/3/ - 3DCG

>>750329
I’ll show you mine if you’ll show me yours

that thing looks like that damn peel machine.

3d printing is the most autistic hobby I can imagine, if I have one more 3d printing nerd ask me for a .stl of my models I'm going to fucking freak out.

Learn to make shit yourself you talentless fuckwits, this is not a replacement for having a real hobby.

>>750329
I have an Ender 3 Pro and it works great. Get one.

Cheap, easy to repair and improve/expand, and a great community willing to help you.

I'd recommend getting it off amazon

>>750393
What kind of models are they asking for? They're probably printing them so that that they can hand paint them.

>>750393
Why don't you just say that you charge money, that way you'll see if your garbage is actually worth shit.

>>750399
you dont need the pro version, but the ender 3 is prolly the best cheap printer out there. Mainly because it has been produced and sold many more times than other printers

>>750399
you are on a CG board, and you don't fucking know how to rotate a photo?

>>752727
what are the differences between the pro and non-pro versions?

We got a general thread here btw: >>>/diy/1852286

>>750329
>house models
FDM printer.
Creality Ender 3 Pro (it's basically an Ender 3 with most of the basic upgrades you pay for already built in, only requiring one or two like better bed springs) or Creality CR10 depending on if you need the larger potential sizes. It's the only cheap sub-$500 machines worth a damn.

But if it's actually for work and not strictly out of personal interest i'd probably spring for a Prusa i3 at a bit more than double the cost to avoid having to deal with chinkshit problems. There's already tons of tinkering involved with getting good 3D prints without also having to deal with chabuduo quality issues like skewed build plate on every Creality printer. (but as mentioned you pay over double due to it)
/diy/ also has a 3d printing general for more info.

>>752824
Oh, and in all likelihood you're only ever going to need to print PLA/PLA+ unless you live in a really hot area (they skew under too much heat) so don't bother with upgrades aimed at printing troublesome materials like ABS. (enclosures, alternate heatsinks etc)

The really necessary upgrades off the top of my head are better replacement springs (the original ones are super crap), PTFE couplings (likewise), a metal extruder (yep it's shit) and a replacement mainboard get the SKR E3 DIP or SKR Mini E3 (silent driver makes it go from very noisy to barely noticeable while printing).
Pro is also safer due to a proper Meanwell PSU instead of chinkshit.

Some stuff that's nice to have but necessary include the BLTouch, PEI sheet replacing the printing area, Raspberry Pi with Octoprint for remote control if it's worth it to you.

Most other upgrades are stuff you print and Pro makes a fair few of these redundant through better design choices. (like not having the fan intake for the mainboard be right beneath the printing area)

>>752828
Those upgrades are assuming you get a Creality printer and not a Prusa obviously.

>>752824 (You)
Oh, and in all likelihood you're only ever going to need to print PLA/PLA+ unless you live in a really hot area (they skew under too much heat) so don't bother with upgrades aimed at printing troublesome materials like ABS. (enclosures, alternate heatsinks etc)
Some upgrades that are nice to have but in no way necessary include the BLTouch, PEI sheet replacing the printing area, replacement silent fans and maybe a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint running.

The really necessary upgrades to the Creality printers are replacement springs, PTFE couplings and a metal extruder. All of the aforementioned are low quality materials that break within weeks or barely work.
Also the mainboard should be replaced with an SKR E3 DIP or SKR Mini E3 as the original board is very noisy while the replacement ones are so silent you'll mostly hear the fans, an SD card since the included one is shit.
Note that the Pro Ender 3 is also safer due to a proper Meanwell PSU instead of chinkshit.
Most other upgrades are stuff you print and Pro makes a fair few of these redundant through better design choices like not having the fan intake for the mainboard be right beneath the printing area.

More or less decide if you need the build area of a CR-10/CR-10S or if an Ender 3 Pro is enough. Then decide if paying roughly $750 more is worth it to cut down on tinkering (but by no means doing away with it entirely).

>>752824
Oh, and in all likelihood you're only ever going to need to print PLA/PLA+ unless you live in a really hot area (they skew under too much heat) so don't bother with upgrades aimed at printing troublesome materials like ABS. (enclosures, alternate heatsinks etc)
Some Creality upgrades that are nice to have but in no way necessary include the BLTouch, PEI sheet replacing the printing area, replacement silent fans and maybe a Raspberry Pi with Octoprint running.

