/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

I have this. I never had much of a problem with it.

What are you trying to sew? Are you using a pattern? You can watch some videos. Theres a lot if you need in-action tutorial

Here are some links to help start
http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/p/learn-to-sew.html

And specifically for cosplay
http://cosplaytutorial.com/list.php#sewing

35$ for a sewing machine is like...nothing. Did you get it?

Somewhat related, what are some good lolita/cosplay sewing blogs to follow? Most I've found are not active anymore.

35$ for a brother machine is a good price.

>>7540719
No, but it should still be there next week.

I wasn't sure if there was anything wrong with it because, as you said, the price was a little low.

There was another machine over there that looked like this for $50 and it was functioning.

Didn't buy that either since it was huge and heavy, not to mention would be more complext to use than a more modern machine.

A great beginner machine

(Husqvarna Viking Emerald 116)

>>7540717
I'd like to see together a jacket and hat out of cotton twill. I believe it's the medium weight stuff, not heavy denim like jeans.

It's to test a sewing pattern I've made.

Oh good, a sewing thread. I have a question.
So I'm still a beginner at sewing, but I always have the issue of my fabric sliding..as in, I could line the two fabrics up perfectly, but once i start sewing, the bottom fabric ends up somehow being longer and then it kind hangs off? How do I prevent this from happening?
I have a Kenmore limited edition 17 stitch machine. Pic related, my machine.

>>7540719
I really like phaeburri on tumblr

>>7540739
Try pinning your fabric with the pins horizontal to the edge, that way you can sew with the pins still in place and it should help with preventing the sliding that you are experiencing. Just keep an eye on the needle or else it can hit one of the pins and the pin and needle can break or bend.

>>7540739
Try adjusting the presser foot to more loose. If it's pressing too hard it can cause that effect. Certain fabrics tend to do that, I usually hold the fabric both in front and back and go slowly, so it's set straight and won't move too much.

Has anyone here used otome no sewing? I'm confused because the pattern pieces foldout doesn't seem to include all the pieces in a given pattern. The other pieces it doesn't have are just rectangles, so are we supposed to draft these ourselves? Am I missing something? This is the first time I'm trying to use it for real. I know 1 year of Japanese and that's been invaluable but it's still pretty difficult because the japanese sewing term pdf's don't have a lot of the stuff I'm finding. In particular I'm trying to figure out what 'eye of the earth' refers to, thats what google translated something as.

>>7540739
that's what pins are for girl. pin your two pattern pieces together to keep them in place while you sew. you can pin them parallel to the edge of the fabric and take them out as you sew, or pin them horizontally and sew over them. Keep in mind sewing over them runs a small risk of breaking your needle, but it's so much easier it's worth it in my opinion.

>>7540730
It's gorgeous

>>7540749
I do pin my stuff down though, and the spaces between the pins end up lumping while the bottom tries to stretch itself.
>>7540750
Alright, I'll try that! Thank you anon

>>7540756
What kind of fabric are you using, Anon? Knit (stretchy) fabrics have given me some trouble before, but using a new (sharp) needle solved it for me.

>>7540756
It's hard to explain this when I can't show it to you, but when you stretch the fabric a little before stitching that part you get rid of the lumps. It can be lumpy after you're done but then you just iron the seams once you are done with them.

>>7540760
Well it happens with various fabrics, even ones that have non-stretch. It happens every time I sew, even if I pin.

Mmmm, sweet, sweet sewing thread. I've been waiting for you.

Anyway I was wondering, my machine is 10 years old and has never been serviced. Is this asking for trouble? I've been having trouble getting it to wind the bobbin well (it makes this horrible, bumpy, uneven mess on the spool) and I can't tell if it's me or if it's the machine being untuned.

>>7540762
How wide stitch you tend to use? If it's extremely small you get more lumps.

>Never used a big machine before
>Try threading it using the instructions
>Try sewing
>Just puts holes in my fabric
I WANNA SEW DAMNIT
WHY ARE YOU SO COMPLICATED

>>7540770
I use whatever is the middle, since that is what the manual recommends. I think it's a 5, and the highest is 9

>>7540776
Did you... put the bobbin in...

>>7540780
Sounds like it. Or perhaps put the bobbin in incorrectly, for any number of reasons. Maybe the direction of the spool is backyards, maybe the thread isn't escaping through the right hole, etc

>>7540780
Yes (there was one already in the machine), so I just threaded the spool in the top.

>>7540785
did you fish the bottom thread up?

>making cosplay, deadline reaching
>dear machine suddenly dies and it takes a week when it's getting fixed
>had to borrow a cheap small Brother machine
>loud as fuck, can't go too fast because it's too light and starts shaking, overall worse quality and it's too tiny to properly work with

At least I learned that I will never get a small machine, I was so happy to get my own machine back.

