/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

I'll start: how fucked am I if I drafted a sleeve cap pattern before my armscye? Do I need to toss out my sleeve pattern and do the armscye first or can I fudge my way through this? Ease isn't an issue. I'm making a sloper because I'm tired of fucking up the fit on my garments

>>10615505
might need to adjust it if the seam lengths differ once you've got the bodice drafted. what sloper draft are you using?

>>10616281
Self drafted it using ye olde duct method so in theory the armhole should be the exact length of the sleeve cap... But I think I cut it out kinda weird. Starting over would be a little annoying because this sleeve fits me perfectly but if I need to I guess I gotta

>>10615499
Request for help here, just got a singer 4452 and an brand new to sewing. Things went well for a bit but now the top thread seems to be getting jammed in two spots in bottom area. Seems like a piece is out of place? Please help, I was so excited to start but now I am lost.

>>10617458
There’s likely a bit of string or fabric debris caught in that area. Take everything out and inspect it closely and remove the debris

>>10617458
I agree with the other anon. Try taking out the throat plate and giving it a good clean with a brush and a pick. Thoroughly check the bobbin area. Then, rethread both the top and bottom threads and the bobbin case. Make sure that you're weaving the bobbin thread through the case (if your bobbin case requires that) and placing the thread tail in the correct direction. I dont' have a top-loading bobbin on my machine, so I can't say for certain if this advice applies to you, but I was taught that your bobbin thread tail should make a 'p' not a 'q'

>>10617458
W/o a video or knowing specifically what material you're sewing I'm not 100% sure of how exactly it's jamming but I can offer you the following threading mistakes I remember making:
>forgetting to raise the presser foot before threading
>forgetting to lower the presser foot before sewing
>skipping a top thread guide
>loading bobbin backwards
(refer to your manual. like the other anon said the bobbin should either look like a p or q depending on your machine, it's usually a p but not always)
>using the wrong bobbin
I found out the hard way not all bobbins are interchangeable. If your machine is meant to be used with plastic bobbins, don't stick metal ones in it and vice versa. It's also possible you are using the wrong size bobbin (bobbins for industrial and embroidery machines are taller than domestic bobbins and will cause issues)
>wrong thread
Unlikely to cause the issue you're having, but certain types of speciality threads like
some embroidery threads shouldn't be used in the bobbin and are meant for top thread only
>bobbin wound incorrectly
If your bobbin is wound too loose, the thread can catch on other parts
>incorrect thread tension/wrong needle size/type
self explanatory but doesn't sound like the specific issue you're having unless you're having also having threads that break or skipped stitches
>wrong machine foot
Also unlikely unless you've purchased additional feet or your machine was advertised as having embroidery functions, but satin stitch feet sit higher than regular feet and can cause tension issues
>you're yanking on the fabric and it's bending the needle/throwing off the timing
Usually this ends up with your needle breaking too
>Foreign object in the lower part of the machine
Self explanatory, just get in there with some tweezers and maybe compressed air
>You didn't catch the bobbin thread or aren't holding the thread tails
Some machines are picky and you need to hold the thread tails behind the machine for it to start correctly

Anyone else here own a vintage or antique machine? Was lucky enough that a friend gave me his late grandmother's White Rotary 77. It had been removed from the original cabinet that had the knee control but I was able to retrofit it with a pedal. Unfortunately, even with the help of an engineer I was not able to figure out a way to adapt it to use modern feet (white used a bizarre proprietary system of foot attachment); the position of the presser bar sits too far back for that. But this has quickly become my favorite machine despite the limitation of straight stitch only and the fact that it's as loud as a lawnmower. It just sews through anything without complaining.

I'm interested in sewing a massive, heavy plush toy as a special prop. Any recommendations for sturdy, yet soft fabric? Any tutorials/resources specifically for sewing huge, heavy plushes?

>>10618631
All of the fancy plushies are often made of minky which is quite expensive but has a good softness without the pilling of felt. As for resources, I don't have any specifically, but I've seen free and paid embroidery resources on Pinterest and Etsy.