The really necessary upgrades to the Creality printers are replacement springs, PTFE couplings and a metal extruder. All of the aforementioned are low quality materials that break within weeks or barely work.
Also the mainboard should be replaced with an SKR E3 DIP or SKR Mini E3 as the original board is very noisy while the replacement ones are so silent you'll mostly hear the fans, an SD card since the included one is shit.
Note that the Pro Ender 3 is also safer due to a proper Meanwell PSU instead of chinkshit.
Most other upgrades are stuff you print and Pro makes a fair few of these redundant through better design choices like not having the fan intake for the mainboard be right beneath the printing area.

More or less decide if you need the build area of a CR-10/CR-10S or if an Ender 3 Pro is enough. Then decide if paying roughly $750 more for a Prusa is worth it to cut down on tinkering a lot (but by no means doing away with it entirely).

>>752824
>>752834
This but forget the Prusa. They're the biggest ripoff in 3D printing verging on scams.

>>753125
>This but forget the Prusa. They're the biggest ripoff in 3D printing verging on scams.
Not really a scam, but they're not much better than an well fonetuned and partially upgraded vhink printer. Takes work tho, the Prusa performs good out of the box.
I mysef bought a chink printer because I enjoy tinkering around with it.

>>753129
They have worse build quality than even a basic Ender 3, costs 4.7 times more and can't even get their screws to fit right. Tons of shitty design choices like underpowered fans, overheating issues causing stringing and a hotend that's retarded to pull apart for maintenace once something clogs. Prusas are scammy as fuck.

Instead of an Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro i'd get an Ender 3 V2 or a CR-6 SE since it's an improvement build-wise and makes some pretty expensive upgrades redundant.

first of all, dont be afraid of SLA printers, other than getting the supports right (software mostly does it automatically) and buying a machine with a carbon filter (~$500 for a $400 machine, a liter of resin, tools, and an uv lamp for a curing station box) will get rrid of the harmful fumes and most of the smell.
cheap FDM (ender 3) isn't that good for character models without a lot of work and a 32bit board swap due to ghosting issues, but a teirtime or a prusa/kit printer is a good machine if you also do CAD/Sketchup
>>750329
I made my own printer, dont go for it unless you want to design your own frame parts or plan on modifying a online design. I printed my frame from a local community college, got free filament for assembling some designs they wanted to demo for funding.
I'd recommend a prusa or an ender 5 if you want to print large house models; board swapping an ender 3 is also good.
>>750390
the taz is a workhorse(tm) of a machine and made for printfarms or if you want to get into printing services
>>750399
>>752727
both dubs checked
amazon is required if you plan on buying an ender, the service and return programs are pretty shitty otherwise. dont expect to get a replacement part after the first 1-2 months.
>>750393
I steal models from people like you, to the point of nearly being sued. Just drop an .obj of your file and a nerd will spend 2 hours to not only make your entire model printable for multiple poses, but additionally bake in materials and bump textures. You can't just print a nonmanifold anime figure with flat texture eyes you know, when they ask for an stl they're asking to spend the time to make something printable.
>>752735
Better power supply and extruder setup. a V2 is coming out for 50$ over the pro version, but will come with a full tool kit.
>>753125
>>753133
oh god shut up the ender is a flaming pile of garbage compared to the prusa; The mainboard is garbage and even creality's other machines give so much more value for their price.

>>753239
>Carbon Filter will get rid of the harmful fumes
These filters are a meme, they barely do anything.
Get an airbrush booth exhaust tube, attach it to the printers exhaust fan and just blow the fumes out the window, it's much safer.
I agree with everything else you said.
Can you recommend a good mainboard for my Ender 5?

>>753257
I was recommended by someone who returned their first SLA for a carbon filter'd one, those exhaust tubes would work tho. I'd rec a duet mastero for reprapfirmware, but for an ender 5 (far better than the $75 ender5+ silent board) but for the ~$50 range the SKR+trinamic drivers combo would work. Going lower gets you soldered-in (non trinamic) drivers or none at all for upgrading from MKS boards, the official creality one would be a drop-in replacement but IDK if it allows for a bltouch/IRprobe like the 5+ or SKR/MKS/Duet boards would.

