tear apart. That's why I recommend a machine with a triple stitch. Triple stitches are very strong and durable. Once you can sew a straight line the triple stitch can save you a lot of time. Conversely, if you have to take a seam ripper to it then it's a big pain in the ass.

>>7796733
>P.S. I am a guy.

>>7796733
Really? Because you sound like a massive gaylord to me :^)

>>7795194
>How did you learn to sew?
My mom and grandma first taught me at around 9 or 10 years old, and then I learned some more techniques in home ec/facs classes.

>Any tips for a beginner?
Get a good machine, get the right color thread, and the bobbin is usually what messes up the thread tension.
Also, invest in a walking foot if you want to sew any type of fabric with a lot of stretch.

>>7796774
Yeah that's usually the sentiment I get greeted with on this board.

>>7795250
Hemmer feet are the best thing ever. They take a bit of getting used to, but the screw-like shape makes a tiny and very neat rolled hem automatically. I've had the best luck using one with thin fabrics.

http://www.sears.com/kenmore-hemmer-foot-set-4mm-6mm-for-horizontal/p-02097716000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=02097716000&kispla=02097716000P&kpid=02097716000&mktRedirect=y

>>7796753

>a pain every seam

And right there is the reason every machine now comes with reverse mechanism.

Of all the other options you mentioned, tying the thread and gluing are the least logical. Tying still takes time to do and knots can come undone quite easily, especially since you'll be cutting off the tails. Gluing, or putting nail polish or fraycheck is not a surefire method to hold the thread in place, plus the glue/nailpolish is likely to change the finish of the fabric so you'll end up with a permanent weird spot on your clothes.

Since you're very adamant about not turning your pieces around, I'll just suggest you try them all on scrap pieces before you start sewing, test the results, and then decide on a case-by-case basis which one you want to use for a particular sewing project. Think of them as alternative methods that you can switch to and from if you find the method you're using doesn't work for the material you're sewing at the moment.

The thing about doing a few short stitches by holding the fabric in place is that it is likely to make a hole in a more delicate fabric such as cotton lawn.

An alternative to the few short stitches is to actually sew half inch down, then lift the foot and the needle, and gently pull the fabric down so that the needle is back at the start again, then sew right over the half inch. If you only pull gently on the thread, you can often do this without casuing thread loops or wrinkles or breaking anything.

The thing that secures the threads is if you sew back over them again, so if you have two seams crossing each other, the bottom one doesn't need to be secured, the top one does though.

Hope that helped.

>>7796753
I have an old treadle machine like yours, go about 3/4 an inch down (where you would be starting your seam, sink your needle, lift the pressure foot, rotate the piece 180, drop the pressure foot and stitch towards the edge, just before you get to the edge, sink your needle, lift the foot, rotate, and seam normally. When you get to the end of the seam do the same thing and stitch back for 3/4 of an inch. I know it seems like an ordeal but after a few seams it's 2nd nature.

>>7796838

This looks neat. Thanks, anon!

I have a cheap ass singer and obviously its shit but I need it till I have enough for a new one. But for some reason it doesn't want to straight stitch at all, it'll do every stitch except straight. Anyone know why?

>>7796903
Have you had it cleaned and tuned up? If not do that (most places it'll set you back $65.)

If you have then you're going to have to explain what it's doing when it's not straight stitching.

>>7796903
It would have something to do with the motor in the arm probably.

>>7796919
Motor. In. The. Arm.

Yeah, um. No. No sewing machine has a motor in the arm.

>>7796918
I haven't but I'm already planning on buying a new one that isn't shit tier so I'll save my money. It acts normal though, but when I turn the knob to straight stitches it just zigzags.

>>7796919
Maybe, it's pretty old but it's hardly been used

>>7796763

Couple of things I forgot.

Bobbins: Don't just buy bobbins assuming they'll all be the same. Stick to your machine brand. I made the mistake of buying Singer bobbins once for my Brother SE-400 and they make a racket rattling in the bobbin case. The wrong size bobbin can also throw off the timing of your machine and mess up your stitches. If the timing is thrown off and you can't fix it yourself you might have to get it serviced and that's money practically flying out of your pockets. There's also different size bobbins depending on the brand so just keep track of what size your machine takes.

>>7796979

Needles: There are different sizes and types. I suggest researching them and taking them into consideration before each project. It can make your project far easier or far more difficult depending on the needle/fabric combination.

Also find out the brand of needles your machine comes with and try to buy those. Brother usually uses Organ brand needles and that's what they time their machines with. You'll get the best use from your machine using what it’s been timed with. You can use other brands of needles (duh) but, again, the timing/stitches of your machine might be thrown off and eventually your machine might need servicing. I've compared Schmetz needles I picked up in Walmart and they were actually a little bit bigger or smaller than the Organ ones I ordered online (I can't remember exactly which) and I noticed a decrease in sewing quality when I used them. I have had people swear by Schmetz but I just ended up with thread tangles and broken needles. I didn't even know needles could break until it happened.

You should also change your needle out regularly. I'm stupid and cheap and never even considered starting out that needles might wear out and need to be replaced. If you're just sewing and not embroidering they probably won't need to be changed too much but they should still be switched every once in a while. A dull needle doesn’t sew as well as a sharp one and needles can also get bent. Bent needles eventually snap and fly across the room or at your face so replace your needles otherwise one of your future projects might be an eyepatch.

>>7796956
It sounds like the zig-zag cam is stuck. How old is your machine?

>>7796933
Actually yes, modern machines can have motors in the arm. This is a diagram of a singer even.

And they are related to both lateral movement and the stepping motor

>>7795234
I love that fabric! Where did you get it?

>>7797042
But now that they said it's an older model I doubt it has one in this case.

Honestly not sure, depends on what it's doing. I assume it doesn't move at all, or is stuck in a zig zag?

>>7797045
No, the motor is not in the arm. Look at the diagram the drive shaft goes to the arm and moves things. People like you that can look at a diagram and see what doesn't exist hurt my brain.

>>7797042

>>7797051
But... It's in the top of the arm.

You're right I'm a bit confused by what you're saying. That motor resides in the arm. Maybe it doesn't have a correlation to the problem though of course

>>7797042

>>7797065
I'm not saying the main motor is in the arm. I was simply pointing out that some machines have multiple motors, one being in the arm is all friend.

>>7797065
Look at the last two diagrams, you'll see that the arm of the machine is no where near where it's labelled "arm" on your diagram

>>7797066
>>7797059
:( I just pointed out that some machines do in fact have another motor in the arm

>>7797070
Oh I see now friend. Thanks for correcting me. Misunderstanding on my part indeed.

>>7797070
Oh lol I wasn't even looking where it said the arm was, that motor is at the top I guess at the butt of the arm. I don't know why it says the arm is down there, that's not where I was talking about. But the bight motor I guess isn't considered in the arm, just at the end.

>>7797077
There you go, if we were talking industrial machines you'd be correct, but those are far and few between (the one I know is a machine that finishes the edges of furs and the motor in the arm pushes the fur towards the left, while the other mechanism [connected to the main drive] turns the leather down towards the right.)

