/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

So putting together an Erika cosplay after sewing a few pieces for previous costumes, but I have two questions

Her skirt (90% it's not pants anyway) sort of bells out at the bottom. I'm planning on following the one of the general tuts, liked the ones linked earlier, but would it get the right shape is the width is the same on the top and bottom? Or should I make the bottom a little wider and make the pleats...slanted or something?

And secondly, I've only ever used broadcloth ( I know) but I'm guessing cotton twill would work for both the skirt and yukata top? Or is there a better type of fabric?