/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

I don't know a thing about sewing, but what would you guys use for thick, stiff renaissance era jackets / gambesons: wool, brushed fleece, some poly blend?

>>7728868
For accuracy you'd use wool, but for convenience I'd go with a poly blend.

How is my Flat Felled Seam?

>>7729023
It's ok for a first try, but the line of your stitches needs to be straighter. Especially with white thread that is really going to stand out against the brown.

>>7729045
Thanks.

I was just practicing using scrap.

Here's attempt 2.

>>7728887
This. The poly blends are easier to care for.

>>7729080
Much better. Keep at it. May I ask what kind of thread you're using?

>>7729123
I'm not sure.

It's all just random stuff I've found.

I believe the thread came from a cheap sewing kit I bought at a student store while college was still in session.

>>7729080
Go very slowly. You can start rushing once you're better.

>>7729171
Thanks.

Last attempt.

The threads usually end up looking like that with a few loose stitches.

How do I fix that? Should I increase tension?

>>7729191

>>7729191
Regarding loose stitches
There are 3 possibilities.
1) Tension is indeed off.
2) Could be that your machine can't handle the thicker material and is not dipping the needle at exactly the right time, or not getting deep enough into the bottom bobbin well, and almost skipping the stitch.
3) You are not using the right needle for the fabric you are sewing on so you will see results as if #2 were the problem, but you can correct it cheaply by just getting a finer needle.

>>7729208
They don't consistently show. It just happens once or twice and always on the row of thread corresponding to the thread in the spindle (I had put 2 different colored threads in the machine).

>>7729208
They don't consistently show. It just happens once or twice and always on the row of thread corresponding to the thread in the bobbin (I had put 2 different colored threads in the machine).

>>7711659

What type of fabric would you reccommend for the main part of that vest? Something that won't look cheap I guess. Also would that be gold stitching on the collar or something else?

Also patterns, been looking around for double breasted vests for women but everything has too err... feminine (?) a cut. The mens' patterns are on the money but would probably not be great fits without altering them. Advice?

>>7728887
>>7729115
Thank you. :) How different do they look from three feet or more away? It's summer, so I can't find any wool at Joann's stores near me.

>>7729567
The texture when you feel it may be a little different, but it will look the same from a distance.

>>7729280
White suiting material. Wool blend suiting would be ideal. A poly crepe wouldn't be bad, as long as you line is well, and use light interfacing to give it added structure. Bengaline isn't bad. JoAnn's has a lot of suiting options, especially in their SewClassics line. If you go for their wool suiting, a coupon goes a long way.

Vogue used to have some great vest patterns in their suit section, but it looks like they've been discontinued. I draft my own patterns, but if I were you, I would buy one men's pattern that's like what you want and one women's pattern that you can use as a reference for altering the shape.

>>7729234
Not this anon >>7729208
but they're right. just make sure you have the right needle for the fabric you're working with. Use something more heavy duty if you need it. Also check tension/make sure the machine is threaded properly too. The skipping/looping will happen. Basically, if i get that when i'm using a practice scrap, it's my machine's way of telling me something's wrong.

Hey /cgl/, what sewing machine would you recommend for a first-timer? I've sewn before, just never with a machine.

>>7730089

Do not go for the cheap Singers. Do not go for super cheap anything. Go to some sewing machine dealers and test drive machines on a few different brands if you can.

I'm biased towards Berninas because they are amazing and last forever, but they're expensive as hell. Look for used ones if you go that route, or ask the dealers about financing deals (you can regularly get 2-4 years no interest). The 1130 is an older model from the 80s, but is a ridiculously sturdy machine that can do almost anything you could ask for. Other great options are Husqavarna, Pfaff, and Janome.

>>7730142
I bought a bernina following your advice bernina anon and I thank you dearly. It's amazing. So much better than mu singer.

I love my bernette palermo.

>>7730150

You are very welcome! Bernina!Anon is here to help.

>>7728494

Matte milliskin is actually quite nice. Just don't get the shiny milliskin. See if you can get swatches or find some in a store and test the amount of stretch and feel of them.