>>10618631
Fabric alone isn't going to cut it. You need interfacing, an armature, a well-designed pattern, and upholstery foam to get it to keep it's shape. Otherwise you'll have a sad sack. You might want to look into some fursuit making resources (I know, I know) or puppet making resources because it's not too different from what it sounds like you're trying to do

What are you working on, anons? Are you in the middle of a project or planning your next one?

>>10621366
I'll start off. I'm about 60% through my Maid Ichigo costume from Tokyo Mew Mew and am currently working on the apron. The cotton I used is really soft and the gathers make it look fluffy so I'm happy with it. I need to attach the waistband and make the bottom heart part thingy, but I'm stuck deciding on whether adding a pocket behind the heart would be weird since it's right at my hips.

>>10621366
It's very rough and unfinished right now, but I'm in the middle of sculpting a staff with 2-part epoxy. I'm also setting up a home sewing station in preparation of a new sewing and embroidery machine. I've got grand plans and motivation to git gud at sewing with modern machinery all of a sudden, after years of dabbling in hand-sewing and occasionally borrowing a vintage machine.

>>10621516
>posted about sculpting in a sewing thread
Shit, I convinced myself it was a general crafting thread. Here's babby's first hand embroidery I did for a hat that accompanies the staff.

>>10621525
>>posted about sculpting in a sewing thread
kek no worries, i'm about to (sort of) follow your lead

>>10621366
planning on making another dress for my mom because we both really liked how the pattern i used for her mother's day gift came out. project i'm in the middle of is making a dressform for/of myself. currently scraping the expanding foam out of the plaster mold because the mold release didn't work. worked fine for the trial run; not quite sure what happened there but gonna just use petroleum jelly next time.

>>10621366
I'm about 99% done with two costumes (just waiting for a few materials & resin to cure) so I got started on my next one, trying out the seamless trim method & almost have the corners down, it's pretty tough to get it wrinkle free though

>>10621366
Currently trying to hype myself up to start a project that's going to be stupid hard and I only have one shot of doing right because it's leather and once I make holes in that they're there forever

>>10621578
>i'm in the middle of is making a dressform for/of myself
Me too anon, care to share more about your process? I sorta posted about mine further up, the sloper I mentioned is really a draft for my dress form and I had my sister wrap me in duct tape to get a starting place for my pattern blocks
>>10621516
OP here... While off topic for this thread this is very very cool and I would like to see more. You should make a WIP thread! We haven't had one in a while

>>10621516
>>10621525
We should have another general crafting thread, its been awhile. Your work is so clean and professional! I'm jealous that you have enough space to house two machines! I don't have a permanent spot for my machine yet and its such a pain. I can really tell how has a negative impact on the amount of time I sew. Looking at the work you've produced by hand and vintage machine, I have no doubt you'll master modern machinery in no time.

>>10621891
>I don't have a permanent spot for my machine yet and its such a pain
tfw you have 5 machines because you adopt them like they're stray cats and yet you don't really have anywhere to put them so you have four just sitting on the shelf at any given time

>>10621578
Aw, that's sweet anon. I've always wanted to make my mom a dress. I've never heard of that method for making a dress form, how interesting. Good luck on the next try I suppose.

>>10621600
Wow, you have incredible efficiency to be able to do so many projects at once. I can only handle one big project and a few intermittent small projects at a time. Which characters are you making?

>>10621669
The fact that you're even attempting a hard project is proof of your dedication. I shy away from hard projects at all costs lol. You can do it! Just work much slower than usual and think twice / sew once and I'm sure you'll do great.

>>10621892
Hahaha, I've never heard of a sewing machine hoarder until today. My bedroom is a shoebox so I don't even has a desk or stray shelf to put my lonely machine in. I had to buy a cart so it didn't start collecting dust in the closet.

>>10621891
>I'm jealous that you have enough space to house two machines!
I actually bought a combination sewing+embroidery machine. If I find that I really get into embroidery, I imagine I'd like to get a dedicated machine with a much larger embroidery area, but by then I'll also hope to be living in a house with more space. I actually have dreadfully little room in my current home for the amount of crafting supplies I desire to own. Looking at sewing/craft room inspo online fills me with yearning.

