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/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL


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10223121 No.10223121 [Reply] [Original]

Previous: >>10084979

What are you working on, gulls?

>> No.10223124

unanswered questions from the end of the previous thread:

>>10213338
>>10213617
>>10217692

>> No.10223179
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10223179

saw this gobelin and I'm debating going back for it. the gobelin thread that popped up recently really inspired me.

>> No.10223194

>>10223179
Looks like it's a decent prince, too. I will be interested to see what you do with it. Keep us updated.

>> No.10223207

>>10223124
For the corduroy anon, I think a chunky cotton lace would look nice.

>>10223179
OMG yes go back and buy it.

>> No.10223236
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10223236

>>10223194
>>10223207
will do! I won't be able to go back until Friday, hopefully it's still there.

Also I just realized I never posted this here and only posted to reddit, I'm the same anon who had the coffee fabric and made the red dress and this is what I came up with design wise for the coffee print. Wanted to keep it simple since the print is kind of busy.

>> No.10223419

I just finished a knitted bolero, but as I changed the pattern a bit (thinner yarn and needles) it won't sit properly. I'm thinking of knitting another one with different pattern but I haven't found good one yet.

>> No.10223423
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10223423

I’m making one of those old scraggly usakumyas! Just finished a second trial version in plain cotton - took a lot of fine tuning, but I’m getting there. Ideally, I’d love to make a tutorial to spread the pattern around and give others the opportunity to make one for themselves since they’re so hard to come by secondhand, but not sure where I can post something like that.

>> No.10223635

>>10223121
The OP with the peter pan collar from Otome no Sewing 2. Today I put the sleeves on and I'm really excited to finish it soon!

>> No.10223656

>>10223423
that would be so nice, I would love to make one for myself too. you could share it here, and there’s also a handmade lolita Facebook page. insta would be good too, you can use google drive or Dropbox to make it easily accessible.

>> No.10223769

>>10223423
Anon, I would love to see your tutorial for it! You can post it to Lolita Sewing Collective on FB or to dropbox and link it here

>> No.10223808

>>10223121
Maybe this is better suited for the stupid questions thread, but it's handmade-specific: where do you buy high-quality lace?

>> No.10223855

>>10223808

If your local shops don't have any, I think most people buy through taobao.

Alternatively, old egl/sew_loli used to recommend kuboriki and cheeptrims. Cheeptrims sells entire yards so you should see if anyone else in your area sews and you can do a group order together, it's mainly good if you want a whole lot of lace very, very cheap. Kuboriki's old site doesn't seem to have updated since 2008, but they have a shop on rakuten: https://www.rakuten.co.jp/kuboriki/

If you're into sweet, you can also try laces.taobao.com, but be warned this shop copies brand lace, which also makes it the only reliable spot to find lace with AP motifs. I'll leave the morals to you/your comm whether this is okay with you or not.

>> No.10224092

>>10223855
I've visited the local Joann's, and their lace looked really crappy.

I'm looking for small amounts in a variety of styles to make/decorate little accessories like socks, wristcuffs, headwear, maybe even cutsews if I get good. I mainly want it to be high-quality (and I don't mind paying more for it), which is hard to tell from low-res photos, so I'm wondering if there are particular listings that anons have bought and can vouch for or if there are specific search terms I should use to filter the medium stuff from the really nice stuff. Is there anything available that's considered brand-quality?

I think I wouldn't mind a lace design replica as long as it didn't have the brand's logo or initials. Is that something people would notice? I guess it doesn't matter since I'm a loner - I don't have anyone to judge me or share orders with me.

>> No.10224157

>>10223236
Bodice construction lines, bib and 2 waist darts, will not look good with this print even if you waste a lot of fabric pattern matching. I’d redesign the bodice as a switching style if you want to use this print. The collar, waist and and cuff color is also kind of unfortunate. I’d never put that color next to skin without a very good reason, it’s going to look gross. You seem like the type who likes to draw ideas and try for unique design a bit too hard, but can’t actually competently draft patterns or drape with a good eye for color and motif.

>> No.10224159

>>10223179
Ugh, lucky duck, where? I’d love that piece.

>> No.10224163
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10224163

>>10224092
People notice lace motifs, yes. Logo, mascot to name is a no go, if it was identical but containing none of the above is questionable but I think it would squeak by. Something like this carousel horse without the ‘AP’ would be a good example of questionable but probably ok, but with the letters, not ok.

>> No.10224172
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10224172

Can anyone tell me what the instructions for placing the pocket mean? How far across from the seam should they be? (ONS13 heart pocket skirt)

>> No.10224226

>>10224172
Looks like halfway between the center fold and edge. 15cm up on the front only.

>> No.10224326

>>10224157
hmm! I hadn't considered how that goldenrod color would mesh with my skin. I picked it based on feedback from the previous thread, but desu there's a decent chance I'll go with offwhite or black bc that color is really hard to find without resorting to custom dying. a switching style could be really cute, though! if the bodice does in fact look like hot garbage that's a great backup plan, thanks.

I'd say my sewing is at least past beginner, but my critical eye for the fashion isn't as sharp as it needs to be yet. prints aren't really my forte or preference, I just thought the fabric was cute. I think I can at least make something wearable out of it, but if not then, well, there's no such thing as too much practice.

>>10224159
hobby lobby in the clearance section, surprisingly! they also had some nice ribbed black velveteen.

>> No.10224433

>>10223121
https://mega.nz/#!9PxW1IAC!W3O1fHqCC35kMI9PDV5w21C_iPDIOZEXgGlPXcrtn-U

Here we go! Found the scans. Also here's the link to a bunch of GLB and GosuRori scans. https://chochololita.livejournal.com/ It'd be cool if the next anon who makes a sewing thread would stick these in the OP so we don't have to keep tracking them down.

>> No.10224486
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10224486

>>10224092

Some of the stuff like candies, donuts, maybe that particular star lace and the MM rose lace, it's really obvious that it's copied from burando. But, as with the example here, there's signs that they just made a design knockoff and not a replica, the stars here aren't even properly done as stars. This is pretty much the textbook example for design knockoff, it's so obviously copied and yet also obviously slightly changed up so it's not a direct replica.

I usually just point all these things out and then leave it to whoever's interested whether they want the lace or if they'd rather not. If you want a review, I've bought the star one and it's comparable to AP, quite soft and nicely done. I haven't tested how long before the lace fades though.

With regards to your other question, it's difficult to recommend a lace shop where you can buy everything without looking, because lace shops generally carry all types of lace, so whichever shop it is you'll probably still find they sell cheap raschel as well as expensive nice lace. If you're really lost, just stick to these:
(a)don't pick anything shiny,
(b) avoid raschel lace (until you know what you're doing)
(c) Same with organdy/organza lace, and anyhow they always look shiny, so see (a),
and (d)cotton lace to cotton fabric, poly/tulle lace with poly fabric,
and again, (e)Don't pick anything shiny.

That should be enough to keep you form buying bad lace most of the time.

>> No.10224490
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10224490

>>10224092
I always find ordering lace online to be a gamble. Even different laces from the same shop can vary a lot in quality. When I can, I like to order a small sample before committing to a larger order, but with shipping times on stuff from China, that can be a hassle.

For instance, this is a recent order from the laces.taobao shop. The top & bottom three laces are nice quality, while the second, third and fourth were just okay (the embroidery threads are sort of fuzzy, so the lace has a slightly messy feel). Also, the dot lace (2nd from bottom) is shinier than all the others.

>> No.10224503

>>10224326
Depending on bodice construction, if that fabric is pasted to scale here, it will look like a bunch of cut-off motifs. And if you try yo pattern match or center the motifs, you’ll waste a lot of fabric positioning the fabric pieces. There’s a good reason so much lolita uses border prints for larger motifs with the repeats above it being smaller. It’s hard to make bold motifs look decent on smaller areas like bodices, waist ties, sleeves and straps. Study good lolita prints, they may have a larger motif but the small elements within it can usually stand on those smaller areas without resorting to pattern matching other than to center a motif on the bodice.

>> No.10224511

>>10223656
>>10223769
Thanks for the suggestions, they really helped! I don’t have a FB account, but I’m sure some kind gull could post it there on my behalf once it’s done. It’s probably going to take me a while, since a tutorial like that will have to be picture heavy and contain a lot of information/references.

>> No.10224516

>>10224486
>>10224490
Thank you for the tips

>> No.10224532

>>10224326
Some general design advice based on what you've posted: learn what colors work best on you. Google "what is my undertone" or something like that to get started if you aren't sure. Also keep in mind that prints with many saturated, bold colors can be difficult to pull off in lolita with the exception of bright pastels in sweet or jewel tones. Another consideration is the scale of the pattern. If it's too small it will be overwhelming if you use it for large blocks. This, besides actual quality of fibers, is why quilting prints don't work for lolita. It took me a long time to accept that just because I like a fabric print it doesn't mean it'll work well as a garment so I know where you're coming from. It helps to understand that "things I like" and "good design" don't always 100% overlap and that's ok.

>> No.10224740
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10224740

>>10224503
I'll be looking into brand prints a bit more then before making my next print fabric purchase, you've given me a lot to think about. AP's cream cookie parade was a bit of an inspiration for the coffee fabric choice since it also uses lots of larger motifs (and honestly the op design doesn't seem terribly concerned with the print matching up or even being centered on the bodice), but looking at it again I can see what you mean about the smaller details breaking up the larger aspects. Thanks for the input.

>>10224532
I suppose it comes down to the idea of "just because I can doesn't mean I should." I appreciate the sentiment, though, I know I'm not the only person who's made questionable fabric choices but it's nice to hear from someone who's been in the same boat.

At any rate, probably going to put the coffee dress on the backburner because I went back to hobby lobby today and got the gobelin. the lady sold me nearly five yards for the price of three because she didn't feel like putting the roll away. now I have to decide what to do with it.

>> No.10224797

>>10224740
You have a great attitude! And that gobelin looks lovely and seems to be of a more appropriate scale for clothing. Good luck with your next projects!

>> No.10224816

How could I go about making a fully shirred bodice? Like, 100% shirred. Any patterns and recommendations are very appreciated.

>> No.10225068

>>10224816
Have a look upthread at the otome no sewing scans. I think volume 5 has a shirred OP

>> No.10225069

>>10224816
>>10225068
derp, and Vol. 7 has a shirred JSK.

>> No.10225087
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10225087

>>10224740
That’s a really large repeat, very pretty fabric but also pretty obvious it was meant to upholster larger scale furniture. Maybe a coat or a jsk with a longer skirt and simple square bodice? Lay a bodice pattern full sized over the fabric and see if it can handle that motif without looking chopped?
Pic related, this is a big motif for lolita gobelin but still smaller. Any bigger ones I found had a switching bodice in a velvet color similar to the background color of the gobelin fabric.

>> No.10225097

>>10224816
They usually look so bad though. Why not go larger and do a full back shirred one?

>> No.10225261

>>10225068
>>10225069
Ah, sorry to waste your time. Thanks!
>>10225097
I like how they look, and I always seem to miss out when they're listed secondhand. Should I avoid it?

>> No.10225279

>>10225261
If you like the look, I'd say go ahead

>> No.10225788

What's a good pattern to start with when making lolita stuff? I've made garments before, so I don't think I need to start with a small bag or something since I know I can make that. I've just got no clue where would be a good start for jsks.