>>753267
ignore the >"but for an ender 5" part, I cut and moved the drop-in 5 board part with caveats after I compared the combo price.
the SKR can also run reprapfirmware for cheap with an esp32 but IDK if it'll stay up to date.

>>750329
>Bought a CR10S in the middle of quarantime
>Extruder doesn't move the plastic filament right, the filament kind of stutters, and at this point I'm not sure if it's too tight or it just doesn't work at all
>Nothing comes out of the nozzle by its own means and I dunno if it's the extruder or a badly calibrated bed
>Work,general lazyness and fear of fucking up more components like I already fucked up the hot end recieving screw have prevented me from trying to figure out what is going on for months
I just wanted to print props and my autistic shit

>>750329
Artillery Sidewinder X1. Printing quality seems as good as Ender or Prusa, and a bigger build plate. Also looks cool as there aren't wires hanging everywhere. Only thing to consider is how durable those flat cables are.

>>753483
Also as it's not Bowden, but direct feed, you can actually print TPU and flexibles.

>>753471
Your Nozzle is probably too small and/or clogged by shit filament.
Sometimes the nozzles are just absolute shit.
Push filament through your hotend by hand to see if anything comes out.
Buy a set of with different diameters, they're like 10 bucks for 20 nozzles.
Also >>752738

>>753488
>Your Nozzle is probably too small and/or clogged by shit filament.
Nah, nozzle is cleaned because I already cleaned it with the method you described of and even when the filament isn't inside it the extruder has trouble even moving the filament at all and stutters as I described. I'll check the general btw thanks

>>753471
Does the extruder gear move smoothly when there's no filament at all? Make sure your nozzle is hot (over 180°) or the extruder doesn't work. You can pull the filament out after some has fed through and check the teeth marks from the extruder, if there's flat spots that means it's grinding and the filament isn't moving freely, if there's barely teeth marks it needs to be tightened up.
It's unlikely you fucked anything up, the extruder is pretty separate from the rest of the bed assembly. Your extruder motor might be fucked but probably not. Post a pic of your extruder setup if you're still having trouble.

>>753239
>and buying a machine with a carbon filter (~$500 for a $400 machine, a liter of resin, tools, and an uv lamp for a curing station box) will get rid of the harmful fumes
No, definitely not.
You need a separate space, an M3 respirator and filter qualified for organic vapours and/or to be outright pumping the fumes out.
The only thing a HEPA filter will do is get rid of the smell.
>oh god shut up the ender is a flaming pile of garbage compared to the prusa
The Ender is $200 dollars. The Prusa is $999.
The Ender is unironically the more stable frame despite being made of chink materials and it comes with screws that actually fit and don't need to be sanded down. A new good mainboard is like $90.
There are much better machines but the Prusa ain't it.

>>753697
I already discussed with another anon on whats required to get rid of fumes when the resin is hot (I was indeed mistaken on the effectiveness of activated carbon). Its stable enough to be left alone without making the whole house get cancer, a fume extractor+gloves is more than enough.

As for the ender frame I wont die on prusa as I use a cube frame printer kit, but playing off the ender as a better machine when it's shitty hotend design fails whenever the shark bite connector loosens up and spews plastic out of the heaterblock, (causing many embarrassing plastic brick photos every couple of threads) is disingenuous.
The issue with the mainboard is creaity locked down features in software (they didn't even have a bootloader on the OG cr10) and simple driver swaps turn into expensive board swaps for their ""premium"" option scheme that waste PCBs just for a 32bit processor as a check mark for the features.
As for price being a "scam" its certainly not worth the price of its parts, but its not a scam to avoid using bargain bin parts that wont explode, instead of selling the meanwell as a "premium" option either. Powder coating all those parts doesn't help with the price as well.