>>10621690
sure. husband wrapped me in plaster bandage rolls, the sort doctors use when you break your arm. did the front first, then vaseline along the shoulder & side seam edges so the halves would separate without having to cut me out of it, then did the back. after that sprayed 4 coats of plasti-dip in them. then repeated all that for a smaller version of just part of my hand to test the mold release. next, coated both halves in mold release and started in with the first layer of expanding foam. next day went to add another layer and noticed the mold release had dried up and gone filmy and then i spent the next few days scraping all the bullshit out of the plaster molds. turned out to be a happy accident though because the expanding foam we'd chosen ended up sucking ass and there were tons of huge air bubbles everywhere. so my next steps now are gonna be to wash a mix of watered down wood glue over the molds, re-do the plasti-dip coating, slather in vaseline, and have a go with a different brand of foam that specifically touts its lack of air bubbles right on the can. fingers crossed lol. oh and the stand. slapped together a stand for it using mostly pvc pipe for the internal structure and then a big wide heavy flat bit of wood for the base.

>>10621979
I thought about expanding foam but was worried about the exact same problems you're having (improper cure, air bubbles, etc) so I'm just stuffing mine like a pillow instead. Planning on using polyfill but if I need to I can supplement it with cut up fabric scraps. I hope you'll keep us updated anon; when I was looking into making my own dress form it was surprisingly hard to find stuff about people making ones other than just making one out of duct tape and calling it a day

>>10621904
Idk if it's efficiency, it's probably more lack of concentration & getting distracted. Character is aelita from code lyoko, the photo is just the lining so the colors are a bit off

>>10621979
>>10622001
Excited to see how your dressforms turn out! Keep us updated

>>10622107
Ntayrt but I love code lyoko, hope to see more progress! I started patterning Aelita's season 4 outfit a couple years ago, should really get back to it.

>>10622107
Haha, that's fair. I also love Code Lyoko! I think you dropped your photo tho

>>10621904
>I've always wanted to make my mom a dress.
do it! seriously, making stuff for the ones you love is good for the soul. both your own and theirs alike.
>tfw husbando's apparent favorite shirt these days is a cotton seersucker i made for him a few months ago, one of the very first shirts i made him is approaching threadbare with how much he's worn it, and bathrobe he requested last year has seen daily use since the literal second i finished it
>tfw mama wore birthday gift dress to book club meeting and all the other gals loved it and gave her loads of compliments and she got to say that her daughter made it when one of em asked where she got it, and she's just absolutely /beaming/ while relaying this to me
>tfw could greentext similar involving dad, cousin, and even cat lol but you get the idea
find a nice simple pretty pattern and make your mom a dress anon :)

>>10622001
the stuffing methods' success rests on having a woven sloper as a starting point. for the life of me i can't produce one that fits. what are your fit issues?
>surprisingly hard to find stuff about people making ones other than just making one out of duct tape and calling it a day
tell me about it!!
https://couturestories.blogspot.com/p/dressform.html
https://web.archive.org/web/20130207034856/http://sartorialdiy.com/post/5609205817/creating-your-own-dress-form-a-howto
http://overflowingstash.com/tag/dress-forms/
also thank you thank you THANK YOU for posting that. i went looking for the first link above again because i remembered it being bretty informative, found a few more good ones in doing so, and concluded that i am fully overcomplicating this. so, revised plan: check that glue wash made surface sufficiently grippy, single coat of plasti-dip if not, line with cellophane, ~1/2" thick cardboard paper mache layer, then fill the rest with foam to secure the stand. will be cheaper, quicker, cleaner, and much easier to ensure the stand positioning doesn't end up wonky.

>>10622107
will do!