You'll need ball point needles, and you should be very careful not to pull the fabric while sewing. Let the feed dogs do all of the fabric feeding. Check your manual to see if your machine lets you change the pressure of the presser foot. Too much pressure can force your fabric to stretch, and it should feed smoothly under the foot.
You can also use a walking foot or a dual feed foot.

Other general tips:
Use a zig zag stitch where you want to have stretching (such as the neckline, etc)
Basting works better than pinning
If you can't adjust the pressure of the presser foot or if your feed dogs aren't quite gripping the fabric, you can trick it by putting a layer of tissue paper under the fabric and sewing it with the fabric. Just rip if off when the seam is done.

>>7730142
>>7730150
Question op here, thank you so much!

So my sewing machine (a singer, not sure which model) starts normally, but gradually slows down to a crawl. Doesn't seem to matter what I'm using it on, and the motor doesn't sound like it's straining. It's like I'm just lowering pressure on the pedal, but I've got the thing all the way to the floor.

This started very suddenly, I was trying to stitch my pants back together and it started slowing down.

Pic related, my sewing machine, sans cord.

>>7730563
could be that your foot pedal is dying. If it is a plastic foot control they tend to crap out pretty often (I went through 3 before I replaced mine with a metal control) They are usually pretty cheap to replace. Start there and if that doesn't work take it in to be serviced as it is something internal.

>>7730593
Yeah, it's a plastic one. It's pretty old, so I'll see if I can find a replacement.

>>7730600
If you can't find a replacement, some sewing repair shops can splice the cords onto a new foot control. If that's what you end up doing, I'd ask for them to do it to a metal one. It's what I ended up doing when I was sick of my plastic ones breaking.

>>7730204
Thanks, anon. I have a Husqvarna Viking machine so it's got a lot of options on it, I'm sure I can noodle around with it. I'm going to order like three yards of fabric even though I only need one, just in case.

I'm now trying to make a "sleeve" close with a flat-felled seam.

Pic related is as far as I've gotten. I can't figure out how to make the second stitch parallel to that one to make the seam flat.

How do I do it? It's certainly possible since I've seen many denim garments with such seams on legs and sleeves.

>>7730934
If i were you I'd use some chalk and a ruler to draw the line before you sew. It looks like your first seams aren't perfectly straight which is causing at least part of the problem. alternatively you can use your presser foot as a guide to keep it parallel.

>>7729080
Better than the first one, but go slowly so you don't lose control. I use pins to help me keep my lines straight by making a straight row next to the foot while I sew, so, you could try that and see if it can help.

>>7730934
take a closer look at a pair of jeans. only the outside leg seam is usually a flat fell. the inside one is often a regular ol' seam. they do the outside one first. ;)

>>7731830
Actually the out seam in a pair of jeans is not usually flat felled, it is the in-seam that is flat felled to reinforce one of the most wear-and-tear parts of the garment, your crotch. But you are correct that only one seam is flat felled. Also in garment factories that specifically work on denim they have specialized flat fell machines that do this work in one single step.

>>7730934
As>>7731830 said, jeans have 2 seams, and only one of them is usually felled. Both could be done, but it would require specialized equipment. You may be able to do a short sleeve, depends on how crafty you are at manipulating fabric under the foot.

I hate this machine, nothing but trouble since I bought it and now it wont even do a basic straight stitch. Any advice for buying a new one while being piss broke?

>>7731784
I was just practicing from scrap. That one was just joining together many bad attempts.

>>7731830
>>7731893
>>7731890
I came up with this instead:
>Stitch first line like normal after first fold
>Stich along fold's edge
>Use fabric glue to hold flap down.

Could this work? Of course it doesn't have the structural support of a real flat-felled seam but it at least looks the part.

>>7731959
>fabric glue

please don't

>>7731961
What's wrong with that?