>>7540784
Did you... pull the bobbin thread out before sewing?

What tightness are you using?

>>7540790
LOL
I was playing with my sister's machine because it was new and shiney desu!
>couldn't go too fast when going zig zags because freaks out
naw son

>>7540791
Sorry, I wasn't this anon >>7540776

>>7540751
does it have pages like this? I have a sewing book too, without patterns. those images with a lot of numbers are directions to making a pattern. it's a bit difficult to understand it, but I could give you directions if you can get a picture of the pattern directions in your book

>>7540791
I'm kinda knew to sewing, but I pulled it up to the faceplate part and pulled it back to load out the back away from the machine

That's right, isn't it?

Also I'd tell you the tightness but I don't know what dial it is.

>>7540730
I could be wrong, but that looks like an old industrial machine. It's gorgeous either way. But yeah, it's pretty damn cheap. I'd be curious as to how it shapes up.

>>7540801
Most machine you can just turn the moter by hand and moves the needle slowing into the tray and it will pull out the bobbin for you. But... I think pressing the peddle slowly will do. Needle only needs to go in once or twice to catch it and you can pull the strings out. So you don't have to open the faceplate every time.

If you find this doesn't happen then there lies the problem. If it pulls out fine then it is not the bobbin problem.

Are there more dials on top?

>>7540801
not that the people in this thread won't be able to help you, but you may check Youtube for tutorials specific to your sewing machine. Those people will be talking about the same parts, dials, and processes, which may be more helpful.

>>7540806
>>7540807
I'll give the smaller machine I have at home a try first... this one isn't even mine.

>>7540796
Yes! The JSK I'm making doesn't have the color picture by picture instructions, only the plain black and white kind. Pic related, it's the JSK I'm trying to make. Sorry, I'd post the specific parts I'm having problems with but I sadly don't have any other pics with me. Anyway the frill pieces (for the bottom two frills and the frills on the straps) are not on the pattern piece foldout. On top of that, the measurements provided in the black and white instructions don't make sense, if I assume all numbers to be in cm or meters. I can't quite recall. Anyway, kind anon, do you know if all the pattern pieces should be on the foldout? Will the mystery be forever unsolved...

>>7540751
http://whatareyoudoingcat.tumblr.com/post/79717513640/another-way-to-check-which-pattern-pieces-are
http://whatareyoudoingcat.tumblr.com/post/77710233207/otome-no-sewing-books-pattern-list

if the pattern piece that is missing is a rectangle shape, you may need to draft it.

>>7540818
>>7540796
Pieces shown in grey on the instructions are included on the sheet, those in white need to be drafted.

>>7540818
yes, not all patterns are on the pattern sheet. it would actually make sense, as there probably isn't enough space on the sheet for frill patterns if there are a lot of other dress patterns. frills are essentally just rectangles. if you wonder how long they should be, just go for x2 - 3 the amount of the seam they should be attached to (like, if the bottom is 2 meters, your frills will be 4 to 6 meters. and almost anything is in cm when it comes to Japanese fashion and sewing.

but, if you really can't figure out the pattern making, it would really be helpfull having pictures of the pattern pages (that have to be drafted). I have classes in pattern making, so I can give you directions

>>7540822
>>7540830
>>7540872

Oh my gosh! Thank you cute anons! That makes sense, I was just paranoid since I can barely read the instructions and its so different from what I'm used to. Thank you so so so so much! May the frills be with you.

>>7540893
that's ok! i don't read Japanese at all. I just bumble through

>>7540872
Can you please email me?

I have a sewing pattern I need checked.

It's probably simply by the standards of this board, but it's still something I have no clue on how to do.

>>7541123
Oops here's the email.

>>7540707
i also bought my sewing machine at a swapmeet i got a fairly nice working singer for $20 from a cheep guy who didn't even know what it was lol

>>7540707
haha, that's the sewing machine I have. I love it to death.

>>7540719
http://www.japanesesewingbooks.com/

She also reviews the Japanese sewing books that have been put out in English and is a good source of info if you're going to use Japanese patterns.

>>7541131
sorry anon, my outlook thingy is being stuborn, so I can't email you. could you just post some pictures, I could just give you directions here

>>7540707
>>7540730

Err. From your posts I can't tell if the $35 machine is working.

If it's working (ask the seller to give a demo, maybe bring your own fabric and thread), then $35 is a steal.

If it's not working, I'd suggest you shell out for the one that is working. There's no telling what's wrong with the non working machine and how much the repair bill is going to be.