>>10622327
>the stuffing methods' success rests on having a woven sloper as a starting point. for the life of me i can't produce one that fits. what are your fit issues?
I am using a woven; I bought some heavy duty canvas that feels similar to what I've seen on most industrial dress forms. As for fit issues, I want to rip my hair out over getting the armscye length to match the sleeve cap length and also figuring out how to compensate for that fact that my right breast is larger than my left one AND I want to use this form primarily for crossplay so I flattened my breasts for it when I did the duct tape wrap (it sort of resembles "boobloaf"). I'm very comfortable with adobe illustrator and while it's not the best program for drafting patterns (I tried AutoCAD and it drove me nuts. Not surprising since it's meant for engineers and not seamstresses) it has basic features like the ability to measure the length of paths and I might need to resort to that to make sure the sleeve fits in the armhole. The other issue I'm having with the armhole is drafting sleeves is totally different than drafting a replica of your own arms because there's zero ease. The armhole is really small because of this and I'm having trouble getting it to sit right

>>10622327
Goddamn those stories are wholesome. I will, anon!

dressform update: glue wash sealed the plaster and made the surface not absorbent anymore as intended but didn't do much for the grippy factor. plasti-dip coat has been applied and is dry. four largest pots are steaming on the stove filled with delicious cardboard soup. gonna let soak for another couple hours and then beat the shit out of it in batches using muh stand mixer. do you guys know how to make paper mache?? like it's just paper water and glue, right? dunno the ratio or any of that though. any tips would be greatly appreciated.

>>10622345
i read yesterday the commercial ones are paper mache core + cotton batting + linen. the canvas you've got ought to do the job quite nicely!
>getting the armscye length to match the sleeve cap length
>it has basic features like the ability to measure the length of paths
go search "plan measure -digital" on ebay. do "map wheel" and "opisometer" too. you can pick up an incredibly nice old swiss or german made one for $15-$20. i got one some months ago and cannot emphasize enough how much ass this thing kicks and how elegantly useful it is for exactly what you're struggling with.
>tried AutoCAD and it drove me nuts.
same. dunno if that exact program but anything billed officially as CAD just deer-in-headlights me immediately. if inkscape could into parametric constraints i'd be one very happy camper but that's a tall order that's p much never ever gonna happen lol. meh, what can you do.
>how to compensate for that fact that my right breast is larger than my left
compensate where/when/at which stage?
>zero ease
probably you know this already but just in case: sleeve cap and armscye lengths shouldn't be an exact 1:1 match. you do need a tiny amount of ease at the top of the cap; the more fitted the garment, the more crucial that becomes. but yeah drafting sleeves is a bitch and a half. if you hit upon any eureka moments please do post them!
>having trouble getting it to sit right
is it gaping? what's it doing?

>>10622357
<3

>>10617789
You're pretty much stuck with it. I have a vintage sewing machine and haven't found a way to modify it for modern sewing feet either.

>>10623168
I like my White but yeah I've accepted I'm not going to convince it to take modern feet. Old feet in good shape are a bit rare but they do exist on eBay. Just annoyed I can't use things like a teflon foot or clear foot on it.
As for vintage sewing machines in general; someone near me was selling a singer model 66 for $30 and accepted my offer but is taking a long time to get back to me about when I can meet her to pay/pick it up. Not totally sure it's in working condition but it's a treadle model and those are easy as hell to repair and it's been such a dream of mine to own a treadle that I'm willing to put in the work to repair it.
Unlike White, it has a standard side-screw foot attachment system so I should be able to fit modern low shank feet on it.

>>10621600
What's going on with your serger? Is the tension off or did you just feed that piece of fabric badly with the knife up?

>>10622424
i can't believe you're trying this kind of project and you don't even know how to make paper mache, you're so fucking embarrassing.

>>10624002
they are trying you retard. What are you doing other than complain?

>>10624002
topkek. embarrassing to whom? you? i've never had occasion to wanna use the stuff for anything until a few days ago. if it puts your mind at ease, i do now know how to into paper mache. it's currently in the plaster molds drying. ended up skipping the stand mixer idea and using a bucket, drill, and paint mixer instead. came together well. or seems to have anyway; if it turns out otherwise, i'll assess what failed and why and try again. how else do you think people figure out how to do stuff except by trying it?

>>10624002
Not everyone learns how to do paper mache as a kid. Learning how to do it is a super simple google search away, but it's retarded to feel that every adult should already know how to.

wew. dressform is just about finished. it's hung upside down in the garage now. gonna give it a couple days for the foam to fully cure. should be ready to roll after that.

i had a knit pj pants pattern on hand that i really like and wanted to adjust it to work with woven fabrics. it turned out really well. anyone want the pattern for it?