>>7731959
Are you attempting this for looks alone or....? If you are doing it for looks, I'm sure I can come up with a better way to accomplish the look without sacrificing quality (i.e. glue). Also why not do a 2 piece sleeve? If this is on a single seam sleeve I'm not really sure why all the effort for a flat fell seam if it is a single seamed sleeve anyways, you won't be able to see it much as it is on the inside towards the body usually.

>>7731974
I'm trying to reproduce seams commonly found on military garments, like pic related. They're perfectly flat on the inside as well as outside.

Flat felled seams have to be the most common ones I've encountered.

I suppose the glue would be good if it's just for looks, but what method do you suggest?

>>7731982
You know, after all the questions you've asked about buying, and even though you're having troubles, I'm glad to see someone stepping up and learning to sew here. Mostly people just whine that it's too hard and people should make things for them.

>>7731982
Ah it is a two piece sleeve though. Felling the first one should be easy. The second one though.... I will have to think on the best way to accomplish that. Also you will never be able to perfectly reproduce the same finish as that garment as they have a special flat felling machine in factories... you can see the arm is narrow and allows for the sleeve to be pulled through unlike a standard home machine. This is just one of those things, but I'll try to think of a good substitute.

>>7731982
>>7732005

I got curious about this (and also very impressed by OP slogging onwards) and went googling for answers.


Option 1:
Someone asked that question here and received the answer to scrunch up the sleeve as they sew (something like sewing at the bottom of a bucket that gets more crowded as you sew)
http://kelly.hogaboom.org/2013/11/flannel-shirt-sew-a-long-flat-felled-seams-side-seams-and-narrow-hem/

There's a photo here where someone is making a flannel shirt:
http://grainlinestudio.com/2013/04/11/archer-sew-along-day-10-sleeves-and-side-seams/

The very last image shows the seam being sewn from hem to sleeve, photo is just before the sleeve begins. I'm going to guess it gets awfully crowded after that, but the next blog post shows a nicely constructed flannel shirt with felled seams, so I guess the person sewing it make it all the way to the end of the sleeves okay.

Option 2:

An alternative is to make the outside flat felled and the inside a normal seam, as per this person's jeans:
http://www.denimbro.com/how-to-make-a-pair-of-jeans-the-really-slow-way_topic590.html
- on a commercial pair of jeans both seams would be flat felled but here you can see the inner seam (takes more stress I guess) is flat felled but the outer one is not.

Option 3:
You can do a French seam with the tube of fabric on the outside, then stitch that down by hand. It will give you the impression of a flat felled seam. It's at least as strong as a normal seam, but handstiching it down can get a bit tedious.

>>7731955
I fear you are bound to shitty chinese machine anon.

However, if you have 200+$ maybe could you find a good used machine on E-bay.

Bernina is a goo brand.

>>7730780
Diff anon, but if you're sewing with swimsuit fabric you'll need to look into the specific kinds of thread used on swimsuit and lingerie. It is called 'wooly nylon' and it stretches. I've only used it in a serger though, so not sure how it works with a sewing machine.

>>7732023
I agree with the scrunching option, but anon seems to already have trouble sewing straight, and scrunching would add to the difficulty especially if the fabric was heavy. I would sew the narrow (wrist) end first and work my way out to the wider end, it would provide the most room and least difficulty.

>>7730142
Awesome, yet another Bernina fan for the Swiss cause. I'm usually the one recommending them in the machine threads since I used to sell them. They really are a dream, though people get thrown off by the prices, so I always recommend used older models. Can't really go wrong there! I don't recommend Pfaff or Viking these days because of the Singer/Pfaff/Viking buy out and conglomeration into the SVP corporation, but older machines of any of those brands are still good machines. Usually pre... 2000 I would say for any of them.

>>7732029

We're talking about sewing the second seamline on a sleeve that's already enclosed, right? So basically as he sews along the sleeve will form mounds of fabric up and around his sewing aread since it's already sewn into a cylinder, right? If the cylinder's opening is really narrow (ie- the cuffs), then he's not going to have much space to maouver as the fabric mounds up. If the cylinder's opening is bigger (ie start sewing from the shoulder end) then the opening will be bigger for him to manouver the sewing machine.