Also. Ask the seller to show you how to thread the machine, both top and bottom (bobbin). Bring your notepad and video tape her (on your handphone or something). You'd be surprised how much frustration is caused by things like not realising the bobbins should be facing counterclockwise instead of clockwise (or something equally nitpicky)

If the seller doesn't know how the machine works herself, see if you can find instructions via google, don't buy a machine you don't know how to use.

Once you get it home, sew a few straight lines first so you can get the hang of your machine, before embarking on any sewing projects. Since it's a used machine, you don't know whether there's anything odd or wrong about it, so make sure it works well before you buy fabric and thread.

>>7542048
I currently have it down in Illustrator and as a DXF.

The files are here:
http://kommandopost.com/DenisonSewingPattern/

I copied the shapes from a garment that I actually own.

I don't have that exact item on hand since I am far away from it, but I have a similar one with me right now I can get info from in case you need it.

The pattern will be redone since I've gotten more of those smocks recently that shows my info from the original smock was not exactly representative of all Denison smocks.

I just want to know what you think of the pattern I made, and maybe advise me on some notation. As you can probably tell, I'm not a professional tailor.

>>7542015
Nice. Not the anon you replied to, but thanks for the link. I've figured out a lot of patterns on my own, but this will probably be really helpful.

>>7542107
This person is right. You NEED to test it. Repairs on a sewing machine typically start around $80. My last machine broke and the repair was going to be upwards of $100, and the machine was only worth $125 to flat out replace, so your money may be better spent on a new machine. Also just because a machine looks fine doesn't mean it's not broken. My dead machine looked basically the same as when I bought it, only the control mechanism was dead, making it useful only as a doorstop.

>>7542195
>http://kommandopost.com/DenisonSewingPattern/
ah, I can't really open the files, my illustrator is on my other laptop (and I don't really know which program supports DXF, I'm a total noob in that department xD ) I can look at it on the weekend, but I'm by no means a pro either, I'm only a first year fashion student.

>>7540707
How do I actually learn to sew properly? I can copy patterns and sew the pieces together, but there has to be more to learn than that, right? What's the next step?

>>7542555
you mean like pattern adjustments/Frankenstein-ing/drafting, different seam finishes, crafting?

google. all google.

>>7542555
I just make it up as I go along tbh. Some googling, and I own a basic sewing book but otherwise I pretty much go by instinct and what seems like it'll work. Getting an adjustable dressform has been super helpful for me too because you can drape on it and play around with placements of seams and darts and the like.

>>7542555
Learning to sew properly takes a lot of hard work and dedication. One day certain things will just make sense and things you thought looked good that you made before don't look good anymore compared to the new stuff you make.

Has anyone bought the newest Otome no Sewing? I want to buy one of the volumes but can't decide between 2 or 5.

>>7542882

Midori posted some photos of the latest book since she's in it:
http://ameblo.jp/fukasawamidori/entry-11835703509.html

I won't be getting mine until next week or so.

>>7542555
That's kind of ambiguous. I'm not sure if want advice on that finishing and hemming after "sewing pieces together", or something else. Unless you join some kind of vocational school, there's not really a set of actions that you do in sequence to "sew properly".

If you're bored, my advice is to step up the difficulty level. Keep challenging yourself. Take on a project that involves something you haven't tried before or pick a project with more complicated construction, or pick up pattern alteration/drafting and design your own clothes (you could design other things too) and so on.

At the same time, have someone give you feedback on whether your sewing is actually any good (your mom or a non-backstabby friends will do). Do the clothes you sew actually fit the wearer or do they look like garbage bags? Does it look professional, or does it look like crap? If they look like crap, stop. Fix what is wrong. If it's not fixable, start over until you get it right.

Google for any bits of knowledge you're lacking, pick up a few sewing books the next time you visit the bookstore (some of it never makes it to google), or join a forum so you can ask other people how to solve problems (for lolitas, the sew_loli comm is still going okay, if a bit slow).

I'd recommend you make things that you want to own. If you're carrying around something that you've sewn and you get strangers saying it looks good, then you'll feel really proud. If your sewing is shite you're going to feel embarrased and want to improve so that your next version will be something you can proudly show off.

Some blogger wrote about how to start sewing recently, I don't know if her post will help you, but it seems similar to what you're asking:
http://www.ikatbag.com/2014/05/how-to-start-to-sew.html

>>7542882
I own 2,3,4. The quality of the patterns is equivalent, so really it just comes down to what style you have. Look at the entire pattern list for each one and see what appeals to you between 2 and 5, if you can really only get one. You probably already know this, but just in case you don't, the spring/summer ones have more skirts and less full dresses!

>>7542947
Thanks for the link! I really like the black OP and the Red Riding Hood set.