>>753632
>if there's flat spots that means it's grinding and the filament isn't moving freely, if there's barely teeth marks it needs to be tightened up.
This describes it perfectly, it has little marks of the teeth mostly because of the filament feeding process when I try to do it without pressing the piece that separates both gears. The extruder axis doesn't seem to move with the prepare options either so it might be the motor.
As for fucking up not the extruder yet ,but is but like I said I already spoiled one of the screws on the recieving end of the hotend (the one with teflon/rubber) but I already got some replacements.
Can't take pics atm since I'm not at home until next week, by then I'll post a pic or make a post on the general in /dyi/.

Just printed out this funnel in PLA to pour 5l isopropyl alcohol into smaller containers.
HOWEVER. You can see a line where my ender 3 "pro" changes direction to move up to the next layer.

This is an outward bump on both the inside and outside of the funnel which honestly should be just fine. But I got to thinking, shouldn't the slicer stagger the change over point at different points on the part to increase the overall strength?

>>754257
yeh there's a slicer setting that randomizes start points
makes printing ~30% longer for simple prints like that though
configuring linear advance would reduce the bump size too

>>754259
Cheers m8. I was using Cura, but I'll slice my next part in PrusaSlicer. Would be cool if you could define your own way of setting the seam position as opposed to just having it at a random point.

>>750329
All these affordable home printers are a meme. Quality is rough across the board. $10-20k and upwards and you'll see some improvements.
Then again, you faggots print faggy little meme nonsense like Anime figures, so who cares.

>>754276
buddy...
you can do both those things in cura, its "z seam" advanced settings.
for prusaslicer you should be able to get good results with a config profile so you dont have to change back.

>>754305
thats untrue, even in the professional space. polyjet is a fucking meme anon.

>Only having one printer
>Choosing between FDM and SLA
>Not using Freecad and becoming a member of the communist master race

Filthy casuals...

>>754345
Communists get the bullet

>>754378
this, but unironically

>>754345
>Not taking the older 3d printer and convert to dremel CNC.
>buying a new dual extruder or resin
Pleb please

>>754663
>>754345
>not building your own printer out of a glue gun and cd drives
>not using that printer to make a gnu RepRap
>not self improving the reprap with dual extrusion(multitoolhead) and a laser engraver
>not then using that reprap to make a cnc router that then makes the SLA printer

none of you are true comrades, RepRap means self replicating, not "made in china"

>>754673
forgot link https://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Loaner_Program

>>754673
Then show me your self replicated, not made in China motors, circuit boards and metal parts, you idiot.

>>754673
Dumbass. Those CD drives and printers you use are made in fucking China.

>>754673
>not melting down cans and metal found around your neighborhood, to then cast into motor casings.
>not winding the copper you ripped out of that abandoned house.
>not creating your own pcb board using ferric chloride

Do you even RepRap bro?

Bought a Photon
Ain't using gloves or mask, neither ventilation or UV curing box, at least its rpetty sunny where i live
I’m dying in two weeks lmao

Pic related, first print yesterday

>>755099
>Ain't using gloves or mask, neither ventilation or UV curing box
So you paid hundreds of dollars for a machine but you're still so severely retarded that you'd give yourself chronic solvent-induced encephalopathy and painter's lung over a couple of dollars of nitrile gloves and an M3 mask?
>UV curing box
That costs like $10 dollars total for a UV strip.
>i'm dying in two weeks
I fucking wish. You're just going to destroy any semblance of long-term health permanently and have to live with it for the rest of your life.
The fuck's wrong with you.

>>755099
>>755113
You should have a vent out or a N95 mask at the least, people have died from exposure to these chemicals you know, at least follow some of the OSHA regulations.

>>755113
Yes, and?
Lmao

Printfags, add me on telegram: tg://join?invite=At45FRV1Ub0GU68G1ZEOKw

>>758640
oops im retarded and dont know how to paste links:

https://t.me/joinchat/At45FRV1Ub0GU68G1ZEOKw

>>754257
Look for slicer settings that reference the "seam"

I was going to get the anycubic photon to print my own warhammer models because fuck GW. Still unsure if the models will be passable enough to play with tho.

>>760874
My plan was to either buy scan and sell actually models or use photogrammetry to fuck GW in the ass

>>754345
Why the fuck is your photons platform so fucked

How much would a 3d printer that can print 1/72 scale figures at a compatible quality of something like tamiya or revell cost? If its possible