Does anyone have a pattern for bloomers? I want to make a nice warm fleecey pair for winter because I'm perpetually cold.

>>7797082
Gotcha, sorry for the trouble and the bad diagram ROFL.

>>7797087
I'm sorry for accusing you of making things up, I didn't see where it said arm on your diagram until after the snark. Please forgive me, it's been a long day but that's no excuse.

Getting someone to show you the basics is best since they can point out your mistakes long before you figure them out and they're a habit by then. See if you can get a basic sewing class in your area. After you feel fairly confident with the machine and basic concepts you can then follow online tutorials and videos for basic projects. Practice with fabric that's cheap and easy ot work with like broadcloth (do not use this for costumes) or bedsheets from a thrift store

As for machines I think it's best to try and get a new one for cheap. Some models you can get from Joann or Walmart for $60-100 and they'll work fine. I think it's a better investment than trying to hunt down a used machine that might need repairs in a few months. Unless your mom has a friend who is getting rid of hers simply to upgrade.

>>7797071
I don't think you're paying attention.

>>7797059

>HOO-HA
>cryhole
>unobtainium golden snitch

It's too late at night to be laughing this hard.

>>7797098
>Some models you can get from Joann or Walmart for $60-100 and they'll work fine
False economy. You are not going to get a good new machine from either JoAnns or Walmart.

If you're going to spend the money then spend it wisely, either buy a quality machine from the start (and no, Singer doesn't really produce good quality beyond the occasional reissues of the 201 or the featherweight models.) If you make more than 2 dresses a year you'll want to have a machine that straight stitches and another machine that does overlock (serging), zig-zag is nice and it has it's place but you'll save yourself a lot of time and frustration (and money.)

Decorative stitches are cute and all, but computerized machines have stronger motors to make up for having lighter flywheels, and not the best vibration suppression in place-- so what ends up happening is that they vibrate themselves to death, the motherboards literally come apart. Fine, if you're lucky it happens within a year or two after the purchase of your machine and is still covered by the manufacturer, within 4 years you will still probably be able to find a replacement-- after that you can enjoy it as a lovely doorstop (we used to say "boat anchor" but with the lightweight cases, that doesn't apply anymore.)

The absolute next thing you should know is how to maintain your machine. The best way to do it have it professionally cleaned and tuned up by a sewing machine repair tech, have them mark a diagram showing you where to oil and make a note of how often they recommend oiling those spots. Next get a small tip on a vacuum cleaner and *always* vacuum out your machine before and after you sew. Always. No exception.

After that make a conscious effort to remember what is cheaper to replace. You should have a pair of rosary pliers in your sewing kit because it works like this: sewing machine parts are expensive, never EVER pull on jammed thread, force your needle, or yank fabric back and forth. Needles are cheap.

>>7797133
The walmart near me has a few really nice Brother machines, actually. They even embroider, for like $200.

>>7797133
..(cont)
Since needles are cheap, cut them. Since thread is cheaper than needles, cut it. Since fabric can be more expensive than thread or needles, try not to cut it, but it's usually cheaper than your machine so cut it if you have to.

Also seamer is the gender neutral of "seamstress" and sewer is where poo goes, not a person that sews. (I know the dictionary disagrees with me, but really, do you want to be a sewer?)

Next is learn to cut. Don't pin a pattern to your fabric and then try to cut it in your lap. Lay it flat on a table and cut carefully, if you like having feeling in your hands (a feeling other than pain) then invest in a pair of spring loaded sewing shears. Otherwise get a cutting mat, a rotary cutter and some good weights (you'll thank me.)

Don't pin your pieces together with any old pins (I prefer to baste or use a tailors tack) use fine pins for anything woven tighter than a standard calico or broadcloth. Basting (with a long running stitch or tailors tack stitches) is much better (both for your machine and for your sanity) than pinning, and yes, takes a little time to master but once you have it down, you're good forever.

Then start practicing, not on full sized clothes but doll clothes. You'll be braver when $120 worth of fabric isn't at stake and you won't be stuck sewing muslin until your eyes bleed every time you see a color between tea-stained cream and taupe.

>>7797133
I didn't mean long term investment. But for something that just makes straight lines and comes with a few feet then I think you can still get a decent starter machine there. If they change the needle when they should and maintain it regularly it should suffice. I think anon should make sure they actually want to stick with sewing long term before recommending that 70s era Bernina beauty. And yes most decorative stitches are useless until you can build something decent first.

>>7797134
For $200 don't trust it to embroider well.

>>7797144
Look at it this way; I just helped a friend buy a machine for $12 at a thrift shop and gave him $14 worth of feet (he didn't need them because his machine has the same feet, but I feel the quick change feet are generally easier to work with) and sent him to my sewing machine tech who only cleaned the machine for $36 (usually it's around $65 for a cleaning and tuneup but this machine didn't need the tuneup or any replacement parts.) So for $62 he's set, he can sew a life time on that machine if he pursues sewing, if he abandons it then he could easily sell it for way more than he's invested in it.

>>7797134

The only machine I can think of off the top of my head that I've seen in my local Walmart, is from the Brother brand, is sometimes priced at $250-300, and can embroider is the PE-500. As far as I know it's an embroidery-only machine, though. Be sure to double check that kind of stuff before buying.

>>7797142

> a cutting mat, a rotary cutter and some good weights

While I think those items are a good investment for regular "sewers" (I just like that so much) I don't think it's as useful for beginners.

Personally, I hate rotary cutters and I think mats are only useful if you get the big ones that need a lot of space. Clothing and Quilting are easier with mats but if you're doing simple projects (bags, plushies) then they're not really needed. Weights I'm iffy on. They have their uses but I rarely need those, either. Then again I'm not big on making clothes. I think until you get to the point where you're working with large pieces of fabric you don't need to focus on mats, cutters, and weights.

I personally like quilting pins for my projects because they're longer than the standard pins, easier to see/find when they inevitably end up in the carpet, and hold things together with fewer pins. However, I think investing in something thinner/fine seems like a good idea too. I'm curious to know what you use.

>>7797142
No to rotary cutters. Good, fabric only scissors...definitely. I trace and cut my patterns as per fashion incubator because it is more accurate

>>7797168
> regular "sewers" (I just like that so much)
Spoken 'sewer' doesn't sound bad, but written out: "poo depository" there's just no getting around it.

When I use pins, I use the button head quilting pins because they lay flat and they are finer than the yellow ball headed quilting pins or use the small ball top satin pins. I prefer tailor tacking though, because if I fail to pull out the thread before going over it with the sewing machine I don't lose my needle or create chaos in the middle of a seam.

Rotary cutters-- they are so worth it. I don't like the plain straight handled ones, I have an ergonomic handle and I get really nice accurate cuts with it. If the fabric won't behave (and this is for scissor cutting too) but you can iron it-- do a test piece by ironing a swatch to some freezer paper (shiny side to fabric) and then pull it off-- if it comes off cleanly you're golden, iron more onto a larger piece and carefully pull it off when you're done cutting. If it shreds then it's safer to tack the pattern to the cloth before cutting.