I already posted in the help thread but I thought I'd try this one as well. I'm making sleeves for a jacket and I'm not sure if I should take a bit in or not.
http://m.imgur.com/C4gwY9Q,C59ZURP,qoR2dj2

>>7543516

It does kinda look too big, but since it's an unfinished sleeve, and I'm not sure what's underneath it, it's difficult to say with 100% certainty that it's too big.

Try this: pop in the sleeve lining (if using), fold back the hem for the cuffs (tack if it won't stay in place), slide it onto your blouse sleeve then safety pin the sleeve's shoulder to your blouse shoulder (either the blouse you intend to wear under this jacket or a similar one), and try it on again. All that extra fabric may fill out the jacket sleeve, so you should judge it with everything already stuffed in there. Make sure you can bend your elbows and do other things comfortably. If it's still too loose, then make it smaller. Remember to adjust the armhole as well if you have to make the shoulder part smaller.

Whatever you do, don't cut the sleeve shorter. You can always make a deeper hem at the cuffs if you finish the jacket and find that the sleeves are too long, you cannot uncut fabric so if you finish the jacket and find the sleeves too short you're pretty much sol.

>>7540739
I have this machine, I fucking love the pink accents.

bump

Sewers of /cgl/, I am working towards making a combat vest for a costume. I am trying to recreate the vest pictured on the right of my image so that I can cosplay as the guy on the left.
What sort of materials would you recommend for this kind of thing? What durable fabrics and thread would be most appropriate? I have a sewing machine and needles, so I'm covered on that (I think).
I've got a general plan to form one strap at a time and then move to the creation of the plate carrier and after all of it is in good condition, move on to the pouches and accessories.
I'd appreciate any advice I can get.

>>7547253

The real thing? The straps are nylon webbing, generally you'd get them from a specialty shop that specialises in selling things like these for making tents, backpacks, etc. You won't be able to find them at your local haberdasher's or Joannes. Try looking on eBay (search terms: webbing, strapping, d rings and release buckles should get you most of the specialty stuff you need).

If you want, you could probably go for waterproof camouflage fabric, but I'm not entirely sure what the padding is made from. Some pieces, like the one at the waist, also most likely the shoulder straps, are probably padded with sponge foam sheet (cut to size, ofc), so that the vest is more comfortable to wear.

To sew all that together, I think most folks use upholstery thread, or at least something heavyweight. Regular poly thread is likely to break after a few wears since it's so thin. Also doublecheck your needle and machines, you'll need a larger needle to sew through it, and don't use a featherweight machine (I have a featherweight, and can't sew this stuff. The needle basically slams into the fabric but doesn't have enough power to get through the fabric). Don't forget to double sew the high-stress areas for extra durability.

I'd recommend you make a mockup out of the cheapest cotton before you start, and do a few practice sews with the machine, before you put together the final thing.

Next post: the low end fake version

>>7550020

(contd)

If you just wanted the look and didn't particularly care for the waterproof or durability (or if you're stuck with a less powerful sewing machine), then you could take it down several notches. Pick a linen or something rough for the camoflauge print fabric, try to avoid the really smooth quilting cotton stuff that looks like it might be bedsheets. Use quilting batting if you can't find sponge foam sheet, it's softer, but not as stiff so it might look off.

For the straps, it might be better to stick with webbing since the texture is so obvious, but you can look for cotton webbing or something lightweight instead of nylon. If you really can't find those, grosgrain ribbon might be a last resort, there's a texture to grosgrain that's very different from webbing, but at a distance (eg being photographed) no one will be able to tell, it's just up close that you can see it's ribbon instead of webbing. I should explain that cotton webbing can also be quite hard to sew through, especially when you fold it over as it's quite thick, grosgrain ribbon is easier to sew through. Please avoid shiny satin ribbon.

Same with the buckles, you can look for lighter weight ones, unless you really want to try and sculpt your own from polymer clay or something.

About the straps, if you have trouble with the part where you fold the ends over and sew them down, try googling "chain piecing" and following instructions for that.

Hope that helped.

>>7540766
Yes, this is definitely asking for trouble. A couple years is okay, but 10 years is a LOT of time. Go take your machine to get it serviced; you may not want to fork out the cash but if you sew constantly, it's well worth the cost.

>>7547253
It's in all likelihood going to be something like a rip stop NyCo fabric, Half Nylon Half Cotton blend, or something very similar in consistency. the fabric is going to have no texture to it, and generally have a square weave, instead of a diagonal one. In the end, what probably matters most is the look of the fabric so go with something that had a really flat texture.
The modding straps on the other hand, are USUALLY nylon, (not a shiny nylon though) But these on this vest look like they're definitely more of a cotton, and then the edging looks more like a nylon.
Other than that, batting, or foam is probably going to get you the bulk of it on the inside.