>> No.10225803

>>10225788
I've used this with a square skirt:
https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/dresses/new-look-pattern-6553-misses-dress-in-two-lengths/

>> No.10225805

>>10225788
One of the Otome no Sewing books. Get actual lolita patterns and adjust them to fit. There are scans online so you can look to see which one has the most patterns you'll use.

>> No.10225850

>>10225805
I forgot the blog with the instructions on how to translate the OnS patterns, anybody remember ?

>> No.10228414

Has anyone ever actually made something using McCall's 2112 (Charm School?) I'm not a fan of the colours they used on the example but wanted to see what other lolitas made with it

>> No.10228512

I need opinions! I'm going to make a three tiered gingham skirt, with three different sizes of gingham (all the same colour though). Should I go smallest at the top or biggest? I'm thinking smallest at the top to biggest at the bottom but wanted other opinions.

>> No.10228539

>>10225850

http://jessiedressesup.blogspot.com/2015/11/otome-no-sewing-sizing-up.html


Someone pointed out that her numbers don't really add up, but as far as the idea goes I think it's still a good one.

Additionally, for those C cups and above, I recommend measuring the patterns before you start and doing a full bust adjustment, quite often I find their busts are quite flat and their waists a bit big.

>> No.10228540
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10228540

>>10228512

I like smallest at the top too, but I also want to suggest that you can draw it out and then see what would theoretically look like, and then decide from there.

At least gingham is pretty easy to draw by hand, you don't need to do a full Imai Kira copy (she fills in the designs with a scan/copy of the actual fabric print, I believe).

>> No.10228602
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10228602

>>10228540
I didn't even think of that...

So I whipped open Photoshop (forgive the base skirt image being not very lolita) and yes, I think smallest at top is the way to go.

>> No.10228641

>>10228512
Opinions: don't mix gingham sizes. Use real gingham weave fabric for anything lolita not printed checkered crap from the quilt wall. Three tiered skirts aren't ideal for lolita.

>> No.10228644

>>10228539
Her finished clothes don't look or fit very well, I don't think I'd follow her drafting instructions. I'd trace the bust patterns themselves and do slash and spread on bodice patterns, adding bust increase, then measure and multiply for skirt increases in length and width.

>> No.10228654

>>10228641
I don’t agree on the three tiered skirt part. There’s plenty of three tiered skirt patterns in otome no sewing books, as well as brand dresses, and they are all perfectly fine.

>> No.10228656
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10228656

>>10228641
Eh, it's tacky but I like it.

>> No.10228659

>>10228641
I think that it looks nice to mix gingham sizes, like in >>10228656 but it needs to be executed really really well for it to look good. It's probably beyond the skill level of most DIYers, and therefore it is probably still good advice to not mix gingham sizes.

>> No.10228830

>>10228414
I haven't seen anyone use it. I wouldn't recommend touching it.

>> No.10228894

>>10228414
Just took a look at it, the proportions are off enough that you're better using your own bodice and sleeve pattern and just drafting a skirt.

>> No.10229046

>>10225788
What do you want to make? Show a photo of some things you have in mind to make, which pieces, which styles, and tell us your sewing experience and then we can make some pattern recommendations.

>> No.10229203

>>10228512
I own Triple Gingham from Baby, and you might want to go for the same general effect that they did with the gingham sizes.

>> No.10229334

>>10229203
I think I might, after getting opinions here and really looking at my mock-ups the three tiered skirts is a bit too bland

>> No.10229714

>>10228894
I'm still relatively new to sewing, what parts looked wrong to you? I'd like to know what to look for and not to look for when choosing patterns

>> No.10229773

>>10229714
The skirt is too short on both views, the trims are wrong (too idol-costume-y), the suspenders and weird dip in the front of the skirt view are awkward and steamshit-y, the combination of weirdly shaped lapel and double breasted jacket makes the torso awkward, the rivets and chains are very Hot Topic, the peplum-thing disrupts the already low poof silhouette, and the cuffs are too blocky and inelegant.

With all of the issues, you'd be paying pattern prices for a weird jacket that needs hours of modification to make remotely usable, and a very basic box-pleated skirt that needs less modification but still needs work to make it long and adequately poofy. A box-pleated skirt is super easy to draft on your own, and is more otome than lolita.

If you heart's set on the open jacket OP with skirt thing, I'd recommend finding a jacket pattern with a collar and fit that you like, cropping the pattern to the waist, and then adding a lined circle skirt with an open front and maybe a kickpleat to the jacket hem. Also, slash-and spread the sleeve pattern at the top only for a little puff.

For the skirt, just search "how to draft a box-pleated skirt".

I'm no expert, but I am on the internet.

>> No.10230304

>>10224092
Honestly, if you're not in a rush, I'd order from eBay. Hella cheap and you can find lovely stuff on there.
>>10223855
I've looked at cheeptrims again recently and I'm just not impressed. Also lol that their site hasn't changed in like 12 years. Thanks for the kuboriki link, i forgot about them!

>> No.10231149

>>10230304
Are there any eBay sellers or listings you can recommend?

>> No.10233237

What do you do with your leftover lace? I have bunch of laces that have like 5-10~ inches left.

>> No.10233300

>>10233237
I’d make some wristcuffs and other accessories.

>> No.10233307
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10233307

>>10233237

Also accessories, but rather than wristcuffs I lean towards hair accessories and brooches

- lace chokers and bracelets (just put flat ribbon clasps on the ends and decorate the middle so it looks nice)
- trim matching bows
- trim a matching headband (if there's enough of it)
- trim a matching bag with it, especially if you have a fair amount of leftover fabric too (I like to use the print fabric as lining and use a heavier solid fabric as the outside, so the set doesn't look too 'homemade')
- if you make a simple flat bag (and trim it with the lace) you can hang it off your hanger and put the matching headbows, detachable bits and bobs that go with the dress in it so the set is always kept together.
- make brooches out of it (you don't need to make them like pic related, if you have enough, just make them like rosettes, using lace instead of ribbon, and glue something into the centre of it)
- For that matter you could make a lace rose and use it however.
- if you have the right amount and the lace is the right shape, you can glue it to a hair pin or barette, and then glue other things on top of it.

You don't really need to use up every single bit of lace to match the dress -- there's only so many matching bows and headbands and brooches that you can put with a dress. Save up the rest, the next time you make a dress that needs a lace brooch you can pull out your stash and use them up.

>> No.10233417
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10233417

What diameter of wire is most suitable for creating eye pins? I'd like to create a pearl link chain like pic related. I've watched a couple of Youtube tutorials. But they don't specify what mm wire to use.

>> No.10233440

>>10233237

Someone in the other thread is talking about sock toppers, so yeah you could use the lace for that.

>> No.10233916

Otome no Sewing 14 preorder is up on amazon.co.jp! I smashed that buy button.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/%E4%B9%99%E5%A5%B3%E3%81%AE%E3%82%BD%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0BOOK14-%E3%83%AC%E3%83%87%E3%82%A3%E3%83%96%E3%83%86%E3%82%A3%E3%83%83%E3%82%AF%E3%82%B7%E3%83%AA%E3%83%BC%E3%82%BA/dp/4834748677/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=%E4%B9%99%E5%A5%B3%E3%81%AE%E3%82%BD%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0&qid=1564735770&s=gateway&sr=8-2

>> No.10233956

>>10233916
tfw ive been too intimidated to try any of the patterns.... even tho i own like 6 books...

>> No.10233962

>>10233956
What are you intimidated by, Anon? If it’s the Japanese, maybe you could start with one of those patterns with a step-by-step photo walkthrough. I don’t speak any Japanese but after looking up some basic sewing terms like “machine stitch”, “elastic” and “interfacing” I’ve found those pretty easy to follow. It also really helps if you have general sewing experience because most of the steps are just common sense.

>> No.10234037
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10234037

Does anyone have a pattern similar to Penelope's from Burda? I've been searching for it but I can't find
no need to be free, I only need it to be digital.

>> No.10234038

>>10233916
Are there any other preview photos out besides the diner set?

>> No.10234039
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10234039

>>10234038
There's this one from insta from a while ago too. Boutique_Sha oftens posts pics when the release is near

>> No.10234044

>>10234039
>yesss, now stand up and do the same position honey

>> No.10234060

Does anyone have any suggestions for a hat maker starting out?
Free tutorials and videos would be great, but I would also love any book suggestions.

>> No.10234065

>>10234060
I know for a fact that "hat making" is a thing in the UK, even young people doing it for a living. Maybe look what's going on over there? It's probably some degenerate putting all kinds of shit in a hat, but maybe there's still someone with actual skill.

>> No.10234082

Anyone know where I can commision/produce custom lace and fabric patterns from?

>> No.10234091

>>10234082
Spoonflower

>> No.10234101

>>10234082
https://www.luckyweaving.com/pages/custom-made-ribbons-trims
Seems to do some decent lace trims.

>> No.10234181

Any good crochet patterns for wristcuffs? I really need some good wine ones

>> No.10234284

>>10234181
I think your best bet would be to look up a rectangular shawl or doily and just make a small portion of it. There's a lot more variety to choose from than if you look for specifically wristcuffs.

>> No.10234508

>>10224092
Do aliexpress! I buy laces from them a lot, cheap but good quality and free shipping, if you can wait for two or three weeks for shipment

>> No.10237096
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10237096

If you can recommend 3 OnS volumes, which ones would they be?

>> No.10237204

If you’re looking to buy, one book is usually enough to fill a wardrobe and keep you sewing for a good while, if you aren’t after anything specific. I’d just be careful with earlier volumes as they can be harder to find.

That said, I think the A-line dress only appears in Volume 7, Best Collection, or older gosurori. So if you want that pattern, then Best Collection is easier to find and also gives you some nice patterns from vols 4-7.

As for my personal favorites, I like 13 for the variety. Even though it does rehash some old patterns, it covers: a sack dress, old school, underbust jsk, fully shirred, unshirred, nurse/meido, kitten ears, q-lolita, military (the bandgirl outfit), capes, cage skirt. Good book to have for a whole year, you could have a different style with every dress. Maybe not a good idea if you’re after a small capsule wardrobe, though.

Volume 11 did a layer-up concept that I thought was done the best out of 5, 6, 11 and 12. There’s two decent sets, take Tommelise/Thumbelina for eg. You can start with underskirt + blouse to a meet up. JSK + blouse for your next. Then underskirt + blouse + jsk (bustled). Then underskirt + blouse + jsk + lace vest/gilet. You build a more complex coord as you go, but you don’t need to wait until you’re done sewing all the pieces to start wearing it. Volume 12, 5 and 6 have layered outfits as well but you usually need to complete 85% before you can wear it.

The rest depends on your interest. Volume 9 has two cutsew tops and two cutsew dresses, although it’s not the only volume with cutsews, just the most. Volume 10 has military and qilolita. Volume 11 has the one wa-lolita cut. Volume 4 has a rabbit bag from scratch and a yukata. Volume 3 has a hoodie with rabbit ears or sailor collar. Volume 1 has a bustier. Pick the one that suits your personal interest.

>> No.10237278

>>10237204 is in reply to >>10237096

Whoops, didn't realise the comment didn't quote correctly.