Old school pins on floor solution-- pin a white sheet to your floor under your sewing area if you have carpet to pin to, otherwise just lay it out and use a little double sided tape while you're sewing to hold it in place.

>>7797178
Rotary cutters are way more accurate if you use them correctly. I'm not claiming that there's no learning curve, because there is, but once you're over it you're over it.

Anyone have advice for where to place boning in a bodice, and how to make it not appear on the outside?
I'm working on a pretty simple corset-style bodice at the moment, and I don't need a lot of support so just have rigilene and zip ties ready. And I'm kind of lost as to where to position the boning.

>>7797199

This is a chickadee 2000, which is a difficult to master rotary fabric cutter and everyone is expected to use them professionally unless CAD is involved and big stacks are being cut at the same time-- so there's absolutely no reason to fear a little fiskars manual rotary cutter.

>>7797201
Is your bodice lined or unlined? If it's lined then you can create a pocket to slip the boning into place (play around with some scraps to find a discrete stitch setting, generally smaller is better.

If it's unlined you can stitch some bias tape to where you want to place the boning and do the same thing.

>>7797207
>chickadee 2000
>$400 on Ebay
>for...beginners?

Getting a little out of the range of hobby enthusiasts here, bro.

Anyone have any idea of how I would install the zipper on this with the thick cord in the way?

>>7797212
That was not what I was saying. I was trying to point out that the pro tool is way more difficult than a regular manual rotary cutter so this rotary cutter fear is irrational

>>7797213

How do you normally terminate the thick cord? (Like so you just cut it off and it doesn't fray or so you need to do something special to it?)

You just need to end it right next to the zipper.

>>7797218
Oh okay I've never used cord like this so I didn't know.

>>7797223

You should probably find out before you sew, just to make sure you don't end up with a skirt that has frayed gold cords after one wash.

Cut a couple of inches of the braid and toss it in the washing machine a few times (not just once) and see what happens to it. If it comes out looking frayed, or comes apart completely, you'll either need to fraycheck it or sew a cover over it (I'd suggest making the cover out of matching gold ribbon or fabric (gold ribbon being easier to find)).

If the gold comes off in the washing machine... you should probably switch trims. You could try send it to the dry-cleaners to see if that works better instead.

Either way, end the trim just before the zipper starts. That's all there is to it.

>>7797209
Lined. And okay, I guess pockets/channels are the way to go then? Would an extra layer of fabric between the lining and bodice make the boning less visible from the outside or do I not have to worry about it?

>>7797215

Woah, buddy. Not sure how you jumped from people preferring scissors to being frightened of them but okay. I used one for a couple years so I'm pretty sure I'm not going to scream at the sight of one. I just prefer scissors because, uh, preferences? People have them and sometimes they don't share yours. I'm not exactly sure why you are so concerned with pushing rotary tools. Are you a rotary tool salesperson? Are you trying to sell them to the beginners? Because I thought that was what this thread was about: helping beginners get into a hobby. I'm pretty sure they're going to have enough shit overwhelming them as is because they probably can't even cut, pin, or sew a straight line and here you are trying to encourage them to use a rolling pizza slicer to cut themselves on. They need to get the sewing basics down first before looking for shortcuts.

>>7797199
Is this a beginner thread or not? A good pair of scissors will cost less than a decent mat and cutter, and the learning curve is way less steep.

>>7795194
>How did you learn to sew?
Learned in school. But practiced alot on my own. Looked at alot of tutorials.
Any tips for a beginner?
Use patterns, pin everything, press all your seams. Practice things like curves, armholes and princess seam on scrap fabric

>>7797034
Like...almost 6 years. Damn this thing's old

I started sew early on in my childhood then I had a semsters worth of teaching at high school under an Ex-BBC Seamstress. Like what a lot of these guys have mentioned a great sewing machine will help you at lot in the long run, mine at has soo much tension it's not funny. Also remember that google is your friend and that a lot of the things you want to make most likely have already been made and up as patterns or in forms of instructions. Learn to hand sew so that you can still sew when you don't have a machine it's pretty simple. Keep all your sewing materials, needles, thread, buttons all in a box or cabinet so you can have everything organized for each project you're doing

>>7797590
6 years isn't that old for a sewing machine, but that would put it in the right age. Try putting it on zig zag on the widest stitch width, lubricate it, and run it over some scrap fabric (about 20 inches of cotton) reduce the stitch width gradually and see if it starts responding (do 20 inches on each setting.) Maybe it'll come lose when your machine has been warmed up-- it does sound like the cam is stuck, or whatever disengages the cam is funky, but there's no way to tell if you don't open up the machine case.

>>7797264
>I'm pretty sure they're going to have enough shit overwhelming them as is because they probably can't even cut, pin, or sew a straight line and here you are trying to encourage them to use a rolling pizza slicer to cut themselves on
There it is again, false economy. If they can't cut a straight line, they can't sew a straight line. I keep reading in these forums that "bodices are tricky"-- no they aren't if you have good cuts, yes they are if you have to guess where the seam is supposed to go-- everything is going to be tricky when you have to guess which line to follow.

Rotary cutters take practice, but in the long run, practice makes perfect. It may be your preference to put together outfits that look like Auntie Erma made them for your class play, but those kinds of results frustrate most people.

Sewing is so much more than just putting seams and hems on things and praying it doesn't look like ass when you're done. You're telling me about basics but above you were telling people to do whole outfits in muslin. No. Just no. That's not right, that's like crawling up my ass for recommending swimming goggles when 10 minutes before you're like "Go jump in the deep end"

Delay some gratification and learn to cut like a big girl.

>>7797255
Depends on the fabric. What kind of fabric are you using?

Ultimately I would recommend doing some samples-- use scraps of the fabric and lining that you are using and try doing the pockets in a few different ways. Change your stitch length and try with interfacing and try without interfacing and see which is the most camouflaged.

Also, I typed bias tape last night, I actually meant to say twill tape-- which I don't think you have to use because you're doing a lined bodice but wanted to correct just in case someone else wanted to try.

>>7797660

I'll admit sewing has made me far more organized than I was when I started. I use a tackle box with little dividers you can move to keep my regular thread and misc. sewing supplies in. "Crafting" boxes are usually the same thing as a tackle box they're just marked up.

For hand sewing plushies I recommend buying a set of doll sculpting needles. I've pretty much switched over to using them for most of my hand sewing no matter what the project is. It's easier on my fingers since the needles are huge. I'd also say if you're doing/planning a lot of hand sewing and you're using those small generic needles then get a thimble and save yourself some bruised fingertips, too. But I think that's verging into intermediate territory, not beginner territory. Neither are necessary for beginners. If you have money to burn, though, go for it.

Also is it just me or does anyone else cringe when they see people leave their fabric sitting out? My house is old and the AC practically coughs out dust when it's turned on so if the fabric is left out it gets crap all over it. I keep my fabric in lawn bags/garbage bags to prevent that but I realize other people probably don't have the same dust problems I do. Still, I hate seeing fabric left sitting out.