I've been using a Brother CP6500 for about a year now & it's started 'chugging' when it used to run smoothly. I replaced the needle & cleaned the machine, and I was going to oil it, but according to the official website, I need to have it serviced if I want it oiled, which is irritating because I used to oil my old (Brother) machine myself. My machine is still running strong, I just want to extend its life for as long as possible. Is it worth it to get it serviced, or should I just take a screwdriver to it myself & save money for an older/more reliable machine?

>>7550351
If it's just oil it needs then oil it. But if it's actually having mechanical problems, which if it's "chugging" it may be, you should get it serviced. Sewing machines are like cars, they have lots of moving parts and need regular maintenance.

>>7543738
Oh my god thank you, and no its not lined. Also I put on the shirt underneath it and it still looks the same so I guess Im going to take it in a bit and see how it goes and post pics.

>>7550020
>>7550022
>>7550229
Thanks a ton for all that info.

>>7550022
ohhhhh my god seriously this was amazing advice.
Thank you thank you thank you.

>>7551103
>>7551108

No prob! Think I accidentally deleted a couple of sentences because I wrote it so late at night though:

End of the first paragraph should actually read: (quilting batting is) not as stiff so it might look off, try to draft the pattern tighter fitting/smaller, otherwise it will sag and look a bit like a camouflage-print blanket rather than a combat vest.

I also forgot to mention, if you want to sew your straps out of fabric rather than use ribbons or webbing, try to pick something with a rough texture, eg canvas, crepe or linen. It's easier to sew than cotton webbing and easier to find than wide grosgrain, but it's more work.

I'm sorry about that.


>>7550229

Cotton webbing tends to absorb moisture and mold faster if it isn't allowed to dry out properly. That's why most outdoorsy stuff is made with nylon webbing, and is probably also half the reason for padding in this vest as nylon webbing is much stiffer than cotton (the other half of the padding is probably something like kevlar). Or so I think, anyway.

FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, DO NOT JUST GO AHEAD AND OIL IT IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THE MACHINE. Only certain parts should be oiled and the machine is electronic so, you need to be very careful with how you "fix" it.

>>7551389
a good dusting is always good though.

what books/tutorials would you recommend for a beginner?

I bought a Singer 403 a while back at a thrift store and recently purchased the missing cords. It worked very nicely on a couple test pieces of fabric and everything else seems to work peachy.

My question is, should I get it serviced just to be on the safe side? I think I may, seeing as I don't know it's history and it's a 50 year old machine.

>>7552637
Machines should get serviced every five years or so. Or whenever it sounds off, jams all the time, ect

>>7540707
I do some sewing, mostly of utility-type stuff. I'd like to learn more about tailoring and sewing, but I'm so hard into making props that I'll probably never sit down and learn.

On the of-chance I do, does anyone have a primer on making garments? I already know how to work a sewing machine and how to follow patterns, but I'd like to learn how to make my own garments from scratch.

>>7552632

Why is everyone so vague.

You're better off deciding what you want to make, then go google instructions for it. Alternatively, visit the bookstore and pick up one of those "xx sewing projects" type of books, just pick one that has things you want to make, make sure the instructions inside it make sense to you (don't buy a book you don't understand, duh). Or you could visit the craft store, pick up a pattern (assuming you want to make clothes) and work off the instructions inside.

The easiest fabric to sew is cotton, specifically quilting cotton. The less pattern pieces something has, the easier it is to put together. If you're not comfident about zippers, chose patterns that don't use them (for now).

If you're sewing clothes, it's also useful to go to your local bookstore and pick up one of those sewing manuals -- something like Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing. It's better if it also has a section on different types of fabric and what uses each has. All you need is to be able to look up how to put together something, if the pattern you're working off has really vague instructions. A lot of these books also have pattern alteration instructions, so it's also helpful if you fit the bust but not the waist of a ready-made pattern.

When you feel like ready-made clothing patterns no longer cut it for you, you can try picking up a book on pattern drafting, then drafting your own pattern from scratch.

That's about it all, really. It's just sewing, not rocket science.

>>7552851

Since you already know how to follow patterns, I suggest picking up a book on pattern drafting. A good one will also give you instructions on drafting different collars, blouses, skirt types etc according to your measurements.

After that, it's a matter of selecting the right fabric/notions, and then putting together the garment according to the patterns you make. If you need help on sewing techniques for things like collars, pockets, zippers and so on, pick up one of the sewing technique books as well.(Complete Guide to Sewing, for eg).