If he's having a lot of problems sewing down to the cuffs then I'd suggest doing the second or third option. The seams can be double stitched if the strength is really a concern, and a missing line of stitching is going to look better than a crooked line of stitching.

Every time I try making ruffles or gathering using my sewing machine, I fail miserably.

I set my machine on the longest stitch, I sew 2 lines, but when I try to pull on the thread to gather the fabric it doesn't work.

What am I doing wrong. Basting the ruffles by hand is such a waste of time.

>>7732039

I have this issue too. I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, if my machine's tension just can't be adjusted that far since it's a cheap featherweight, or if my thread isn't so good since it's also cheap short fibre poly stuff.

Anyway, if you know how to make shirring with elastic thread, you can try making ruffles that way instead -- sew with shirring elastic in the bobbin as if you're shirring the top of the ruffle. Then pin the ruffle to the dress/skirt without pulling so the ruffles remain gathered by the shirring elastic, sew it down, then either cut off the shirred portion or unpick it out.

>>7732041
It sounds interesting.

I was actually wondering how shirring was made.

I'll try on a left over fabric.

Thank you anon.

>>7732039
>>7732041
are you pulling both threads? You should only be pulling the top thread, and you'll need to pull the top thread out of the bottom's loop before you begin. Also I find it's easiest to do it in small sections.

>>7732053
Thank you. I'll try again.

Coold loosening the thread tension help a bit ?

>>7732059
well in the normal 2 line method, you shouldn't have to loosen the tension. Your length should be set at 5mm. However, my teacher had her own method which was three lines at 3.5mm length and 3.5 tension, which is a better gather. here's a sample piece from that class, so you can see the difference. Yeah I'm not that good at it either heh, but you can see that the gather is much nicer with the three line method.

Honestly I should just either type up or scan all her pages from the class because it's great info. And you have to wiggle the cloth between the stitching. Actually, You need to hold both threads, sorry, but you need to make sure they are not looped together, so pick out the top thread from the bobbin loop before holding it and wiggling the fabric into the gather.

>>7732069
>>7732059
UGH sorry I have a ruffler so I haven't hand gathered in a while. You have to hold either all the top OR all the bottom, Not both. I'm dumb, sorry for the confusion.

>>7732053
>>7732069

I'm >7732041

The method I read was that the tension on the bobbin (lower thread) should be set to really loose, that way the top thread sits on top of the fabric while the bottom thread forms loops around it, that is how one is able to pull it to gather it (if successful) I've never been able to get it to do the loopy thing, and when I pull the top threads, it tends to break (which is why I mentioned that I usually use cheap poly thread, it might be just the thread that's prone to breaking, I guess).

What threads should I be holding? If you can type up the notes, that would be a great help indeed.

>>7732074
let me see if I can find my binder

>>7732074
I just do it on normal tension with the longest stitch setting. If you have too many layers or your fabric is heavy that could be why the threads are breaking. Netting will also murder the hell out of your thread and make it break. If you're having trouble try using hand quilting thread, and instead of one massively long line of gathering, sew lots of 12" lengths of the gathering stitches end to end so if your thread breaks you only have to redo a small section. If you're still having trouble or your fabric is really thick, you may need to do your gathering by hand with upholstery thread (look for tutorials on cartridge pleating)

>>7732074
>>7732074
Ok here goes:

1. Set stitch length between 4mm and 5mm
2. Sew one row of stitching on the seam line from the /right side/ of the fabric (italics //) . Do not cross the seams. Begin and end the stitch on either side of the seam
3. Using the presser foot as a guide (aprox 5/16" away from first row) sew the second row in the seam allowance.
4/ Pull the bobbin thread from the wrong side of the fabric to gather the fabric to the appropriate size. Securing gather in place by pulling the top thread to the wrong side of the fabric and tying off the ends.
5. When attaching the gathered piece, sew from the gather side. Do not remove the gathering stitches.

I don't suppose that anybody knows a 'trick' to measuring out box pleats?