>> No.10237279

>>10237096
That would depend entirely on what kind of style or pieces you are looking for.
For me it's 1, 5 & 7, they are great if you like Classic or more versatile pieces that will work for several substyles. I own all the volumes though, there's usually something in every issue that is worth making. Plus it's fun to collect them. I suggest you look at the scans and pick the volumes you like best. If they are sold out you can probably still find them on Japanese 2ndhand market. Those two best collection volumes are also worth picking up if you aren't looking for something specific and don't care about collecting the volumes.

>> No.10237443

Do you ever find yourself having to upsize patterns from OnS? Is it easy to calculate how much to increase?

>> No.10237782
File: 1.22 MB, 1800x2340, scan0094_english.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10237782

>>10237443

Someone translated OnS volume 1, including the last two pages (which is always these two pages, on how to make the patterns bigger/smaller).

I've just started realising where I need to adjust patterns, unfortunately I mostly need a full bust adjustment (FBA), so looks like I'm going to guess where the bust line is and do that differently from these.

>> No.10237783
File: 946 KB, 1800x2330, scan0095_english.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10237783

>>10237782

second page

>> No.10237789

>>10237443
I fit the M size so no, but grading patterns is not as simple as just enlarging a pattern in all dimensions. ONS patterns often don't have an indication of where the original bust/waist/hip line is and you have to self draft half the patterns anyway. If you have a good understanding of basic patterns, drafting and pattern shapes and don't fit their sizing the books are not really worth it; lolita patterns are some of the simplest shit out there.

>> No.10238094
File: 602 KB, 2000x2543, 91CJzxN1+gL.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10238094

I love the fabric color they chose for this.

>> No.10238224 [DELETED] 

>>10223179
This is not gobelin, it looks like cheap upholstery fabric. Gross.
Nice print, but shit material.

>> No.10238270
File: 14 KB, 236x388, wa.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10238270

I want to make something Wa. I'm going for black/white/grey as my colors, cause monochrome is hard to do wrong.
The skirt's going to be pleated black with white lace, pretty standard stuff.
The top is going to be grey. Would it be wise to go for a grey kimono fabric or stick with solids? Should I buy a kimono and fold it so the bottom doesn't show? It's hard to find but I feel like it would be worth it if i could find a half length sleeve with something nice at the bottom.

>> No.10238307
File: 235 KB, 938x829, tumblr_nyp086wamh1ulvj4to2_1280.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10238307

>>10238270

Sorry for the block of text. There's a lot of options you could go with so I tried to cover a few different things.

If you make a seperate skirt and top/bustier, you'd be able to swap out the grey top for a kimono top and have both your options. Alternatively, I'd go for a jsk; you can always add a haori on top or re-cut a kimono into a blouse with kimono sleeves to wear under the jsk (this would even be a good use for those stained kimonos that go for cheap). You're not really limited to finding existing kimonos either, you can pick up one of those yukata-making books and make your own kimono top as well, though that would mean no lovely half-length sleeve pattern.

As for the top, it's hard to say what colour/design the top should be when we don't know the rest of the dress design, especially I'm not really sure what patterned fabric you're using. Something like seigaiha, asanoha, sashiko would be so subdued you could do do either a solid black top or patterned fabric and it would work either way. Something like a black fabric with a colourful print could be too loud without a solid top, but if you only make the skirt colourful it might be visually bottom heavy, it may need a solid top with colourful accents.

If you want more ideas than Meta, you can look up other wa dresses made by Qutie Frash, Millefleur, kerashop.

I'd just be careful about using actual kimono fabric, they're generally only ~36cm wider, which severely limits your patterning options. If it's old the dyes may be unstable as well, and if it's silk you'll want to think about using other fabric that can be drycleaning along with the silk. I'd personally go with a Japanese print fabric, if you're worried about accidentally picking a Weepanese fabric, you can either find a shop that will tell you where the fabric came from, or stick to ordering from Nippori-Tomato (it's an actual Japanese fabric store, so anything wa in it caters to Japanese people and not tourist gaijin)

>> No.10238349

>>10237789

On the flipside, pattern-drafting is almost a whole different skillset in itself. I think there's still some value for those intermediate beginners who aren't totally novices nor skilfully advanced to get the books, if only to see how the patterns should look like and to see how some of the dresses are put together. In particular all the items are targeted at casual hobbyists, so at the very least you can be certain you don't start a project and then find out halfway through that it's far more complicated than you thought it would be.

imo, if you're only a handful of inches off from the measurements anyway you don't really need to draft the patterns from scratch. A lot of the dresses are kind of loose fit anyhow, there's very few items where the dresses need to be absolutely perfectly fitted to your body.

>> No.10238352
File: 38 KB, 800x800, stainless-steel-Gold-Color-9-Shape-Eye-Pin-Head-Pins-DIY-Accessories-Craft-For-Jewelry-Making.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10238352

>>10233417
I've made a rosary before, i just got a bunch of these eye pins, add the pearl and twist a new eye whilst linking the next pin. It's painstaking and you need to make sure to close them well or your hair will snag into them when wearing.

>> No.10238354
File: 56 KB, 329x676, 20190810_190502.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10238354

I mead this today. First handmade Lolita skirt

>> No.10238371
File: 57 KB, 300x467, jewelrywiregaugeconversionchart.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10238371

>>10233417
in my experience, diameter is only important if you're planning to hang a heavy charm from the finished chain. Look for 12 to 16 gauge wire if that's the case. Otherwise 18-20 gauge wire should be fine. Listings for eyelets like >>10238352 should note the gauge. You want to make sure the wire isn't too thick to fit through the opening in your bead, too!

Note that you'll need to cut the ends of the eye pin if you get the really long ones, which can leave a sharp edge that snags on stuff if you do it wrong. I find it helpful to look for eye pins that are about the length of my bead + 12-15 mm, which gives me just enough extra wire to make the second loop once I put the bead on.

This website is designed for rosary makers but has decent step-by-step photos of the process for making bead chains: https://www.rosarymakersguide.org/eyepinsjumpringschain.htm

>> No.10238379

>>10238094

Well, now I'm properly excited. I feel like I've been waiting for a pattern like this since the "Antoinette" knockoff in Volume 10 that I didn't really like.

Thanks for posting! I preordered but haven't checked back to see what the cover looks like.

>> No.10238380

>>10238094
Wow I love the sleeves here. I'll preorder It soon!

>> No.10238401

Do any of the OnS booka have patterns for a bibbed dress?

>> No.10238426
File: 176 KB, 1600x1200, kagome.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10238426

>>10238307
Thanks for the wall of text. All info is useful. I'll be wearing it to an event for Obon. Just got short notice I'd be going there.
I was looking at some old Kagome pictures, so It's more like pic related than the meta jsks. I plan on a kansashi or a beret or something. Nothing too big. I was thinking about using the kimono fabric only for the top. Making it half length, basically a short cut kimono.

>> No.10238440

>>10238401
The red long sleeve OP in volume 2 has a bib (if we're talking about the same thing).

>> No.10238581
File: 124 KB, 611x800, 60d8558c4c872b9e5d1eeebba372a318277be0a1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10238581

>>10238426

If you want to copy that look with the printed sleeves and all, I'd suggest narrowing down your kimono choices to houmongi or tsukesage, they're the ones most likely to have this kind of sleeve painted with motifs. The downside is it's formal wear, so it usually isn't cheap, though you might get lucky with a damaged one. It's much easier to buy a ready-made used kimono and simply tie it higher as per her walkthrough, rather than buy a tanmono and try to make your own short kimono, especially with houmongi/tsukesage usually being laid out differently on a bolt.

It's kind of rare to find normal fabric (ie- not a tanmono) that has the right layout for these kinds of sleeves, and with an all-over pattern the design might be too big or too loud for the monotone effect you want.

If you want to go with a solid colour (black or grey), or a jacquard or some low-contrast patterns, then it might look too boring, as you're basically going to be two large blocks of solid colour with very little interest. But, you can add a little interest by using a colourful collar under the kimono top and adding something colourful to your waist (eg an obijime or a brooch). Sort of similar to this (though I imagine you'd want less contrast than this).

>> No.10238623

>>10238426
>>10238581
You can find dirt cheap kimono on ebay auctions, and sometimes the only damage is a few stains on the lining or something small like that. The seller I like to buy from is sou_japan.

Also will mention that a friend of mine really likes wa and she made a half-length kimono for herself to wear under dresses and skirts. I don't remember if it was from a bolt of fabric or a damaged kimono, because she's altered/sewn her own things so many times.

>> No.10238887

>>10237782
>>10237783
Exactly my problem too, bust adjustments. Thank you so much!

>> No.10238905
File: 236 KB, 971x543, tumblr_p7a0igLaXo1r9jpamo1_1280.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10238905

Do scans of OnS 8-13 exist?

>> No.10238906

>>10238905
Not on the net

>> No.10238939

>>10238905
Complete, no. Scans of the color pages but no black/white pages with instructions.
You can find them here: https://misscarolbelle.wordpress.com/tag/otome-no-sewing/

>> No.10238982

Is making a pattern off of an item I already own a bad idea?

>> No.10238998

>>10238982
It's called pattern copying, and it can be tricky if you don't want to disassemble the original garment, but it's a good idea in general.

>> No.10239034

Where do you all end up buying your Otome no Sewing?
I usually buy mine on Amazon Japan. The pro is that the process is very smooth and they ship through DHL, so it usually arrives here in about 3 days. The cons are the price of the shipping method.

Last time I tried buying through CD Japan. The shipping was cheaper, but it took around two months to arrive lol so... well.

I've been considering waiting until they release 2 or 3 volumes and then buying them through Mercari / YJP, when I can get it cheaper and through a SS.

>> No.10239035

>>10238998

Thanks, anon. I'm going to start simple until I figure out wtf I'm doing

>> No.10239098
File: 183 KB, 744x1024, ots7-011.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10239098

Is this pattern from OnS 7 in the compilation book?

>> No.10239108

>>10239034
I've been buying them from CDJapan from the beginning. What shipping method did you use? I always pick airmail and it arrives in less than 2 weeks usually.

>> No.10239174

>>10239098

This seller has pictures of the patterns included
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Handmade-Lolita-Fashion-Otome-no-Sewing-Book-Best-Collection-Japanese-Book-New-/183812164905

There's a gap between no. 34 and no. 39 though.

>> No.10239260

>>10239034

If you want them cheaper through a SS, rakuten books also sells them, well, assuming your SS can do rakuten books.

I get mine through kinokuniya, am able to flip through them in person, too, but there isn't much savings, they jack up the price so it costs just a bit under what it costs to get them from amazon jp anyway.

>> No.10239363

>>10239174
Thank you!
Anyone know why OnS 7 is so expensive? I love ETC so I see a lot in that issue I want but the price is weirdly inflated compared to the others.

>> No.10239410
File: 967 KB, 1275x1755, tumblr_otzispDY7a1wwgx1io1_1280.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10239410

>>10239363

They're mooks to begin with, not books that get republished, so supply is somewhat limited. A lot of the older volumes are also officially out of print and no longer being sold as well.

For volume 7 I think it's the A-line dress that most girls like above everything else in other volumes, practically every classic lolita brand has a similar A-line dress so it's certainly a popular cut, makes sense it's also the cut they decide to reproduce for Best Selection.

Almost everything else in 7 you can probably find a similar pattern in another volume of OnS. For >>10239098 you could try this pattern in volume 6 and add the frills and bonbons yourself. For the bonbons you could google for tutorials, or here's a random one: http://jessicacorlett.com/fabricbonbonsweets/

>> No.10240299

Anyone have advice on telling good quality raschel lace from bad? I'm guessing size of the netting & shininess?