>>7797779
>Also is it just me or does anyone else cringe when they see people leave their fabric sitting out?
Amen. My house doesn't have a dust problem but I bag or seran wrap everything that I'm not going to get to in a reasonable amount of time.

>>7797779
The only time I leave it out is when I'm working with it and if I'm going to be working with it the next day. For long term storage I've never seen anyone who just leaves it out...that's so messy.

>>7797936
I have seen people who leave their sewing out everywhere and it's awful. My mom had the habit of taking over the entire diningroom and then procrastinating, so that when her sewing was done it had been contaminated by everything in the house and had contaminated everything else in the house. That's probably why I'm such a nut now about always having studio space and always keeping it tidy-- no bits of poly cotton in my roasts and no roasts in my fabric stash.

>>7797992
Do you actually have a space where you just do sew work? I legit clean my room and clear my desk surface (including scrubbing it down in case there's pencil/marker marks or something) before a sewing project and then store it all away for school work.

>>7798020
I have my spinning and fiber arts stuff in there too because at a certain point it all starts to overlap, but sewing and machine knitting dominates the studio.

Sewing in a bedroom is crazy hard, I've done it and I wouldn't go back to it unless I absolutely had no other alternatives. I might actually just wrap myself in a fabric toga or something if that was my last choice. You must be super efficient with your space.

>>7798032
I got a gigantic hand-me-down desk from a relative that's way too big for me and my room. I clear it to pattern and cut fabric and I've made a makeshift ironing area on a third of it because my mom gave away our ironing board...but not our iron...idek. My space is slowly getting more and more cluttered lol I have boxes everywhere to attempt to organize.

>>7798020
I have too small floor space to do anything so I have to cut fabric on the kitchen floor then sew it on my tiny ass desk. I would make a sewing area in my basement but I dont want spiders in my stuff and also my mom's freeloading babydaddy has taken up all the space there.

>>7798087
Can you hang things from the walls? If you can-- go up. Hanging shoe organizers work really well for holding tools and notions so long as they aren't too heavy something like:

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/16-PKT-Hanging-Shoe-Organizer/9121211/product.html?cid=143974&fp=F&TRACK=CSEShopping&mr:referralID=a07882f9-33ac-11e4-9a8f-001b2166becc

I suppose you could even keep a couple works in progress in the cubbies too, so long as they aren't too fluffy.

And then there are these pant hangers (I know you can find them cheaper:

http://www.jcpenney.com/everyday-prices/honey-can-do-4-pack-basic-clamp-pants-hangers/prod.jump?ppId=pp5001890486&selectedSKUId=80102660018&selectedLotId=8010266&fromBag=true&cm_mmc=ShoppingFeed-_-GooglePLA-_-Hangers-_-80102660018&utm_medium=cse&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=hangers&utm_content=80102660018&cvosrc=cse.google.80102660018&cvo_cid=41327981378&gclid=CMrV3PH3xcACFZSFfgodJGUAuw&kwid=productads-plaid^67370046218-sku^80102660018-adType^PLA-device^c-adid^41327981378

Pant and skirt hangers rock for hanging flat folds of fabric, get some clear bags to keep the dust off of them, punch the hanger through the bottom of the bag and you are golden

>>7798112
>I have too small floor space to do anything so I have to cut fabric on the kitchen floor then sew it on my tiny ass desk

Do you have a budget? It might be best to go in with a few friends and get a small space retail/commercial/office space to work out of just so you don't go insane from lack of space/privacy sewing dilemmas aside.

>>7798142
Im not too sure about that idea but im interested, wouldn't it be expensive?

>>7798232
Not as expensive as renting an apartment. You don't want to go out into an industrial area but a mixed use area will usually have some studio or office space for between $200-$400 depending on the size of the studio and if you get/need parking, some will have utilities and wifi, some won't so make sure that you factor that in.

Retail spaces that have street view and parking go for so much more, but a lot of times the upstairs above a bar or restaurant in old buildings will have been flats or apartments at one time, a lot of times the building owners just use them for storage or not at all. Another alternative is to find a storage facility that has electricity to the units, it's not prime because you won't have a washer and dryer with you when you're working, but it's better than what you have going on now.

Here's what I would do, I would first check craigslist and price out office or studio space, then I would write up essentially a business plan (assuming you're under 18) to get your mom to sign the lease. I would put all the expenses itemized first, the advantages to having this space available to you not just your personal advantages, but how it would benefit everyone, and then (if you're going to be really clever) how this could be college resume material, how you plan on paying for or reimbursing costs, what additional income this could earn you (if that's part of it), etc.

If it's absolutely a no-go then I would post ads asking for free space to use, you might luck out and find a situation that works. You may need to money up a bit first, but it's doable

>>7798377
Thanks for the advice anon, I'll look around

>>7798119
I've actually thought of getting the shoe hanger/cubby thing just because they were cute looking but I wanted to find a nicer one first. All my walls have something pushed against them though because I wanted to maximize the floor space in the middle.

>>7798590
No problem, I'm always happy to brainstorm.

Hm.. I need to make some money over the next couple of months. Is anybody interested in custom made stuff? Whether you had your own design in mind or wanted me to help you work something out.

>tfw I can't risk buying materials to sell pre-made pieces because I need to save everything I can right now.

>>7797721

>False Economy

I don’t think you’re taking into consideration that the blade will need to be replaced eventually. Also it’s not really going to end up saving them any money if they end up quitting. My rotary blade ended up in drawer for 3 years until I picked up an interest in sewing again. My scissors, on the other hand, have been used daily for as long as I can remember.

> If they can't cut a straight line, they can't sew a straight line

Actually I think those things are separate skills but whatever. I’m just saying that beginners who can't sew or cut a straight line should learn what they’re doing before taking your suggestion to heart and running out to buy a rotary cutter thinking it's an absolute necessity.

> Rotary cutters take practice, but in the long run, practice makes perfect

Okay, so let the beginners gain some experience and graduate to rotary cutters when they desire to.

> You're telling me about basics but above you were telling people to do whole outfits in muslin.

False. I've never even brought up muslin or entered the bodice conversation so I think you're getting some people mixed up here. All I’ve been saying are rotary cutters aren't something a beginner should worry about. They’re something to keep in mind for later but not until they've learned how to hold a needle, thread a machine, sew a button, and so on.


>Delay some gratification and learn to cut like a big girl.

>big girl

> Auntie Erma made them for your class play

>class play

Ugh. Leave me out of your age play.

I have a hanging shoe organizer I've slung over the outside of my closet door. It holds so much. I keep all of those little annoying fiddly things in it (things like buttons, sandpaper, scissors, markers, glue, plastic baggies, first aid stuff, cleaning supplies, and so on). The only downside is it's annoying to look at. It's worth it, though. I haven't lost a button or marker in two years.

>>7799024
>I don’t think you’re taking into consideration that the blade will need to be replaced eventually
Scissors need to be sharpened on a regular basis too, and that costs more than a pack of blades.