>>7732083
Gathering Method II

1. Set stitch length between 3mm and 4mm. Slightly decrease top tension (we used 3.5).

all other instructions are the same except after step three you sew a third line between the two

>>7732083
>>7732087
ugh looking through this binder I am reminded of the horrors of learning hong kong finishes

>>7732080
>>7732083
>>7732087

Okay, the two things I did differently was to mess with the bobbin tension, and to pull the top thread instead of the bottom one. I might try it again the other way around, with a better thread and thinner fabric.

Thanks for sharing your methods, anon.


>>7732089

Isn't this the method where you finish the raw edges after doing the seams?

>>7732086
Do math and measure carefully? The general rule is that a pleated skirt uses a piece of fabric three times as long as the waistband, but it usually takes a tiny bit more because you lose some length to the folds - usually on thicker fabrics. If you're trying to figure out how many pleats, you either divide the length of the waist by how wide you want the pleats to be, so a 30" waist would need 15 pleats 2" wide and just over 90" length of fabric. If you know how many pleats you want, then you divide the waist by that number to get the width of the pleats: a 30" waist with 20 pleats would need the pleats to be 1.5" wide and still take just over 90" of fabric. To find how much fabric in each pleat, multiply the finished width of the pleat by 3.

Once you've mathed hard, it's just a case of measuring and lots of pins. You want to make sure the folds underneath align in the middle of each pleat, so usually you'll get 3 pins per pleat: one marking the middle, one holding each fold. If you want them pressed in, it is often easier to iron as you go, but your picture doesn't show that.

>>7732093
yeah it's basically a normal seam and seam allowance (5/8th) and you use a bias cut fabric to wrap around the edges of the seam allowance. But you have to stitch in the ditch for it to look even remotely nice. It's used as an alternative to lining a jacket, so that it still looks interesting and finished inside. It's a pain to do it even remotely well. At least it was for me.

>>7731959
If you just want the look of a flat-felled (at least from the outside) is to simple serge the seams together, press to the side and top stitch. This is what happens with a lot of RTW jeans. If you're having trouble with layers, I would suggest picking up a top stitching needle.

>>7732094
notching the fabric helps too.

>>7732095
so for this first year binder I've got mock felled, flat felled, french, hong kong, turned edges, a variety of darts, gathers, easing, center zip and lapped zip, and a bit of a blouse build in here. Not sure if anyone is interested. This was from when I took classes from a master tailor. But quite a bit is lost without watching her and listening as she does the methods. But I can type some of it up if anyone is interested. The blouse is pretty wordy though heh.

>>7732095

Ah, I thought you were referring to just serging/zigzag stitching the raw edges after seaming. Yeah, finishing things nicely with bias tape in general is a pain, there's so little margin for where to put the needle down.


>>7732099

I think the issue is that he's topstitching along the side of a sleeve, so the problem was how to topstitch it without accidentally sewing one side of the sleeve to the other side, if that makes sense.

>>7732094
Ah, thanks! This is seriously the only explanation I've found that made any sense.

>>7732025
That sounds like a good option, thanks anon

does anyone have a complete idiot's guide to stitch tension on a (n inherited Singer) sewing machine on hand, if it's not too much trouble? or a troubleshooting guide that has photos?

When is it okay to not cut your patterns on the bias? I'm making a strapless bodice that needs to give me support and I'm afraid the give will throw off the entire sizing.

>>7732089
What are Hong Kong finishes ?

Hello everyone, I have a question for a hand sewn project. I'm making a canvas bag, and my cheap sewing machine can't handle the material. Do you have any guidance on sewing pockets onto the bag, sewing on closures (can I do zippers by hand?), and where to begin?
I have drafted patterns before, and this has no deadline so I have no limit on time. I haven't hand sewn much other than repairs before, though.

>>7732256
You sew a normal seam and then wrap the unfinished edges with a bias cut fabric, silk is usually the best, and then you sew it on, wrap it to the back, then stitch in the ditch to anchor it.