I know people generally say to avoid raschel but personally I love the look.

>> No.10240303

>>10240299

Stiffness. Raschel lace is highly avoided because the cheap shit sticks out from your dress (it's basically plastic and really, really, really wants to lie straight rather than drape) and it's darn itchy. It's actually a very practical reason to avoid it, it doesn't just look like cheap shit, it's stupid itchy and uncomfortable af.

Although if it's shiny where it's not meant to be (ie it isn't metallic, just very shiny), definitely avoid that too.

>> No.10240448

Does anyone sell their handmade items? What selling platform do you use; Facebook group(s), Etsy, Storenvy, etc? How do you promote your brand?

I'd like to start selling the headwear accessories I make. I've created a Facebook and IG page. But I'm not sure which platform people would prefer to purchase from? I don't really know how to promote my "brand", other than posting on IG and FB.

>> No.10240610

Honest question, why do people need patterns? I always drafted my own patterns and it's not more difficult than following a ready pattern imo. Are there any advantages I don't know?

>> No.10240625

>>10240610
Saves a lot of time using patterns. And not everybody knows how to draft.

>> No.10240657

>>10240448
When I did (which was years ago) I used Etsy. It's good because you can get sales from normies who just happen to want a headbow as well as the lolita market.

>> No.10240664

>>10240610
Drafting takes fucking ages for anything more complex than a simple skirt or bodice+skirt dress and you can easily fuck up each time you make an alteration to a block to turn it into a pattern and then have to laboriously repeat each step again. For a jacket, coat, or blouse I would 100% want a pattern because it's likely had some of the fit troubleshooting done already as opposed to flat drafting. Obviously if you have a major scoliosis, swayback or other fit issues that mean that you need to hugely adjust standard patterns there may not be a significant amount of difference between drafting and alterations to commercial patterns, but otherwise it's hugely time saving.

>> No.10240753

>>10240610

Same, changing weight means it's much faster to use a pattern and grade between sizes rather than draft it from scratch every single time I want to make a totally different dress cut than before.

But additionally, I also find it useful to see what the patterns should actually look like, and instructions on how to put it together. Again, basic blouses and dresses are easy, how do I put together this minihat? How many layers goes into a petticoat, how long does each tier have to be? How wide is too wide for a tent dress, I want to look cute and not like I'm actually a tent. Does one sew a shirring channel for a wristcuff or nah? What does the pattern for bloomers really look like, is it ok to just make them wider or should the bottom be puffier so get that poofy pants look? How wide is too wide, I don't want a deflated balloon around my bottom. And so on, etc.

I have a full time job and not enough time to be mucking about with the sewing machine all day, so it's nice to have someone provide a shortcut with all the kinks worked out of it.

For otome no sewing in particular there's also the feeling that there's very few lolita publications left, so collecting one mook a year is a nice thing to do as well.

>> No.10240803

>>10240610
Depends on what you're making, as others have said - you don't really need a pattern for a tiered gathered skirt, pleated rectangle skirt etc.

That said, one of the main advantages of working from patterns (at least to start with) is that it gives you a good grounding in basic dressmaking skills. For some people who have never worked from commercial patterns (and I'm not saying this applies to you) there is a huge lack of knowledge of basic skills, or even being able to spot if the fit of a garment is way off. I was pretty horrified when I was watching some videos by a lolita who used to run her own indie brand and offer brand alterations, to find that she didn't bother to check the grainline of pieces she was cutting out, didn't get what a facing was (on a brand dress she owned), couldn't understand why a seam had come apart when she had cut it pretty close without finishing the seam allowances, and so on.

>> No.10240810

>>10240610
When I'm making clothes for myself, I tend to draft my own patterns. But if the person has bigger measurements than mine (I mean, 50cm+ my own) I prefer to have other patterns as a reference to draft it with more confidence.

>> No.10240988

>>10240803

To be fair, you can get a lot of those things from a really good sewing book. Most patterns I've used actually don't really explain what a grain is and why you should go looking for it.

Though I kind of suppose it's easier to go in with the idea of making something and then look things up, rather than pick up a sewing encyclopedia and try to memorise all the chapters.

>> No.10241178
File: 2.58 MB, 4128x2322, 20190816_001616.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10241178

>>10223179

very rough wip. nothing has been ironed and no seams are finished yet, this is mostly just a fit check. can't really move forward until some lace I'm waiting on arrives. I'm going to be using black cluny bc I love the look of old floral gobelin dresses with the stark contrast of black detailing. it's short now but there's going to be a ruffle that will add several inches to the bottom.

as >>10225087 pointed out the pattern is quite large, but I'm a pretty tall and curvy gal so I think it kind of works to my benefit here. pattern matching was a bitch but I think I did alright for a first try. I'll post the finished product whenever I get around to finishing it.

>> No.10241261

Does anyone have an example picture of how bell-shaped skirt works with petticoat/lolita? I've heard it's a bad idea but does it not work even if it's not short skater dress?

>> No.10241290

>>10241178
Very nice looking, anon! I like that you tried to match the pattern on the seams. Hoping to see it finished!

>> No.10241372

sorry for spoonfeed question but what would you guys say is a good small project for someone who's a total moron newbie at sewing (but obviously would like to improve)? would bows or pretty chokers or rosettes be easy enough?

>> No.10241377

>>10241372
Depends on what type of skill you want to start improving.

For sewing, I'd recommend either bloomers or rectangle skirt.You could also try a simple square fabric bag.

For accs making, I guess chokers and bows are a fine start, but these don't necessarily involve sewing skills.

>> No.10241476

>>10241261
What do you mean bell shaped? Do you mean a circle skirt?

>> No.10241648

>>10241476
Yes.

>> No.10241659
File: 108 KB, 640x640, Chinese-Dance-Costumes-Hanfu-Dress-Ancient-Chinese-Tang-Dynasty-Hanfu-Womens-Hanfu-Dresses-for-Stage-Costumes-AA9414CQ-spx0.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10241659

Any ideas on making a dress like this? I'm mainly wondering if the collar needs to be a special shape, or should I just go with a long rectangle and then drape it across the dress and cut it where it lands maybe? A bias cut rectangle would handle curves better, I think?

(Don't mind the non-lolita pic. I couldn't find a qilolita dress showing this collar clearly )

>> No.10241689
File: 49 KB, 430x700, f5f4ec2a8c2bfae666c463d1d4b3244f.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10241689

>>10241648

>> No.10241697

>>10241178
Nice! I can’t wait to see the finished product.

>>10241689
Did you post this as an example of what not to do?

>> No.10241970

What's a good go to fabric for a plain dress? Polycotton? Cotton?

>> No.10242198

>>10241970
Thick cotton. Cotton is queen in lolita.

>> No.10242200

>>10241697
not that anon, but it's a good example of a circle skirt and a petti

>> No.10242228

>>10241648
desu the reason you don't see it very much because it often doesn't look very good, and it can just end up giving off a square dancing kind of vibe. Idk that I can recall a single example I could link you to. I know decent looking ones exist but it's way harder to pull it off.

>> No.10242275

>>10241970

Polycotton and cotton are both fine, there's a lot more to the fabric than its fibres that decide whether or not it's suitable for lolita. Burando's standard isn't just 100% cotton, it's actually the weave-- cotton twill fabric with a slight sheen. However, finding the right weight of twill that's 100% cotton, isn't too shiny or too matte, isn't too thick to gather into a skirt, it's actually much rarer and harder than you'd think.

What I'd suggest is to go into a fabric store and touch everything, then buy what you like.

In particular you want to avoid the cheap cotton broadcloth that behaves like paper -- it drapes poorly (like paper) and wrinkles too easily, so it's hard to get a good silhouette, and the weave is coarse (it always looks so cheap). It may be 100% cotton but it's guaranteed to look like a cheap diy project.

Other than that (and avoid all polyester fabric, at least until you get a feel for which ones are low quality and won't breathe well), anything that drapes like a skirt should, isn't too shiny, and looks and feels nice, should work.

>> No.10242284

>>10223121
I have an op with a weird tight neckline and a peter pan collar... does anyone have any suggestions for altering this? Maybe a squareneck or something???

>> No.10242288

>>10242275
Thank you so much! I did wonder what the blend was on dresses. Im sure theres a fabric store still remaining in town...I'll check! But last time I checked it was mostly cheap stretch fabrics, stiff netting and poorly repeating printed polycotton.

>> No.10242290

>>10242228
Okay. I kinda want to have this >>10241689 wavy look on the skirt. I guess I’ll just have to try it.

>> No.10242297

>>10242290
This is more than a circle, probably two circles together. Put fishing wire or horsehair braid in the hem if you want that clamp volume in the ruffles.

>> No.10242299
File: 573 KB, 1280x1351, c78041be072d3fd893bde1be33ae2dd6.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10242299

>>10242297
dropped pic, you can also make it three circles if you want even more, it will require math though

>> No.10242303
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10242303

>>10242290
https://lolibrary.org/items/btssb-cummerbund-circular-skirt

This is also a circle skirt, in the lolita (and not maid) style.

>> No.10242304
File: 38 KB, 645x645, 7B80842B-8BA0-450E-9D31-46D87F498718.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10242304

>>10242303

>> No.10242990
File: 456 KB, 1448x2048, EB7U4qqUwAAx8HJ.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10242990

Tulle x Otome no Sewing are hosting an event ; collab, it seems? I can't read it, so it's here for those who can: https://tulle.spaceshower.jp/posts/6756996

>> No.10243074

>>10241659
if it will have the shoulder and sleevehole that is similar to the photo, then cut those out as you would on that side of the peice, then fit it and mark where you would want the neckline edge to be. You are correct about using the bias for the most amount of stretch; however it is also an option for one with curves to still go along the straight grain and have a more specific line from the results of the fitting. If you're concerned about the item fitting for a longer term, the straight grain would hold up better over time

>> No.10243083

>>10242290
Horse hair braid in the hem will give it that look. Its more common for cosplay than for lolita tho.

>> No.10243265

>>10243074

I have the bodice and sleeves figured out, just wondering what shape the collar should be.

So if I'm reading your comment right I could also make a mockup and mark where I want the collar to fall, then trace the pattern from there? It's an interesting idea and would help the collar not stretch too much.Thanks.

>> No.10243332
File: 250 KB, 1120x873, 5eac603f98ee03c6367991d224f7bacf_67743689d0a72a529a5af55616b626d5.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10243332

>>10242990

You can pop the links into google translate and it'll translate for you (if you're on mobile, request the desktop site) :

==========================
tulle x Otome no Sewing BOOK Presents “Namaiki tonight ” Vol.3 will be held!

"Tulle" x "Otome no Sewing BOOK" presents cute and fun event "Namaiki tonight " will be held soon! This time there will be a drink & bar time as an exchange party after the product sales time, so please enjoy it to the end If you love a cute world, please come and visit us ! Participating creators and participating brands are also looking for!

■ Admission fee: 500 yen including tax (only reception on the day)
Namiki Ribbon original postcards will be presented on a first-come-first-served basis!

● Dress Code: Summer party style!
Please wear clothes and accessories that image a summer party.

■ Participating members:
Akio Futaki, SAKU, Bisuko Esaki, conpeitou.
Brand (RoseMarie seoire, Enchantlic Enchantilly, Cendrillon Project, Udakyo etc.)
A handmade writer, tulle models may come to play too? !
Tulle production staff, Maiden's sewing book production staff, etc. will be announced as soon as they are decided!