>Actually I think those things are separate skills but whatever
Reality backs me up on this, if you can't cut straight you're going to have a much harder time sewing straight, if you can't sew straight your stuff is going to look awful

>Okay, so let the beginners gain some experience and graduate to rotary cutters when they desire to

That's perfectly fine, all I'm saying is that for beginners the option to use a mat and rotary cutter is a good one, you're the one trying to completely exclude it

>Age play
Bullshit, professional experience

>>7799048
>I have a hanging shoe organizer
Nice, those do a really good job.

If you have the space for them mid-century kitchen cubbies work. This one isn't bad, the one before it though has a much bigger footprint, and the shelves inside were spaced oddly so I never felt like I was using them efficiently. I think sometime during the next week or two I'll install pegs in a few of the boxes.

>>7799167
Is that a singer sphinx? It looks like a model other than a 27 or 127 due to the different needle plate and bobbin cover

>>7796878
Thanks, but I tend to work with heavy, manly fabrics, nothing light enough to be damaged like what you were describing.

>tfw running over a pin with your serger and breaking the upper knife is the scariest shit ever
>replacing the blades was not as hard as you thought

Learned my lesson. Fuck pins

>>7800573
Yes. Good eye.

>>7800595
>heavy, manly fabrics
In that case if your tension is correct the threads should be pretty secure all on their own

>>7800676
Sorry, it's a model 15 hand crank from 1933

>>7800716
I have a 127, my mother has a 27. A 15 with that decal would look really nice, but could be hard to use with the crank.

>>7800681
Maybe I should just make a few items and see if any seams start to fray.

>>7800747
It's really easy to use, the hand cranks in general take a little getting used being left handed doesn't hurt when it comes to guiding fabric single handed-- I think right handed people would have a more difficult time

>>7800752
I would try just sewing together some swatches and throwing them in the wash and dryer before doing a whole item, but I'm pretty sure it'll be fine

>>7800637
>sewing with pins on your serger

oh god why, that's terrifying

>>7800934
I can see how being left-handed would help with using that style of machine, having said that I still prefer my treadle.

>>7800940
I keep forgetting that a lot of feminine fabrics are insanely light weight, and the stuff I'm working with is often many times the thickness.

>>7801490
>feminine fabrics?
Is that a thing? What's the difference between manly/feminine fabrics, weight?

>>7801881
That isn't a thing. Mostly it has to do with what's appropriate for a garment. So with things like dresses you'll get a lot more sheers and satins, but if you look at a high quality men's dress shirt that fabric is quite light weight. Really nice wool for mens suits isn't that heavy either. But twills and denims, often used for more casual pants for both genders are heavier. Outdoors and military gear tends to be denim or canvas type fabrics to wear harder in rougher conditions, so if he's a military type that would be why he uses those.

>>7797083
Look up the gosurori one, there's an English translation with instructions.

>>7800637
>>7801222
I left a pin in accidentally once. Shit was terrifying, I'm so glad I didn't hurt myself or destroy my machine.

>>7801893
Oh, I see. Thanks for explaining.

>>7801222
>>7801903
It was one of those 'I'm tired but I'm gonna keep sewing and I fucking just rethreaded my machine 5 time because of using inferior bulky nylon" mistakes I swear, if you're tired, stop sewing.

>people use machines
My Oma taught me the way that she learned back in Switzerland. Some real old-country shit right there. Takes forever though, and you really need to work on consistency. The upside is that you can be cosy in a big chair somewhere while you do it.

Would anyone know any good pattern websites?

What's your opinion on circle cloaks, /sew/? Are they a good first project?

>>7802184
> easy tier
Although there's gathering involved in some patterns and that has always been a bitch to me because I'm impatient and always end up fucking that part up.

>>7802202
Are you gathering with a running stitch by hand or a basting stitch on your machine?

Running stitch by hand is a pain in the ass, even if you're patient you're going probably mess up.

>>7802202
>>7802338
Gathering and ruffling feet are your friend

>>7801881
I'd say mostly fashion, usually excessively heavy, durable fabric just isn't as feminine as a lighter weight substitute. Look at jeans, women's jeans are often paper thin, men's jeans are more likely to be 12oz denim.

Don't sew cause i'm not a chick.

J/K, the goddamn machine demanded a sacrifice of flesh and blood now I refuse to get my hand near one of those things.

>bought sewing machine last weekend
>ordered fabric, thread, etc monday online from joanns
>it's friday and it hasn't shipped yet

I'm going to scream, I just want to start sewing, the machine is sitting on the table. Waiting.

>>7803176
Do you have a pattern? If not you could make one while you wait. Patterning takes me longer than actually sewing if it's an odd shaped piece.

>>7803176
order from fabric.com next time

>>7802338
It's more the part where I have to pull on the thread. I always do it too hard and end up snapping it, meaning I have to start all over again.

> Or maybe the thread I'm using is just crap, I dunno

>>7802349
I think I'll look to getting one to protect my sanity.

>>7803360
Or not. They took a month to ship me stuff that was in stock, and didn't even start processing it until I called them to nag.

>>7802338
I only plan on gathering mine a bit at the neck to attach the hood.

>>7803413
Really? are you in the US? if not that would explain. I always do free shipping and get stuff within a week.

>>7803371
Make sure you're not using quilting or embroidery thread (they'll snap) and that you're not working the bottom threads.

Loosen your machine tension to "0" and once you start stitching (on a nice long stitch) take the bottom thread tail and wrap it around a pin in your fabric (out of the way because you're going to be coming that way again) do the same thing when you reach the end.

Do your second line (make sure not to go over your threads or pins) and do the same thing. Bottom thread ends around pins.

Tighten your top threads from either side at the same time, work your gathering from the outside in (I take a ribbon or twill tape and cut it to the length I want, pin it to the ends and the middle and then just work the gathers until it fits the length exactly. Tie off, baste by hand, and sew directly to your ribbon or tape to secure. If you have a roller foot, this is the time to use it. Otherwise just go slow and feed evenly.

I'm a big fan of ruffling feet and shirring feet too, but the opening to put the part you want tucked/ruffled/shirred, is to the right of the foot. In a pinch you can jam a baby dress or a chiffon cape through, but don't count being able to wrangle normal sized clothes through it with any grace (you can do, I've done it-- take a few dowels and pinch and roll the fabric not being sewn to help-- think noodles around chopsticks)

The other issue is that in order to end up with a particular length takes some fussiness and math. It's not that hard to gauge out that starting with 2ft of fabric is going to end with 14" of ruffles, but it throws people, and of course changing the stitch length, tension, bight (if you're a zig-zaggin') will fuck your math.

>>7803371
From the sound of it you bought 3 for a dollar thread, the thread you were given was crap to begin with, or your machine is out of wack.

>>7800934

http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.ca/2013/06/the-great-sewing-machine-backstitch.html

Use stitches really close together or a few stitches in place.

>>7795209
>>7795213
Pins are totally unnecessary; the problem is that you're either forcing fabric through the machine, pulling it away from the machine, or the feed dogs and foot aren't working together properly.

Use less pins.

>>7796838
I hate these; I also hate those automatic seaming feet. They produce very bulky, less accurate work than the dressmaking techniques I was taught. Instead of using that, notch the hem at the side seams and slowly press it up.