The finished product will look like pic. The right side is done perfectly, but you can see where they didn't stitch in the ditch perfectly on the left and caught some of the fabric. A good example of why they are so frustrating to do. Stitching in the ditch takes a lot of practice, you have to sew it close enough to the fold to not leave any fabric showing between the stitch and the bias fabric but not too far over that it catches the fabric. It's been a long time since I've done one. It's used instead of a lining inside jackets mostly, so that the inside looks finished but not lined.

>>7732296
Here's an even better example. They stitched that ditch so hard the stitch is hidden by the slight curve of the bias fabric lol.

>>7732296
How does it look on the other side. The stitch are into the bias tape, right ?

First time post on /cgl/. I'm thinking about doing Nekros from the game Warframe (pic related). The material reminds me of leather, but in a skintight suit, I fear leather won't be breathable enough. Any material suggestions?

I might go so far as to ask about different materials for, say, the leg and shoulder rings as well as the body, but I'll take whatever suggestions I can get.

>>7732235

I'm assuming you want to cut on the bias because of the fabric print? You could cut the pattern, hang it and let it stretch for 24 hours, re-measure and cut it again (if it has stretched out).

Then, when making your dress, back your bias-cut fabric with another non-bias cut fabric. This combination of bias- and non-bias-cut fabric should be able to give you the stability you want, pre-stretching it should minimise any distortion when sewing the bias cut fabric to non bias cut fabric.

Fabric is much more drapey on bias, with a little bit of stretch to it that allows the cut edges to be distorted easily (that's how a straight piece of bias tape can be used to bind curved edges). Because it distorts easily, it's not a good idea to construct a strapless dress entirely out of bias-cut pieces. That's also the reason it should be hung up for 24 hours, sometimes you'll find that the threads have kind of stretched out downwards and the pattern you cut out is now longer.
>>7732281

There's no difference in construction, just that instead of zigzag-stitching to finish the raw edges, you can use blanket stitch, and instead of sewing straight stitches with the sewing machine, you use back stitch when hand sewing. If you don't know how back stitch and blanket stitch are done, go google it.

Another stitch you may want to look up is slip stitch (for hemming), it's used to make hems where the stitching is nearly invisible on the right side. You might be able to use it to hem the top of the bag if your back stitch is uneven or ugly.

Last note -- if the fabric is much too thick for your sewing machine, you may want to pick up a thimble to help you push the needle through the fabric, maybe even pliers to pull the needle from the other side.

>>7732451
Thank you so much on informing me about the bias. I've only ever learned to sew on the bias for all my garments without really understanding why.

>>7732039
I use this method for ruffles where the seam isn't going to show: http://www.happytogetherbyjess.com/2012/05/how-to-make-ruffle-zig-zag-style.html

She does it with a regular piece of thread, but I usually use crochet thread or something similar to minimize breakage. Once the piece is ruffled, I machine-baste it so the ruffles stay, then just pull out the crochet thread.

>>7732451
Thanks so much! I hadn't considered a blanket stitch. I already had a thimble, I'll have to dig up pliers!

>>7732023
>>7732005
I received the pants that went with the jacket shown >>7731982 today.

Looks like the outer seams really are not flat felled seams.

Both the garments were made in the same country. Looks like the factory that made the jacket had a special machine while the one that made the pants didn't.

>>7732324
Yup, the stitching is just on the bias tape and the seam allowance. It looks like a regular seam on the "right" side

Can anybody give me tips on how to sew the gold trim on? There seems to be three types: on edge, on seam, and on neither (shoulders & sleeves). On top of that it is entirely knit fabric. I have some ideas but I wanted to see if there are better ways.

>>7733640

Why on earth would you make that out of knit fabric?

>>7728868
Are you using it for lapping or combat? Or
just wearing indoors or in the winter? If the first then use all natural materials lest you die of heat exhaustion. If not then use what you like.