■ Content:
・ Costrilling and photo shoots by Cendrillon Project
Experience the idol and princess feeling in a cute costume designed and produced by the Candrillion Project!
・ Product sales booth (handmade and other product sales, new product sales, flea market, etc.)
・ Introducing new brand works (such as try-on and reservation meetings)
・ Customer snapshot
・ Exhibition of items on Sewing Book of Otome
・ Video shooting and distribution in the venue (planned)
・ Tulle magazine, official website, SNS photography & video photography
・ Free exchange meetings
* Contents are subject to change.
==========================


(I've never heard of Cendrillon Project -- anybody care to fill me in?)

>> No.10243360
File: 212 KB, 700x933, cendrillon.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10243360

>>10243332
I hadn't heard of Cendrillon Project either. Tulle has a page about it: https://tulle.spaceshower.jp/posts/6795371

Google translate tells me "It is a new costume production brand created to meet a wide range of needs in the genre of costumes, including idol costumes, stage costumes, and costume design in web games.".

The designer is Hiroko Tokumine of "Hiroko Tokumine Lolita wedding".

>> No.10243425

>>10223121
I made a dress with 2 inchs wide full lenght box pleats, could that type of cut work with a bell/cupcake petti ( I wanted to make one )?

>> No.10244602
File: 9 KB, 253x377, 68272283_10157502166509722_1033753363486867456_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10244602

Does anyone have any tips on adjusting OnS patterns? I want to widen the patterns. I saw a tutorial using some sort of calculations but my English is not that good and it got confusing.

>> No.10244659

>>10243332
funny how they took bodyline pieces and made them look even more like horrible newbie costumes.

>> No.10244859

>>10244602

Isn't that what these posts are?

>>10237782
>>10237783

There is this blogpost as well:
http://jessiedressesup.blogspot.com/2015/11/otome-no-sewing-sizing-up.html

>> No.10245898

What is used to line bonnets to prevent droop? Could horse hair braid work?

>> No.10245934

>>10245898
Buckram is what you want

>> No.10245966

>>10244602
You'll probably want to look up a tutorial for resizing sewing patterns in your native language then because it's all math, there aren't really many shortcuts.

>> No.10245967

>>10242200
This isn't lolita and the skirt isn't long enough to cover the "petti" so this is a terrible example actually

>> No.10245973

>>10245898
Seconding >>10245934. You may also want to wire the edge of the bonnet too.

>> No.10245976

What's the best method for creating a detachable feather? I had thought of a brooch pin and floral tape. But it looks rather unsightly and I don't really want to incorporate the feather as a part of a removable corsage– e.g. hide the base of the feather behind flowers. Any ideas?

>> No.10245999

>>10245934
>>10245973
Thank you!

>> No.10249338
File: 1.21 MB, 2048x2048, 81AACFA7-A750-48A4-99A9-0DB730565C0E.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10249338

So normies loved this yesterday at DragonCon, but I know it's an ita mess. I kind of don't care that it's an ita mess, but I do feel like it is missing something.

(Granted, I left both the headbow and the chest bow I made in a bag at home, but I actually don't think they would improve the situation much.)

(Also I tried to make the shoes and sock situation as EGL as possible, but there's only so much that can be done considering my health issues and the schedule for the day. And I wouldn't wear this to a proper meetup ever, but it would look adorable with my triple strap velvet black heels.)

I have more of the video game controller fabric, as well as a plain neon/bright green that matches the print pretty much dead on.

Maybe a solid black waistband with lace edging and print or green piping? Black scalloped lace in a faux corset detail on the front? More of the black piping above the dot lace on the hem? Move the dot lace up onto the skirt and add a sheer ruffle to the bottom? I think I'm open to almost any detail addition as long as it's black, controller print, or green. I've tried adding white detail to this and it just looks weird to me.

Gonna post this in Lolita Sewing Collective as well.

>> No.10249359

I'm so anxious for the previews of this next issue of OnS!

>> No.10249361

>>10249338
Anon, the biggest problem here is the fabric. The color is just too saturated / neon for it to look harmonious, unless you're planning in doing a cyberpunk coord haha (no).

I'd suggest anything that could "break " the brightness, like making the side panels of the bodice in black and adding a black overskirt like a curtain (I'm on the cellphone rn but check Haenuli's One more Bite to see what I'm talking about).

Or you could make a black see through overdress and put it over it to make it less shiny.

Also, on the middle and right pics it looks very frumpy on the waist area. Try adjusting the size of the dress to your measurements .

>> No.10249362

>>10249338
Ah, one more thing, the straps are too large here. Try making it more delicate or make it a puffed sleeve (in black)

>> No.10249367
File: 43 KB, 570x564, il_570xN.1573708364_ciee.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10249367

>>10249338
Nothing about this really says lolita aside from the dress's silhouette. To pull off something like this and make it feel like it fits with lolita style, you need to pay attention to details. Your hair is gorgeous but unstyled, the blouse is really normie and leaves your chest bare, and your accessories are really minimal. The footwear I get because of health and long con days, but that does mean the rest of your look needs to be polished to compensate.

Look for those resin game controller charms that pop up on aliexpress and etsy (you can also get a mold to make them yourself, if you work with resin, but they're cheap enough to buy pre-made too). They'd work for making accessories or using as an accent on bows. You could even do fake "buttons" down the front of the bodice with them, or bows with a charm in the center.

Please don't do fake corset lacing, it rarely looks good on handmade and will overwhelm an already busy print.

Also, you may want to censor your name - it's visible on the badge in the center photo at full size.

>> No.10249390

>>10249361

I said it was an ita mess, didn't I? I just love this fabric and loved wearing it. I'm definetly going to do thinner straps and wear a black blouse next time (I have a black cotton blouse and am kicking myself for forgetting it.)

I also like the side panels and overskirt ideas (although I'll never wear this anything but casually so an overskirt might be a little bit too much). But I want surprises by the 'shiny' comment. Where are you seeing the shine? The fabric is quilting cotton.

I see the frump too, this is actually the first dress I've made totally on my own and the bodice gave me a lot of issues. My waist is 76, bust 103, BUT I'm only an a-cup. I had to take in the center panel 1 1/2 inches at the FOLD to even get the seams somewhat near the right spot. If it weren't for the shirring panel in the back I would probably still be crying over my machine.

>> No.10249391
File: 142 KB, 650x975, long-ears-and-sharp-ears-beautiful-lolita-overskirt-10.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10249391

>>10249361
>>10249338
I mentioned "Just one more bite" but I was wrong, it doesn't have the curtain (pic related) overskirt. That asset, though, would only work for you if your blouse and coord were a bit more detailed, leaning towards the ott.

anyway, I'd suggest you to either change the fabric or find a way to make it less neon.

>> No.10249396

>>10249390
>But I want surprises by the 'shiny' comment. Where are you seeing the shine?
Sorry, I guess I used the wrong word in English. By "shiny" I meant "neon color" or "too bright".

>I see the frump too, this is actually the first dress I've made totally on my own and the bodice gave me a lot of issues. My waist is 76, bust 103, BUT I'm only an a-cup. I had to take in the center panel 1 1/2 inches at the FOLD to even get the seams somewhat near the right spot. If it weren't for the shirring panel in the back I would probably still be crying over my machine.

Did you use an OnS pattern? If so, you can try transforming the center panel (is it a rectangle?) into a trapezium, so it will make your waist thinner and the chest larger,

>> No.10249397

>>10249338
I think a solid black waistband would look nice, and if you really want more detail on the bodice you could maybe do three rococo-style bows. I wouldn’t do corset lacing because that would look too busy. Stick to black accents, you definitely don’t need any more neon green. I second >>10249361’s suggestion of black panels or something else to break up the busy print.

>> No.10249398

>>10249367

Thanks for the heads up on the name being visible! But I gave up on privacy long ago, lol.

I do have a black blouse with lace sleeves and a high neck at home, and I am kicking myself for forgetting about it. (It needs to be taken in a LOT.) I will definitely wear that next time.

My hair is always an issue. It won't hold a curl to save it's life, I can't wear wigs because they make me overheat, and braids just look REAL dumb with my potato face. I'm trying to figure out simple ways to style it so I don't get too worn out, but it's something I never remember I need to work on until I'm actually getting ready.

I wore minimal accessories because I considered this a casual coord. I did forget my Game Boy purse at home.

Those little resin controllers are SO cute! I love both the button and the headbow ideas for those. Black for the buttons, right?

>> No.10249401
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10249401

>>10249396
I've been using New Look 6457 as a bodice base, replacing the back panels with shirring and doing a gathered rectangle skirt. The front panel is already a trapezoid. It's the curves on the front side panels that I need to figure out or eliminate completely -- for my chest size, pattern makers assume you have a decent amount of breast, but mine is mostly ribcage. (And some fat, not gonna lie.)

I probably do need to adjust the angle of the other panels from the top line to the waist as well, but I also have some body dysmorphia issues so I always cut just a little bit extra on every seam which, as we all know but my stupid brain won't admit, means everything ends up too big and then I have to adjust and adjust and adjust and then it looks like shit.

I'm also STILL at DragonCon and need to start getting ready for today. So if I end up not replying to anyone else until much later, it's not intentional, just very busy! I'm very excited about improving on this dress and I really like all y'alls ideas so far.

>> No.10249406
File: 730 KB, 1102x766, ons.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10249406

>>10249401
>It's the curves on the front side panels that I need to figure out or eliminate completely -- for my chest size, pattern makers assume you have a decent amount of breast, but mine is mostly ribcage.
So I'd suggest you to try out an OnS, if you can't manage the alterations by yourself for now. my breast measurements are to a minimum, so these are the only ones that, until now, worked for me.

I tried Burda Petite and Simplicity, but the amount of alterations needed for it to fit my figure were just not worth it.

I'll attach a collage of one of the patterns found on ONS2 . See that the curves on the chest area are slightly softer, and that the waist has a curve (don't know the name of it sorry). The instruction may help you get the grasp of it.

>> No.10249418
File: 67 KB, 482x645, 969399_10201097442305321_679328399_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10249418

>>10249338
>>10249401

I just wanted to suggest that if premade patterns always give you fitting issues, you might want to look into drafting your own patterns. Preferably from a proper book and not a free website either, a lot of websites are really skimpy on troubleshooting fit issues if you're not really standard body shape.

As for the overlay, I wanted to point out AP already has some not-so-OTT examples -- >>10248441 and >>10249113 (and Moitie). Though, other anons are right, I'd try not to go too simple because the motif of print is just isn't very hyper feminine the way most lolita is, so you kind of have to make up for it by adding other girlier details rather than going full steam with squarish designs that aren't very "maidenly".

>> No.10249421

I'd like to ask for some info.

I pre-ordered ONS13 on Amazon and bought the ONS12 together with it. They'll ship both together, but the ONS12 is sold-out right now, two weeks after I placed my order.

So, my question is, since I pre-ordered it (they haven't charged me yet, though) will they also ship ons12 or is it sold-out for good?