>>7796878
>>7796896
use smaller backtacks.

>>7797168
I don't like rotary cutters either, but weights are vital for accuracy. I use scissors, phones, and other heavy objects when laying out markers.

>>7797779
eh, I wash all fabric before I use it. Even silk; that way it's discolored and ruined before I have a chance to do it myself.

>>7806883
Another lefty here, I love rotary cutters. Left handed scissors suck, cutting with my right hand is okay but I'm way more accurate with rotary cutters in my left hand.

>>7806904
Righty master race.
Interestingly I seem to be left eye dominant; makes archery and photography a little unusual for me.

>>7806918
Archery? Sewing?

If you also shoot pool you might be my evil twin

http://www.ktre.com/story/4073450/stop-backstitching-when-you-sew-eliminate-that-homemade-look

>>7803541
I am in fact in the US. They just didn't want to ship my stuff for some reason.

>>7807294
This article is a load of horseshit.

>>7807466
>http://www.ktre.com/story/4073450/stop-backstitching-when-you-sew-eliminate-that-homemade-look
Oh dear mercy.

I feel you Op. Being a part time college student and full time military member I have little to no time to cosplay. Not to mention almost no one I know cosplays.

>>7803176 here
After a week Joanns decided to email me and tell me that the fabric I bought was out of stock. Everything else shipped though. welp.

>>7803186
I really should look into that, since I have no idea how patterns work/how to make them.

>>7803360
Will check them out, thanks anon. My mother and I will be sharing the machine so half of that fabric was quilting shit for her.

>>7806883

I wash all my fabric as soon I get home and then keep it sealed in a bag. My central AC has severe dust issues so if I didn't do this I'd end up needing to wash it weekly or wash it every time I wanted to use it. I have way too much fabric to be doing that. I usually keep a dryer sheet in bag to make it smell nice, too.

I'm guess I'm also bit of a germ freak so when I see people leaving their fabric out (fabric used for business purposes no less) I wonder what smells it's picking up, if it's been knocked on the floor, if it's been stepped on it, if their dog has been rolling around on it, what might have gotten on it, and so on. That probably makes me seem paranoid but I've seen how some people treat their fabrics/dresses and it just disgusts me.

>>7807466
>>7807580
http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.ca/2013/06/the-great-sewing-machine-backstitch.html

>>7806648
>>7807294
>>7807855
fwiw backstitching is commonly used in industrial sewing, but probably because it's really fast. It does have its uses, totally; certain applications like exposed zippers that will be exposed to a lot of stress and will not be buried within other seaming, for example. I've seen it on plenty of well made, expensive and expensive-looking garments.

>>7807843
I buy my fabric from jobbers in the fashion district, who take absolute shit care of it. Sometimes it's stained so badly that I have to dye it or cut away portions of it, but getting silk and other luxury textiles for pennies on the dollar makes it easy not to give a fuck.

>>7797779
>Also is it just me or does anyone else cringe when they see people leave their fabric sitting out?
I've got sterilite tubs for all my craft stuff because of dust and bugs. Spiders just love to shit on stuff and stain it. I had some fabric packed away in a cardboard box, I opened it the other day and some fucking spiders had gotten in there and died and stained the fabric. Goddamn bastards.

>>7808133
Drop it in a pot of black dylon. Black is chic.

>>7807843
If you decide to have your ducts blown out remove your furniture (at least your upholstered stuff), area rugs, clothes and fabrics. Had mine done in my last home and it looked like a bomb went off, fortunately my dad insisted we put all my stuff in storage for the week and I immediately stopped cussing about the expense of a storage unit for a month after I saw what the house looked like. Ducts were clean, chimney swept, flue repaired-- everything else looked like hell. Be prepared to shampoo your carpets and pay to have your blinds cleaned. It was worth the expense, but I was lucky that I had someone to nag me about doing it right.

>I usually keep a dryer sheet in bag to make it smell nice, too.
You're smart and I'm stealing this idea from you, thank you anon.

>I'm guess I'm also bit of a germ freak
Oh no you are not, and you're right to wonder. I've seen fabric storage where people have just piled more and more unfinished rolls and loose folds, even chaff (serger scraps and sundry floor sweepings) in one big warehouse for decades to the point where the bottom layers have literally started composting into dirt, other places where new wool suiting is stored with moth infested god-knows-what, and manufacturers deciding to buy a truck full of water damaged knit liner (you know, the kind that goes into the crotch of swim suits and bikinis?) and mix it in with new full priced not water damaged stock. You are way more sane than you give yourself credit for

>>7808133
I use the zip top shopping bags from clear plastic bags for my in progress projects, they are reusable and the handles make them really easy to store on hangers, otherwise I use the trouser hangers for flat folds and hang a clear garbage bag over them (moths hate light, I hate moths, it's all good.)

One thing that is kind of mandatory (besides vacuuming constantly with a hepa filter vacuum cleaner) is periodically shifting your stash around. If a fabric can take the heat I'll wash it, dry it and then iron it flat before folding it up and storing it. If it can't then I take it to the dry cleaner.

I've also learned that when I see a spider in my work room, that means it's time to take everything out of my studio, clean the studio and clean everything before it goes back into the studio. Spiders don't go where they don't have a food source, so if you see one (alive) you know it's there because it has a reason to be there. I treat the baseboards with neem while I'm at it. It sounds extreme, and it probably is (a little) but I've seen colleagues that think they can deal with an infestation once it's started and they can't. It's a crazy sad decline into some weird hoarderdom seamstress vs. nature thing. I have a friend that has had a moth infestation (grain moths and wool moths, because once one moves in the other follows) who absolutely refuses to throw out what's probably a couple thousand dollars worth of fleece and silk because she just can't stand the thought and it's wrecking her life, destroyed her completely on a professional level, and she's soon to be homeless if she can't deal with the reality of her situation-- my husband thought I was kind of crazy for being so fastidious but he's watched my friend's decline with me and he respects that I'm not exactly being irrational now.

>>7808103
Could just be the old junk around here, but most industrial high speed machines I've seen don't have reverse.

>>7809039
Different anon, I've worked on a ton of industrial machines in medium-sized factories and I can assure you they definitely do have a reverse.

Fashion incubator is seriously one of my favourite blogs ever.

>>7809075
Agreed, I got to a serious scool and every straight stitch has a reverse. Basic construction teaches back stitching but advanced, depending on the instructor, introduces that graduated stitch one of the links talk about.

>>7809205
Sure, but I'll fight Kathy over sleeve cap ease.

>>7796801
Probably because you're kind of a faggot. Nobody cares about your gender.

Is there possibly an anon here that can help me with creating a pattern?

>>7809262
I can, what are you doing?