>>7553118
I feel this way when people ask me "how do you make props?" I can tell you how to make a specific prop, but not just props in general because they're all different and use different methods and materials. I think a lot of noobs are looking for some magical "if you follow these steps then all your cosplays will be perfect and amazing!" A lot of it is just learning what methods work for what things and practicing.

>>7553171

I can sort of understand not understanding that different props are made from different materials with different methods, most people are unable to tell if something is made from plastic, cast from plaster, sculpted in paperclay, sculpted in polymer clay, printed in a 3D printer, made from worbla, or maybe you just had the designs sent to some monks in China who meditate things into existence. The whole idea of fabricating anything at all is probably a strange new idea for them.

Anyway, my gripe isn't that less people should ask them, it just makes the reply really long winded because I'm thinking "let's assume they want to sew clothes, but if they're making giftbags then...." It's also a lot less accurate, I can give you more specific info if you specifically ask me "how do I make x" rather than a general "how do I sew everything ever".

>>7552851

I can personally recommend Pattern Making by the Flat-Pattern Method by Norma R. Hollen and Carolyn J. Kundel because it's what I used in college. However, the 8th edition (the one I own) has rose in price dramatically.

Modern Pattern Design: The Complete Guide to the Creation of Patterns as a Means of Designing Smart Wearing Apparel, by Harriet Pepin (1942) is available for download. http://sewingfriendswearables.wordpress.com/2011/10/17/free-download-of-modern-pattern-design/

That website has an incomplete pdf of the book but if you do some digging on the net, you should be able to find the full version. The book is pretty dated, but not bad for free.

I apologize in advance if this is a really dumb question, I just don't want to fuck this up. I recently bought two vintage dresses that are as long as the picture. I bought them in hopes I could alter them to be lolita dresses. If I wanted to make the skirt part shorter would I hem it from the bottom, or remove it from the bodice and take it in, then reattach it? Either way, would it look too weird/frumpy with a petticoat underneath after I'm done?

>>7554052
I would just hem it and cut off the excess. If you're worried about it looking frumpy, pin it up with the petti underneath and see how it looks.. You might want to do it anyway to make sure your hem is level. Always make sure your hem is level with the garment on.. Have someone pin it with it on you if need to.

>>7554060
Ah, okay! Thank you so much!

>>7552851
>>7554032

Forgot to mention. Buy a pattern like Vogue's 1003 and 1004 closest to your size. Alter it to fit you, sew it up, try it on, alter it some more if you need to and then retrace the patterns (with the darts and seam lines cut out) onto card stock or something that won't warp and crinkle. Your darts basically point toward your nipple (I think it's called your bust point). You'll want to put a hole right there for when you trace the pattern and want to move the darts around.

That's gonna be your pattern block that you can trace out and alter. It's so basic that you can do whatever you want with it. I would practice on a quarter scale of a full block so you're not wasting paper.

Hi seagulls, I'm making a dress heavily inspired (not quite a replica) by VM's corduroy OP (for personal use ofc) and decided to use velvet ribbon, is this a good idea or should I go buy somehing different. Thanks.

OK guys, I need your help. Should I treat this as a princess seam dress or a darted dress?
I need to do a bust adustment.

>>7554634
The bodice/top part looks like princess seamed, while the skirt looks darted. That's assuming you're making the bodice and skirt out of two seperate pieces. Bust adjustments should be easy on a princess-seamed bodice.

>>7554732
Thanks! The skirt and bodice are sewn separately before being joined for this. I just need to go do the adjustment. Thankfully I just need to do my regular 1/2"

>>7542877
>things you thought looked good that you made before don't look good anymore
This feeling. I kind of hate this feeling.

>>7554630
I love this dress, I have it in green. It's a nice choice to make. What colour are you going for? On the original, they just use the same fabric as the dress to make the straps, but I think velvet would work well too as long as it matched back with your fabric choice. It would be keeping in with the same texture and would be less thick.

Is there an existing pattern or something like it for Stocking's Dress? If there is can anyone point me in the right direction?

>>7557293

The issue of Cosmode that has the pattern for the plushie has a pattern for a generic "lolita" dress that is basically Stocking's dress in a different colour, if you can find it.

Sadly I don't have/can't find a scan or even which issue number it is, there was a thread about that cosmode when it came out, but I think it was before cgl started getting archived.