>>7734167
I meant larping

>>7730061
Thanks heaps

What do you guys think of the ikea sy sewing machine? I've read a few nice reviews but wanted to know if any of you have used it. I was the anon who made a sewing thread about a month ago having issues with my singer sewmate. I know a handful of you guys (and other people I know IRL) have recommended older Bernina's but someone just told me about this sy machine and I'm wondering if I should use that to hold me over for a bit, since I'm still a novice.

Is there a pattern looking like this pseudo-medieval dress somewhere ?

>>7735558
oops dropped my pic.

>>7735478
Looking at pic, the bobin mechanism looks like my shitty singer one. I'm not too optimistic anon.

>>7735560
Maybe this one? http://www.simplicity.com/p-9579-misses-costumes.aspx

I think Simplicity has a couple other ones, and I'm sure Burda/Mccall/Butterick have their own too. Also check the "Out of Print" sections, a lot of times they have good stuff hidden in there.

>>7735586
thank you. It's exactly what I'm after.

Just a question though. Are the seam allowances comprised in the pattern ?

>>7735646
typically they are but you won't know that until you open it. It will say on the pattern whether or not seam allowance is included and how much

How warm is chiffon fabric? I'm guessing it's not very warm but more of a cool fabric? I have never owned anything with chiffon / made anything with chiffon so I'm unsure whether to use it for a future project or not.

>>7735646
Yes, and usually they're 5/8"
Commercial patterns come with instructions.

>>7736306
It's semi-sheer, it's not going to keep you warm at all. People like chiffon because it's floaty, so don't use it for anything structured.

>>7736379
Thank you!

>>7735568
I know from the pictures it looks questionable. That's why I'm asking if anyone hear has had actual experience. Like I said in my post, I read some positive reviews, but I also want to know what other people here think, if they've *actually* used it.

I'm planning to make Jotaro Kujo from JoJo but I'm having trouble to figure out the patterns for his costume...

I know he has a long-length gakuran uniform, but I can't find any pattern for it. One thing I'm really confused it that I'm doing it from this figure design, and his jacket is really tight from upper body and then gets kinda "normal" after his hips. Also, how can I achieve those spiky parts at the end of it's pants... sorry for the small image size.

Just saw this thread and wanted to add something for y'all.

I'm really good at making/modifying patterns. If you have questions regarding how to get starting on a certain kind of clothing or coat I can sketch out a pattern for you to work with.

On another note, I need some help with fabric choices. I want to make a professional suit, like for a career job. I know how to do it, but I haven't the slightest clue what kind of fabric to use. Any ideas? I am also wanting to make Hei's jacket from Darker Than Black for regular use. Again, I know full well how to do it, just needing input on what type of fabric and interfacing to use. Any anons can help? Or need help from me with patterns?

>>7738512
Jotaro guy here, maybe you could help me out with the patterns? :)

For the suit (if you mean the school uniform one) it's usually made out of wool.

>>7738525
I'm talking about a non-cosplay suit. Like an expensive, professionally tailered suit for business/corporate use. I know how to make them, but I'm unsure what fabric to use.
Can you post a pic of the Jotaro cosplay you're wanting to make?

>>7738530
Most of professionally tailored suits are made of wool, or for like more casual suits, tweed and some others. If you ask for an suit fabric in a fabric store, they can help you out.

Sure, here's another one which shows a little more clearly. I'm putting my design on these two pictures I posted.

>>7738542
Yeah, it looks like merino super wool fabric is THE thing to use for suits after some mild to moderate research. Too bad it's so goddamn expensive. I guess that's what you get for quality though. I'll make a few suits out of some cheaper fabric for my family and friends and then when I get really good at it start going into business with it.

I'll start a small pattern outline for your character's coat. The hat I'll have to come back to. For the pants your best bet is the order a pattern for it online. I got a pants pattern w/pockets online for like $10. It's so complicated if you want pockets but so worth it in quality. That's a pretty freakin' awesome character to cosplay, though. Give me about 30 min or so to draw out a small pattern and I'll post a pic, anon.

>>7738549
Thank you so much, kind anon! ;w;

>>7738551
Alright, it's a really rough sketch and my camera is shit, but it's enough get you started.