>>7809273
Reimi Sugimoto from Jojo. I asked in the Jojo thread but realized this thread would probably be my best bet.
It isn't anything too complicated (at least not that I can tell), but I won't actually be the one sewing it. A friend is and she was hoping I could find a pattern.
Sorry for this by the way. I just can't wrap my head around it just yet. I'm still learning.
---
Some art-
http://img4.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20140612044733/jjba/images/7/7a/Reimi_prof.png

http://e-shuushuu.net/images/2009-07-16-178895.jpeg

http://static.zerochan.net/Reimi.Sugimoto.full.733665.jpg
----
A few IRL examples-
http://cosplayers.acparadise.com/12361/12361-36343-1cd25d7c21db7d6e81e44dd4cfb3417a.jpg

http://cosplayers.acparadise.com/73094/73094-46ef703877ac613846ece8643f5bbf89.jpg

>>7809230
Haha, such a dividing topic right? That and her posts about the myth of vanity sizing....

>>7809301
I just read that, I technically agree with everything she says. Her titling is a bit sensationalist--probably intentionally.

She does concede that sizes have gotten larger, i.e. S has grown larger as people have gotten fatter, so she's not denying that the essential physical action of what "vanity sizing" IS exists, she's arguing the concept that sizing itself should be constant throughout history.

Essentially she says sizing is like a sliding scale to accommodate the general population, similar to how IQ numbers are shifted as the general population becomes more intelligent so that 85-115 points is *always* considered "average" intelligence, even though, for example, the 85 IQ of today would have actually tested as 100 IQ in the past.

>>7809292
That's way too basic of a dress to block out, unless you have tentacles or something, you're much better off hashing together a few patterns together to get what you want, the first pattern link will take you to a shirt dress that has the right silhouette and the 2nd one uses a stretch fabric.

http://www.pinkchalkfabrics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9775&gclid=CIOzrczf0sACFVVsfgodE6MAuQ

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/5155610440174668866?q=shirt+dress+sewing+pattern&biw=1366&bih=667&psj=1&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&bvm=pv.xjs.s.en_US.ZIOukfQmgko.O&tch=1&ech=1&psi=pzcOVMi4CuKDiwKvlYHgDg.1410218092603.9&ei=ozgOVKekCIaHjAK3kIBI&ved=0CJ0DEKkrMBQ4eA

Don't get me wrong, I'm happy to take your money if you really to go that route but I think the dress and armwarmers are basic enough that your seamstress can take it on if you draft as you go for some of the details

>>7809541
Ahh... I thought it was too basic but at least this reassures it.

>>7809572
Definitely look at similar stretch fabric dresses, for the button details at the shoulder it's just a matter of drawing out the right sized, right shape on some swedish tracing paper (or packing paper works, if you're in a pinch) and literally taping it to an existing pattern. Just have your steamstress use knit interfacing so that it holds the shape and a light knit facing inside so it doesn't get the sad sag going on when you actually wear it.

Look at it this way, I just saved you all but $12 that you'll need to buy a pre-existing pattern ;)

>>7809301
She's right that it's not done for movement, that's a function of something else entirely. It serves the same purpose as the fitting dart in a raglan sleeve - the gathering is a dart equivalent to create fit over the deltoid, when the sleeve and shoulder are cut in a certain way. If you're doing a drop shoulder, then ease is unnecessary unless you want the look of a gathered sleeve. You could also do without the gathering stitch if you want to steam a wool into a delt shape.

Still learning.
(via youtube, blogs, sewing websites, & trial and error >>7795194)

What's the right way to add darts after the fact? Stitch, trim excess, press seam, and finish edges? (And is there any chance of not having visible side seams at the end?)

>>7812514
Use small stitches and put the darts an inch back from where the side seam usually would be, or detach the band from the skirt and take them both in and reattach. I would do the latter, but either way would work.

>>7812629
The skirt fabric wouldn't survive being picked and restitched. Not given my skill level, at least.

Does it matter whether I sew first or cut first?

>>7812629
>thank you
That, too ~

What about fabrics? I only have access to a Joannes. What are good fabrics to buy for clothes? I usually just go in and feel the fabric (It mostly feels the same after washing) for texture and transparency. I ended up with quilting fabric once which is a no-no apparently (why though, it seemed nice to me?).
Second, are there any go-to books? Something that has everything from the basics to the complex?
Lastly, what are good projects to start with? I don't want to try big dresses or anything and end up with a mess and a waste of fabric, but I would like to make something useful rather then just throwing it away. Or should I just get basic sheets (like one anon suggested) and throw out whatever I make?

Are there disadvantages to using patterns? I can't even imagine myself being able to create my own pattern, but can store bought ones only get you so far?

>>7799167
Nice set up, aside from that creepy ass doll head.

>>7813089

There's nothing wrong with starting from patterns, and you can learn to alter them as you go, whenever needed.
I do, however, highly recommend making a bodice block or sloper to your size. You can find many detailed tutorials online with a quick google search. Once you have a bodice block, it will be much easier to compare/adjust commercial patterns.

>>7813072
Quilting fabric is generally considred 'bad' because lots of quilting cotton is very thin (And bullshit 'not my nippon fashion' reasons, sometimes.)

There is a lot of quilting cotton out there that is very nice and thick and can be used very well for clothing purposes if it is lined properly.


I'd definitely reccommend that you look online at places like BugFabric and Fabric.com.

>>7812679
When in doubt baste, try on and then sew. You can't uncut fabric but you can always undo your basting and try again.

Little trick to basting (pic related) use a smooth nylon thread and instead of starting and ending with knots wrap the thread a few times around a pin on each end. Way less drama removing the whole thread when its slick and not tied down.

>>7813140
Wouldn't it be creepier if I made dolls without heads?

>>7813072

Joann's isn't terrible, if you know what to look for. Their Sew Classic series has great cotton sateen and twill, and the Kona Cotton in the quilting section is a great fabric to start with.
Many quilting fabrics are cheaply printed and slightly too thin, which is why they're discouraged, but they're not all terrible. If you see something that has good weight to it, and is a nice print (good colors, crisp/not fuzzy around the edges, etc), I'd personally just go for it. I've made quite a few pieces from high quality quilting cotton, but be warned that quality of cotton often runs $10~$15/yard.
Online, there are places like fabric.com, onlinefabricstore, and shabby fabrics. You can also scour etsy and ebay for sateen or pima cotton (thin, but very smooth -- used by many Lolita brands. Yuwa is a fabric manufacturer that often makes printed pima cotton). Oxford/English pinpoint cotton is also good.

As for projects, it's hard to give suggestions without knowing your goals. Are you into Lolita? Cosplay? General clothes? Basic gathered Lolita skirts are really easy, or you can pick up some simple clothing patterns to practice on. Most patterns state their difficulty on them. Vintage Vogue has some great sundress patterns that go together very easily, if that's your style.

>>7813072
Joann does get nice things in, it just depends what you are making. Their print quilting cotton (usually all along one wall) tends to be very thin. No only is it sheer, but it wrinkles very easily and the fibers break down quickly. So while it may feel very soft after washing, it's going to be limp too (won't look ironed a hour later or hold a neat pleat)

Books, I always recommend Reader's Digest New and Complete Guide to Sewing. It's great for beginners and teaching trickier techniques. You can usually find copies at used book stores, but if not, it's worth buying new. Used book stores are the best for finding sewing books, just hunt through the piles to find ones that address gaps in your knowledge.