What's the best course of action when your serger timing is off?
I've heard everything from 'never try to maintenance it yourself, it will die' to 'getting it fixed will just be a very expensive ten seconds with a screwdriver'
I'm leaning more towards getting it repaired to be on the safe side, but more input would be helpful

>>7557560
See if you can find a tutorial that looks decent or a service manual, then if it doesn't fix take it to the experts

>>7557560
Sergers are fucking complicated, even more so than sewing machines. Unless it's something you can pinpoint and find a specific fix for, it's worth getting it serviced. Case in point: my sewing machine had loose stitches, some googling showed me it was a loose bottom bobbin, 2 tries with a hair pin and it was done. Then it started skipping stitches, catching like a bitch, and breaking thread all the time. I called a serviceman and he spent 3 hours on it. In between he asked me to check 2 -3 times thinking he'd fixed it but it started jamming again. Since the service fee was fixed not including parts, I felt so bad I gave him a big tip.

:3

>>7557988
What is that? It's so small, if it works decent I'd use it to take with me to sew for AA stuff at the hotel room or something.

Two questions anons. I want to get into sewing and need some tips.
>What is THE best sewing machine for beginners you can think of and how complicated is it
>What is a good fabric for beginners to practice on and actually start sewing with
>Where is a good place to read up about the parts of a sewing machine, I have no fucking clue what a bobbin and all that shit is, where it is, or how to care for a machine if I ever get one.
I really don't want to fuck anything up or waste money, I trust you guys more than mommybloggers and whatever else out there on the interwebs.

>>7558023
Found it at a craft store for £20. It works okay... hardly any options on it so it's only useful for basic stuff.

bump

>>7552637
That's a great find Anon! Mine's a 401, so only a bit older than yours and I love it to death. As far as servicing it goes, you can do a lot of it yourself, they're all metal machines so it's damn hard to screw them up and a lot of what they need is just cleaning.

Another thing to look into if you don't have one is a cabinet for it! I can't stand not having one, it makes sewing so much easier.

>>7558330
I don't know the best beginner sewing machine but for your other questions:
2) Muslin. Buy a whole bolt when they go on sale at JoAnns or something. It's cheapo fabric. If you cannot get muslin, probably broadcloth is your next cheapest option
3) Your manual from whatever machine you buy will be good enough. If you actually read it, they show you how to maintain your machine.

>>7558473
I have one too. its really a piece of shit but it does a decent straight stitch and is good for emergencies, and it has a bobbin winder suprisingly. they're also battery powered which makes it nice and portable.

>>7558624
I should really get a proper machine but the price doesn't justify it considering I hardly ever sew my own costumes.

>>7558616
Thanks a lot anon! I've never seen a JoAnns around here, only Hobby Lobby (they have fabric, apparently) so I'll look there!
I'm just confused about machines because of these "100 stitch 30 mode bobbin winding fart destroyer" big words. Heard good things about Brothers though.

>machine stitches my cuddle fleece really well
>try stitching less thicker fleece
>hardly stitches into it
WHAT THE FUCK DO I DO
I really need to stitch this one thing and my damn machine won't work with it, fuck

Any tips for trying to hem a sleeve/turn short sleeves into a tank-top without having to open up the seams?
The dress has a circle skirt, so I could pretty easily hem it without having to open up the seam to make it flat, but I don't think the sleeves would be big enough to make that work.

>>7561668
Adjust the tension and/or the stitch length. If it's less thicker, then you may have to increase your tension or stitch length. If all else fails, you may have to clean your machine. Fleece leaves little fuzzies all up in your machine.

>>7561695
Cut sleeves to 3/4", then use that the face the armhole.

Got a random bag of sewing machine feet from Goodwill but have no idea what most of them are. Not even sure they'll work in my machine but anyone have any clue what they do?

bump

Hey cgl, I have a problem.
I bought a dress for my boyfriends graduation and my problem is I think it makes me look too boxy. Is there anything I could do, just miniumal sewing to make it look better? It fits very snug, so nothing I can do as far as that goes.

>>7562701
Sewing machine feet are brand-specific, I think.

>>7563027
You can take it to a tailor or return it.

>>7563049
I was thinking if there was anything I myself could do.
Im going to attempt to take in the sides and see if thatll do anything

>>7563027
If it fits snugly then taking it in (which would be my first suggestion for making it less boxy) may not be an option. What's your body type like, anon? Look up some charts for stuff that does and does not flatter your body shape and see if you can add/subtract those things to/from the dress.

>>7563027
Wear it with a wide belt to draw attention to your waist.

Unfortunately if it fits snug and still looks boxy, it's you, not the dress

>>7562701
Most feet are brand specific, not 100% on some of these and def don't know what the rest are

Ahh! So excited to have a general sewing thread. I'm really tiny so I have to do a lot of alterations, but I want to make more stuff from scratch. I think my next project will be a lounging robe or a light summer jacket (to shield my arms from the sun when I drive or walk).