>> No.10250652

Where can I get bear motif lace? I would prefer taobao but at this point I'll take anything

>> No.10250829

>>10250652
>bear motif lace
https://www.google.com/search?q=bear+motif+lace&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiHw7j0srTkAhWCu54KHUtwAiEQ_AUIEigC&biw=1849&bih=928

>> No.10250833

>>10250829
I know I said I'd take anything but I saw those and they're ugly

>> No.10250850 [DELETED] 
File: 690 KB, 720x1280, Screenshot_20190903-082702.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10250850

>>10250833
Nayrt, but this one is kinda cute

>> No.10250851
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10250851

>>10250833
Nayrt, but these are kinda cute

>> No.10250973

>>10234082
Did a little more research, you can diy custom lace by embroidering onto bridal net with washaway stabilizer, or make it freestanding and embroider directly onto the stabilizer for a venise look

>> No.10251225

>>10250973
Yeah but honestly ain't nobody got time for that, I'm four months into hand embroidering a tulle panel and I hate myself for picking that method. I know Alibaba has options for custom lace, you just need to find a manufacturer with a small enough minimum order since I doubt you need a thousand yards of whatever it is you're looking for

>> No.10251251

>>10251225
There are embroidery machines too. you'd just need to get one of those special "endless hoops" I believe, and then find embroidery software to design the lace. Lot of money/time though so better price and effort wise to commission custom stuff from somewhere. Although if you care about ethics/want the know how to make your own lace on the fly and have the cash to spend it might be worth it.

>> No.10251320

>>10251251
Wish I had one of those, I kinda regret getting a hybrid sewing/embroidery machine rather than a straight sewing machine and saving for a real embroidery machine, it's cool to have both in one but hybrids are limited compared to an embroidery-only machine

>> No.10252304

If I'm making a skirt with a ruffle, the ungathered ruffle should be 2x the length of the finished ruffle right?

>> No.10252309

>>10252304
Depends on the effect you want. For a 240cm width skirt I usually need 600cm width of fabric for the ruffle.

>> No.10252312
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10252312

finallyyyyyyy

>> No.10252313
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10252313

>>10252312

>> No.10252314
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10252314

>>10252313

>> No.10252316

>>10252312
>>10252313
>>10252314
Loving these so much, thanks for sharing!

>> No.10252360

>>10249401
If you're all ribcage, it'll be where your ribcage starts tapering in that needs more adjustment - so you need to make the boob curve component at the top smaller - it's tricky because it's not really a small bust adjustment but probably closer to a large underbust adjustment, and then taper in at the waist more at every seam (rather than taking it out of the centre front fold)

>> No.10252855

Where can I purchase embroidery pendant settings and bezels? I've tried using numerous search terms on Aliexpress. But none of the settings include the bezel plate to mount the embroidery. I have found some on Etsy that are terribly expensive (and boring looking).

>> No.10252910

>>10252316

Seconded. So damn inspirational.

>> No.10255456
File: 3.02 MB, 4128x2322, 20190912_014425.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10255456

>>10241178
small update because I'm on a bit of a rut. my lace finally arrived, but I'm finding that this fabric does not take ruffling very well at all because of its thickness, and I didn't take that into account when planning it out. no matter how evenly I make the ruffles they just stick out awkwardly far or lay weird. maybe I should just iron them down a bit to minimize the poof? should I undo the ruffling and do pleats instead?

>> No.10255472

>>10255456
maybe choose another material to add the ruffles? or maybe a long pretty lace?

>> No.10255503

>>10255456
Maybe go with pleats instead?

>> No.10255520

>>10255456
I don't like the print, but the shape of the dress is adorable, gj grill

>> No.10255523
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10255523

>>10255456
Maybe try to do something like pic related for the ruffles. I personally wouldn't go for pleats for this dress shape. Also don't use black for trimming. I'd go for brown/beige instead.

>> No.10255746

>>10252314
Thanks for sharing. Do you have any more? I can’t decide if it’s worth it yet.

>> No.10255793

>>10255746
Sadly I don't. At this Point I Will just await Carolbelle's Review and scans.

>> No.10255854
File: 37 KB, 700x700, w-49322-00.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10255854

Is there a pattern for a short sleeve blouse with a square neck? Somehting like to this.

I like square neck blouses for gothic but I haven't found anything I really liked lately. Thanks in advance!

>> No.10256531
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10256531

2 more sneak peeks I found. Last ONS I bought was vol.9, so I can't wait this to arrive. Idk why they chose the ugliest piece for the cover.

>> No.10256533
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10256533

>>10256531

>> No.10256631

>>10256531
Ohhh nice, I have that exact fabric.
Thanks for sharing!

>> No.10256639
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10256639

>>10256533
More

>> No.10256640
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10256640

>>10256639

>> No.10256641
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10256641

>>10256640
Love all of them

>> No.10256828

>>10255456
Iron them before you unpick everything, that will definitely help with how puffy they look. Pleats will look weird, don't do it

>> No.10258037

https://gotadebaunilha.blogspot.com/2019/09/scan-otome-no-sewing-book-14.html
Thorough scans. I think the casual items are really cute, but some of the other coordinates are hideous.

>> No.10258045

>>10258037
thanks for sharing! Those last ones were completely disgusting, a literal rag dress.

The qi piece has some potential with better fabrics, maybe

>> No.10259214

>>10258037
if someone could post the scans of the patterns for chief maid i'd be so happy
does anyone have something similar if not??

>> No.10259227

>>10258037
Really not feeling a lot of the patterns. Dodgy fabric choices aside, some of them look to fit really poorly even based on the style they are going for (floral dress with the long bloomers, looking at you!) and the strap placement for many dresses seems really off as well (although that may have been more of an issue with the choice of placement by seamstress vs model's shoulder width) even though they kinda tried to hide it in photos.

>> No.10259288

>>10259214
You should try asking directly those who have the magazine, though se could Point out some other commercial pattern

>> No.10260304

>>10259214
I don't have OnS 14 but I'm pretty sure I have a similar apron pattern if that helps?

>> No.10260696

reposting here from stupid questions thread:
Is pic related too shiny for lolita? Got it from the bridal fabric section and I hope that it comes across as more of a soft sheen as opposed to weeb costume shiny
Planning to make a skirt to go with a shiro cord if that helps any

>> No.10260698
File: 186 KB, 1130x1323, fab.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10260698

>>10260696
dropped the pic sorry

>> No.10260708

>>10260698
Just from this pic it Looks like cheap satin, so yeah. If you really must to use it, though, I'd suggest layering 啊 sheer fabric over it, like chiffon, for example, so that the shine could be subdued.

>> No.10260764

>>10260698
desu it looks cheap and icky, I would cringe if my dress was made out of that.

>> No.10261090

>>10260304
yes id really like something similar please, thank you!

>> No.10261103

>>10234065
I don't have any good tutorial recommendations but for inspo look at Cloudberry Lady. She's a European hat maker who does a lot of fine handiwork

>> No.10263972
File: 264 KB, 412x368, joann mummy.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10263972

Saw pic related at joann and I kind of want to make a Round And Round knock off. Would it be worth it? FWIW I saw the fabric in passing before i actually saw Round and round bandage.

>> No.10263993

>>10263972
you totally should that fabric is cute. also there’s a 60% off rn so...

>> No.10264067
File: 445 KB, 480x640, P15OJ206-1-cha.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10264067

>>10263972

I'm kinda wary of it. When Misty Sky was a hit and some folks made dresses out of cartoony cloud prints anons made a lot of comments like "doesn't even look like Misty Sky", "just save up for the original", and so on. I think most people can't help but compare it to the original when they know it's inspired by that and you're trying to make a knock off.

I think it's doable if you have the original and made an accessory for it (for eg, a black bag and then you line it with this fabric would be super cute). Or, alternatively, make something casual, maybe non-lolita so it's obvious that you're not really trying to replace the original with a knockoff.

>> No.10268391
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10268391

How do you draft the cone proportion of a witch hat? I've drafted the brim and I've watched a couple of tutorials. But none of them explain how to draft the cone pattern.

>> No.10268395

>>10268391
It's just a portion of a circle, you make the radius how tall you want the cone and measure your circumference and make the arc that long. You use paper to test the shape before cutting your fabric.

>> No.10268430
File: 22 KB, 477x487, witchhat.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10268430

>>10268395
How do I calculate the angle of the cone shape to achieve the correct circumference (57cm +1cm seam allowance)?

>> No.10268466

>>10268430
I'm sure there's a mathematical way to do it, but honestly I would just use a measuring tape and measure along the circumference until it's about right

>> No.10268470

>>10268430
Just need to calculate the radius of the circle. Do you even math?

>> No.10268479

Would buying a decent quality UV protection umbrella online and then adding my own lace ruffles for decoration be ita? I think the one I found was about 68" though so kinda huge but good for shade. Would it be better to leave it untouched? I want a cute parasol but with sun protection and I never see any mostly solid white or pink brand ones secondhand. I found a good pink ruffly one online but the only white ones that already have ruffles and lace have poor reviews on color (having a sickly tinge or being way too off white). I want to lighten my skin and avoid sun related aging so UV protection is a must for any parasol...any places that sell good ones under $50 if there is no way to make one myself without being ita?

>> No.10268488

>>10268430
go back to high school and pay attention to math class this time around

>> No.10268585

>>10268466
Thanks anon, this method worked out for me. I appreciate the help!

>> No.10268627

>>10268430
There are online calculators that will do this!
First: take your waist measurement, this is called circumference. Put that number into a “circumference calculator” which you can just google. The number you need is radius. For example if you have a 24” waist then your radius would be 3.8”

Now that you have radius you can just measure from the center of the circle (in your image, this would be the very top left corner) 3.8 inches out at regular intervals all the way around and then sketch in a curved line to connect.

>> No.10268746

>>10268479

Sewing pokes holes in the fabric, so that means letting the rain and some UV rays through the holes. So yeah, probably not a good idea if you still want a functional brolly.

If you don't care about keeping the rain or the UV rays out, you can practically replace the top of the brolly (usually the cloth comes off at the ends of the spokes, just gotta unhook them).

Between potentially butchering a perfectly good brolly and using a normie brolly tho, I'd choose using the normie brolly. Just match the colour schemes and make sure the brolly isn't too ugly (like it doesn't have a giant "supreme" logo on it or something equally eye-rolly), that's way less trouble and less risky than trying to mod a brolly. In the meanwhile you can keep an eye out on LM, CC or WW for cheaper secondhand brollies.

>> No.10268764

>>10268627
They're not making a circle skirt, read the post, they're trying to calculate the angle for a cone

>> No.10268945

>>10268479
In and of itself it isn't ita, if it looks shit it will be though. For lace on umbrellas it's better to use synthetics and if you want to keep the UV protection, only decorate the edge and glue it on rather than sew.

>> No.10269444

I bought some fabric online because I wanted to do a kuro coord for Halloween and it feels think in a bad way? Like it’s supposed to be bridal satin but feels kinda......tablecloth-y???

What do you think? Would I take a gamble and use it anyways? It’s not like I can return it

>> No.10269455

>>10269444
so u bought like a cotton broad cloth
it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with types of fabric, sucks you can’t return it, you can make something else instead like a witch hat? Or just make something relatively simple. It might wrinkle easily .

>> No.10269469

>>10269455
Ahhh thanks for that! I think it was like a broadcloth. I think I’ll just make a skirt instead of an op... or do you think it’ll look nasty?

>> No.10269493

>>10268470
That's not what they were asking, anon. What they were looking for was the formula to develop a cone (D1 x 360) / D2. This would have given them the correct angle for the cone.

