/cgl/ - Cosplay & EGL

They let me plug it into the wall. Machine runs (needle goes up and down in place) but very slowly at first.

Now it is a little faster, but still slow on some parts of the cycle.

Is there anything seriously wrong or does it just need a little oil?

>>7717822
The only marking telling me the brand, Sears Kenmore.

Can't find a model number or anything.

I'm at an antique store right now. I found this sewing machine for $22. Tag says it's still working.

What exactly is it and what should I look for to make sure it's fine?

Turning the "knob" where the belt is connected to makes the needle go up and down if that helps.

>>7710281
What about a site like this:
http://www.mooncostumes.com/custom.html

>>7710277
So should I just spray some on now that I've sewn it together?

>>7710281
Thanks for the info. "Pattern" is just going to be made from a similar garment I already have by measuring and redrawing the panels.

>>7709015
>>7708321
Have you considered this company?

http://artofwhere.com/

Their prices are similar to Spoonflower and they do dye sublimation on synthetic fabrics. This means that the synthetic printed fabrics are safe to wash since the dyes are chemically bonded to the fabric.

An unrelated question:

Let's say I want to make a custom clothing item like pic related.


Assuming I provide the materials, a rudimentary sewing pattern and reference photos, about how much will it cost me to make if I took it to a tailor?
Have any of you guys had to do this before?

I would sew it myself, but I don't have time to learn sewing and I have no room for a sewing machine.

>>7709047
I ended up sewing it back together.

Looks like a field repair some Russian conscript would have done since we're both at the same skill level in terms of sewing.

The material is fragile and very prone to fraying and tearing. This was also reported back in the 80's when it first came out. Sandpaper would wear right through the material.

>>7708321
The abrasion issue can probably be avoided by printing with reactive dyes instead since those actually chemically bond to the fabric.


The problem is the only company I found that does this and caters to hobbyists like Spoonflower is in Germany. They ship internationally, but it's still expensive (25€/yard for twill, that's Euros, not Dollars).

There are some American companies that do this, but they're more for actual production runs and out of the range of most hobbyists.

I'd give it a few more years until Spoonflower or someone like them starts doing reactive printing for hobbyists.

We could probably bug spoonflower to see if they have any plans for that as well.

>>7708277
Looks like sewing it is then.

I can at least make it look like a field repair.

>>7708279
I posted the results here: >>7708224

No fading. The fabric after washing just came out wrinkly when I scanned it.

>>7708265
>>7708262
I've already contacted him and said I'll keep the item to mend. But I warned him that such a tear was not "minor" and to be more careful with his listings in the future.

It was probably just a kid since I bought it from an airsofter, and I can afford supplies to mend the tear.

>>7708254
But then again, I'm torn (no pun intended).

The real thing would have been sewn shut as a field repair.

So which should I do?

I received this jacket today and pic related was passed off as a "minor tear" by the seller on eBay.

So what would you guys do to mend this tear?

It is not on a seam.

My plan is to slice some frayed threads off then put some fusible tape/fusible patch on the inside and iron it closed so that the repair will not look as obvious (from the outside) compared to if I had sewn it shut.

Could this work?

Sorry this is long overdue. Here are the results of my experiment to see if Versatex Fixer can stop spoonflower fabrics from fading in the wash due to abrasion wearing off the ink.

It looks like it works. Here's the comparison. What do you guys think?

Whether or not it is economical is another issue.

The fixer's residues might also slightly lighten the color of your print.

>>7590433
Here's a better shot of the residues using my scanner.

Pic related shows that the pigment stays on the surface of the fabric without reacting with the fabric's fibers. This is what causes the serious abrasion problems in the wash.

>>7590435
Info that gave me the idea:
>http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/newsroom/press_kits/2013/signanddisplaylaunch2013/LatexWhitePaper.pdf
>http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/dyeblog/C1605100905/E20120323111349/index.html


Where to buy Versatex:
>http://www.dharmatrading.com/paints/versatex-inchno-heat-inch-fixative.html?lnav=paints.html

>>7590439
I'm about to as soon as my samples dry up.

I did this test since lots of people there wanted a way to prototype camo without spending an obscene amount for a one-off that may not even come out alright.

>>7590433
Here's how Versatex affects the colors of the printed fabric.

>>7590431
Here's what happened after rubbing the swatches with clean pieces of toilet paper. The fact that there is little residue on the paper that was scrubbed on the treated swatch shows that Versatex holds down the pigment very well.

Don't know if this could help anyone here.

I did a test for /k/since many of us are interested in prototyping camo to see if Versatex fixer could fix the fading problems in spoonflower fabrics by fixing the ink that gets deposited on the surface (Spoonflower's printing process).

So far, the results look promising.

The only issue is that Versatex changes the texture of the fabric and that it slightly whites out the colors, though evenly.

Here's my results.
The swatch on the left was heavily brushed in Versatex fixer and left to dry for a week as instructed on the bottle.

The one on the right was a control on which no versatex fixer was applied.

Both swatches were wetted in a cold water bath then scrubbed with a rolled-up piece of toilet paper 10 times.

The toilet paper that was rubbed on the swatch which did not have the versatex fixer applied to it came out with more residue on it than the toilet paper which was rubbed on the swatch with the versatex fixer. This means that the fixer is effective in keeping the printed pigment on the twill.

>>7542048
I currently have it down in Illustrator and as a DXF.

The files are here:
http://kommandopost.com/DenisonSewingPattern/

I copied the shapes from a garment that I actually own.

I don't have that exact item on hand since I am far away from it, but I have a similar one with me right now I can get info from in case you need it.

The pattern will be redone since I've gotten more of those smocks recently that shows my info from the original smock was not exactly representative of all Denison smocks.

I just want to know what you think of the pattern I made, and maybe advise me on some notation. As you can probably tell, I'm not a professional tailor.

>>7541123
Oops here's the email.

>>7540872
Can you please email me?

I have a sewing pattern I need checked.

It's probably simply by the standards of this board, but it's still something I have no clue on how to do.

>>7020747
And to contribute, here's a small piece of WW2 era British battledress uniform wool I put into my scanner. As far as I know that's its absolute color.

I can carry around the actual uniform material clipping to check colors of fabric IRL, but I'm sure you guys can print my scanned sample out and do the same thing for period costumes/Hellsing, or hetalia costumes (or whatever).