PJ pants (flannel is cheap), simple knit shirts, basic pleated skirts. Make things with fabric you like and you will be more likely to take your time to ensure it turns out good.

>>7813089
Use patterns. Most professional shops do in some form or another. There's no reason to put in a bunch of extra work when someone else has done it for you (and likely to a higher standard). That said, don't be afraid to play with them too. Some pattern companies have blogs with tips on construction or alternate looks.

>>7813072
I don't like the idea of throwing out your practice pieces which is one of the reasons I suggest doing baby and doll clothes. Models are easy to come by (you can get full sized plastic babies, no need to make a real one) and they hardly ever complain. If you don't fancy what you've made you can almost always find someone happy to have it.

That being said, don't be afraid to start with patterns (look for anything labelled EZ, quik, simple, facile, etc.) On the back of the pattern envelope (and sometimes on the flap) will be a size chart, fabric, interfacing, notions, and lining requirements. Don't worry too much about fabric, just make sure that you're using a fabric that you like.

Inside the envelope will be a step by step guide (usually on one or two large sheets) that will detail how to go about putting it together. Follow it.

Lather, rinse and repeat. You can make the same pattern over and over if you like, or you can find slightly more complex ones and do those. As you get more comfortable you'll probably want to do larger projects.

>>7800573
>>7800676

Mmmm. I have a 27 and 127 both in Sphinx. It's a gorgeous decal.

I need help so desesperately... how in hell do you make corners with synthetic velvet?!

I'm making a petit coat with borders of other color (I'm always using the same fabric).
The petit coat lost its shape when I sew the borders, it folds inside and it loses its form.

>>7813283

...Explain or include photos on what you're making, because your post currently makes no fucking sense to me.

Are you making a coat/jacket, or a petticoat?

>>7813309
I said a petit coat.

yeah sorry, I tried to explained it better but I just don't know how. When I sew the borders the main fabric folds inside and the petit coat ends up looking like a turtle shell.

>>7813317
keep in mind that ita newbies call petticoats petit coats all the time for some reason so we genuinely aren't sure what you could mean here.

>>7813317

Yes. I read petit coat. The English word is petticoat if you're making the fluffy undergarment, and it makes no sense whatsoever to have velvet on a petticoat. And while a petticoat is tiered, it generally doesn't have corners. This is where the confusion is coming in.

>>7813322
I'm not lolita, just a random person who is learning to sew haha.
>>7813325
Oh, I was 100% sure that was 'petit', thanks for the correction!

I'm making an eskimo costume for my friend's daughter and I liked this fabric for it. I didn't know I would have this problem and now I'm struggling with this

>>7813354

Do you have pictures of the pattern/costume, and/or can you take some pictures of what you're working on, so we can see exactly what it's doing?

As a general note: I can understand using velvet for the main skirt portion, but a petticoat is an undergarment used to make the skirt flare out. To make sure it stays fluffy, it's best to make it out of organza or tulle.
I recommend this tutorial:
http://thisblogisnotforyou.com/petticoat_tutorial/

How do you all keep you sewing skills "sharp" so to speak. Like after you have made your costumes or clothes, what do you do in the mean time? Or is it like riding a bike and you never really forget?

>>7813379

You don't really forget the basics, but you might forget some more complicated techniques that you don't do often. In which case, I go back and revisit my books/tutorials/look at old garments that used that technique the next time that I want to do it.

I really like sewing, though, and I'm never "done" making clothes -- there's always something else I want to make.

>>7813375
Well, this is embarrasing... English is not my frist language (as you may have already figured it out) and I was (again) sure that "petit" coat was the name of those short coats that lolita uses (picture). And now I know it's just a regular cape.

>>7813389

Gotcha! That makes waaaaay more sense. Yes, that's a cape or capelet.

The best way to sew corners is to notch the seam allowance really well. Lining can also help, since it'll help structure the corners. If you're adding a border out of velvet, then look up tutorials on "Mitered corners."

>>7813379
Once I've managed to use a technique/skill effectively it's hard for me to forget it. Occasionally like other anon I'll go back to tutorials and old garments for a visual refresher or to see what went right and wrong, but I usually retain the knowledge of 'how'.

>>7813387
>>7813404
I just don't know how often I'll be making clothes. If I do it everyday 25/7 I'll overflow my house! Like one anon mentioned though, baby clothes is a good idea. You can always make them just to keep fresh and then sell them or even donate them (assuming they are good quality). It wouldn't be too expensive either since babies are small.

Another concern of mine is a little embarrassing. How do you know if you made a quality garment? Like I'll look back on things that I was super proud of and it's all wonky looking or bad fabric etc. I don't want to go out in something I think looks good when in reality it looks awful.

>>7813255
Good idea for basting.

>>7813379
I go for months without sewing sometimes. You don't really forget, as you just get out of practice. It's usually best to pick some quick easy project to start back up on if you've been away, just like you'd go for a short bike ride if you haven't been one one all winter.

>>7813397
Another trick instead of clipping individual notches along a curved seam. Use pinking shears, they're fast and consistent for notching rounded edges.

>>7813236
I think we should clear up the terms sloper and block.

Sloper is a pattern piece with the seam allowance completely removed. Slopers were made and used primarily by itinerant seamstresses up until the 1850s. Now they are pretty much only employed in fashion schools as a learning device.

Block is a pattern or pattern piece that is favored by a seamer or tailor, which is the foundation of multiple similar garments (think building block)

Third completely random term I'm going to throw in is a buck, a buck is a finished piece that is used to measure patterns and garments against for fit and ease for one person. It's only purpose is quality control, it's not used for patterning at all.

>>7813419
What I like with doll clothes is that you can make a little (literally) catalog of your development, you can practice with small amounts of fabrics and trims you might not be able to afford for fullsized garment otherwise, and you can work on mastering hand techniques that you would never ever do fullsized (I know it sounds like something that originated on /b/ but faggoting is something everyone should try to do at least once as a nice decorative join.)

>>7813957
>faggoting
Just looked that up, it looks so pretty, wow!

>>7813957
How much harder is it since the garments are so small? Is machine sewing still pretty feasible? I am thinking more like american girl doll size, not barbie.

>>7814120
There's not a huge difference at the basic level, AGs are 1/4 scale (to a 9-10 girl, not a woman) and there are a lot of 18" doll patterns available. You can pick up a trashed doll from the thrift store or eBay to use as a dress form, or you can make one yourself if you fancy teaching yourself how to do fittings and alterations.

>>7813089
I can think of a few reasons
-fitting issues that necessitate basically redrafting all the pieces, e.g. very extreme curves (like being outside a normal large cup adjustment fitting range), scoliosis, asymmetry etc. because you may as well learn to draft your own patterns at that point.
-wanting to go into selling clothes/manufacturing (home pattern seam allowances and techniques are basically all wrong for that)
-wanting to do really interesting pattern things that basically require draping to create the pattern

>>7813397
Thank you! And thanks for the patience haha :)
>>7813843
I didn't know those pinking shears, I'll look up for them, thanks!