>>10268585
The formula mentioned above would have eliminated the need to measure around the outside circumference.

>> No.10270365

>>10269444
If it's supposed to be bridal satin it's probably a midweight poly satin, not cotton broadcloth. Generally speaking, bridal fabrics aren't great for lolita garments anyway. You could use it as lining, if it looks awful in person.

>> No.10271415
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10271415

I’m working with skeletal anatomy bat fabric. Making a high waisted skirt but I wanted to get some feedback on the idea for the waist ties. Do y’all think the three centered are cute or should I cut a poor fellow in half to complete the full bottom part of the tie?

>> No.10271419

>>10269444

If anon >>10255456 can make a dress out of what seems to be sofa fabric I don't see why you can't take a shot at making a dress out of tablecloth.

However, the description really lacks a lot of details so it's hard to give advice. What's tableclothy about it?
- Is it super shiny? If it is, then it's dead. If it's thin you might use it as a lining. If it's thick you might use it as interfacing for flimsier fabric.
- Is it just stiff and doesn't drape easily? If it is, then pick a more structured dress, eg A-line that you're going to stuff with petticoats so the stiffness of the fabric doesn't matter.
- Is it very thin and see-through? If it is, pick a style that suits polyester fabric, eg- tent dresses or whatever.

idk, if you describe what's wrong with it more maybe it's salvageable.

>> No.10271422

>>10271415

I'd go for angling them, or re-arranging them differently.

If you're gonna cut them up though, why not make a six-winged batmonster or something. At least looks cooler and more intentional than half a bat, imo.

>> No.10272185
File: 43 KB, 320x240, AC7356A4-293B-4762-B223-F4DF2A83071F.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10272185

Pic of progress. I really like the teeth, but was wondering if I should save them for the headdress instead. I’ve only seen this sort of a statement on them before and I am wondering if it’s out of place here.

>>10271422
It took me a hot minute to understand what you meant. But I do like the bat monster idea. I’ll have to play around with them.

>> No.10276544

Anyone doing any last-minute sewing for Halloween?

>> No.10276628

>>10268746
please stop saying brolly

>> No.10276744

>>10276544
me lol
I'm trying to finish a jsk by saturday. the bodice is done! But I'm having issues with the skirt because I'm stupid

>> No.10277030

>>10276744
What are you having trouble with on the skirt?

>> No.10277036

>>10256639
wait which book # is this? I must die to make this, 20 of them, and live in them forever.

>> No.10277040

>>10277036
14

>> No.10278015

>>10277040
Thanks, mine arrives tomorrow and I will start stalking fabric stores

>> No.10278022

>>10277030
I followed a post on gel livejournal that said that the top tier of a tired skirt should be 2x the waist measurement and it looks stretched(?) in comparison to the other two tiers so I should probably add a panel of more fabric :(
Also the tiered look makes it look a bit like a petti lol

>> No.10278050

>>10278022
2x is definitely too little. When I make tiered skirts I treat the top tier as if I’m making a normal rectangle skirt so at least 3x my waist, but usually more. Then the next tier is 1.5x-3x the previous tier depending on the thickness of the fabric and what shape I want the skirt to be (more flare becomes A-line, less flare cupcake though of course the petti matters too). Tiered skirts always take up a ton of fabric.

>> No.10278073
File: 221 KB, 744x1024, b39d3c66fb6aed686aa94432c6c1e39c.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10278073

>>10278022

Just wanted to weigh in that this depends a lot on your own body shape. The older gosuroris used to have top tiers that were more like ~1m, with a waist of 70cm this was more like 1.5x the waist, even more stretched out than 2x. But it clearly works out for their models and the style of dresses they were going for (pic related).

For me, I've got wider hips, anything less than 2x my waist and the skirt sits weird. So it's one of those things I find you do need to fiddle around with.

To make it look less "petticoat-y" you should narrow the next tier, ie- tier 2 should only be 1.5x wider than the tier above (rather than 2x), and tier 3 might be 1.3x wider than tier 2. This means the bottom of your skirt will have less fabric flouncing around so it'll look less petticoaty

>> No.10278076

>>10278022
That only works well with narrow hips and old-school poof.

>> No.10279072
File: 3.64 MB, 1992x1126, RPA waloli.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10279072

Trying to decide on a design to sew up, just wondering what people think of something like this?

I kind of have conflicting thoughts whether it looks messy or not, so I can't decide if I want to do a set like this or not.

(thinking of making a hanfu-style set, not waloli..... not that it matters much anyway, I'm more interested to hear thoughts on the overlapping necklines)

>> No.10279111

>>10279072
I don't like the conflict of multiple overlapping necklines, if you want to do hanfu a high-waist skirt seems more appropriate.

>> No.10279137
File: 42 KB, 554x554, 71204681_146595366560663_2189880343575011638_n.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10279137

>>10279111

I'm a top-heavy pear, so the highwaisted designs are all immediately out, I'd look like a preggo tent if I tried it. In fact, I wouldn't wear the RPA one either, seems like my chest would bend the bow over the waistband, haha...

Then there's the thing about the sleeves -- the fluttery long ones are so pretty but impractical, the narrow sleeves are practical but... not as fancy. With regular lolita you'd solve it by making the dress a jsk and then just change the blouse underneath to whichever sleeves you like, but I can't find an actually decent design that layers them.

Closest thing I've come across (other than RPA with the overlapping necklines) is this anime character, I could make an overdress where the "jsk" collar is just wider than the inner blouse's collar, so when it's layered together at least both collars sort of line up. Then have a couple of inner blouses with flutter sleeves and narrow sleeves. It feels really weird to be taking design inspo from a chibi male anime character though...

>> No.10279355
File: 40 KB, 249x335, BADBB603-8912-4022-B309-442B1DE11B26.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10279355

>>10279137
Nayrt but I’m assuming this is what they meant by a high waisted skirt.

>> No.10279495
File: 184 KB, 600x900, ichigomikou-drizzle-thin-clouds-hanfu-style-dress-qi-lolita-dress-sb-76_8_1.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10279495

>>10279355

That's possible... although it's not a common hanfu design.

More common design for actual girls' hanfu is a skirt with the waistband placed high up around the bust, I thought this was what they were referring to.

>> No.10279562
File: 15 KB, 240x320, images (32).jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10279562

Does anyone have a pattern for pannel dresses like those from Btssb? I tried make one but I failed hard on that

>> No.10279628

>>10279562

Where exactly did you fail?

If it's the basic princess seam dress, then otome no sewing 7, otome no sewing best collection, several gosuroris have A-line dresses (at least 7 and 12 have A-line jsks). Alternatively you can look for (non-lolita) retro vintage princess seam patterns.

The pockets are patch pockets, and the bottom of the dress is a scallop hem.

>> No.10279648

>>10279137
Hmm. I think to successfully combine the lolita/hanfu idea and also work with something you find flattering to your body, it'll be better with a traditional JSK silhouette and straight neckline with straps unless you really want the double overlap. I would go with some waistband detail and knife pleats to mimic the hanfu skirt. Most likely you will have some people think it's generic wa-lolita or hanbok rather than hanfu inspired especially if you have big sleeves, so the choice of fabric, styling and accessorising is going to play a big part in actually pulling it off. The other thing would be abandoning the idea of a JSK and going with either a high waist skirt like >>10279355 which is bound to look at least a little like wa-lolita, or a normal-waist skirt which may just look like a casual hanfu outfit rather than clearly lolita.

>> No.10279670
File: 1.95 MB, 1850x600, cutsew styles.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10279670

Can someone point me to some good resources for sewing cute design elements with knits? I want to put my new serger to good use and make some cutsews, but I'm having a hard time finding (non-amateurish) patterns or tutorials for anything more interesting than a plain T-shirt. I'm looking for different neckline, hem and sleeve variations, more flattering cuts, how to sew nice ruffles, how to add trims without compromising stretch and other design elements that make a lolita cutsew cute instead of just another plain tee.

I know how to draft and sew all of those things in plain ol' woven fabric but when it comes to knits and how to apply my serger I really only know the basics, so I would appreciate some tips or guidance from someone who actually knows what they're doing.

>> No.10279834

I’m making a seifuku collar for a sailor OP. Should I make it with long ties so I can actually tie a bow when I put it on, or just make a bow and sew it to the collar? I’m thinking the second option will look less messy but I’ve never seen the way Brand does is

>> No.10279928

>>10279648

Hmmm. A lot to think about. I think I have to do more research before I can put together my dress.

Thanks for the input, it does help.

>> No.10279939

>>10279834

There's usually the smallest size button hidden right under the collar on both sides, and then you button the two ends of the neck tie to the button (not the tail, the part that should have been around your neck)


>>10279670

I'd start with a fitted tee, and once you have that you can probably hack and slash your way to most of the designs shown here. There's not much unusual to attaching things like lace or bows, if you have a friend with some burando you could ask to see the stitching to see how the insides look like.

As for the fitted tee... easiest option is to trace one that already fits you well, or buy a commercial pattern. The only proper tutorial I ever found was on madmim.com, it's long since gone down, but a lot of folks saved the pattern image showing where the measurements should go, if you look on pinterest (or google, same thing anyway), you might be able to find that image and work off that.

There's a few pattern-drafting books that work with knits, but they seem to be college texts so they're usually a bit expensive.

>> No.10280095

>>10279670
Cutsews are very similar to drafting the same shapes in wovens - I basically pattern the same way but just make sure to remember a ballpoint needle when I'm putting gathering stitches in, and don't bother with a zipper because the stretch lets me get things on without one. If you're sewing lace on flat rather than gathered it's usually best to apply it in areas that don't need to stretch too much.
DESU cutsew is easy mode, lycra and 4-way stretch where you need to think about negative ease is really where it starts confusing me

>> No.10283532

>>10255520
not even a print, it's a jaquard way more expensive.
>>10255456
this type of jaquard is more intended for other uses but i also love the shape and the way it looks, nice one anon.
*I am no experto on this so take my opinion as a grain of salt

>> No.10283534
File: 47 KB, 500x373, tumblr_bd1df1a993e6325303c27f59c39467d3_5fb351c0_500.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10283534

>>10279834
they tie it underneath the collar, see picture
source: *fattogami

>> No.10283539

>>10283534
thanks, you're the best!! <3

>> No.10284453
File: 1.81 MB, 1920x1080, CollageMaker_20191106_020620794.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10284453

>>10255456
>>10283532
yeah it's literally upholstery gobelin, probably wasn't the smartest choice but I liked the pattern!

anyway, I did wind up undoing the ruffles because I hated the way they draped, redid them as very loose pleats and the result looks much better imo, this fabric is very stiff so it needed more structure. i decided to forgo the second layer of ruffles and the rest of the lace I planned to add bc I loved the simpler silhouette. this is essentially the final product, thrown on to snap some pics in right after I finished it. first time lining a dress, never doing it again. not 100% happy with it, but I love the shape (and need a stronger petti)! will make more a-lines, I think. thanks to everyone who chimed in on my stubborn endeavor.

as a side note, I had just enough fabric left to make a simple, low poof rectangle skirt, will post pics whenever I get around to finishing it.

>> No.10284548

>>10284453
Well done on finishing your project anon.
Are you going to make a matching headpiece like a kc, rectangle headdress, or bonnet to go with it?

>> No.10284549

How does burando attach pearl beads to cardigans and headbows such? Are they just center-drilled beads so you can see the holes on the sides, or do they have some technique that hides the holes?