I can't get to it right now because we're rearranging the furniture but I have this beautiful, all metal sewing machine from the 1950s and its PINK. Its so pretty. Once I can I will upload images. Its lovely, and so much nicer than my 1970s nylon-gears sewing machine, which i end up doing more work on actually.

How often do you really use anything other than a straight seam? The pink 1950s machine only does straight seams but it does them so well . . . i wonder if it is worth replacing the machines or if i should just buck up and have two machines set up at once; the pink for the bulk of construction, and the 1970s machine for the finishings (it came with a bunch of really handy accesories, especially for seam finishes).

Is it possible to make à dress a ruffled skirt instead of a pleated one or is it going to look too messy ?

Also how to make à petticoat ?

Oh god, /cgl/, what have I done?

The collar/bow/neckline are all just pinned in place, so the whole bodice is sitting a bit low and the neckline looks wonky as fuck - It won't be quite so low once I ruche it properly.

>>7566917
The collar looks a little different than how you drew it. Shouldn't it be wider in parts and be sitting a little higher on the bodice?

> subscribe to Burda magazine US
> cute dress let's try!
> funky notches
> shit instructions
> no images at all

I may be mollycoddled by the big 4 in the states, but shit japanese patterns are easier to understand.

ugh i accidently cut my fabric with my serger. i am making a blazer and its beside the dart on the back peice, i was wondering if i should do a double dart, or would it look silly and should i just abandon it?

>>7566917
This is very cute. I want it! I can't comment on any technical things since I can't sew (yet).

Hello /cgl/ since I'll likely require more than a hint on how to go about I'm not sure if I should make a new thread or not, but I'll start here.

/k/ has a project to make camo reproductions, gf likes short shorts and a certain unit also liked short shorts.
While I know how to and have shortened trousers before, I haven't converted male to female.. I'm wondering the following:
Due to the crotch length and general cut of the upper part, what needs modifying and how do I go about doing it?

>>7567367
I love Burda patterns, it was the first skirt pattern I ever did in my university sewing class. But I wouldn't have been able to finish it without my professor guiding me along. Their patterns are hard to follow.

My bobbin case is starting to rust, and I'm assuming other parts in my machine are too. What do I do? I have some steel wool but I don't want to fuck anyrhing up.

>>7570921
Barkeeper's Friend! It's a scouring powder. First you remove the rusted piece from the machine (Which if it's the bobbin case should be fairly easy) and try and rub he worst of the rust off with rubbing alcohol and a qtip. If that fails, make a thin paste of the Barkeeper's Friend and gently rub it with your fingers into the rust. Rinse and dry completely. Unless the rusting is really bad that should take care of it with a couple rounds.

bump

>>7570298

If making from scratch, best fit is to to draft from scratch, using wearer's measurements. Have person at hand so you can have them try on pants while making it so you can be sure it fits well.

If shortening ready-made pants -- find a pair that already fits, and shorten that.

If you're asking how to make an L size men's pants fit a curvy M size girl, my advice is, don't. Pants side seams tend to be sewn with felled seams, it's so much trouble to take that apart and sew it back smaller, not to mention dealing with pockets and inseam curves and making things fit. Just go out, buy your own camo fabric and make your pair of fitting pants.

>>7575201
Thanks.
Even if this puts me in a bit of a pickle.
I'm likely to have access to the very same fabric the reproductions will use but I'm not sure I'm capable of sewing them from the ground up nor do I have any idea where to get a pattern to base it on.

>>7557293
>>7557324
This one?

>>7566917

This looks shit, abandon it.

>>7558330
It is a little more expensive than buying online or at a big box store, so I know not everyone can do it, but if you buy a machine at a decent shop they will hold regular inexpensive "Beginner Classes on Husquvarna/Viking 425" or whatever you buy. They may even be able to let you try a couple set-up machines so you can be familiar with what you are buying.

That is the brand/model I got more than 10 years ago. I got trained on it by a sewer who had a slightly different model of the same brand, but it's an incredibly simple, well-built machine that has held up well and sewn all kinds of wacky things and fabrics.

A beginner's class is really a great idea if you can't learn from a more advanced friend, and even if you do have a friend, a class will give you a comprehensive foundation on sewing with and maintaining your machine.

>>7566917
Holy shit that's a lot of fabric you pinned together on the skirt part.

>>7579429

Yes! that's the one. The dress is marked as "Lolita dress" rather than Stocking's dress, but it's almost the same thing.

>>7579392

You could either pick up a pattern-drafting book and follow the instructions, buy commercial patterns from Joann's/some fabric shop, or if your subject can easily find cheap pants, buy something cheap from F21 or something, cut it up and use them as pattern.

>>7566917
I-I like it anon.