You'll need some blue and off white fabric, about 3 yards of each. I recommend some kind of rayon challis or something since this is for the jacket. Start off by measuring front the back of your neck (like your C5 vertabrae) to as far down as your jacket will go (below knee length?) This is how long the back cut of fabric should be. Back cut of fabric should be cut on the fold of the fabric. You can adjust the width at the bottom for how much flow you want the jacket to have as you move (since it appears to be a little like a cape and flow). It also depends on what type of fabric you use as to how it drapes and flows. Animes aren't exactly friendly on the whole what kind of fabric to use since the bottom seems to flow/drape a lot and the top is more rigid and form-fitting like a uniform. You may be able to add some kind of interfacing to just the torso and shoulder area of a more flowing fabric to achieve this though. Cut two of the front fabric as well, one for left and one for right. Collar needs only one cut. Stitch together the side seams of the two fronts so they join with the back (and don't accidentally stitch the armhole closed LOL). Also stitch the part of the shoulders together. Make sure you don't have like an extra inch or so extra on one side by measuring out the length from your side neck area to where your shoulder starts and use that when cutting the fabric so it's the same length and they meet together decently. Stitch in the collar making sure it's long enough and wide enough to actually look like a collar but not meet the exact length with the front piece (collar should be roughly 1-2 inch shorter than front on both sides to match what you want it to look like). Add extra interfacing for collar area, that shit looks stiff. Cut out of white fabric and stitch lining just like you have followed these instructions so far.
[Continued]

>>7738603
[Continued]
Stitch lining to blue fabric at side/front edges and shoulder area with RIGHT sides together. Also stitch bottom together. Leave the armholes open. Now open out the fabric/pull it through the armholes so it looks more like it's supposed to. Feel free to overstitch outside seams for a better look in blue thread. On the sleeves....stitch together the sides of the sleeves, right side to right side, and then the ends where your hand comes out, right side to right side, and then flip fabric out so it looks like it's supposed to. Very carefully pin together the sleeve to the jacket (you'll be working on the inside of the jacket area for this) and stitch the two together, joining the sleeve to the armhole. Hopefully you didn't screw yourself over and make the armholes way too small. If you did, just work with it if you can and try not to cry as the sleeves inevitably pucker and lap over in places as you sew. Ithappens.jpeg. Finish the collar area. Add buttons and trimmings. Viola! A hopefully well made jacket! You can get by the purpley shirt and blue pants with just a purpley shirt at Wal-mart/clothing store and some good jeans for the blue pants! On the hat, that's a whole nother story for a whole nother day with lots of interfacing.
>Pic related, I finished a Mario hat this morning and just felt like sharing it with you.

>>7738628
Thank you so much! For the fabric, in the anime he says it's 100% wool, so I'll be using that. I might make a few changes here and there if needed but this is really helpful, luckily I can ask help from my friend for hiding the seams etc. Thanks once more!!

I'm making my own custom fumo. How difficult would it be to dye the eyes a dark brown? Any good techniques?

>>7738646
Any time. Go have fun with it now.

Today I'm going to get a lot done! Wish me luck!

>>7738512
for the suit, use a suiting wool. they are generally their own type of fabric. they are good for tailoring.

>>7738652
screen print it on or apply it as an iron-on. If you're handy enough, make the eyes out of another piece of fabric and applique them on. dying is absolutely not the way to go here.

>>7732086
I ended up using wider pleats to make it a bit more 'elegant.'

>tfw I'm only posting this here because I don't have any friends to show it off to. ;~;

>>7739608
I think it's pretty.

Would have gone with a narrower sheer ruffle though.

>>7739608
That's gorgeous, anon. I personally like the longer sheer ruffle, it gives it a more elegant flounce, a shorter one would have looked childish or stumpy on that style of skirt (imo).

>>7739608
that's pretty, I love it!

>>7739608
I want that fabric......

>>7739608
that is amazing!

>>7739608
I was a little skeptical when I saw the first picture, but it turn out great! Good job, anon, looks wonderful.

>>7748192
turned