>> No.10284557

>>10284549
Maybe they glue on half pearls?

>> No.10284564

>>10284549
yes, they are beads that are sewn on.

>> No.10284566
File: 54 KB, 550x546, persl.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10284566

>>10284549

>> No.10284947
File: 29 KB, 600x512, 618434-1909-2016-04-03577835.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10284947

>>10284548
thanks! yes, I'm going to make a very simple rectangle headdress to go with it, similar in style to this

desu I feel like it needs waist ties or something but the fabric is way too thick for that

>> No.10285013

>>10284453

This actually looks pretty good, considering you were working with a heavy, unwieldy fabric.

Rather than a rectangle skirt (I just don't see that going well, especially after the problems with the ruffles), I'd suggest making a totebag or something (there's no requirement to have the bag match the dress, a heavy fabric like that could be useful for carrying groceries if the straps are sturdy enough, the lining can be waterproof nylon to keep the outside pristine).

>> No.10288406
File: 1.52 MB, 1896x1896, CollageMaker_20191113_015850676.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10288406

>>10285013
welp, finished the skirt and no surprise that it's quite bulky. it doesnt look terrible on the mannequin but it's super unflattering on me. oh well! I'll either try to retool it into an a-line skirt or make a cute totebag out of it like you suggested.

>> No.10288460

Do any gulls here have experience making lolita jackets?
I want to make one similar to a roland but in a dusky pink for my more classic coords, since boz only makes neutrals/gothic colours and that one pastel green iirc.
I've drafted and made blazer type jackets in the past so I know basic tailoring, but in terms of where to start with a pattern for this project I'm a bit lost, short of attempting to trace the roland I already have.

>> No.10288671

>>10284453
This looks pretty decent, but the bust is super unflattering. I think the ruffles on the side of the before looked much better too, right now it's just really basic and looks frumpy (in a bad way) especially on the chest, but the waist/hips as well. I do see a lot of potential here anon, and I think you can work on your skills a lot and make cute things.

As for the skirt, what the heck? I know the fabric you used was heavy, but there is not much fabric, making the bottom look "tight" while it looks like the waist portion was actually bigger... like you made a trapezoid skirt, but upsidedown. I'd make a bag out of it to salvage what you can.

>> No.10289150

>>10288406
This is fugly as shit even on the mannequin. You should have listened to the other anon who told you to not even bother in the first place.

>> No.10289590

>>10288406

ayrt.

Oh dang anon. It looks like the mannequin is wearing a gutted foot stool, a very pretty one though.

Gonna say I appreciate that you went full steam for the idea and then posted it here for the rest of us to learn from. Gonna wish you luck on salvaging it into a better item and looking forward to seeing what else you can do with this fabric.

>> No.10289633
File: 654 KB, 1000x1000, 332c48d1-554d-4064-bb2f-48fcb2c2f1d5.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10289633

>>10249338
I think maybe making the print less prominent because it is so bright by adding black fabric may help and also I think maybe some short bell sleeves may look nice

>> No.10289637

>>10289633
desu this looks even more ita.

>> No.10289646

>>10289633
Wow this looks like a Bodyline reject

>> No.10289712
File: 317 KB, 536x1032, CBA16F63-E199-4D1E-97FD-E51CEEA619AE.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10289712

>>10249338
>>10289633
Look I fixed it

>> No.10289736

Which patterns are in the latest otome no sewing? Would shipping from Japan be very expensive?

>> No.10289827

Hello gulls! Just a simple question.
I’m going to be making just rectangle skirt with elastic in the waistband. I know how to sew it all together, but my question is more about the fabric itself.

Obviously it comes folded over, but when I’m working on the skirt should I leave it folded or unfold? I’m a bit worried that leaving it folded over would make the skirt short. It’s about 20in/51cm folded, and 45in/114cm unfolded.

I also plan on adding inner lining so you can’t see all the bumps of my petti. I was initially just going to unfold the fabric and cut away any excess to use for ruffles or bows, but I wanted to get more experienced opinions before I fuck something up.

>> No.10289831

>>10289827
Unfold it.

>> No.10289867
File: 461 KB, 1000x1000, 332c48d1-554d-4064-bb2f-48fcb2c2f1d5.png [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10289867

>>10249338
I was thinking to still keep some of the fabric out you could make it more like a stained glass type print with it mostly black

>> No.10289870

>>10289867
Are you proposing some kind of patchwork? That sounds like a ton of work and IMO anon would be better off cutting her losses, accepting this dress as an ita mess that’s still fun to wear to normie events and just making her next project out of more lolita-appropriate fabric.

>> No.10290195

>>10289736

>>10258037 and https://misscarolbelle.wordpress.com/2019/10/02/otome-no-sewing-book-14-september-2019/

If you're buying your first book you might want to check out the other issues and see which designs you actually like more. I feel like the latest volume has a distinct skew towards otome, though half the patterns are certainly still lolita.

sorry, can't help with the shipping, have a friend who works for a mnc and she brings one back when she can.

>> No.10290202

>>10289870
I knew this dress would be an ita mess when I bought the fabric! I don't care, it's so much fun to wear to conventions. I hope to wear the third iteration of this dress to MagFest in January (because I basically bought the video game fabric for the video game convention), but I have my very first nephew due around that time, so I am currently teaching myself how to knit a baby blanket instead of fixing my ita sins.

I did try it on with my high-necked long sleeve black blouse, and I really felt like it made my potato-shaped pale face look even more fat than usual. As much as I would love gulls' approval, I'm an old and I know it's better for me to feel comfortable and cute-ish during the convention than force myself into something I don't like just so a few internet strangers might hate the outfit a little bit less.

Anyway, it's not like I'm going to post this disaster on CoF or tag it as lolita/egl on instagram.

Quick aside: my boyfriend, bless him, loves this dress and bought a Mario-pixel-block themed necklace and pin set from Gamestop to 'go with it'. It's cute, but it's normie sized, and, of course, clashing colors. I'll have to 'misplace' it before January.

>> No.10290204
File: 420 KB, 1649x1247, BA7AFB84-3F87-4127-AD03-6611AC598127.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10290204

>>10289712
Lol! Here, just so y'all can sleep at night without nightmares of yet another clueless ita wandering the streets, here are my last two jsk purchases.

...I did order that two colors of denim jsk, though. (Without the side lacing,)

>> No.10290307

I am making a lolita style red wine color coat, I fear that it is going to look ita....

Investment is already done on the best material locally available a 90% wool and 10% polyester for coating with nice drape.

I am making the pattern from scratch based on references, thankfully this is not my first coat but it makes anxious, going to test the patterns first on muslin today.

Any anons have any tips on lolita coats?

>> No.10290326

>>10290202
Maybe you can take the charm off the necklace and attach it to a headbow to make it more cohesive.

>> No.10290327

>>10290307
Keep the design simple, focus on getting the right silhouette first. If you want to add some detail, make it in the same base fabric, or faux fur. Put in a lining but don't sew the lining to the fashion fabric at the very bottom, that way you won't have ugly pulling or wrinkles if the two layers shrink or warp unevenly.

>> No.10290591

>>10290327
going to keep this in mind, I am probably going to line it and stitch it by hand on most parts, but first going to focus on the silhouette, I will see if I can post some pics after some progress is made.

>> No.10290889

Where do you guys get high quality cotton fabric from? My local sewing store didnt have a good selection.

>> No.10290928

>>10290202
So you'll wear that hot ita mess out in public without brushing your hair, but you'd rather deliberately lose something that your partner paid good money for than wear something slightly 'normie'?

Okay.

>> No.10291127

>>10290889

What are you looking for though? I've yet to find that magic shop where everything single fabric is always good and can always be made into lolita clothes, so my sources are scattered all over the place.

For prints, usually I go with Japanaese fabric makers, Etsy will have some shops carrying imports, there's a couple of brands that often make lolita-esque prints. Keep an eye on the description, it's usually either quilting cotton (thinner) or ox fabric (thicker, might be harder to work with)

For fabric (ie- twill, sateen, lawn, stuff that isn't quilting cotton) I drive to the bigger city solely to spend a day in the fabric district.

Online, it's taobao with google translate. A lot of looking at listings and being prepared the colour/weave might not be what I initially expect though.

For taobao I'd recommend popohouse for the pricing and shop113229535 for cute prints.

>> No.10291229

>>10290889
I like Fabric Worm and Fabric Mart. If you have the money I would also check out Liberty of London.

>> No.10291233

>>10291229
Seconding fabric worm, I made a lovely op with some organic cotton from the Birch brand they carry

>> No.10291297

>>10290889
missmatatabi, 7seasfabric , mood, joann's, etsy.
I mostly go to the fashion district in your city and look around for discounts.
>>10291127
I always wanted to order from taobao going to try this and do some tests.

>> No.10291310

Where can I buy lolita from you handmade gulls? Requesting etsy links, spoon feed me mommy

>> No.10291312

Would wearing some nice homemade boot covers over tea parties be a reasonable substitute until the custom boots I ordered arrive?

>> No.10291429

>>10291310
>mommy
get out

>> No.10291588

Do you guys think flannel would be ok to use as material for a skirt? If not what kinds would be better? I'm trying to make old school inspired stuff.

>> No.10291992

>>10291588
>flannel
Since it's a bottom weight fabric it works well on skirts and is also easy and forgiving to sew.

>> No.10292554

This is probably not the best thread to ask, but I really want to make a lolita dress that incorporates my cultural clothing (like wa or qi lolita does). Do you guys think it can work?

>> No.10292556

>>10292554
it would probably help if you mentioned what your cultural clothing is

>> No.10292564
File: 104 KB, 534x1074, e8e6df800ac483dd6a86b80fbc7ea795.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10292564

>>10292556
Greek clothing (not ancient lol). Something like pic related.

>> No.10292957
File: 21 KB, 480x480, 67335717_2363986057182252_4992290391779910840_n[1].jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10292957

>>10292564
I think it could, that jacket is cropped and would work well with the silhouette already.

I also want to make something that incorporates traditional clothing from my country. It's already been done with Poz Kerchief and some taobao brands, so I think it could work.

>> No.10292960

>>10292564
I think it could work, I’d definitely tone down the sleeves though.

>> No.10293180

>>10238094
What type of fabric did they use for the red?

>> No.10294713
File: 37 KB, 913x780, 51dXdu3qSBL._AC_UY780_.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10294713

Would a nice slightly plush polyester felt be okay for making a cloak like pic related?

I'm thinking of lining it with something soft or furry/fluffy as well or something a bit stiffer to give it nice drape. The fabric I've chosen has good reviews but I wanted confirmation from gulls that sew if it would be an appropriate material for outerwear (I live in a place that never gets below the teens in Farenheit for reference as to how warm it would need to be).

It seemed like decent quality material, more for garments than craft felt, and I wanted to test a decent mockup in warm materials before moving on to wool.

>> No.10295077

>>10294713
you really didn't tell us much about the fabric with that, post a link or pic. Anyway go for it anon and experiment.
Are you making your own pattern?

>> No.10298195
File: 919 KB, 1440x1606, Screenshot_20191201-193537.jpg [View same] [iqdb] [saucenao] [google]
10298195

>>10284557
>>10284566
I know it's not like a top-tier brand, but this Liz Lisa dress looks like it's using full pearl beads. I already have ones like this. Could I get away with those, or would it look much shittier than buying half-pearls?