/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

Cosplay scrub/newb here.

I'm trying to make a Haruhi Suzumiya skirt that doesn't suck. I've done three full skirts and several mock-ups and I don't know where I'm going wrong...

I really like the skirt in the middle (the only decent part of the cosplay, tbh). I'm having two problems getting there:

1. Keeping the pleats from popping out as I walk
2. Maintaining the a-line shape of the skirt after pleating, it sort of turns into a rectangle tube.

I'm using Kona cotton, which may be the problem for number 1. Should I use a heavier weight fabric?

As for problem number 2, I am totally lost.